CASS LIBRARY OF AFRICAN STUDIES 



TRAVELS AND NARRATIVES 

No. 25 

Editorial Adviser: JOHN RALPH WILLIS 



AN ACCOUNT OF 

TIMBUCTOO AND HOUSA 



TERRITORIES IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA 

BY 

EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY 

WITH 

NOTES, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY 



BY 

JAMES GREY JACKSON 



FRANK CASS & CO. LTD. 
1967 



Published by 

FRANK CASS AND COMPANY LIMITED 
67 Great Russell Street, London WC1 



First edition 1 820 

New impression 1967 



8 



9508H 

AUG 7 -1967 



Printed in Great Britain by 
Thomas Nelson (Printers) Ltd., London and Edinburgh 



AN ACCOUNT 



OF 

TIMBUCTOO AND HOUSA, 

TERRITORIES IN THE INTERIOR OF 

Africa, 

By EL HAGE ABD SAL AM SHABEENY; 

WITH 

NOTES, CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY. 

TO WHICH IS ADDED, 

LETTERS DESCRIPTIVE OF 

TRAVELS THROUGH WEST AND SOUTH BARBARY, 
AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS OF ATLAS; 

ALSO, 

FRAGMENTS, NOTES, AND ANECDOTES ; 

SPECIMENS OF THE ARABIC EPISTOLARY STYLE, 
&c. &c. 

" VUnivers est une espeee <le livre, dont on n'a la que la premiere page, quand 
on n'a vu que son pays." Le Cosmopolite. 



By JAMES GREY JACKSON, 

RESIDENT UPWARDS OF SIXTEEN YEARS IN SOUTH AND WEST BARBARY, 
IN A DIPLOMATIC AND IN A COMMERCIAL CAPACITY. 



LONDON: 

PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, OHME, AND BROWN, 

TATERNOSTER-ROW. 

1820. 



to 

HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY 

GEORGE THE FOURTH, 

Sfc. fyc. fyc, 

THIS WORK 
is 

WITH PERMISSION, 
RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, 
BY 

HIS MAJESTY'S 
MOST DUTIFUL SUBJECT 

AND SERVANT, 

JAMES GREY JACKSON. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The person who communicated the following 
intelligence respecting Timbuctoo and Housa, 
is a Muselman, and a native of Tetuan, whose 
father and mother are personally known to 
Mr. Lucas, the British Consul. His name is 
Asseed El Hage Abd Salam Shabeeny. His 
account of himself is, that at the age of fourteen 
years he accompanied his father to Timbuctoo, 
from which town, after a residence of three 
years, he proceeded to Housa \ and after residing 
at the latter two years, he returned to Tim- 
buctoo, where he continued seven years, and 
then came back to Tetuan. 

Being now in the twenty-seventh year of his 
age, he proceeded from Tetuan as a pilgrim 
and merchant, with the caravan for Egypt to 
Mecca and Medina, and on his return, esta- 
blished himself as a merchant at Tetuan, his 
native place, from whence he embarked on 
board a vessel bound for Hamburgh, in order to 



VI 



INTRODUCTION. 



purchase linens and other merchandize that were 
requisite for his commerce. 

On his return from Hamburgh in an English 
vessel, he was captured, and carried prisoner to 
Ostend, by a ship manned by Englishmen, but 
under Russian colours, the captain of which 
pretended that his Imperial mistress was at war 
■with all Muselmen. There he was released by 
the good offices of the British consul, Sir John 
Peters *, and embarked once more in the same 
vessel, which, by the same mediation, was also 
released ; but as the captain either was or pre- 
tended to be afraid of a second capture, El 
Hage Abd Salam was sent ashore at Dover, and 
is now h , by the orders of government, to take 
his passage on board a king's ship that will sail 
in a few days. 

In the following communications, Mr. Beau- 
foy proposed the questions, and Mr. Lucas was 
the interpreter. 

Shabeeny was two years on his journey from 
Tetuan to Mekka, before he returned to Fas. 
He made some profit on his merchandise, which 
consisted of haiks c , red caps, and slippers, 

a Confirmed by Sir John Peters. 
b In the year 1795. 

c The haiks are light cotton, woollen, or silk garments, 
about five feet wide and four yards long, manufactured at Fas, 
as are also the red caps which are generally made of the finest 
Tedla wool, which is equal to the Spanish, and is the pro- 
duce of the province of that name, (for the situation of which 
see the map of the empire of Marocco, facing page 55.) 



INTRODUCTION. 



vii 



cochineal and saffron ; the returns were, fine 
Indian muslins d for turbans, raw silk, musk, 
and gebalia*, a fine perfume that resembles 
black paste. 

He made a great profit by his traffic at Tim- 
buctoo and Housa ; but, he says, money gained 
among the Negroes f has not the blessing of 
God on it, but vanishes away without benefit 
to the owner; but, acquired in a journey to 
Mecca, proves fortunate, and becomes a per- 
manent acquisition. 

On his return with his father from Mecca, 
they settled at Tetuan, and often carried cattle, 
poultry, &c. to Gibraltar ; his father passed the 
last fifteen years of his life at Gibraltar, and 
died there about the year 1793. He was born 
at Mequinas ; his family is descended from the 
tribe of Shabban 5 , which possesses the country 



The slippers are also manufactured from leather made from 
goat-skins, at Fas and at Mequinas.- The cochineal is im- 
ported from Spain, although the opuntia, or the tree that 
nourishes the cochineal-fly, abounds in many of the pro- 
vinces of West Barbary, particularly in the province of Suse. 
The saffron abounds in the Atlas mountains in Lower Suse, 
and is used in most articles of food by the Muhamedans. 
d Muls. 

e Gebalia resembles frankincense, or Gum Benjamin, and 
is used for fumigations by the Africans. 
f Being idolaters. 

8 Shaban is (probably) a tribe of the Howara Arabs, who 
possess the beautiful plains and fine country situated between 
the city of Terodant and the port of Santa Cruz. There is an 
emigration of the MografFra Arabs, who are in possession of 



Vlll 



INTRODUCTION. 



between Santa Cruz and Wedinoon. They were 
entitled to the office of pitching the Emperor's 
tent, and attending his person. They can raise 
40,000 men, and they were the first who ac- 
companied Muley Hamed Dehebby h in his 
march to Timbuctoo. 

He considers himself now as settled at 
Tetuan, where he has a wife and children. 
He left it about twelve months ago, with three 
friends, to go to Hamburg (as before men- 
tioned.) They were confined forty-seven days 
at Ostend, were taken the second day of their 
voyage ; the English captain put them ashore 
at Dover against their inclination, and pro- 
ceeded to Gibraltar with their goods : this was 
in December, 1789. 



the country between Terodant and the port of Messa. The 
encampments of an emigration of the Woled Abusebah 
(vulgarly called, in the maps, Labdessebas) Arabs of Sahara, 
occupy a considerable district between Tomie, on the coast, 
and Terodant. The coast from Messa to Wedinoon is occu- 
pied by a trading race of Arabs and Shelluhs, who have inter- 
married, called Ait Bamaran. These people are very 
anxious to have a port opened in their country, and some 
sheiks among them have assured me, that there is a peninsula 
on their coast conveniently situated for a port. This cir^ 
cumstance is 'well deserving the attention of the maritime and 
commercial nations of the uoorld. 

h The youngest son of the Emperor Muley Ismael con- 
ducted the expedition here alluded to, about the year of 
Christ 1727. For an account of which see the Appendix, 
page 523. 



INTRODUCTION. 



ix 



THE CONTINENT. 

The continent of Africa, the discovery of 
which has baffled the enterprise of Europe, (un- 
like every other part of the habitable world,) 
still remains, as it were, a sealed book, at least, 
if the book has been opened, we have scarcely 
got beyond the title-page. 

Great merit is due to the enterprise of tra- 
vellers. The good intention of the African 
Association, in promoting scientific researches 
in this continent, cannot (by the liberal) be 
doubted. But something more than this is 
necessary to embark successfully in this gigantic 
undertaking. I never thought that the system 
of solitary travellers would produce any bene- 
ficial result. The plan of the expedition of 
Major Peddie and Captain Tuckie was still 
more objectionable than the solitary plan, and 
I have reason to think, that no man possessing 
any personal knowledge of Africa, ever enter- 
tained hopes of the success of those expeditions. 
Twenty years ago I declared it as my decided 
opinion, that the only way to obtain a know- 
ledge of this interesting continent, is through 
the medium of commercial intercourse. The 
more our experience of the successive failure of 
our African expeditions advances, the more 
strongly am I confirmed in this opinion. If 
we are to succeed in this great enterprise, we 
must step out of the beaten path — the road of 
error, that leads to disappointment — the road 



X 



INTRODUCTION. 



that has been so fatal to all our ill-concerted 
enterprises ; we must shake off the rust of pre- 
cedent, and strike into a new path altogether. 

Do we not lack that spirit of union so expe- 
dient and necessary to all great enterprises? 
Is not the public good sacrificed to self-ag- 
grandisement and individual interest. — Let 
the African Institution unite its funds to 
those of the African Association, and co-operate 
with the efforts of that society ! Let the 
African Company also throw in their share of 
intelligence. The separated and sometimes dis- 
cordant interests of all these societies, if united, 
might effect much. The united efforts of such 
societies would do more in a year towards the 
civilization of Africa, and the abolition of slavery, 
than they will do in ten, unconnected as they 
now are. Concordia parta res crescunt — When 
each looks to particular interests, we cannot 
expect the result to be the general good. 

It is probable that the magnificent enterprises 
of the Portuguese and Spaniards, would, ere 
this, have colonised and converted to Chris- 
tianity, all the eligible spots of idolatrous Africa, 
if their attention to this grand object had not 
been diverted by the discovery of America, and 
their establishments in Brazil, Mexico, &c. 

I was established upwards of sixteen years in 
West and South Barbary ; territories that main- 
tain an uninterrupted intercourse with all those 
countries that Major Houghton, Hornemann, 
Park, Rontgen, Burckhardt, Ritchie, and others 



INTRODUCTION. 



xi 



have attempted to explore. I was diplomatic 
agent to several maritime nations of Europe, 
which familiarised me with all ranks of society 
in those countries. I had a perfect knowledge 
of the commercial and travelling language of 
Africa, (the Arabic.) I corresponded myself 
with the Emperors, Princes, and Bashaws in this 
language ; my commercial connections were very 
extensive, amongst all the most respectable mer- 
chants who traded with Timbuctoo and other 
countries of Sudan. My residence at Agadeer, 
or Santa Cruz, in Suse, afforded me eligible op- 
portunities of procuring information respecting 
the trade with Sudan, and the interior of Africa. 
A long residence in the country, and extensive 
connections, enabled me to discriminate, and to 
ascertain who were competent and who were 
not competent to give me the information I 
required. I had opportunities at my leisure of 
investigating the motives that any might have 
to deceive me ; I had time and leisure also to 
investigate their moral character, and to ascer- 
tain the principles that regulated their respective 
conduct. Possessed of all these sources of in- 
formation, how could I fail of procuring correct 
and authentic intelligence of the interior of 
Africa ; yet my account of the two Niles has 
been doubted by our fire-side critics, and the 
desultory intelligence of other travellers, who cer- 
tainly did not possess those opportunities of pro- 
curing information that I did, has been substi- 
tuted : but, notwithstanding this unaccountable 



Xll 



INTRODUCTION. 



scepticism, my uncredited account of the con- 
nection of the two Niles of Africa, continues 
daily to receive additional confirmation from all 
the African travellers themselves. And thus, 
Time, (to use the words of a 1 learned and most 
intelligent writer), " which is more obscure in 
its course than the Nile, and in its termination 
than the Niger," is disclosing all these things: 
so that I now begin to think that the before- 
mentioned critics will not be able much longer 
to maintain their theoretical hypothesis. k 

The talents, the extraordinary prudence and 
forbearance, the knowledge of the Arabic lan- 
guage, and other essential qualifications in an 
African traveller, which the ever-to-be-lamented 
Burckhardt so eminently possessed, gave me the 
greatest hopes of his success in his arduous 
enterprise, until I discovered, when reading 
hisTravels, that he was poor and despised, though 
a Muselman. 

There is too much reason to apprehend that he 
w r as suspected, if not discovered by the Musel- 
men, or he would not have been secluded from 
their meals and society : the Muselmen never 
(sherik taam) eat or divide food with those they 
suspect of deception, nor do they ever refuse to 
partake of food with a Muselman, unless they do 
suspect him of treachery or deception; this 
principle prevails so universally among them, that 

■ Vide the Rev. C. C. Colton's Lacon, sect. 587. p. 260, 
<26t. 

k Sou various letters on Africa, in this vvork. p, 443. 



INTRODUCTION. 



xui 



artful and designing people have practised as 
many deceptions on the Bedouin under the cloak 
of hospitality, as are practised in Christian 
countries under the cloak of religion ! I cannot 
but suspect, therefore, from the circumstance 
before recited, that the Muselmism of Burck- 
hardt was seriously suspected, and that his com- 
panions only waited a convenient opportunity 
in the Sahara for executing their revenge on him 
for the deception. 

The very favourable reception that my ac- 
count of Marocco met with from the British 
public ; the many things therein stated, which 
are daily gaining confirmation, although they 
were doubted at the period of their publication, 
have contributed in no small degree, to the pro- 
duction of the following sheets, in which I can 
conscientiously declare, that truth has been my 
guide ; I have never sacrificed it to ambition, 
vanity, avarice, or any other passion. 

The learned, I am flattered to see, are now 
beginning to adopt my orthography of African 
names ; they have lately adopted Timbuctoo for 
the old and barbarous orthography of Tombuctoo; 
they have, however, been upwards of ten years 
about it. In ten years more, I anticipate that 
Fez will be changed into Fas, and Morocco into 
Marocco, for this plain and uncontrovertible 
reason, — because they are so spelled in the 
original language of the countries, of which 
they are the chief cities. Since the publica- 
tion of my account of Marocco, I have seen 



xiv 



INTRODUCTION. 



Arabic words spelled various ways by the 
same author (I have committed the same error 
myself) ; but in the following work I have 
adopted a plan to correct this prevailing error 
in Oriental orthography, which, I think, ought 
to be followed by every Oriental scholar, as the 
only correct way of transcribing them in English j 
viz. by writing them exactly according to the 
original Arabic orthography, substituting gr (not 
gk, as Richardson directs) for the Arabic guttural 
^ grain, and kh for the guttural k or ^. — 

Note, We should be careful not to copy the 
orthography of Oriental or African names from 
the French, which has too often been done, al- 
though their pronunciation of European letters 
is very dissimilar from our own. 



CONTENTS. 



An Account of a Journey from Fas to Timbuctoo, per- 
formed about the year 1787? by El Hage Abd Salam 
Shabeeny, - - Page 1 

Route to Timbuctoo. — Situation of the Cit}\ — 
Population* — Inns or Caravanseras, called Fondaks. — 
Houses. — Government. — Revenue. — Army. — Ad- 
ministration of Justice. — Succession to Property.-— 
Marriage. — Trade. — Manufactures. — Husbandry. — 
Provisions. — Animals. — Birds. — Fish, — Prices of 
different Articles. — Dress. — Time. — Religion. — 
Diseases. — Manners and Customs. — Neighbouring 
Nations. 

Journey from Timbuctoo to Housa - - - 37 

The River Neel or Nile. — Housa. — Government. 

— Administration of Justice. — Landed Property. — 
Revenues. — Army. — Trade. — Climate. — Zoology. — 
Diseases. — Religion. — Persons. — Dress. — Buildings. 

— Manners. — Gold. — Limits of the Empire. 

Letters, containing an Account of Joumies through various 
Parts of West and South Barbary, at different Periods, 
personally •performed by J. G. Jackson - 55 

Letter I. (To James Willis, Esq., late British Consul 
for Senegambia.) On theOpening of the Port of Agadeer, 
or SantaCruz, in the Province of Suse ; and of its Cession 
by the Emperor Muley Yezzid to the Dutch ibid. 



xvi 



CONTENTS. 



Letter II. (To the same.) The Author's Arrival at 
Agadeer or Santa Cruz He opens the Port to Eu- 
ropean Commerce. — His favourable Reception on 

landing there Is saluted by the Battery.— Abolishes 

the degrading Custom that had been exacted of the 
Christians, of descending from on Horseback, and en- 
tering the Town on Foot, like the Jews. — Of a Sanc- 
tuary at the Entrance of the Town, which had ever 
been considered Holy Ground, and none but Muha- 
medans had ever before been permitted to enter the 
Gates on Horseback ... Page 58 

Letter III. (To the same.) The Author makes a 
Commercial Road down the Mountain, to facilitate the 
Shipment of Goods. — The Energy and Liberality of 
the Natives, in working gratuitously at it. — Descrip- 
tion of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie. — Arab Repast 
there. — Natural Strength of Santa Cruz, of the Town 
of Agurem, and the Portuguese Spring and Tank 
there. — Attempt of the Danes to land and build a Fort. 
— Eligibility of the Situation of Santa Cruz, for a 
Commercial Depot to supply the whole of the Interior 
of North Africa with East India and European Manu- 
factures. — Propensity of the Natives to Commerce and 
Industry, if Opportunity offered. 62 

Letter IV. (To the same.) Command of the Com- 
merce of Sudan. - - - 67 

Letter V. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 69 

Letter VI. From the same to the same - 71 

Letter VII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Emperor's 
March to Marocco. — Doubles the Customs' Duties 
of Mogodor. — The Governor, Prince Abdelmelk, 
with the Garrison and Merchants of Santa Cruz, or- 
dered to go to the Court at Marocco. — They cross 
the Atlas Mountains. — Description of the Country 
and Produce. — Dangerous Defile in the Mountains 
through which the Author passed. — Chasm in the 
Mountain. — Security of Suae from Marocco, origi- 



CONTENTS. 



XVII 



ating in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas. 

— Extensive Plantations of Olives. — Village of Ait 
Musie. — Fruga Plains. — Marocco Plains. — Fine 
Corn. — Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the 
Emperor. — Imperial Gardens at Marocco. — Prince 
Abdelmelk's magnificent Apparel reprobated by the 
Sultan. — The Port of Santa Cruz shut to the Com- 
merce of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Ma- 
rocco. — The Prince banished to the Bled Shereef, or 
Country of Princes ; viz. Tafilelt, of the Palace at 
Tafilelt. — Abundance of Dates.— Face of the Country. 

— Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees. — Faith 
and Integrity of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt. — Imperial 
Gardens at Marocco. — Mode of Irrigation. ■ — Attar of 
Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses (Attar being the 
Word signifying a Distillation.). — - State of Oister Shells 
on the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between 
Mogodor and Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas* 

— Description of the Author's Reception on the Road 
from Marocco to Mogodor* — Of the Elgrored, or 
Sahara of Mogodor - Page 73 

Letter VIIL From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 84? 

Extract of a Letter from His Excellency J. M. 
Matfa, British Envoy to Marocco, &c. to Mr. Jack- 
son - - - - 85 

Lettee IX. (To James Willis, Esq.) Custom of 
visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco. — 
Journey of the Merchants thither on that Occasion. — 
No one enters the Imperial Presence without a Present. 

— Mode of travelling. *~ The Commercio. — Imperial 

Gardens at Marocco Audience of the Sultan. — 

Amusements at Marocco. — Visit to the Town of 
Lepers, — Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers. 

— Ophthalmia at Marocco, — Its probable Cause. — 
Immense Height of the Atlas, East and South of Ma- 
rocco. — Mode of visiting at Marocco. — Mode of 
Eating. — Trades or Handicrafts at Marocco. — Au- 



xviii 



CONTENTS. 



dience of Business of the Sultan. — Present received 
from the Sultan - Pagt 86 

Letter X. From Mr. Willis to Mr. Jackson 99 
Letter XI. From the same to the same - 101 
Letter XII. From the same to the same - 103 
Letter XIII. (To James Willis, Esq.) Journey from 
Mogodor to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanctuary of 
Muley Dris Zerone in the Atlas Mountains, to the 
Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite 
Country to L'Araich and Tangier. — Started from 
Mogodor with Bel Hage as (Tabuk) Cook, and Deeb 
as (Mule LuJclcerzana) Tent-Master. — Exportation of 
Wool granted by the Emperor. — Akkermute depo- 
pulated by the Plague. — Arabs, their Mode of hunting 
the Partridge. — Observations respecting the River 
Tansift. — Jerf El Eudie, or the Jews' Pass. — De- 
scription of SafFy, and its Port or Road. — Woladia 
calculated to make a safe harbour. — Growth of To- 
bacco. — Mazagan described. — Azamor the Abode of 
Storks. — Saneet Urtemma a dangerous Country. — Dar 
El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described. — * Mausoleum 
of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat — Of 
Sheila, a Roman Town. — Of the Tower of Hassan. -— 
Road of Rabat. — Productive Country about Rabat. — 
Salee. — The People inimical to Christians. — The 

Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves Ait 

Zimurh, notorious Thieves. — Their Mode of Robbing. 
— Their Country disturbed with Lions. — Arrival at 
Mequinas. — Some Account of that City and its Imperial 
Palace. — Ladies of Mequinas extremely beautiful. — 
Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley Dris orldris 
Zerone. — Extraordinary and favourable Reception 
there by the Fakeers of the Sanctuary. — Slept in the 
Adytum. — Succour expected from the English in the 
Event of an Invasion by Bonaparte. — Prostration and 
Prayer of Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure 
from the Sanctuary. — Ruins of Pharaoh near the 
Sanctuary. — Treasures found there. — Ite Amor. — 



CONTENTS. 



xix 



The Descendants of the Ancient Amorites. — Character 
of these People. — Various Tribes of the Berebbers of 
Atlas. — El Kassar Kabeer. ■— - Its Environs, a beautiful 
Country. — Forest Of L'Araich. — Superior Manu- 
facture of Gold Thread made at Fas, as well as Imi- 
tations of Amber. — Grand Entry of the British Am- 
bassador into Tangier. — Our Ignorance of African 
Matters. — The Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces 
of his Empire to the various Kingdoms of Europe 

Page 105 

Letter XIV. (From His Excellency James M. 
Matra to Mr. Jackson.) Respecting the Result of the 
British Embassy to the Emperor of Marocco at Old 
Fas 128 

Letter XV. (To James Willis, Esq.) European 
Society at Tangier. — Sects and Divisions among 
Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts the 
Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt upon 
Christians themselves. — The Cause of it. — The Con- 
version of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation 
of the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians 
themselves - - - - - 129 

Letter XVI. (To the same.) Diary of a Journey 
from Tangier to Mogodor, showing the Distances from 
Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic Ocean ; 
useful to Persons travelling in that Country - 132 

Letter XVII. (To the same.) An Account of a 
Journey from Mogodor to SafFy, during a Civil War, 
in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier could not pass, 
owing to the Warfare between the two Provinces of 
Haha and Shedma — -Stratagem adopted by the Authoi 
to prevent Detection. — Danger of being discovered. 
— Satisfaction expressed by the Bashaw of Abda, 
Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe Arrival, 
and Compliments received from him on his having ac- 
complished this perilous Journey - - 134 

Letter XVIII. (To the same.) Journey to the 



XX 



CONTENTS. 



Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy in Shtuka 

— Encamped in his Garden. — Mode of living in 
Shtuka. — Audience of the Prince. — Expedition to 
the Port of Tomie, in Suse* — Country infested with 
Rats. — Situation of Tomie. — Entertainment at a 
Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah. — Exertions 
of Delemy to entertain his guests. — Arabian Dance 
and Music. — Manner and Style of Dancing. — Eulo- 
gium of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies. — 
Manners of the latter. — Their personal Beauty. — 
Dress. — Desire of the Arabs to have a Commercial 
Establishment in their Country. — Report to the Prince 
respecting Tomie. — Its Contiguity to the Place of the 
Growth of various Articles of Commerce. — Viceroy's 
Offer to build a House, and the Duties. — Visit 
to Messa. — Nature of the Country. — Gold and Silver 
Mines. — Garden of Delemy. — Immense Water-melons 
and Grapes. — Mode of Irrigation. — Extraordinary 
People from Sudan at Delemy 's. — Elegant Sword. — 
Extensive Plantations. — The Prince prepares to depart 
for Tafilelt - Page 137 

Letter XIX. (To the same.) Journey from Santa 
Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers ventured to pass, 
owing to Civil War and Contention among the Kabyles. 
■ — Moorish Philanthropy in digging Wells for the Use 
of Travellers. — Travelled with a trusty Guide without 
Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or Incumbrances. — Nature 
of the Warfare in the Land. — Bitter Effects of Revenge 
and Retaliation on the happiness of Society. — Origin 
of these civil Wars between the Families and Kabyles. 

— Presented with Honey and Butter for Breakfast. — 
Patriarchal Manner of living among the Shelluhs com- 
pared to that of Abraham. — Aromatic Honey. — 
Ceremony at Meals, and Mode of Eating — Travelled 
all Night, and slept in the open Air ; — Method of 
avoiding the Night-dew, as practised by the Natives. — 
Arrival at Mogodor - - - - - 150 



CONTENTS. 



XX! 



An Account of the Rise, Progress, and Decrease of the 
Plague that ravaged West and South Barbary, in 1 799, 
faithfully extracted from Letters written before and 
during its Existence, by the House of James Jackso?i $ 
Co., or by James G. Jackson, at Mogodor, to their 
Correspondents in Europe - - Page 156 

Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to Mr. 
Jackson ----- 153 

An Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which 
depopulated West and South Barbary in 1799 and 1800, 
to the Effects of which the Author was an eye-witness 

166 

Cases of Plague - - 180 

Observations respecting the Tlague that prevailed 
last Year in West Barbary, which was imported from 
Egypt ; communicated by the Author to the Editor 
of the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and 
the Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great 
Britain, No. 15, published October, 1819 186 

Journey from Tangier to Rabat, through the Plains of 
Seboo, in Company with Doctor Bell and the Prince 
Muley Teib and an Army of Cavalry - 191 

Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and Dr. 
Bell. — Description of Food sent to us by the Prince. 

— The Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah, an incom- 
parably fine and productive Country. — The Cavalry of 
the Amorites ; — their unique Observations on Dr. 
Bell : their mean opinion of his Art, because he could 
not cure Death. — Passage of the River Seboo on Rafts 
of inflated Skins. — Spacious tent of Goat's Hair 
erected for the Sheik, and appropriated to the Use of 
the Prince. — Description of the magnificent Plains of 
M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo Arabian Royalty, 

— Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these Plains. 

— Matamores, what they are. — Mode of Reaping. — . 



XXII 



CONTENTS. 



The Prince presents the Doctor wtih a Horse, and 
approves of his Medicines. — The Prince and the Doctor 
depart south-eastwardly, and the Author pursues his 
Journey to Rabat and Mogodor - Page 191 

Of the excavated Residences of the Inhabitants of Atlas : 
the Acephali, Hel Shoual, and Hel el Killeb - 198 

The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the 
present Sytem of solitary Travellers ; but by a grand 
Plan, with a numerous Company ; beginning with Com- 
merce, as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the Fore- 
runner of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indis- 
pensable to the Conversion of the native Negroes to 
Christianity. 

Cautions to be used in Travelling - 202 
Danger of Travelling after Sun-set. — The Emperor 
holds himself accountable for Thefts committed on 
Travellers, whilst travelling between the Fising and the 
setting Sun. — Emigration of Arabs. — Patriarchal 
Style of Living among the Arabs ; Food, Clothing, 
domestic Looms, and Manufactures. — Riches of the 
Arabs calculated by the Number of Camels they pos- 
sess. — Arabian Women are good Figures, and have 
personal Beauty ; delicate in their Food ; poetical 
Geniuses ; Dancing and Amusements ; Musical Instru- 
ments ; their Manners are courteous. 

Abundance of Corn produced in West Barbary - 20& 

Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor. — 
Bashaw of Duquella's Weekly Present of a Bar of 
Gold. — Mitferes or Subterranneous Depositaries for 
Corn. 

Domestic Serpents of Marocco - - - 213 

Manufactures of Fas - - - - 214» 
Superior Manufactory of Gold Thread. — Imitation 
of precious Stones. — Manufactory of Gun-barrels in 
Suse. — Silver-mine. 



CONTENTS. 



xxiii 



On the State of Slavery in Mukamedan Africa Page 219 

The Plague of Locusts - - - - 221 

Their incredible Destruction. — Used as Food. — 
Remarkable Instance of their destroying every Green 
Herb on one Side of a River, and not on the other. 

On the Influence of the great Principle of Christianity on 
the Moors 224- 

Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa. — 
Causes that prevent it. — The Mode of promoting it is 
through a friendly and commercial Intercourse with the 
Natives. — Exhortation to Great Britain to attend to 
the Intercourse with Africa. — Danger of the French 
colonizing Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby 
depreciating the Value of our West-India Islands. 

Intei' est of Money 237 

Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital. 

Plan for the gradual Civilisation of Africa - 247 

On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through 
the Sahara and Ashantee. 

Prospectus of a Plan for forming a North African or 
Sudan Company : to be instituted far the Purpose of 
establishing an extensive Commerce with, and laying 
open to British Enterprise, all the Interior Regions of 
North Africa 251 

Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an 
Epitome of the Trade carried on by Great Britain and 
the European States in the Mediterranean, indirectly 
with Tirabuctoo, the Commercial Depot of North Africa, 
and with other States of Sudan - 254 

Letter from Vasco de Gama, in Elucidation of this 
Plan - - - - 258 



xxiv 



CONTENTS, 



Letter on the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, in 
further Elucidation of this Plan - - Page 264 

Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa - 266 

Architecture of the Mosques. - — Funeral Ceremonies of 
the Moors. — Gardens at Fas - - 271 

Fragments, Notes, and Anecdotes, illustrating the Nature 
and Character of the Country - - 276 

Introduction. — Trade with Sudan. — Wrecked 
Ships on the Coast, 278. — Wrecked Sailors. — Tim- 
buctoo Coffee* — Sand Baths. — Civil War common in 
West Barbary, 279. — Policy of the Servants of the 
Emperor. — El Wah El Grarbee, or the Western 
Oasis, 280. — ■ Prostration, the Etiquette of the Court 
of Marocco, 281 - — Massacre of the Jews, and Attack 
on Algiers. — Treaties with Muhamedan Princes, 283. — 
Berebbers of Zimurh Snellen. — The European Mer- 
chants at Mogodor escape from Decapitation, 284. — The 
Body of the Emperor Muley Yezzid disinterred, 286- 
Shelluhs ; their Revenge and Retaliation, 291. — Tra- 
velling in Barbary. — Anecdote displaying the African 
Character, and showing them to be now what they 
were anciently, under Jugurtha, 293. — Every Nation 
is required to use its own Costume, 296. — Ali Bey (El 
Abassi), Author of the Travels under that Name, 297. 
— The Emperor's Attack on Dimenet, in the Atlas, 
305. — Moral Justice, 306. — Contest between the 
Emperor and the Berebbers of Atlas. — Characteristic 
Trait of Muhamedans, 308. — Political Deception, 309. 
- — Etiquette of the Court of Marocco, 310. — Customs 
of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas. — Connubial 
Customs, 313. *- Political Duplicity, 314. — Etiquette 
of Language at the Court of Marocco, 315. — Food, 
viz. Kuscasoe, Hassua, El Hasseeda, 31 7» — The Woled 
Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, banished from the 
Plains of Marocco, 317. — The Koran called the Be- 
loved Book. — Arabian Music, 318. — Sigilmessa. — 



CONTENTS. 



XXV 



Mungo Park at Timbuctoo. — Troglodytae, 319. — 
Police of West Barbary, 320. — Muley Abdrahaman ben 
Muhamed, an Anecdote of, 322. — Anecdote of Muley 
Ismael, 323. — Library at Fas, 324. — Deism, 325. — 

Muhamedan Loyalty — Cairo, 326 Races of Men 

constituting the Inhabitants of West and South Bar- 
bary, and that part of Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt 
and Sejin Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the ter- 
ritories of the present Emperor of Marocco : the 
Moors — the Berebbers — the Shelluhs, 327. — The 
Arabs — the Jews — Douars, 328. — Various Modes 
of Intoxication, 329. — Division of Agricultural 
Property, 331. — Mines. — Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, 
or Night-blindness, called by the Arabs Butelleese ; 
and its Remedy, 332. — Vaccination, 336. — Game, 
338. — Agriculture. — Mitferes, 339. — Laws of Hos- 
pitality, 34-0. — Punishment for Murder. — Insolvency 
Laws, 343. — Dances, 344. — Circumcision. — Invoice 
from limbuctoo to Santa Cruz, 345. — Translation of 
a Letter from Timbuctoo, 346. — Invoice from Tim- 
buctoo to Fas, 347. — Translation of its accompanying 
Letter from Timbuctoo, 348. — Food of the Desert. — 
Antithesis, a favourite Figure with the Arabs, 349. — 
Arabian Modes of Writing, 350. — Decay of Science 
and of Arts among the Arabs, 352. — Extraordinary 
Abstinence experienced in the Sahara, 353. 

Languages of Africa - P a S e 355 

Various Dialects of the Arabic Language. — Dif- 
ference between the Berebber and Shelluh Languages. 
— Specimen of the Mandinga Language. — Compa- 
rison of the Shelluh Language with that of the Wah el 
Grarbie, or Oasis of Ammon, and with the original 
Language of the Canary Islands, and similitude of 
Customs. 

Titles of the Emperor of Marocco - - 382 
Style of addressing him - - 383 



xxvi 



CONTENTS. 



Specimens of Muhamedan Epistolatory Correspondence 

Page 384 

Letter I. Translation of a Letter from Muley Is- 
mael, Emperor of Marocco, to Captain Kirke, at Tan- 
gier, Ambassador from King Charles the Second, A. D. 
1684 ..... ibid. 

Letter II. From the same to Sir Cloudesley Shovel, 
on board the Charles Galley, off Sallee, A. D. 1684 

387 

Letter III. Captain Shovel's Answer, September 
1684 - - - - 389 

Letter IV. Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor 
of Marocco's Letter to Queen Anne, A. D. 1710, from 
the Harl. MSS. 7525 392 

Letter V. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan 
Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, 
to the European Consuls resident at Tangier, delivered 
to each of them by the Bashaw of the Province of El 
Grarb, A. D. 1788 - - - 394 

Letter VI. From Muley Soliman ben Muhamed, 
Emperor of Marocco, &c. &c. to His Majesty George 
the Third, literally translated by J. G. Jackson, at 
the Request of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, 
after lying in the Secretary of State's Office here for 
several Months, and being sent ineffectually to the 
Universities, and after various Enquiries had been made 
on Behalf of the Emperor to the Governor of Gibraltar, 
the Bashaw of El Grarb, and the Alkaid of Tangier, to 
ascertain rf any Answer had been returned to His Im- 
perial Majesty ... - 395 

Letter VII. Translation of a Firman of Departure, 
literally translated from the original Arabic, by J. G. 
Jackson ..... 398 

Letter VIII. From Hulaku the Tartar, Conqueror 
of the East, to Al Malek Annasar, Sultan of Aleppo, 
A. D. 1259 - ... 399 



CONTENTS. 



XXVlt 



Letter IX. Translation of a Letter from the Em- 
peror Muley Yezzid, to Webster Blount, Esq. Consul 
General to the Empire of Marocco, from their High 
Mightinesses, the States General of the Seven United 
Provinces, written soon after the Emperor's Proclama- 
tion, and previous to the Negociation for the opening of 
the Port of Agadeer or Santa Cruz to Dutch Com- 
merce - Page 402 

Letter X. Translation of a Letter from the Em- 
peror Yezzid to the Governor of Mogodor, Aumer ben 
Daudy, to give the Port of Agadeer to the Dutch, and 
to send there the Merchants of that Nation - 402 

Letter XI. Epistolary Diction used by the Muha- 
medans of Africa in their Correspondence with all their 
Friends who are not of the Muhamedan Faith, A. D. 
1797 ... 404 

Letter XII. Translation of a Letter from the Sultan 
Seedi Muhamed, Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor 
of Mogodor, A. D. 1791, A. H. 1203 - 405 

Doubts having been made, in the Daily Papers, concern- 
ing the Accuracy of the two following Translations of the 
Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's Death, the 
following Observations by the Author are laid before 
the Public, in Elucidation of those Translations 406 

The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's 
Death (The Author's Translation) - - 409 

Observation - - - - 410 

Extract from the Times, May 3, 1819. — Mungo 
Park .... - 412 

The Shereef Ibrahim's Account of Mungo Park's 
Death (Mr. Abraham Saleme's Translation) - 413 

Letter to the Editor of the British Statesman, on the 
Errors in Mr. Saleme's Translation of the Shereef Ibra- 
him's Account of the Death of Mungo Park - 415 



xxviii 



CONTENTS. 



Letters respecting Africa, from J. G. Jackson and others 

Page 419 

On the Plague. To James Willis, Esq. late Consul 
to Senegambia - - - 419 

Death of Munga Park - - 424 

Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the 
Interior of Africa - - - 325 

Of the Venomous Spider. — Charmers of Serpents. 
— Disease called Nyctalopia, or Night-blindness. — 
Remedy for Consumption in Africa. — Western Branch 
of the Nile, and Water Communication between Tim- 
buctoo and Egypt ... 429 

Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia 
or Night-blindness, in a Letter addressed to the Editor 
of the Literary Panorama - - 432 

Letter to the same ... 433 

Critical Observations on Extracts from the Travels 
of Ali Bey and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal 
of Literature, Science, and the Arts, edited at the 
Royal Institution of Great Britain. Vol. I. No. 2, 
p. 264 - - - - - 435 

On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile 
of Timbuctoo, or of Sudan - 443 

Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and 
Confirmation of Jackson's Account of Sudan, annexed 
to his Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c. - 446 

Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names 
(by Catherine Hutton) - 455 

Hints for the Civilization of Barbary, and Diffusion 
of Commerce, by Vasco de Gama - - 457 

Plan for the Conquest of Algiers, by Vasco de Gama 

461 



CONTENTS. 



xxix 



Letter from El Hage Hamed El Wangary, respecting 
a Review of Ali Bey's Travels, in the " Portfolio,'' an 
American Periodical Work - - Page 464 

On the Negroes (by Vasco de Gama) - 465 

Cursory Observations on Lieutenant Colonel Fitz- 
clarence's Journal of a Route across India, through 
Egypt, to England - - 467 

On the Arabic Language, as now spoken in Europe, 
Asia, and Africa - - - 471 

Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, 
inserted in an Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. 
Edward Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors that have 
been committed by European travellers on that Conti- 
tinent, from their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, 
the learned and the general travelling Language of that 
interesting Part of the World - - 474 

Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa 

493 

The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the 
sworne Esquires of Queen Elizabeth, from Her High- 
nesse, to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Marocco, 
and King of Fez and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. Written 
byHimselfe ... 494, 

Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. 
F. R. S. L. and E. - - 505 

Observations on an Historical Account of Disco- 
veries and Travels in Africa, by the late John Leyden, 
M. D. by Hugh Murray, Esq. F. R. S. E. 50S 

Cursory Observations on African Names - 509 

Letter to the Author from Hugh Murray, Esq. 
F. R. S. E. - - - - 5V3 

On the Two Niles of Africa, or the Niger and the 
Nile 514 



XXX 



CONTENTS. 



APPENDIX. 

Historical Fragments in Elucidation of the foregoing 
Pages - Page 519 

First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo. — Tim- 
buctoo and Guago captured by Muley Hamed (Son of 
Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk, or 
Muley Moluck) in the Sixteenth Century (about the 
Year 1580) 519 

A Library of 3000 Arabic Manuscripts taken by the 
Spaniards. — Contests among Christians reprimanded 

520 

Muley El Arsheed (a Second Expedition to Tim- 
buctoo and Sudan) - - - 521 

Third Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan - 523 



DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 



Map of the Tracks across the Sahara to Timbuctoo, 

to face p. 1 

Map of the Empire of Marocco * - - - 55 



ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY 

FROM 

FAS TO TIMBUCTOO, 

PERFORMED IN OR ABOUT THE YEAR 1787, A. C. 

BY 

EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY. 



The Moors always prefer the spring and summer 
for travelling, because they suffer very much 
from the severe cold of the mornings in winter. 
They generally leave Fas in the beginning of 
April to proceed to Timbuctoo, and they leave 
Timbuctoo to return to Fas in the month of 
January. 

The Mecca caravan takes its departure from 
Fas the beginning of March. 

In travelling, the Moors hire their camels 
from stage to stage. Shabeeny's first stage was 
from Fas a to Tafilelt, which is generally per- 
formed in about twenty days. 

* This is a journey of crooked and rugged roads across 
the Atlas mountains, where they often sojourn in spots 
which invite the traveller, so that it takes a longer time to 
perform it than the distance would indicate. 



ROUTE TO TIMBUCTOO. 



The hire of every camel was from ten to 
twelve ducats, at five shillings sterling per du- 
cat ; as this route is through a very mountainous 
country, and the travelling is very bad, the 
charges were proportionally high ; the weight 
which every camel carried was between four and 
five quintals, the camels in this country being 
strong and very large. b 

Tafilelt is the place of general meeting of all 
the merchants who go to Timbuctoo. 

The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns, 
but abounds in fortresses with mud-walls d , which 
the natives call El Kassar, and which contain 
from three to four hundred families ; in these 
fortresses there is a public market Tin Arabic, 
soke) every week, where the inhabitants purchase 
provisions, &c. 

The natives of Tafilelt are descendants of the 
shereefs e or princes of Marocco, and are there- 
fore of the Imperial family. 

b This charge of carriage by the camels from Fas to Ta- 
filelt, is equal to 55s. sterling per camel, to 1 Jd. per mile for 
each camel, and to one farthing and one third per quintal of 
merchandise per mile. 

e That is for all who go from the Emperor of Marocco's 
dominions, north of the river Morbeya, which is called El 
Garb, or the North Western Division. 

d These mud walls are made in cases, and the mode of 
erecting ihem is called tabia. See Jackson's Account of 
the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, 
page 298. 

€ Hence it is called Bled Shereef, i. e. the Country of 
Princes. 



ROUTE TO TIMBUCTOO. 



3 



Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha f , which 
he reached in six days. The expense per camel 
was about six ducats, or thirty shillings sterling. 
The district of Draha abounds in the small 
hard date g , which is very fine ; from four to six 
drahems h (equal to two to three shillings sterling) 
is the price of a camel load of these dates. 

The province of Draha is larger than that of 
Tafilelt, its circumference being about four or 
five days' journey. The natives 1 of Draha are 

f A province at the foot of the mountains of Atlas, south 
of Marocco, for which see the Map of West Barbary, in 
Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. p. 1. 

* This date is called by the natives bouslcree : it contains 
a larger quantity of saccharine juice than any other date. 
This province also produces a date called butube, which is 
the best that grows, and is called sultan de timmar, i. e. the 
king of dates. It is not used as an article of commerce, 
but is sent as presents to the great, and costs nearly double 
the price of those of any other quality : the quality mostly 
used for foreign commerce, is the Tafilelt date, called 
timmar adamoh, which is sold by the grocers in London. 
This species is, however, considered very unwholesome 
food, and accordingly is never eaten by the Filellies, or in- 
habitants of Tafilelt, but is food for the camels. The district 
of Tafilelt abounds in dates of all kinds : there are not less 
than thirty different kinds ; and the plantations of dates be- 
longing to the princes of Tafilelt are very extensive, inso- 
much that the annual produce of one plantation is often sold 
for a thousand dollars, or 2201. sterling. Half a dollar, or 
five drahems per camel load of three quintals. 

h A drahem is a silver coin, ten of which are equal to a 
Mexico dollar. 

i Their colour is darker than new copper, but not black. 
It may be compared to the colour of old mahogany, with a 
black hue. The natives of Draha are proverbially stupid. 



4 



ROUTE TO TIMBUCTOO. 



very dark, approaching to black, in their com- 
plexion : this province abounds in fortresses, like 
those of Tafilelt. 

The caravans have not, as in the journey to 
Mecca, their sheiks k or commanders. From 
Fas to Tafilelt they had no chief, but as there 
are generally a few old, rich, and respectable 
men in the caravan, its direction and government 
are committed to their care. 

From Tafilelt, which, as before observed, is 
the country of the shereefs, they are guided by 
such of the trading shereefs as accompany the 
caravan, and who have always great respect 
paid them, till they arrive at Timbuctoo. The 
caravan increases as it proceeds in its journey : 
at Fas it consisted of about thirty or forty ; at 
Draha, of from 300 to 400 camels. From Draha, 
at the distance of three days' travelling, they 
found water by digging, and on the next morn- 
ing they entered the Sahara, which, for the first 
twenty days is a plain sandy desert resembling 
the sea. In this desert, when they pitch their 
tents at night, they are obliged frequently to 
shake the sand from their tops, as they would 
otherwise be overwhelmed before the morning. 

Some part of this desert is hard, and the 
camels do not sink deep into it ; in others the 
sand is very loose, which fatigues the camels 
exceedingly. In travelling, the caravan is di- 
rected by the stars at night, and by the sun in 

k The sheik akkabar, or chief of the accumulated caravan, 
is generally a shereef or prince. 



ROUTE TO TIMBUCTOO. 



5 



the day, and occasionally by the smell of the 
earth, which they take up in their hands. For 
the first twenty days after they enter this wil- 
derness they have no water ; during this period, 
the caravan is obliged to carry water in goat- 
skins l , as not a drop is to be found by digging. 
On this account, about a third part of the camels 
are employed in carrying water, and even with 
this quantity the camels are often left for three 
or four days without any. They never use mules 
in this part of the journey ; they neither find 
the sheh m , nor the thorny plant so common in 
the deserts of Africa. 

The country on the borders of this desert, 
to the right and left, is inhabited by roving 
Arabs, at the distance of three or four days 
from the track which the caravan pursues ; and 
is said to be partly plain, and in part hilly, with 
a little grass, and a few shrubs ; when the cattle 
of these Arabs have consumed what grows in 
one spot, their owners remove to another. The 
caravan, though it generally consisted of about 
400 men well armed, seeks its route through 
the most unfrequented part of the desert, from 
a dread of the attacks of the Arabs. The 
hottest wind is that from the east-south-east, 
and is called Esshume n ; the coldest is that 

1 These goat-skins, when containing water, are called by 
the Arabs kereb> or ghireb, plur. kerba, or ghirba, sing. 

ra The sheh is the wormseed plant, the thorny plant here 
alluded to is the wild myrtle. 

n Esshume, or the hot wind. For a particular descrip- 







ROUTE TO TIMBU'CTOO. 



which blows from the west-north-west. To 
alleviate the great drought which travellers feel 
in the desert, they have recourse to melted 
butter. ° 

After passing this desert of twenty days, they 
enter a country which varies in its appearance, 
particular spots being fertile p (called El Wah). 
Here they meet with sederah q , a kind of wild 
myrtle, in great quantities. This plant is called 
by the natives, gylan : its height is about that 
of a man ; the camels feed upon it. Between 
these shrubs there is a very small quantity of 
grass in particular spots. In this part of the 
desert they meet with extensive strata of stones: 
though the surface is generally sand, yet at the 
depth of eight or ten inches, they meet with a 
yellow or reddish earth ; and about four feet 
deeper, with another kind of earth of various 
colours, but most commonly of a brownish cast ; 
about five or six feet under this they find water, 
which springs up very slowly, and at the bottom 



tion of this extraordinary wind, see Jackson's Account 
of the Empire of Marocco, &c. &c. 2d or 3d edition, 
page 283 and 284. 

° This is old butter kept several years in a matamore, or 
subterraneous cavern. It is called by the Arabs of the de- 
sert, hUdra ; and much virtue is ascribed to it when it has 
attained a certain age : a small quantity swallowed, quickly 
diffuses itself through the system. 

* El Wah. For a full explanation of this term, see 
Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, 3d edition, 
p. 283. 

q Sederah , thorny shrubs of all kinds are so called. 



ROUTE TO TliMBUCTOO. 



7 



of this water you meet with a light sand. Some- 
times the water is sweetish, frequently brackish, 
and generally warm. This last desert is about 
twenty days' journey, and is a vast plain without 
any mountains. They meet with no Arabs in 
this part, but the country on the right and left 
of their route, at the distance of from three to 
eight days' journey, is inhabited by Arabs, who 
are governed by their own (sheiks) chiefs, and 
are perfectly independent. 

From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of forty- 
three days, they meet with no trees, except the 
sederah, no rivers, towns, or huts. From Draha, 
which is a country abounding in camels, to 
Timbuctoo, the charge per camel is from sixteen 
to twenty-one ducats. r That so long a journey 
is performed at so small * an expense, is owing 
to the abundance of camels in Draha. The 
caravan generally contains from 300 to 400 
men, of whom a great part prefer walking to 
the uneasy motion of the camels. 

r From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 1 1 ducats per camel. 
Tafilelt to Draha, 6 do. 6 do. do. 
Draha to Timbuctoo, 43 do. 18J do. do. 

69 days, for 35 £ ducats per camel 
load, which is about the rate of one farthing per quintal per 
mile. This does not include the expense of camels for the 
conveyance of merchants, servants, &c. or of provisions or 
water, but merely of those carrying goods. A full account 
of these caravans, and their mode of crossing the Sahara, 
will be found in Jackson's Marocco, ch. 13. 

• The expense is now (A. C. 1818) smaller, as the ducat, 
by a coinage which is depreciated, has fallen to 3s. 6d. 
terling. 



s 



TIMBUCTOO. 



SITUATION OF THE CITY OF TIMBUCTOO. 

On the east side of the city of Timbuctoo, 
there is a large forest, in which are a great 
many elephants. The timber here is very 
large. The trees on the outside of the forest 
are remarkable for having two different colours ; 
that side which is exposed to the morning sun 
is black, and the opposite side is yellow. The 
body of the tree has neither branches nor leaves, 
but the leaves, which are remarkably large, grow 
upon the top only : so that one of these trees 
appears, at a distance, like the mast and round 
top of a ship. Shabeeny has seen trees in Eng- 
land much taller than these : within the forest 
the trees are smaller than on its skirts. There 
are no trees resembling these in the Emperor of 
Marocco's dominions. They are of such a size 
that the largest cannot be girded by two men. 
They bear a kind of berry about the size of a 
walnut, in clusters consisting of from ten to 
twenty berries. Shabeeny cannot say what is the 
extent of this forest, but it is very large. Close 
to the town of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a 
small rivulet in which the inhabitants wash their 
clothes, and which is about two feet deep. It 
runs in the great forest on the east, and does 
not communicate with the Nile, but is lost in 
the sands west of the town. Its water is brackish j 
that of the Nile is good and pleasant. The town 
of Timbuctoo is surrounded by a mud-wall : the 



TIMBUCT00. 



9 



walls are built tabia-wise 1 as in Barbary, viz, 
they make large wooden cases, which they fill 
with mud, and when that dries they remove the 
cases higher up till they have finished the wall. 
They never use stone or brick ; they do not know 
how to make bricks. The wall is about twelve 
feet high, and sufficiently strong to defend the 
town against the wild Arabs, who come fre- 
quently to demand money from them. It has 
three gates ; one called Bab Sahara, or the gate 
of the desert, on the north : opposite to this, on 
the other side of the town, a second, called Bab 
Neel, or the gate of the Nile : the third gate 
leads to the forest on the east, and is called Beb 
El Kibla. u The gates are hung on very large 
hinges, and when shut at night, are locked, as 
in Barbary \ and are farther secured by a large 
prop of wood placed in the inside slopingly 
against them. There is a dry ditch, or ex- 
cavation, which circumscribes the town, (except 
at those places which are opposite the gates,) 
about twelve feet deep, and too wide for any man 
to leap it. The three gates of the town are 

1 The tabia walls are thus built : They put boards on each 
side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the ground, or 
attached to other stakes laid transversely across the wall ; 
the intermediate space is then filled with sand and mud, and 
beat down with large wooden mallets, (as they beat the ter- 
races) till it becomes hard and compact ; the cases are left on 
for a day or two ; they then take them off, and move them 
higher up, repeating this operation till the wall is finished. 

u El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed: in most 
African towns there is a Kibla-gate, which faces Medina in 
Arabia. 



10 



TIMBUCTOO. 



shut every evening soon after sun-set: they 
are made of folding doors, of which there is only 
one pair. The doors are lined on the outside 
with untanned hides of camels, and are so full 
of nails that no hatchet can penetrate them ; the 
front appears like one piece of iron. 

POPULATION. 

The town is once and a half the size of 
Tetuan u , and contains, besides natives, about 
10,000 v of the people of Fas and Marocco. 
The native inhabitants of the town of Timbuc- 
too may be computed at 40,000, exclusive of 
slaves and foreigners. Many of the merchants 
who visit Timbuctoo are so much attached to 
the place that they cannot leave it, but continue 
there for life. The natives are all blacks : al- 
most every stranger marries a female of the 
town, who are so beautiful that travellers often 
fall in love with them at first sight. 

INNS, OR CARAVANSERAS. 

When strangers arrive they deposit their mer- 
chandise in large warehouses called fondacs ; 
and hire as many rooms as they choose, having 

u That is about four miles in circumference. Tetuan con- 
tains 16,000 inhabitants; but, according to this account, 
Timbuctoo contains 50,000, besides slaves, a population 
above three times that of Tetuan : now, as the houses of 
Timbuctoo are more spacious than those of Tetuan, it is to 
be apprehended that Shabeeny has committed an error in 
describing the size of Timbuctoo. 

T Who go there for the purposes of trade. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



11 



stables for their camels, &c. in the same place. 
These fondacs w are private property, and are 
called either by the owner's name, or by that of 
the person who built them. The fondac, in 
which Shabeeny and his father lived, had forty 
apartments for men, exclusive of stables ; twenty 
below and twenty above, the place having two 
stories. The staircase was within the inclosure, 
and was composed of rough boards ; while he 
staid, the rooms were constantly occupied by 
natives and strangers ; they hired rooms for three 
months, for which they paid thirty okiat x , or 
fifteen shillings sterling per month. These fon- 
dacs are called Woal y by the negroes. The 
money was paid to the owner's agent, who always 
lives in the fondac for this purpose, and to ac- 
commodate strangers with provisions, &c. At 
their arrival, porters assisted them and procured 
every thing they wanted ; but when they were 
settled they hired a man and a woman slave to 
cook and to clean their rooms, and to do every 
menial office. Slaves are to be bought at all 
hours : the slave-merchants keep a great number 
ready for sale. 

HOUSES. 

In the houses little furniture is seen ; the 
principal articles (those of the kitchen excepted) 

w It is probable that Adams, the American sailor, (if he 
ever was at Timbuctoo,) saw one of these fondacs that be- 
longed to the king, and mistook it for his palace. 

* Ten okiat, or drahems, make a Mexico dollar. 

* The name of the king of Timbuctoo, in 1800 A. C. was 
Woolo. Many of the fondacs are rented of him. 



12 



TIMBUCTOO. 



are beds, mats on the floor, and the carpets', 
which cover the whole room. The rooms are 
about fourteen feet by ten ; the kitchen and 
wash-house are generally to the right and to the 
left of the passage ; the necessary is next the 
wash-house. y 

GOVERNMENT. 

Timbuctoo is governed by a native black, who 
has the title of sultan. He is tributary to the 
sultan of Housa, and is chosen by the inhabit- 
ants of Timbuctoo, who write to the king of 
Housa for his approbation. Upon the death of 
a sultan, his eldest son is most commonly chosen. 
The son of a concubine cannot inherit the throne ; 
if the king has no lawful son (son of his wife) 
at his decease, the people choose his successor 
from among his relations. The sultan has only 
one lawful wife, but keeps many concubines : 
the wife has a separate house for herself, chil- 
dren, and slaves. He has no particular esta- 
blishment for his concubines, but takes any girl 
he likes from among his slaves. His wife has 
the principal management of his house. The 
sultan's palace is built in a corner of the city, 
on the east; it occupies a large extent of ground 
within an inclosure, which has a gate. Within 
this square are many buildings ; some for the 
officers of state. The king often sits in the gate 
to administer justice, and to converse with his 
friends. There is a small garden within it, fur- 

y Being more convenient tor the Muhamedan ablutions. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



13 



nishing a fe\v flowers and vegetables for his 
table ; there is also a well, from which the water 
is drawn by a wheel. z Many female slaves are 
musicians. The king has several sons, who are 
appointed to administer justice to the natives. 
Except the king's relations, there are no nobles 
nor any privileged class of men as in Barbary a : 
those of the blood-royal are much respected. 
The officers of state are distinguished by titles 
like those of Marocco ; one that answers to an 
Alkaid, u e. a captain of 700, of 500, or of 100 
men ; another like that of Bashaw. The king, if 
he does not choose to marry one of his own rela- 
tions, takes a wife from the family of the chiefs 
of his council ; his daughters marry among the 
great men. The queen-dowager has generally 
an independent provision, but cannot marry. 
The concubines of a deceased king cannot 
marry, but are handsomely provided for by his 
successor. 

REVENUE. 

The revenue arises partly from land and partly 
from duties upon all articles exposed to sale. 
The king has lands cultivated by farmers who 
are obliged to supply his household and troops ; 

1 A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a mule 
or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a trough 
as they pass round, which trough discharges the water into 
the garden, and immerges the plants. 

a The privileged class of men in Barbary, are the Fakeers ; 
but no one in Barbary is noble but the King's relations, who 
are denominated shereefs. 



14 



TIMBUCTOO. 



the surplus after the support of their own 
families is deposited in matamores b , these are 
stores to be used in time of scarcity : the mata- 
mores are about six feet deep. The king often 
gives gold-dust, slaves, &c. to his favorites, but 
the royal domains are never given. Lands not 
very fruitful are common pastures. Moors pay 
no duties ; they say they will not bring goods if 
compelled to pay duly, but the natives must pay ; 
the duties are collected by the king's officerSjthey 
are four per cent, upon each article ad valorem. 
At the gate of the desert, goods brought by 
foreigners pay nothing, but goods brought in 
by the gate of the Nile, (which is the gate of 
the Negroes,) pay a tax : another part of the 
revenue is two per cent, in kind on the produce 
of the land ; but the people of Barb-dry do not 
pay even this for what land they cultivate. The 
property of those who die without heirs goes to 
the king, but when a foreigner dies the king takes 
no part of his property ; it is kept for his rela- 
tions. Timbuctoo beino* a frontier town remits 
no revenue to Housa ; the king of Housa sends 
money to Timbuctoo to pay the garrison. 

b Subterraneous excavations, or rooms in the form of a 
cone, which have a small opening like a trap-door; when 
these matamores are full of grain, they are shut, and the air 
being excluded, the grain deposited in them will keep sound 
twenty or thirty years. I have been in matamores in West 
and in South Barbary, that would contain 1000 saas of wheat, 
or nearly 2000 bushels Winchester measure. They are from 
six to sixteen feet deep, and of various conical forms. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



15 



ARMY. 

The troops are paid by the king of Housa, and 
are armed with pikes, swords, cutlasses, sabres, 
and muskets ; the other natives use the bow and 
arrow. At Timbuctoo, in time of war, there are 
about 12,000 or 15,000 troops, 5000 of which 
receive constant daily pay in time ofpeace,andare 
clothed every year ; they are all infantry except 
a few of the king's household. Sometimes he 
subsidises the friendly Arabs, and makes occa- 
sional presents to their chiefs c ; these Arabs can 
furnish him with from 30,000 to 40,000 men. 

ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

Punishments are the bastinado, imprisonment, 
and fine. He recollects but one prison. If a 
native stabs another, he is obliged to attend the 
wounded man until he recovers ; if he dies, the 
offender is put to death. The offender must 
pay a daily allowance to the wounded man for 
his support ; if the wound appears dangerous, 
the culprit is immediately imprisoned ; if the 
wounded man recovers, the offender must pay 
a fine and suffer the bastinado. There are four 
capital punishments : beheading, hanging, stran- 
gling and bastinadoing to death. Beheading is 
preferred ; it is thus performed : the criminal sits 
down, and a person behind gives him a blow or 
push on the back or shoulder, which makes him 
turn his head, and while his attention is thus 
employed, the executioner strikes it off. Hang- 

c Of the Brabeesli clan ; see the Map. 



16 



TIMBUCTOO. 



ing and strangling are seldom used ; and basti- 
nadoing to death, is only inflicted when the 
crime is highly aggravated. Capital crimes are 
murder, robbery with violence, and stealing 
cattle. Small offences, as stealing slaves and 
other articles, are punished by the bastinado. 
The landed estates of criminals are never for- 
feited. d The police is so good, that merchants 
reside there in perfect safety. There are no 
exactions or extortions practised by govern- 
ment, as in Barbary, nor even any presents 
asked for the king. A debtor proving his in- 
ability, cannot be molested c ; but to the extent 
of his means he is always liable ; on refusing to 
pay, he may be imprisoned ; but upon proving 
his insolvency before the judge, he is discharged, 
though always liable if he should have means 
at any future time. Watchmen patrole in the 

d But go to the next heir. 

e This is the written Muhamedan law : the insolvent is 
always liable, but cannot be arrested or imprisoned whilst he 
remains insolvent, but continues always liable for the debt 
if he afterwards becomes solvent. The present Emperor 
of Marocco has lately published an edict. Hearing that his 
Jew subjects in London frequently became bankrupts, or 
made compositions with their creditors, has enacted, that all 
persons in his dominions who live by buying and selling, shall 
pay their just debts; but if unable, their brethren, or rela- 
tions shall pay their creditors for them. If they are unable, 
the insolvent is to receive a beating every morning at sun- 
rise, to remind him of his defalcation. This law was enacted 
at Fas in 1817, and since then, lam informed, no bankruptcy 
has happened in that great commercial city. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



17 



night with their dogs ; others are stationed in 
particular places, as the market-place and the 
kasserea, or square, where the merchants have 
their shops, Guards are placed at the king's 
palace. Capital crimes are tried by the king : 
smaller offences by inferior magistrates. The 
council sit with the king, every man according 
to his rank ; it consists of the principal officers 
of his household; he asks their opinion, but 
unless they are unanimous, decides according 
to his own. There are always five or six judges 
sitting in the king's court for the general ad- 
ministration of justice. The king is understood 
to have no power of altering the laws : if the 
council are unanimous, the king never decides 
against them. d 

A slave is entirely at his master's disposal, 
w r ho may put him to death without trial ; yet 
the slave may complain to the council of ill- 
usage, and if the complaint be well-founded, 
his master is ordered to sell him. The slaves 
are always foreign ; a native cannot be made a 
slave. There are three reasons for which a 
slave may be entitled to freedom : want of food, 
want of clothes, and want of shoes : an old slave 
is frequently set at liberty, and returns to his 
own country. The children of slaves are the 
property of their master. Slaves cannot marry 
without the consent of their masters. The 

d This is a custom derived from Muhamedan govern- 
ments. 



18 



TJMBUCTOG. 



master of the female slave generally endeavours 
to buy the male to whom she is attached. e 

SUCCESSION TO PROPERTY. 

Upon the decease of a native, the first claim 
is that of his creditors; the next is that of his 
widow, who is entitled to the dower f promised 
by her husband to her father, if not already 
paid, and to one-eighth of the remainder ; the 
rest is divided among the children. A son's 
share is double that of a daughter. If they agree, 
the land may be sold, if not, it must be divided 
as above. Of lands and houses, nothing is sold 
till the children arrive at the age of discretion ; 
when each is entitled to his share, the rest 
being unsold till the others are of age in turn. 
This age is not fixed at so many years, but 

e Many conscientious Muhamedans, in purchasing slaves, 
calculate how many years' service their purchase money is 
equal to. Thus, if a man pays a servant twenty dollars a-year 
for wages, and he gives 100 dollars for a slave, he retains the 
slave rive years, when, if his conduct has been approved, he 
often discharges him from servitude. The period for liberat- 
ing slaves in this manner is however quite optional, and admits 
of great latitude; neither is there any compulsion in the 
master. I have known instances of a slave being liberated 
after a few years of servitude ; and his master's confidence 
has been such that he has advanced him money to trade with, 
and has allowed him to cross the desert to Timbuctoo, waiting 
lor the repayment of his money till his return. This is often 
the treatment of Muhamedans to slaves ! how different from 
that practised by the Planters in the West India Islands ! ! ! 

f The husband always stipulates to pay the father of his 
>vite a certain sum : this is the Muhamedan dower. 



TIMBtJCTOO. 



19 



the period of discretion is determined by the 
relations, upon oath, before a magistrate : there 
is hardly any man that knows his own age. The 
father may dispose of his property by will, as 
far as regards the property of his children, but 
he cannot divest his wife of her rights ; if a 
wife dies without a will, her children succeed. 
Wills are not written ; the guardian appointed 
by the father takes care of the property of the 
deceased, and employs in trade, and lends out 
the money for the benefit of his children. Re- 
lations succeed if there are no children ; and 
if there are no relations, the king takes all but 
the wife's share. The wife's relations are not 
considered as the husband's relations. Children 
of concubines inherit equally with those of the 
wife. If a man have two children by a concu- 
bine, she becomes free at his death, otherwise 
she remains a slave. She is entitled, having 
children, to an eighth of the property. 

MARRIAGE. 

A man agrees to pay a certain price to the 
father of his wife, and witnesses are called to sup- 
port the proof of the contract : the girl is sent 
home, and at night a feast is made by the hus- 
band for his male friends ^ by the wife for her 
female friends. 

Rape is punished by death. Adultery is not 
punishable by the law, nor is it a ground for 
divorce. A husband may always put away his 
wife, but if without sufficient legal ground, 



90 



TIMBUCTOO, 



he must pay her stipulated dower. Abusive 
language is a sufficient ground of divorce, but 
adultery is not. The dower is the price originally 
agreed upon with the father ; and if it has been 
already paid (which it seldom is), she has no 
further claim upon the husband, though put 
away without sufficient ground. Her clothes, 
jewels, &c. given to her by her relations are her 
own property. A father generally gives the 
daughter in jewels, &c. a present double the 
value of that given him by the husband. A man 
can have but one wife, but may keep concubines. 
Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by 
law. The law says, " a woman's flesh is her 
own, she may do with it what she pleases." 
Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his 
niece, but not his daughter. 

The people of Timbuctoo are not circum- 
cised. 

TRADE. 

Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the 
country of the blacks, and even for Marocco and 
Alexandria. 

The principal articles of merchandise are 
tobacco, kameemas f , beads of all colours for 
necklaces, and cowries, which are bought at Fas 
by the pound. g Small Dutch looking glasses, some 

f Kameema is the Arabic word for the linen called platti- 
lias. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at Timbuctoo. 

8 Called, in Amsterdam, Velt Spiegcls, and in Timbuctoo, 
Murraih de juah. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



21 



of which are convex, set in giit paper frames. 
They carry neither swords, muskets, nor knives, 
except such as are wanted in the caravan. At 
the entrance of the desert they buy rock-salt * of 
the Arabs, who bring it to them in loads ready 
packed, which they carry as an article of trade. 
In their caravan there were about 500 camels, of 
which about 150 or 200 were laden with salt. 
The camels carry less of salt than of any other 
article, because (being rock-salt) it wears their 
sides. They pay these Arabs from twenty to 
fifteen ounces * of Barbary money per load. An 
ounce of Barbary is worth about 6d., and a ducat 
is worth about 5s. sterling. They sell this salt 
at Timbuctoo upon an average at 50 per cent, 
profit ; it is more profitable than linen. They 
take no oil from Barbary to Timbuctoo as they 
are supplied from other places with fish-oil used 
for lamps but not for food ; they make soap 
with the oil. The returns are made in gold-dust, 
slaves, ivory, and pepper ; gold-dust is preferred 
and is brought to Timbuctoo from Housa in 
small leather bags. He bought one of these 
bags of gold-dust and pieces of rings for 90 
Mexican dollars, and sold it at Fas for 150. The 
merchants bring their gold from Timbuctoo in 
the saddle-bags, in small purses of different sizes 

h This salt is bought at Tishet, at Shangareen, and at 
Arawan, in the south part of Sahara; for which see the 
Map of Northern and Central Africa, in the new Supple- 
ment to the Encyclopaedia Britannica, Article Africa. 

3 Ohio, is the Arabic name for this piece of money. 



Tl MB V (TOO. 



one within the other. The bag which Shabeeny 
purchased was bought at Housa, where it sells for 
seven or eight ducats cheaper than at Timbuctoo. 
On articles from Marocco they make from thirty 
to fifty per cent, clear profit. Cowries and gold- 
dust are the medium of traffic. The shereefs and 
other merchants generally sell their goods to 
some of the principal native merchants, and im- 
mediately send off the slaves, taking their gold- 
dust with them into other countries. The mer- 
chants residing at Timbuctoo have agents or cor- 
respondents in other countries ; and are them- 
selves agents in return. Timbuctoo is visited 
by merchants from all the neighbouring black 
countries. Some of its inhabitants are amazingly 
rich. The dress of common women has been 
often worth 1000 dollars. A principal source of 
their wealth is lending gold-dust and slaves at 
high interest to foreign merchants, which is 
repaid by goods from Marocco and other 
countries, to which the gold-dust and slaves are 
carried. They commonly trade in the public 
market, but often send to the merchant or go to 
his house. Cowries in the least damaged are bad 
coin, and go for less than those that are perfect. 
There are no particular market days ; the public 
market for provisions is an open place fifty 
feet square, and is surrounded by shops. k The 
Arabs sit down on their goods in the middle, till 
they have sold them. The pound weight of Tim- 
buctoo is about two ounces heavier than the small 



k Similar to the corn-market at Mogodor. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



pound of Barbary, which weighs twenty Spanish 
dollars ; they have also half and quarter pounds ; 
by these weights is sold milk, rice, butter, &c. 
as well as by the measure. The weights are of 
wood or iron under the inspection of a magistrate 
called in Barbary m'tasseb, i. e. inspector of 
weights and measures, and if the weights are 
found deficient, he punishes the offender imme- 
diately ; they have also a quintal or cwt. They 
have a wooden measure called a m'hoad l , equal 
to the small m'hoad of Barbary, where a 
m'hoad of wheat weighs about 24 lb. Both the 
weights and measures are divided into *, J, f 
and T * T . 

MANUFACTURES. 

The black natives are smiths, carpenters, 
shoemakers, tailors, and masons, but not weavers. 
The Arabs in the neighbourhood are weavers, 
and make carpets resembling those of Fas and of 
Mesurata, where they are called telisse m ; they 
are of wool, from their own sheep, and camels' 
hair. The bags for goods, and the tents, are of 
goats' and camels' hair ; there are no palmetto 
trees in that country. Their thread needles, 
scissars, &c. come from Fas : most of their 

1 The m'hoad is no longer used in Barbary. There is a 
krube, of which sixteen are equal to a sua, which, when filled 
with good wheat, weighs lOOlbs. equal to 119lbs. English 
weight. 

m Telissa, sing. ; Telisse, plur. 

n To Fas they are brought from England through Gib- 
raltar and Mogodor. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



ploughs they buy of the Arabs near the town, 
who are subject to it. Some are made in the 
town. These Arabs manufacture iron from ore 
found in the country, and are good smiths. They 
make iron bars of an excellent quality. They 
tan leather for soles of shoes very well, but 
know nothing of dressing leather in oil : the 
upper leather comes from Fas ; their wooden 
combs p and spoons come from Barbary ; they 
have none of ivory or horn. No lead is brought 
from Barbary ; he thinks they have lead of their 
own. The best shoes are brought from Fas. 

HUSBANDRY. 

The country is well cultivated, except on the 
side of the desert. They have rice, el bishna q , 
and a corn which they call allila r , but in Bar- 
bary it is called drdh : this requires very rich 
ground. They make bread of el bishna : they 
have no wheat or barley. Property is fenced by a 
bank and a ditch. Dews are very heavy. Lands 
are watered by canals cut from the Nile ; high 
lands by wells, the water of which is raised by 
wheels s worked by cattle, as in Egypt. They 

° Leather is also imported from Marocco, and from Tero- 
dant in South Barbary. 

p Wooden combs are imported from Marseilles to Mo- 
godor. 

q El Bishna. This is the Arabic name for Indian corn. 
r Allila, a species of millet. 

3 A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, as before described 
in the note, page 13. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



25 



have violent thunder-storms in summer, but no 
rains : the mornings and evenings, during win- 
ter, are cold ; the coldest wind is from the west, 
when it is as cold as at Fas. The winter lasts 
about two months, though the weather is cool 
from September to April. They begin to sow 
rice in August and September, but they can 
sow it at any time, having water at hand : he 
saw some sowing rice while others were reaping 
it. El bishna and other corn is sown be- 
fore December. El bishna is ripe in June and 
July ; as are beans. Allila may be sown at all 
seasons ; it requires water only every eight or ten 
days. Their beans are like the small Mazagan 
beans, and are sown in March; the stalk is 
short, but full of pods. The allila produces a 
small, white, flattish grain. 

PROVISIONS. 

Rice is their principal food, but the rich have 
wheaten flour from Fas *, and make very fine 
bread, which is considered a luxury. Bread is 
also made from the allila. They roast, boil, 
bake, and stew, but make no cuscasoe. Their 
meals are breakfast, dinner, and supper. They 
commonly breakfast about eight, dine about 
three, and sup soon after sunset. They drink 
only water or milk with their meals, have no 
palm wine or any fermented liquor ; when they 
wish to be exhilarated after dinner, they provide 

1 And also from Marocco. 



526 



TIMBUCTOO, 



a plant of an intoxicating quality called el has- 
hisha u , of which they take a handful before a 
draught of water. 

ANIMALS. 

Goats are very large, as big as the calves in 
England, and very plentiful ; sheep are also 
very large. Cattle are small ; many are oxen. 
Milk of camels and goats is preferred to that of 
cows. Horses are small, and are principally 
fed upon camels' milk ; they are of the grey- 
hound v shape, and will travel three days without 
rest. They have dromedaries'" which travel 
from Timbuctoo x to Tafilelt in the short period 
of five or six days. 

BIRDS. 

They have common fowls, ostriches, and a 

u El Hashisha. This is the African hemp plant : it is 
esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous va- 
cuity of mind which it produces on those who smoke it : 
unlike the intoxication from wine, a fascinating stupor per- 
vades the mind, and the dreams are agreeable. The kief is 
the flower and seeds of the plant : it is a strong narcotic, so 
that those who use it cannot do without it. For a further 
description of this plant, see Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d 
edit. p. 131 & 132. 

v These horses are the desert horse, or the shrubat 
er'reeh. See Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edition, p. 94*. 
to 96. 

w These are El Heirie, (or Erragual), for a particular 
description of which see Jackson's Marocco, p. 91. to 93* 
x A distance of upwards of 1200 British miles. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



27 



bird larger than our blackbird 7 ; also storks, 
which latter are birds of passage, and arrive in 
the spring and disappear at the approach of 
winter; swallows, &c. 

FISH. 

They have many extremely good in the Nile ; 
one of the shape and size of our salmon 2 ; the 
largest of these are about four feet long. They 
use lines and hooks brought from Barbary, and 
nets, like our casting nets, made by themselves. 
They strike large fish with spears and fish-gigs. 

PRICES OF DIFFERENT ARTICLES. 

Sheep from ten to sixteen cowries. Cowries a 
are much valued, and form an ornament of 
head-dress even for the richest women ; they are 
highly valued as ornaments. Goats are cheaper 
than sheep ; the best from eight to twelve cowries. 
Fowls from four to six cowries each. Antelopes 
are very scarce and dear. Camels from thirty to 
sixty cowries, according to their size and con- 
dition. Ostriches, of which vast numbers are 
brought to market, are very cheap j the fore- 
feathers b are often carried to Tafilelt and Ma- 
rocco, the inferiors are thrown away. A good 

y The starling. 

2 The shebbel, a species of salmon, a very delicate fish, 
but so rich that it is best roasted, which the Arabs do in a 
superior manner. 

a Cowries are called El Vda^ and are sold in Santa Cruz 
and in South Barbary, at twenty Mexico dollars per quintal. 

b Called Ujuh. 



28 



TIMBUCTOO. 



slave is worth ten, fifteen, or twenty ducats of 
five shillings each ; at Fas, they are worth from 
sixty to a hundred ducats : females are the 
dearest. Slaves are most valuable about twelve 
years old. They have fish-oil for lamps, but use 
neither wax nor tallow for candles. The fish-oil 
is a great article of trade, and is brought from 
the neighbourhood of the sea by Genawa d to 
Housa, and thence to Timbuctoo ; dearer at 
Timbuctoo than at Housa, and dearer at Housa 
than at Genawa. 

DRESS. 

The sultan wears a white turban of verv fine 
muslin, the ends of which are embroidered with 
gold, and brought to the front ; this turban 
comes from Bengala. e He wears a loose white 
cotton shirt, with sleeves long and wide, open at 
the breast ; unlike that of the Arabs, it reaches 
to the small of the leg ; over this a caftan f of red 
woollen cloth, of the same length ; red is ge- 
nerally esteemed. The shirt (/curry a) is made 
at Timbuctoo, but the caftan comes from Fas, 
ready made ; over the caftan is worn a short cot- 
ton waistcoat, striped white, red, and blue ; this 

c Probably from the coast of Guinea, with which Housa 
carries on an extensive trade. 

d i. e, Guinea ; Genawa being the Arabic name for the 
coast of Guinea. 

c i. e. Bengal. 

f A caftan, or coat, with wide sleeves, no collar, but 
that buttons all down before. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



»9 



comes from Bengala, and is cslledjuliba. % The 
sleeves of the caftan are as wide as those of 
the shirt ; the breast of it is fastened with hut- 
tons, in the Moorish style, but larger. The 
juliba has sleeves as wide as the caftan. When he 
is seated, all the sleeves are turned up over the 
shoulder h , so that his arms are bare, and the air 
is admitted to his body. 

Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of 
silk, like a pear ; one of the distinctions of 
royalty. He wears, also, a close red skull-cap, 
like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one 
over each shoulder, such as the Moors wear 
round the waist; they are rather cords than 
sashes, and are very large ; half a pound of silk 
is used in one of them. The subjects wear but 
one ; they are either red, yellow, or blue, made 
at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, a sash 
round the waist, also made at Fas ; of these 
there are two kinds, — one of leather, with a 
gold buckle in front, like those of the soldiers 
in Barbary ; the other of silk, like those of the 
Moorish merchants. He wears (as do the sub- 
jects) breeches made in the Moorish fashion, of 
cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of 
woollen in winter, brought ready made from 
Fas. His shoes are distinguished by a piece of 
red leather, in front of the leg, about three inches 

g It is not the cotton cloth which comes from Bengal 
that is named Juliba, but the fashion or the cut of it. 

11 The Moorish fashion. 



so 



TIMBUCTOO. 



wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and 
gold. 

When he sits in his apartment, he wears a 
dagger with a gold hilt, which hangs on his 
right side : when he goes out, his attendants 
carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance* 

His subjects dress in the same manner, ex- 
cepting the distinctions of royalty $ viz. the pear, 
the sashes on the shoulders, and the embroid- 
ered leather on the shoes. 

The sultana wears a caftan, open in front 
from top to bottom, under this a slip of cotton 
like the kings, an Indian shawl over the should- 
ers, which ties behind, and a silk handker- 
chief about her head. Other women dress in 
the same manner. They wear no drawers. The 
poorest women are always clothed. They never 
show their bosom. The men and women wear 
ear-rings. The general expence of a woman's 
dress is from two ducats to thirty. 1 Their shoes 
are red, and are brought from Marocco. k Their 
arms and ancles are adorned with bracelets. 
The poor have them of brass ; the rich, of gold. 
The rich ornament their heads with cowries. 
The poor have but one bracelet on the leg, and 
one on the arm ; the rich, two. They also wear 
gold rings upon their fingers. They have no 
pearls or precious stones. The women do not 
wear veils. 

■ Equal to from two to thirty Mexico dollars. 
k They are manufactured at Marocco. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



SI 



DIVERSIONS. 

The king has 500 or 600 horses ; his stables 
are in the inclosure ; the saddles have a peak 
before, but none behind. He frequently hunts 
the antelope, wild ass, ostrich, and an animal, 
which, from Shabeeny's description, appears to 
be the wild cow 1 of Africa. The wild ass is 
very fleet, and when closely pursued kicks back 
the earth and sand in the eyes of his pursuers. 
They have the finest greyhounds in the world, 
with which they hunt only the antelope m ; for 
the dogs are not able to overtake the ostrich. 
Shabeeny has often hunted with the king; any 
person may accompany him. Sometimes he does 
not return for three or four days : he sets out al- 
ways after sunrise. Whatever is killed in the chace 
is divided among the strangers and other com- 
pany present ; but those animals which are taken 
alive are sent to the king's palace. He goes to 
hunt towards the desert, and does not begin till 
distant ten miles from the town. The antelopes 
are found in herds of from thirty to sixty. He 
never saw an antelope, wild ass, or ostrich alone, 
but generally in large droves. The ostriches, like 
the storks, place centinels upon the watch : thirty 
yards are reckoned a distance for a secure shot 
with the bow. The king always shoots on horse- 

1 The Aoudad ; for a particular description of which, see 
Jackson's Marocco, Chapter V., Zoology, p. 84. 

in The Gazel, or Antelope, outruns at first the greyhound ; 
hut after running- about an hour the greyhound gains on him. 



3 C 2 



TIMBUCTOO. 



back, as do many of his courtiers, sometimes 
with muskets, but oftener with bows. The king 
takes a great many tents with him. There are 
no lions, tigers, or wild boars near Timbuctoo. 
They play at chess and draughts, and are very 
expert at those games : they have no cards ; 
but they have tumblers, jugglers, and ventri- 
loquists, whose voice appears to come from under 
the armpits. He was much pleased with their 
music, of which they have twenty-four different 
sorts. They have dances of different kinds, 
some of which are very indecent. 

TIME. 

They measure time n by days, weeks, lunar 
months, and lunar years ; yet few can ascer- 
tain their age. 

RELIGION. 

They have no temples, churches, or mosques, 
no regular worship or sabbath ; but once in 
three months they have a great festival, which 
lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and 
is spent in eating and drinking. He does not 
know the cause ; but thinks it, perhaps, a com- 
memoration of the king's birth-day ; no work is 
done. They believe in a Supreme Being and 

n The hour is an indefinite term, and assimilates to our 
expression of a good while ; it is from half an hour by the 
dial to six hours, and the difference is expressed by the word 
ivahaclsaa kabeer, a long hour ; and noahad saa sereer, a little 
hour ; also by the elongation of the last syllable of the last 
word. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



S3 



another state of existence, and have saints and 
men whom they revere as holy. Some of them 
are sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary 
and Turkey ; and though physicians are numer- 
ous, they expect more effectual aid in sickness 
from the prayers of the saints, especially in the 
rheumatism. Music is employed to excite ec- 
stasy in the saint, who, when in a state of in- 
spiration, tells (on the authority of some de- 
parted saint, generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) 
what animal must be sacrificed for the recovery 
of the patient : a white cock, a red cock, a hen, 
an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal 
is then killed in the presence of the sick, and 
dressed ; the blood, feathers, and bones are pre- 
served in a shell and carried to some retired 
spot, where they are covered and marked as a 
sacrifice. No salt or seasoning is used in the 
meat, but incense is used previous to its pre- 
paration. The sick man eats as much as he can 
of the meat, and all present partake ; the rice, 
or what else is dressed with it, must be the pro- 
duce of charitable contributions from others, not 
of the house or family ; and every contributor 
prays for the patient. 

DISEASES. 

The winds of the desert produce complaints 
in the stomach, cured by medicine. They have 
professed surgeons and physicians. The bite of a 
snake is cured by sucking the wound. They have 



3* 



TIMBUCTOO. 



the jlob violently, for which sulphur from Tero- 
dant in Suae is taken internally and externally. 
This disorder is sometimes fatal. They are af- 
flicted also with fevers and agues. Bleeding is 
often successful ; the physicians prescribe also 
purgatives and emetics. Ruptures are frequent 
and dangerous ; seldom cured, and often fatal. 
They tap for the dropsy. He never heard of 
the venereal disease there. Head-aches and con- 
sumptions also prevail. The physicians p collect 
herbs and use them in medicine. 

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 

The nails and palms of the hands are stained 
red with henna q , cultivated there: the Arabs 
tatoo their hands and arms, but not the people 
of Timbuctoo. These people are real negroes ; 
they have a slight mark on the face, sloping 
from the eye ; the Foulans have a horizontal 
mark ; the Bambarrahees a wide gash from the 
forehead to the chin. Tombs are raised over the 
dead ; they are buried in a winding-sheet and a 
coffin : the relations mourn over their graves, 
and pronounce a panegyric on the dead. The 
men and women mix in society, and visit tp- 

c Probably the itch, called El Hack in Barbary. 

p The physicians have a very superior and general know- 
ledge of the virtues of herbs and plants. 

i A decoction of the herb henna produces a deep orange 
die. It is used generally by the females on their hands and 
feet : it allays the violence of perspiration in the part to 
which it h applied, and imparts a coolness. 



TIMBUCTOO. 



35 



gether with the same freedom as in Europe. 
They sleep on mattrasses, with cotton sheets and 
a counterpane ; the married, in separate beds in 
the same room. They frequently bathe the 
whole body, their smell would otherwise be 
offensive ; they use towels brought from India. 
At dinner they spread their mats and sit as in 
Barbary. They smoke a great deal, but tobacco 
is dear ; it is the best article of trade. Poison- 
ing is common ; they get the poison from the 
fangs of snakes, but, he says, most commonly 
from a part of the body near the tail, by a kind 
of distillation. Physic, taken immediately after 
the poison, may cure, but not always ; if de- 
ferred two or three days, the man must die : the 
poison is slow, wastes the flesh, and produces a 
sallow, morbid appearance. It causes great pain 
in the stomach, destroys the appetite, produces 
a consumption, and kills in a longer or shorter 
time, according to the strength of constitution. 
Some who have taken remedies, soon after the 
poison, live 8 or 10 years ; otherwise the poison 
kills in 4 or 5 days. Physicians prescribe an 
emetic, the composition of which he does not 
know. 

NEIGHBOURING NATIONS. 

There are no Arabs between Timbuctoo and 
the Nile ; they live on the other side r , and 
would not with impunity invade the lands of 

r North of the town. 



36 



TIMBUCTOOe 



these people, who are very populous, and could 
easily destroy any army that should attempt to 
molest them. The lands are chiefly private pro- 
perty. The Foulans are very beautiful. The 
Bambarrahs have thick lips and wide nostrils. 
The king of Foulan is much respected at Tim- 
buctoo ; his subjects are Muhamedans, but not 
circumcised. 8 They cannot be made slaves at 
Timbuctoo ; but the Arabs steal their girls and 
sell them ; not for slavery, but for marriage. 

Girls are marriageable very young ; sometimes 
they have children at ten years old. 

* All true Muhamedans are circumcised, so that thej 
must partake of Paganism if uncircumcised. 



JOURNEY 

FROM 

TIMBUCTOO TO HOUSA, 



Shabeeny, after staying three years at Tim- 
buctoo, departed for Housa: and crossing the 
small river close to the walls, reached the Nile 
in three days, travelling through a fine, popul- 
ous, cultivated country, abounding in trees, 
some of which are a kind of oak, bearing a large 
acorn a , much finer than those of Barbary, which 
are sent as presents to Spain. Travelling is per- 
fectly safe. They embarked on the Nile in a 
large boat with one mast, a sail, and oars ; the 
current was not rapid : having a favourable 
wind, on his return, he came back in as short a 
time as he went. The water was very red and 
sweet. b The place where they embarked is 

a Called El Belute. These acorns are much prized by 
the Muhamedans, and are considered a very wholesome 
fruit. 

b The word hellue, in Arabic, which signifies literally, 
sweet, here implies that the water was pure and good. 



88 



ROUTE TO HO US A, 



called Mushgreelia ; here is a ferry, and oppo- 
site is a village. As the current is slow, and 
they moored every night, they were eight or ten 
days sailing down the stream to Housa. They 
had ten or twelve men on board, and when it was 
calm, or the wind contrary, they rowed ; they 
steered with an oar, the boat having no rudder. 
He saw a great many boats passing up and down 
the river ; there are more boats c on this river 
between Mushgreelia and Housa than between 
Rosetta and Cairo on the Nile of Egypt, A great 
many villages are on the banks. There are 
boats of the same form as those of Tetuan and 
Tangiers, but much larger, built of planks, and 
have ribs like those of Barbary ; instead of pitch 
or tar, they are caulked with a sort of red clay, 
or bole. The sail is of canvas of flax (not cotton) 
brought from Barbary, originally from Holland ; 
it is square. They row like the Moors, going 
down the stream. 

There is a road by land from Timbuctoo to 
Housa, but on account of the expence it is not 
used by merchants : Shabeeny believes it is 
about 5 days' journey. If you go this way, you 
must cross the river before you reach Housa. 
They landed at the port of Housa, distant a day 
and a half from the town \ their merchandise was 
carried from this port on horses, asses, and horned 
cattle ; the blacks dislike camels ; they say, 
" These are the beasts that carry us into slavery" 

e See Jackson s Marocco, page SI*, 2d or 3d edition. 



ROUTE TO HOUSA. 



39 



The country was rich and well cultivated ; they 
have a plant bearing a pod called mellochia, 
from which they make a thick vegetable 
jelly. d There is no artificial road from Tim- 
buctoo to the Nile ; near the river the soil is 
miry. Shabeeny travelled from Timbuctoo to 
Housa in the hot weather when the Nile was 
nearly full ; it seldom falls much below the level 
of its banks ; he travelled on horseback from Tim- 
buctoo to the river, and slept two nights upon 
the road in the huts of the natives. One of 
the principal men in the village leaves his hut 
to the travellers and gives them a supper ; in the 
mean time he goes to the hut of some friend, 
and in the morning receives a small present for 
his hospitality. c 

THE RIVER NEEL OR NILE. 

The Neel El Kebeer f , (that is, the Great Nile,) 
like the Neel Masser or Nile of Egypt, is fullest 

d The pod of the mellochia, which grows near Sallee and 
Rabat, is of an elongated conical form, about two inches 
long. 

e This is a common custom in West and South Barbary ; 
they always clear a tent for the travellers. 

f Properly Enneel. El is the article ; but when it pre- 
cedes a word beginning with a letter called a labial, it takes 
the sound of that letter. This error is committed through- 
out a book, lately published, entitled Specimens of Arabic 
Poetry, by J. D. Carlyle, Professor of Arabic in the Uni- 
versity of Cambridge, 2d edition, p. 53, Abdalsalam, instead 
of Abdassalum ; p. 59, Ebn Alrumi, instead of Ebn Arrumi ; 
and p. 65, Alnarhurwany, for Annarhurwany, &c. &c. 



40 



ROUTE TO HOUSA. 



in the month of August, when it overflows in 
some places where the banks are low ; the water 
which overflows is seldom above midleg ; the 
banks are covered with reeds, with which they 
make mats. Camels, sheep, goats, and horses, 
feed upon the banks, but during the inundation 
are removed to the uplands. The walls of the 
huts both within and without are cased with 
wood to the height of about three feet, to preserve 
them from the water ; the wells have the best 
water after the swelling of the river. The flood 
continues about ten days ; the abundance of rice 
depends on the quantity of land flooded. He 
always understood that the Nile empties itself 
in the sea, the salt sea or the great ocean. There 
is a village at the port of Housa where he 
landed, the river here is much wider than where 
he embarked, and still wider at Jinnie. He saw 
no river enter the Nile in the course of his 
voyage. It much resembles the Nile of Egypt, 
gardens and lands are irrigated from it. Its 
breadth is various ; in some places he thinks it 
narrower than the Thames at London, in others 
much wider ; at the landing place they slept in 
the hut of a native, and next morning at sunrise 
set off for Housa, where they arrived in twelve 
hours through a fine plain without hills ; the 
country is much more populous than between 
Timbuctoo and the Nile. Ferrv boats are to 
be had at several villages. 



HOUSA. 



41 



HOUSA. 

They did not see the town till they came 
within an hour from it, or an hour and a 
half ; it stands in a plain. Housa is south-east g 
of Timbuctoo, a much larger city and nearly 
as large as London. He lived there two years, 
but never saw the whole of it. It has no walls ; 
the houses are like those of Timbuctoo, and 
form irregular lanes or streets like those of Fas 
or Marocco, wide enough for camels to pass with 
their loads. The palace is much larger than that 
of Timbuctoo ; it is seven or eight miles in circum- 
ference and surrounded by a wall ; he remembers 
but four gates, but there may be more ; he thinks 
the number of guards at each gate is about 50 $ 
it is in that part of the town most distant from 
the Nile. The houses are dark coloured and 
flat roofed. He thinks Cairo is about one-third 
larger than Housa ; the streets are much wider 
than those of Timbuctoo; the houses are covered 
with a kind of clay of different colours but 
never white. They have no chalk or lime in the 
country. 

GOVERNMENT. 

If the king has children, the eldest, if a man 
of sense and good character, succeeds ; other- 
wise, one of the others is elected. The grandees 
of the court are the electors. If the eldest son 

3 Rather south-east by east. 



42 



HOUSA. 



be not approved, they are not bound to elect 
him ; he has, however, the preference, and after 
him the other sons ; but the choice of the coun- 
cil must be unanimous, and if no person of the 
royal line be the object of their choice, they 
may elect one of their own body. The mem*, 
bers of the council are appointed by the king - y 
he chooses them for their wisdom and integrity, 
without being limited to rank : the person ap- 
pointed cannot refuse obedience to the royal 
mandate. The council consists of many hun- 
dreds. The governor who controls the police 
lives in the centre of the town. 

THE ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE 

Is very similar to that of Timbuctoo, except 
that the king is perfectly despotic ; and though 
he consults his council, he decides as he thinks 
proper. The governor administers justice in 
small affairs ; but, in important cases, he refers 
the parties to the king and council, of which he 
is himself a member. No torture is ever in- 
flicted. The governor employs a great number 
of officers of police at a distance from the town* 
If robberies are committed, the person robbed 
must apply to the chief of the district, who 
must find or take into custody the offender, or 
becomes himself liable to make compensation 
for the injury sustained. h 

b This is also the law in West Barbary. When a robbery 
is committed, the district where it has been committed is 



HOUSA. 



43 



LANDED PROPERTY. 

They have a class of men whose peculiar bu- 
siness it is to adjust all disputes concerning land ; 
the office is hereditary ; the offender pays the 
compensation, and also the fees of these offi- 
cers; the innocent pays nothing. When lands 
are bought, these officers measure them. There 
is a plant resembling a large onion, which serves 
as a land-mark ; if these are removed, (which 
cannot be easily done without discovery) refer- 
ence is had to the records of the sale, of which 
every owner is in possession ; they express the 
sum received ; the quantity, situation, and limits 
of the land. These are given by the seller, and 
are written in the language and character of the 
country, very different from the Arabic. The 
same letters are used at Timbuctoo. They write 
from right to left. The character 1 was perfectly 
unintelligible to Shabeeny. Children, whose fa- 
ther is dead, succeed to the same portion of their 



made liable for double the amount ; the half goes to the per- 
son robbed, and the other half to the treasury. The good 
effects of this law is admirable, insomuch that it has almost 
annihilated robbery: but when one has actually been com- 
mitted, the energy and exertion of every individual is di- 
rected to discover the depredator, and they seldom fail to 
discover him. The fear of the penalty also makes them 
very cautious who they admit among them ; and very inqui- 
sitive respecting the character and vocation of all, strangers 
in particular, who sojourn in their country ! ! 
' Possibly the ancient Carthaginian character. 



44 



HOUSA. 



grandfather's property as their father would, had 
he out outlived his father, though there are 
other issue of the grandfather. The rules of 
succession are the same as at Timbuctoo. 

Persons of great landed property, of which 
there are many, employ agents or stewards; 
they let the lands,, and the rents are paid some- 
times in kind, and sometimes in gold-dust and 
cowries. Houses are let by the month. He 
paid four Mexico dollars per month ; but a native 
would not have paid above two for the same 
house. A man who has five Mexico dollars k a 
month, is esteemed in easy circumstances ; 
those, however, who have 30 or 40 per month, 
are common. 

REVENUES. 

The king has 2 per cent, on the produce of 
the land. The revenues arise from the same 
sources as at Timbuctoo, but are much larger. 
Foreign merchants pay nothing, as the Hou- 
saeens think they ought to be encouraged. The 
revenue is supposed to be immense. 

ARMY. 

He cannot precisely tell the number of troops, 
but believes the king can raise 70,000 to 80,000 
horse, and 100,000 foot. The horses are poor 
and small, except a few kept for the king's own 

k Ten dollars worth of rice is sufficient for the daily food 
of a man a twelvemonth. 



HOUSA. 



45 



use. He has no well-bred mares. Their arms 
are the same as at Timbuctoo ; the muskets, 
which are matchlocks, are made in the coun- 
try. They are very dexterous in throwing the 
lance. Gunpowder is also manufactured there ; 
the brimstone is brought from Fas ; the charcoal 
they make ; and he believes they prepare the 
nitre. 1 Their arrows are feathered and barbed ; 
the bows are all cross-bows, with triggers ; the 
arrows, 20 to 40 in a quiver, are made of hides, 
and hang on the left side. The king never goes 
to war in person. The soldiers have a peculiar 
dress ; their heads are bare ; but the officers 
have a kind of turban ; the soldiers have a shirt 
of coarse white cotton, and yellow slippers ; 
those of the officers are red. Some have tur- 
bans adorned with gold. They carry their 
powder in a leather purse ; the match, made of 
cotton, is wound round the gun ; they have 
flint and steel in a pouch, and also spare matches. 

THE TRADE 

Is similar to that of Timbuctoo ; in both places 
foreign merchants always employ agents, or 
brokers, to trade to advantage ; a man should 
reside sometime before he begins. Ivory is sold 
by the tooth ; he bought one, weighing 200 lb. 
for five ducats (1/. 5s.) ; he sold it in Marocco 
for 25 ducats, per 100 lb. ; it is now ra worth 60. 

1 The saltpetre and brimstone are probably derived from 
Terodant in Suse, where both abound. 
m A. D, 1795. 



46 



HOUSA. 



The king cannot make any of his subjects slaves. 
They get their cotton from Bengala. a They 
have no salt, it comes from a great distance, 
and is very dear. Goods find a much better 
market at Housa than at Timbuctoo. There 
are merchants at Housa from Timboo, Bornoo, 
Moshu, and India ; the travelling merchants do 
not regard distance. From Timboo and other 
great towns he has heard, and from his own 
knowledge can venture to assert, that they bring 
East India goods. Gold-dust, ivory, and slaves 
are the principal returns from Housa. The 
people of Housa have slaves from Bornoo, 
Bambarra, Jinnie, Beni Killeb 9 (sons of dogs), 
and Beni Aree (sons of the naked) ; they are, 
generally, prisoners of war, though many are 
stolen when young, by people who make a trade 
of this practice. The laws are very severe 
against this crime ; it requires, therefore, great 
cunning and duplicity ; no men of any property 
are ever guilty of it. The slave stealers take 
the children by night out of the town, and sell 
them to some peasant, who sells them to a third, 
and so from hand to hand, till they are carried 
out of the country ; if this practice did not exist, 
there would be few slaves for the Barbary mar- 
ket. Beyond the age of fourteen or fifteen, a slave 
is hardly saleable in Barbary. Few merchants 

n Bengal, or the East Indies. 

° Properly Ben Ekkilleb, or Hel Ekkileb, i. e. the canine- 
race. These are described to be swift of foot and low of 
stature, having a language peculiar to themselves. 



HOUSA. 



4? 



bring to Housa above two or three slaves at a 
time ; but there are great numbers of merchants 
continually bringing them. His own slave was 
a native of Bambarra, and was brought very 
young to Timbuctoo. Slaves are generally stu- 
pid ; but his, on the contrary, was very sensible ; 
he understood several languages, particularly 
Arabic ; he bought him as an interpreter ; he 
would not have sold publicly for above twenty 
ducats ; but he gave .50 for him ; his master part- 
ing with him very reluctantly. He bought 
two female slaves at Housa, at 15 ducats each. p 
The value of slaves has since then doubled in 
Barbary ; he does not know the present q price at 
Timbuctoo. At Timbuctoo not ten slaves in the 
hundred bought there, are females ; when bought, 
the merchant shuts them up in a private room, 
bnt not in chains, and places a centinel at the 
door : when the confidence of any of them is 
supposed to be gained, they are employed as 
centinels. Housa having a great trade, is much 
frequented by people from Bambarra, Foulan, 
Jinnie, and the interior countries. 

Manufactures and husbandrv are similar to 
those at Timbuctoo. 

CLIMATE. 

The hot winds blow from the east ; the sum- 
*ner is hotter than in Marocco, and hotter at 

About the 1790th year of the Christian era. 
9 In the year 1795. 



48 



HOUSA. 



Timbuctoo than at Housa. The cold winds are 
from the west : the morning fog is great. He 
never saw it rain at Housa, in the course of two 
years ; he says it never rains there. Scarcity is 
never known, A considerable part of their 
provisions is brought from the banks of the 
Nile ; the river, when overflowing, never reaches 
above half way from its common channel to- 
wards Housa. They have excellent wells in 
their houses, but no river near the town. 

ZOOLOGY. 

He saw no camels at Housa, but heard, they 
use them to fetch gold, and cover their legs with 
leather, to guard them from snakes. They 
have dogs and cats, but no scorpions or snakes 
in their houses. Lice, bugs, and fleas abound. 
He saw no wild animals or fowl in the neigh- 
bourhood of Housa. 

DISEASES. 

Physicians agree with the patient for his cure. 
No cure no pay. The prevailing diseases are 
colds and coughs. 

RELIGION. 

The same as at Timbuctoo ; the poorer classes, 
as in most countries, have many superstitious 
notions of spirits, good and bad, and are alarmed 
by dreams, particularly, the slaves, some of 
whom cannot retain their urine in the night, as 
he thinks, from fear of spirits, they take them 



HOUSA. 



49 



often upon trial when they buy them, and if 
they have this defect, a considerable deduction, 
is made in the price. A man possessed by a 
good spirit is supposed to be safe amidst 10,000 
shot. A man guilty of a crime, who in the opinion 
of the judge is possessed by an evil spirit, is not 
punished ! He never heard of a rich man being 
possessed. 

PERSONS. 

They are of various sizes, but the tallest man 
he ever saw was at Housa. The city being very 
large, he seldom had an opportunity of seeing 
the king, as at Timbuctoo. He saw him but 
twice in two years, and only in the courts of 
justice ; he was remarkable for the width of his 
nostrils, the redness of his eyes, the smoothness 
of his skin, and the fine tint of his perfectly 
black complexion. 

DRESS. 

Like that of Timbuctoo, their turbans are 
of the finest muslin. The sleeves of the soldiers 
are small, those of the merchants wide. The 
former have short breeches, the latter long. 
The officers dress like the merchants, each ac- 
cording to his circumstances. The caftan is 
of silk, in summer, brought from India ; instead 
of the silk cords worn by the king of Timbuctoo, 
the king of Housa wears two silk sashes, three 
fingers broad, one on each shoulder ; they are 
richly adorned with gold ; in one hangs his 



50 



HOUSA. 



dagger, and when he rides out, his sword in the 
other ; he wears not the silk pear in his turban, 
as does the king of Timbuctoo. The front of 
his turban is embroidered with gold. 

BUILDINGS, 

The houses are like those at Timbuctoo, but 
many much larger. They have no wind or 
water-mills, but they have stone mills, turned 
by horses. 

MANNERS. 

They never bow. An inferior kisses the hand 
of a superior ; to an equal he nods the head, 
gives him his hand and asks him how he does. 
The women do the same. 

The general body are honest and benevolent, 
the lower class is addicted to thieving. Thev 
are very careful of children, to prevent their 
being stolen. Snakes do not frequent cultivated 
lands, so that animals are not there in danger 
from them. The people of Timbuctoo and Housa 
resemble each other in their persons and in their 
manners. They castrate bulls, sheep, and goat?, 
but never horses. Supper is the principal meal. 
They do not use vessels of brass or copper in 
cookery ; they are all of earthenware. At sun- 
set the watchmen are stationed in all parts of 
the town, and take into custody all suspected or 
unknown persons. They have lamps made of 
wood and paper ; the latter comes from Fas. 
Women of respectability are attended by a slave 



HOUSA. 



51 



when they walk out or visit, which they do with 
the same freedom as in Europe. The women ride 
either horses or asses, they have no mules ; the 
men commonly prefer walking, they are strong 
and seldom sensible of fatigue, which he attri- 
butes to their having a rib more than white men. 
Some bake their own bread, others buy it, as in 
England. They make leavened bread of allila r 
and bishna ; the cattle-market is within the city, 
in a square, appropriated to this purpose. There 
are a great many rich men, some by inheritance, 
others by trade. Every morning the doors of the 
rich are crowded with poor, the master sends 
them food, rice, milk, &c. They have names 
for every day. They make their own pipes for 
smoking, the tubes are of wood. They have 
songs, some with chorus, and some sung by two 
persons in alternate stanzas. They have the 
same feasts once a quarter as at Timbuctoo. 
The king has but one wife, but many concubines. 
The favourite slaves of the queen of Housa are 
considered as superior to the queen of Tim- 
buctoo. 

GOLD. 

The ground where it is found is about sixteen 
miles from Housa. They go in the night with 
camels whose legs and feet are covered to pro- 
tect them against snakes, they take a bag of sand, 
and mark with it the places that glitter with gold ; 

T Millet and Indian com. 



52 



HOUSA, 



in the morning they collect where marked, and 
carry it to refiners, who, for a small sum, separate 
the gold. There are no mountains or rivers near 
the spot, it is a plain without sand, of a dark 
brown earth. Any person may go to seek 
gold ; they sell it to the merchants, who pay a 
small duty to the king. The produce is un- 
certain ; he has heard that a bushel of earth has 
produced the value of twelve ducats, three 
pounds sterling, of pure gold. They set out 
from Housa about two o'clock in the afternoon, 
arrive about sun-set, and return the next day 
seeking for gold during the whole night. 

LIMITS OF THE EMPIRE 

Beyond Timboo, on the north side of the 
Nile, are very extensive. Afnoo is subject to the 
king of Housa, noslaves can be made from thence. 
Darfneel is near Afnoo; the latter is on the north 
side of the river, nearer to its source, and a great 
way from Timbuctoo. No Arabs are found on 
the banks of the Nile. He supposes the cir- 
cumference of the empire to be about twenty five 
days' journey ; has heard that many other large 
towns are dependent upon it, but does not re- 
member their names. 

The neighbouring countries are Bambarra, 
Timboo, Mooshee, and Jinnie ; all negroes. 
He has heard of Bernoo s as a great empire. 

» Ber Noh, or Bernoh, i. e. the country of Noah, is said 
by the Africans, to be the birth-place of the patriarch Noah. 



HOUSA. 



53 



On the 31st of March, 1?90, Shabeenee gave 
further information, in the presence of Lord 
Rawdoir, Mr. Stuart, and Mr. Wedgewood. 
Mr. Wedgewood proposed the questions, and 
Mr. Dodsworth interpreted. The following is 
some of the information, omitting what has been 
noticed already. 

Between Timbuctoo and Housa, there is a 
very good trade. Timbuctoo is tributary to the 
king of Housa. The imports into Timbuctoo u 
are spices, corn, and woollens from Barbary, 
and linens from the sea-coast. 

The written character is very large, perhaps 
half an inch long. The empire is divided into 
provinces ; the provinces into districts. The 
king appoints the governors of both ; but the 
son of the deceased governor is understood to 
have the preference. 

They make their pottery by a wheel, but do 
not glaze it. The wheel turns upon a pivot 
placed in a hole in the ground : at top and bot- 
tom are two pieces of wood like a tea-table ; the 
lower, which is largest, is turned by the foot, 
and the upper forms the vessel. When they 
make a large pot, they put on the top a larger 
piece : the pots are dried in the sun or burnt in 
the fire. The iron mines are in the desert ; the 
iron is brought in small pieces by the Arabs, 
who melt and purify it. They cannot cast iron. 

* Now the Marquis of Hastings. 

u For a more detailed account of the imports to Timbuc- 
too, see Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. 



54 



HO USA, 



They use charcoal fire, and form guns and 
swords with the hammer and anvil. The points 
of their arrows are barbed with iron ; the cross- 
bows have a groove for the arrow. No man can 
draw the bow by his arm alone, they have a kind 
of lever ; the bow part is of steel brought from 
Barbary, and is manufactured at TimbuctoOo 
They do not make steel themselves. 

The/ inoculate for the small-pox ; the pus i& 
put into a dried raisin and eaten. " Rooka Din- 
dooka" is a kind of oath, and means, by God. 
They believe only one God. After dinner they 
use the Arabic expression, El Hamd Ulillah ; 
praise to be to God. x 

They believe the immortality of the soul, and 
that both men and women go to paradise ; that 
there is no future punishment ; the wicked are 
punished in this world. Happiness, after death, 
consists in being in the presence of God. They 
are not circumcisedc A divorce may take place 
while a woman is pregnant, but she cannot 
marry again till delivered. As soon as a woman 
is divorced, midwives, women brought up to that 
profession, examine her to see whether she is 
pregnant. 

x This is the Arabic, or Muhamedan grace after meat ; 
the grace before meat is equally sententious, viz. Bismillahj. 
u e. in the name of GocL 



54 HOUSA. 

They use charcoal fire, and form guns and 





LETTERS 



CONTAINING 

AN ACCOUNT OF JOURNIES 

THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF 

WEST AND SOUTH BARBARA 7 , 

AT DIFFERENT PERIODS, 
PERFORMED PERSONALLY BY J. G. J. 

— \ 

LETTER I. 

On the opening of the Port of Agadeer, or Santa Cruz in 
Suse, and of its Cession by the Emperor Midey Yezzid, 
to the Dutch. 

TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ, 
(Late British Consul for Senegambia) Eversholt, near Woburn, 
Bedfordshire. 

Mogodor, 28th February, 1792. 

The emperor has consented to the proposition 
of the Dutch government, to open the port of 
Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, in the province of 
Suse, to the commerce of that nation ; and I 
have finally resolved to establish a house there, 
so soon as the sultan Yezzid's order respecting 
that port shall reach the hands of Alkaid Aumer 
ben Daudy, the governor of this port. There 
are various political intrigues in agitation, to 



56 COMMERCE WITH TIMBUCTOO. 

deter me from going personally to establish the 
commerce of this most desirable and long-ne- 
glected port of Santa Cruz. The governor 
anticipates a considerable diminution in the 
treasury of Mogodor $ and the merchants of this 
place anticipate a great diminution of the vari- 
ous articles of produce of this fine country, 
seeing that the principal articles of exportation 
from the empire of Marocco are produced in 
the province of Suse, and in the neighbourhood 
of Santa Cruz. 

The stream of commerce will, therefore, ne- 
cessarily be converted from Mogodor to Santa 
Cruz. The merchants of Fas also, who have 
their establishments and connections at Timbuc- 
too, and in other parts of Sudan, will resort to 
Santa Cruz in preference to Mogodor, for all 
European articles calculated for the markets of 
Sudan, the former port being in the neighbour- 
hood of the desert, or Sahara, and at a conve- 
nient distance from Akka in Lower Suse, the 
general rendezvous of the akkaba, (or accumu- 
lated caravans,) destined for the interior regions 
of Africa or Sudan. This akkaba starts annu- 
ally for Timbuctoo, consisting of 2000 or 3000 
camels, loaded with merchandise from Fas, 
Tetuan, Sallee, Mogodor, Marocco, Tafilelt, 
Draha, and Terodant. The port of Santa Cruz 
is hence aptly denominated Beb Sudan, i. e. the 
gate or entrance of Sudan. 

The port of Santa Cruz was formerly farmed 



SANTA CRUZ FARMED BY SULTAN 1SHMAEL. 5J 

by the emperor a Muley Ishmael, to some Euro- 
pean power, for 50,000 dollars a-year, as I have 
been informed ; others say it was purchased of 
him by his own Jewish subjects, for the purposes 
of trade. However this may have been, no ad- 
vantage was ever taken of the favourable oppor- 
tunity then offered, of opening and securing to 
Europe an extensive and lucrative trade with 
the various countries of Sudan or Nigritia. 

I can account for this omission only by sup- 
posing that the interior of Africa was then less 
known than even it now is; and that the mer- 
chants then established at Santa Cruz, had there 
sufficient advantages in commerce to engage 
their attention, without examining into this im- 
mense undiscovered mine of wealth ! 

a Great-grandfather of Muley Soliman, the present em- 
peror, who is denominated Soliman ben Muhamed ben Ab- 
dallah ben Ismael. 



LETTER II. 

The Author's arrival at Agadeer or Santa Cruz. — He 
opens the Port to European Commerce. — His favour- 
able Reception on landing there. — Is saluted by the 
Battery. — Abolishes the degrading Custom that had 
been exacted of the Christians, of descending from on 
Horseback, and entering the Town on Foot, like the 
Jews. — Of a Sanctuary at the Entrance of tlie Town, 
which had ever been considered Holy Ground, and none 
but Muhamedans had ever before been permitted to enter 
the Gates on Horseback. 

TO THE SAME. 

Santa Cruz, 7th March, 1792. 

The emperor's a letter ordering the port of Santa 
Cruz to be opened to the Dutch, having reached 
Mogodor, and having received my instructions 
from Webster Biount, Esq. Dutch consul-ge- 
neral to this empire, to act as agent for him at 
that port, until my appointment be ratified and 
confirmed by the States General, of which he 
informs me there is no doubt, I proceeded 
hither in the Snell Zee Post, Dirk Morris, 
master ; and after being becalmed off ( AfFernie) 
Cape de Geer, I arrived here the third morning 
after my departure from Mogodor. I sent my 
horses by land; and on our approach to the 

a See specimens of Arabic epistolary correspondence, 
Appendix, Letter 9th. 



LANDING AND RECEPTION AT SANTA CRUZ. 59 

shore, I discovered them approaching the moun- 
tain on which Santa Cruz stands. Soon after 
we came to anchor in the road, the boats came 
oft) and the battery, which is situated about 
half-way up the mountain on the western de- 
clivity, saluted me with 8 guns, (the Muhame- 
dans always saluting with an even number.) 
This compliment being unexpected, we were 
about half an hour preparing to return it, when 
we saluted the battery with 9 guns. The cap- 
tain of the port received me with great courtesy, 
and was ordered by the bashaw El Hayanie, 
governor of Santa Cruz, to pay the most un- 
qualified attention to my wishes. I landed 
amidst an immense concourse of people, as- 
sembled on the beach to witness the re-establish- 
ment of their port, most of whom were without 
shoes, and very ill clad. 

The most hearty exclamations of joy and ap- 
probation were manifested by the people when 
I landed; a merchant was come to establish, 
once more, that commerce by which the fathers 
of the present generation had prospered 5 and 
their sons appeared to know full well the ad- 
vantages that again awaited their industry, which 
for 30 years had not been exercised. I mounted 
my horse on the beach, amidst the general ac- 
clamations of the people, and ascended the 
mountain, on the summit of which is the town. 
On my arrival at the gate, I was courteously 
received by the bashaw's sons ; who, however, 
informed me that the entrance of Santa Cruz was 



60 AN ANCIENT CUSTOM ABOLISHED. 



ever considered holy ground, and that Christians, 
during its former establishment, always de- 
scended and entered the town on foot, inti- 
mating at the same time that it was expected I 
should do the same. I had been before cautioned 
by Mr. Gwyn, the British consul at Mogodor, 
not to expostulate at this request, as it would 
certainly be required of me to conform to ancient 
usages. But I knew too well the disposition of 
the people, and the great desire that pervaded 
all ranks to have the port established ; I there- 
fore turned my horse, and told the bashaw's 
sons, that I was come, with the blessing of God, 
to bring prosperity to the land, to make the poor 
rich, and to improve the condition and multiply 
the conveniences of the opulent ; that I came to 
establish commerce for their advantage, not for 
mine ; that it was indifferent to me whether I 
returned to Mogodor or remained with them. 
The sons of the bashaw became alarmed, and 
entreated me, with clasped hands, to wait till 
they should report to the bashaw my words and 
observations. I consented, and soon after they 
returned with their father's earnest request that 
I should enter a-horseback : old customs, said 
the venerable old bashaw when, immediately 
afterwards, I met him in the street ; old customs 
are abolished, enter and go out of this town 
a-horseback or a-foot, we desire the prosperity 
of this port, and that its commerce may flourish ; 
All the people of Suse hail you as their deliverer, 
God has sent you to us to turn the desert into 



A NEW PRIVILEGE ESTABLISHED. 6l 



(jinen afia) a fruitful garden ; come, and be wel- 
come, and God he with you. 

I was conducted to the best house in the 
town, a house which belonged to our predeces- 
sor, Mr. G rover ; and I was informed, that if 
any demur had been made by the bashaw re- 
specting my entrance through the sanctuary or 
holy ground, it might have caused an immediate 
insurrection ; so anxious and impatient were all 
ranks of people for the new establishment of 
this eligible port of Suse. 

The privilege thus established, of riding in 
and out of the town, I continued ; and I pro- 
cured it immediately afterwards for all Chris- 
tians ! even masters of ships and common 
sailors, 



62 



LETTER III. 

The Author makes a Commercial 'Road down the Moun- 
tain^ to facilitate the Shipment of Goods. — The Energy 
and Liberality of the Natives, in worthing gratuitously 
at it. — Description of the Portuguese Tower at Tildie. 
—Arab Repast there. — Natural Strength of Santa Cruz, 
of the Town of Aguzem, and the Portuguese Spring 
and Tank there. — Attempt of the Danes to land and 
build a Fort. — Eligibility of the Situation of Santa 
Cruz, for a Commercial Depot to Supply the whole of 
the Interior of North Africa with East India and Eu- 
ropean Manufactures. — Propensity of the Natives to 
Commerce and Industry, if Opportunity offered. 

TO THE SAME. 

Santa Cruz, 20th March, 1792. 
The road up the mountain of Santa Cruz was so 
dangerous and impassable, that I undertook to 
repair it ; accordingly, I agreed with a Shilluh 
to make it safe and convenient for transporting 
goods for shipment ; and such was the eager de- 
sire of the people for the establishment of the 
port, that hundreds brought stones and assisted 
gratuitously in the construction of this road ; 
so that what would have cost in England thou- 
sands of pounds, was here completed for a few 
hundred dollars. 

The natives of this long-neglected territory 
were too acute not to perceive the field of wealth 
that was thus opened to their industry; they 
were convinced, from the traditions of their 



BENEFICIAL INFLUENCE OF COMMERCE. 63 

fathers, of the incalculable benefits that would 
arise from a commercial reciprocity ; and they 
were determined to cultivate the opportunity 
that was now offered to put them in possession 
of those commercial advantages which their 
fathers had enjoyed before : the benefits of which 
they had often related to their children, when 
they talked of the prosperity and riches of the 
country during the reign of Muley Ismael, when 
this port was before open to foreign commerce. 
Agreeably to these well-founded anticipations, 
the genial influence of commerce began, soon 
after my arrival, to manifest itself throughout all 
ranks and denominations of men ; the whole 
population visibly improved in their apparel and 
appearance ; new garments were now becoming 
common, and were every where substituted for 
the rags and wretchedness before xvitnessed on 
landing here. 

About four miles east of Santa Cruz, in a 
very romantic valley surrounded by mountains, 
are found the ruins of a Portuguese tower. 
Tildie, which is the name of this place, abounds 
in plantations of the most delicious figs, grapes 
of an enormous size and exquisite flavour, citrons, 
oranges, water-melons, w T alnuts, apricots in great 
abundance, and peaches, &c. &c. 

I invited a party of Arabs to accompany me 
to this delightful retreat, where we dined : the 
Arabs killed two sheep ; one they roasted whole 
on a wooden spit, made on the spot ; the other 
they baked whole in an oven made for the pur- 



64 



COOKERY OF THE ARABS. 



pose, in the following manner : A large hole 
was dug in the ground ; the inside was plaistered 
with clay ; after which they put fire in the hole 
till the sides were dry ; they then put the sheep 
in, and the top was covered by clay in the form 
of an arch, fashioned and constructed by the 
hand only ; they afterwards made a large 
trough round this temporary oven, and rilled 
it with wood, to which they set fire. The 
sheep was about three hours preparing in this 
manner, and it was of exquisite flavour ; the 
roasted mutton also was equally well flavoured. 
No vegetables were served with this repast ; for 
I had desired that the fare should be precisely ac- 
cording to their own custom ; I therefore declined 
interfering with the arrangement of the food. 
This mode of cooking is in high estimation with 
travellers. These people never eat vegetables 
with their meat. When they see Europeans 
eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of ve- 
getables, they express their surprise, observing 
that the taste of the vegetables destroys the taste 
of the meat ; and vice versa, that the taste of 
the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables ! 

The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit 
of a branch of the Atlas, by the Portuguese, is 
enclosed by a strong wall, fortified with bastions 
mounting cannon ; it is about a mile in circum- 
ference. Half way down the mountain, on the 
western declivity, opposite the sea, stands a 
battery, which defends the town, towards the 
north, south, and west, at the foot of the moun- 



NATURAL STRENGTH OF SANTA CRUZ, 6\5 

tairu Westward, on the shore of the sea, stands 
a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the natives of 
this country,) Agurem. There is a copious 
spring of excellent water at Agurem, built and 
ornamented by the Portuguese, when they had 
possession of this country, and called by them 
Fonte, which name the town still retains, and is 
so called by Europeans. The royal arms of 
Portugal are seen, carved in stone, over the 
tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water 
from here, having none but rain-water in the 
town, which is collected in the rainy season, 
and preserved in subterraneous apartments, 
called mitferes b , one of which is attached to 
every respectable house, and contains sufficient 
for the consumption of the family during the 
year. The natural position of Santa Cruz 
is extremely strong, perhaps not less so than 
Gibraltar, though not on a peninsula ; and 
it might, in the hands of an European 
power, be made impregnable with very little 
expence; it might also be made a very con- 
venient and most advantageous depot for the 
establishment of an extensive commerce with 

b The mitfere under my house at Santa Cruz, contained, 
when full, four hundred pipes of water. At the termination 
of the rainy season in March, it was generally about two- 
thirds full, supplied from the flat roof or terras during the 
rainy season. There was always much more than we could 
consume, accordingly great quantities were distributed 
among the poor, about the close of the season, or the autumr 
previous to the next rainy season. 



€€ mQMKk POSITION Off CittfZ. 

the whole of the interior of North Africa. An 
attempt of this kind was made about forty or 
fifty years since, by the Danes, who anchored 
with several ships, and landed a mile south of 
Agurem ; and with stones, all ready cut, and 
numbered, erected on an eminence*, by the 
dawn of the following day, a battery of twelve 
guns. But by a stratagem of the bashaw Ei 
Hayanie, who at that time was bashaw of Suse, 
they were rendered unahle to retain possession 
of their fort ; their plans were accordingly dis- 
concerted, and the adventurers retreated, and 
returned to their ships. 

At the south-east extremity of the wall of 
Santa Cruz there is a round battery, which pro- 
tects the town from west to east ; and might 
be made to protect the valley to the east of the 
mountain. This battery, with a little military 
skill, might be made to protect every access 
to the town, not protected by the battery be- 
fore mentioned, which is situated about half 
way up the western declivity of the mountain, 
and which commands or secures the fonte, or 
spring, against an attack from any hostile force. 



Called Agadeer Arba. 



67 



LETTER IV. 

Command of ttie Commerce of Sudan. 

TO THE SAME. 

Santa Cruz, May 5, 1792. 

If Great Britain were to purchase the port 
of Santa Cruz of the emperor, for a certain 
annual stipend, we should be enabled to com- 
mand the whole commerce of Sudan, at the 
expence of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt ; 
not at the expence of Marocco, because an equi- 
valent, or what the emperor would consider as 
such, would be given in exchange for it ; and 
we should then supply all those regions with 
merchandise, at the first and second hand, which 
they now receive through four, five, and six. 
We should thus be enabled to undersell our 
Moorish competitors, and thus draw to our 
commercial depot, all the gold-dust, gold-bars, 
and wrought-gold, gum-sudan, (commonly called 
in England, Turkey gum-arabic), ostrich feathers, 
and other articles the produce of Sudan ; besides 
the produce of Suse, viz. gum-barbary, sandrac, 
euphorbium, and ammoniac, almonds, olive oil, 
wine, &c, together with the richest fruits of 
every kind. Th^se we should take in barter for 
our manufactures. 

The road of Santa Cruz is very safe, and the 



68 



ANCHORAGE AT SANTA CRUZ. 



best in the empire of Marocco ; it is defended 
from the fury of the tremendous gales that 
visit this coast in December and January, and 
which invariably blow from the south, by a 
projection of land that extends gradually from 
the river Suse to cape Noon, very far westward 
into the ocean. During my residence of several 
years at this summit of Atlas, not one ship was 
wrecked or lost ; there is plenty of water, and 
good anchorage for ships of the line. 

A thousand European troops, directed by a 
vigilant and experienced captain, might take the 
place by a coup de main ; and the natives, 
(after a proper explanation and assurance that 
trade was the object of the capture,) would 
probably become allies of the captors, and 
would supply in abundance all kind of pro- 
visions. They esteem the English, and de- 
nominate them their brothers. a They sorely 
regret the loss of trade occasioned by the 
emperor's restrictions, and would gladly promote 
the cultivation of commerce if they had an 
opportunity. They have been from time im- 
memorial a trading generation. 

* N'henna u VIngleex KhovoaUy they say, " we and the 
English are brothers." 



69 



LETTER V. 

FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. 
My dear Sir, 

I have this moment received your favour, dated 
yesterday, and am extremely sorry I had not 
the pleasure of seeing you before your de- 
parture. We might have taken a farewell din- 
ner together. You will most highly oblige me 
by communicating to me ail the intelligence 
you can collect concerning the interior of 
Africa, more especially of Timbuctoo ; its trade, 
government, geographical situation, and the 
manners and customs of its inhabitants. If you 
could send me too, any of its products or manu- 
factures, which may appear to you curious or 
interesting, or may serve to shew the state of 
knowledge and civilisation in the country, and 
the progress they may have made in the arts, in 
manufactures or commerce, you will confer 
upon me a singular favour ; the expence of 
which I will readily repay, and which I shall be 
happy to return whenever I can be of use to you. 
If ever this region of Africa, which excites so 
strongly our curiosity, should be laid open to us, 
you are, of all the men with whom I am ac- 
quainted, the best qualified, and the most likely 
to lead the way to this important discovery. 
I request you to favour me with your corre- 
spondence ; let me hear from you as frequently 



70 



CONSUL AT SENEGAMB1A. 



as possible, without ceremony, and as one who 
washes to be considered as an old friend. When 
peace returns, I shall certainly take my station 
in Senegambia % where we may then be fellow- 
labourers in the same vineyard. There is no 
news yet of Park ; perhaps you would like 
to know how he proceeds ; and as I expect 
to hear of him by the return of my ship, I 
will inform you, if you w T ish it ; and, in short, 
will keep up a regular correspondence on my 
part, if you will do the same on your's. Pray, 
in what ship do you go ? Perhaps, if you w r ould 
give me encouragement, I might venture into 
a little commercial speculation to Santa Cruz. 
I heartily wish you a pleasant voyage, health, 
and success ; and am, with great regard, 

My dear Sir, 

Very truly your's, 

J. WILLIS. 

August 12, 1796. 

* Mr. James Willis had the appointment of consul at 
Senegambia, and was then waiting an opportunity of pro- 
ceeding thither. 



71 



LETTER VI. 

FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. 
My dear Sir, 

I duly received your letter from Gibraltar, 
and have made known to Government the ex- 
pediency of sending a person to Marocco, to 
oppose the influence of the French and 
Spaniards ; but I cannot yet say with certainty 
whether the measure will be adopted or not ; 
if it should, you may rely upon my attention 
to your interest. I have given your name to 
the secretary of state* and have spoken of you 
with that distinction, which I think, without 
any flattery, your qualifications justly deserve. 

Peace still appears to be at a great distance, 
since the late negociations ; yet, as nothing is 
so uncertain as an event of this kind, it may 
come upon us, (as the last peace did) like a 
thief in the night, when we least expect it. 
You will have, I have no doubt, frequent op- 
portunities of procuring information concerning 
Timbuctoo, and other places in the interior of 
Africa. Your knowledge of the language, 
customs, and commerce of that continent, give 
you advantages which few possess upon this 
ground ; and I assure you, every kind of in* 
formation will be greedily received here, con- 
cerning those regions ; especially that which 



COMMERCE OF THE INTERIOR. 



relates to their commerce, civilisation, customs* 
geography, and language. 

I request as a favour that you would write 
me as often as possible ; exclusive of the interest 
I take in all that relates to the politics and 
commerce of Africa, (particularly of the in- 
terior,) to hear of your own individual welfare, 
will give me the sincerest pleasure. 

I remain, my dear Sir, 

Your's very sincerely, 

J, WILLIS. 

No. 67, Harley-street. London, 
2d February, 1796. 

We have no letters from Mr. Park, since he 
left the river Gambia; but we have heard from 
others, that he had proceeded in safety above 
two-thirds of the journey. We expect soon to 
hear of his return. If he succeeds, his fame 
and fortune will be worthy of envy. 



73 



LETTER VII. 

Emperor's March to Marocco. — Doubles the Customs 9 
Duties of Mogodor. — The Governor, Prince Abd El 
Melk, with the Garrison and. Merchants of Santa Cruz, 
ordered, to go to the Court at Marocco. — They cross 
the Atlas Mountains. — Description of the Country 
and Produce. — Dangerous Defile in the Mountains 
through which the Author passed. — Chasm in the 
Mountain. — Security of Suse from Marocco, originating 
in the narrow Defile in the Mountains of Atlas. — » 
Extensive Plantations of Olives. — Village of Ait 
Musie. — Fruga Plains. — Marocco Plains. — Fine 
Corn. — Reception at Marocco, and Audience with the 
Emperor. — Imperial Gardens at Marocco. — Prince 
Abd El MeWs magnificent Apparel, reprobated by the 
Sultan. — The Port of Santa Cruz, shut to the Com- 
merce of Europe, and the Merchants ordered to Mogo- 
dor. — The Prince banished to the Bled ShereefJ or 
Country of Princes, viz., Tafilelt, of the Palace at 
Tqfilelt. — Abundance of Dates. — Face of the Country- 
— Magnificent Groves of Palm or Date-trees* — Faith 
and Integrity of the Inhabitants of Tafilelt. — Imperial 
Gardens at Marocco. — Mode of Irrigation. — Attar of 
Roses, vulgarly called Otto of Roses [Attar being the Word 
signifying a Distillation.) — State of Oister Shells, on 
the Top of the Mountains of Sheshawa, between Mo- 
godor and Marocco, being a Branch of the Atlas. — 
Description of the Author's Reception on the Road from 
Marocco to Mogodor. — Of the Elgrored, or Sahara of 
Mogodor. 

TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. 

Santa Cruz, March 15, 1797. 
When the emperor Soliman proceeded from 
Fas with a numerous army to the south, he 
doubled the export and import duties at Mogo- 



7* 



JOURNEY OVER 



dor, viz., from nix to twelve per cent., payable in 
kind. Those of Santa Cruz remained as before, 
but so soon as his imperial majesty reached 
Marocco, he sent orders for the prince Abd El 
Melk, who is his nephew and governor of Santa 
Cruz, with the garrison, together with the mer- 
chants, to proceed to Marocco \ accordingly 
we all departed, the prince having first engaged 
a revered (fakeer) saint to accompany the army 
across the Atlas mountains, the fastnesses of 
which it appeared no army would be permitted to 
pass, without the protection of this fakeer. We 
departed about noon, and passed through the 
plains of the Arab province of Howara % a very 
fine country ; we pitched our tents at sunset, 
near a sanctuary, where we had all kinds of 
provisions sent to us, in great abundance : we 
continued our journey the following morning 
through the plains, and about the middle of the 
day we reached the foot of Atlas. 

This country abounds in extensive plantations 
of olives, almonds, and gum trees; some plants of 
the (Jhshook)gum ammoniac are here discovered. 
Vines producing purple grapes of an enormous 
size and exquisite flavour : (dergmu&e) th© Eu- 
phorbium plant is discovered in rocky parts of the 
mountains ; and great abundance of worm-seed 
and stick-liquorice. b The indigo plant (Enneel) 

a A migration from this tribe attacked and took the city 
of Assouan, in Egypt, some years ago. Vide Burckhardt's 
Travels in Nubia. 

h This root ahound* all over Suae, and i* called by the 
native* Ark Sum, i* c. the root of Su«e : the worra-s«ed 
h called sheh. 



THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 



75 



h found here; as are also pomegranates, of a 
large size and a most exquisitely sweet flavour, and 
oranges. Ascending the Atlas, after five hours' 
ride, we reached a table-land, and pitched our tents 
near a sanctuary. The temperature of the air is 
cooler here, and the trees are of a different cha- 
racter ; apples, pears, cherries, walnuts, apricots, 
peaches, plums, and rhododendrums, were the 
produce of this region. The next morning at 
five o'clock, the army struck their tents, and 
after ascending seven hours more, we met with 
another change in vegetation. Leguminous 
plants began to appear; pines of an immense 
size, ferns, the belute, a species of oak, the 
acorn of v/hich is used as food, and is preferred 
to the Spanish chesnut ; elms, mountain-ash, 
seedra and snobar, the two latter being a species 
of the juniper. After this we passed through 
a fine campaign country of four hours' ride : 
we were informed that this country was very po- 
pulous ; but our fakeer and guide avoided the 
habitations of men. We now began again to 
ascend these magnificent and truly romantic 
mountains, and in two hours approached partial 
coverings of snow. Vegetation here diminishes, 
and nothing is now seen but firs, whose tops 
appear above the snow; the cold is here in- 
tense ; and it is remarkable, that the pullets' 
eggs that we procured in the campaign country 
just described, were nearly twice the size of 
those of Europe. Proceeding two hours further, 
we came to a narrow pass, on the east side of 



76 



JOURNEY OVER 



which was an inaccessible mountain, almost per- 
pendicular, and entirely covered with snow ; and 
on the west, a tremendous precipice, of several 
thousand feet in depth, as if the mountain had 
been split in two, or rent asunder by an earth- 
quake : the path is not more than a foot wide, 
over a solid rock of granite. Here the whole 
army dismounted, and many prostrated in 
prayer, invoking the Almighty to enable them 
to pass in. safety ; but, however, notwithstand- 
ing all possible precaution, two mules missed 
their footing, and were precipitated with their 
burdens into the yawning abyss. There is no 
other pass but this, and that of Belawin, which 
is equally dangerous for an army ; so that the 
district of Suse, which was formerly a kingdom, 
might be defended by a few men, against an in- 
vading army from Marocco of several thou- 
sands, by taking a judicious position at the 
southern extremity of this narrow path and tre- 
mendous precipice, which is but a few yards in 
length. Proceeding northward through this de- 
file, we continued our journey seven hours, 
(gradually descending towards the plains of 
Fruga, a town of considerable extent, distant 
about fifteen miles from the mountains.) Pro- 
ceeding two hours further, making together 
nine hours' journey, the army pitched their 
tents, and we encamped on another table-land* 
on the northern declivity of Atlas, at the 
entrance of an immense plantation of olives* 
about a mile west of a village, called Ait Musie, 



THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 



77 



a most luxuriant and picturesque country. The 
village of Ait Musie contains many Jews, whose 
external is truly miserable ; but this appearance 
of poverty is merely political, for they are a 
trading and rich people, for such a patriarchal 
country. The olive plantations at this place, 
and in many other parts of this country, do 
honour to the agricultural propensity of the em- 
peror Muley Ismael, who planted them. They 
cover about six square miles of ground ; the 
trees are planted in right lines, at a proper dis- 
tance ; the plantation is interspersed with open- 
ings, or squares, to let in the air. These openings 
are about a square acre in extent. 

In travelling through the various provinces of 
South and West Barbary, these extensive plan- 
tations of olives are frequently met with, and 
particularly throughout Suse. It appeared that 
they were all planted by the emperor Muley 
Ismael, whose indefatigable industry was pro- 
verbial. Wherever that warrior (who was always 
in the field) encamped, he never failed to em- 
ploy his army in some active and useful oper- 
ation, to keep them from being devoured by the 
worm of indolence, as he expressed it. Accord- 
ingly wherever he encamped, we meet with these 
extensive plantations of olive trees, planted by 
his troops, which are not only a great ornament 
to the country, but produce abundance of fine 
oil. The olive plantations at Ras El Wed, near 
Terodant in Suse, are so extensive, that one 
may travel from the rising to the setting sun 



78 



DESCENT FROM THE ATLAS. 



under their shade, without being exposed to the 
rays of the effulgent African sun. 

We remained encamped at Ait Musie c three 
days, amusing ourselves by hawking with the 
prince's falconer, and hunting the antelope. 
Early in the morning of the fourth day, we de- 
scended the declivity of the Atlas, and travelling 
eight hours, we reached the populous town of 
Fruga, situated in the same extensive plain 
wherein the city of Marocco stands. From this 
village to Marocco, a day's journey, the country 
is one continued corn-field, producing most 
abundant crops of wheat and barley, the grain 
of which is of an extraordinary fine quality, 
and nearly twice the size of the wheat produced 
at the Cape of Good Hope. 

On our approach to the metropolis, the em- 
peror sent the princes that were at Marocco to 
welcome the prince Abd El Melk. They were 
accompanied by 100 cavalry, who saluted our 
prince with the Moorish compliment of running 
full gallop and firing their muskets. These 
princes, who were relations of Abd El Melk, son 
of Abd Salam, shook hands with him respectively, 
and then kissed their own. This is the salutation 
when friends of equal rank meet. We entered 
the city of Marocco at the Beb El Mushoir, 
which is the gate situated near the palace and 
place of audience, towards the Atlas mountains. 
The next day I had an audience of the em- 

c Here the priace sent couriers to the emperor, to an- 
nounce his approach; 



OTTO OF ROSES. 



79 



peror, who received me in (the Jenan En neel) 
the garden of the Nile, a small garden adjoining 
the palace, containing all the fruits and plants 
from the Nile d of Egypt. The (worde jillelly) 
Tafilelt-rose grows in great luxuriance in this 
garden, resembling that of China ; the odour is 
very grateful and strong, perfuming the air to 
a considerable distance. This is the rose, from 
the leaves of which the celebrated {attar el 
worde) u e. distillation of roses is made, vul- 
garly called in Europe, otto of roses. 

The emperor declared the port of Santa Cruz 
to be shut ; and that no European merchant of 
any nation should continue there. He gave me 
my choice, either to quit the country, or establish 
a house at Mogodor. I entreated a short time 
to consider which I should choose, which was 
readily granted. 

The prince Abd El Melk was magnificent in 
his apparel, the Emperor dressed very plain ; 
these were two incompatible propensities, the 
latter had probably heard of the prince's ex- 
travagance in this respect, and chose to moralise 
with him by comparing his own parsimonious and 
plain apparel to his costly attire ; and insinuating 
that the iron buckle to his belt answered every 
purpose of a gold one, reprimanded the prince 
for the extravagance and vanity of his wardrobe, 
and acquainted his Highness that the port of 

d This orthography, Nile, has been imported from France ; 
with the French it is pronounced as we pronounce Neel ; 
and this is the intelligible pronunciation in Africa. 



8() COMMERCE OF SANTA CRUZ ABOLISHED. 



Santa Cruz should no longer remain open to 
European commerce. The prince remained some 
days after this notification at Maroco ; an annual 
stipend was allowed him and he was sent to (the 
Bled Shereefi i. e. the country of princes, viz.) 
Tafllelt, and had apartments allotted him in the 
Imperial Palace at that place, which is very mag- 
nificent and extensive. It is built of marble 
collected for the most part from the Kaser 
Farawan or ruins of Pharaoh, an ancient city now 
in ruins, contiguous to the sanctuary of Muley 
Dris Zerone, east of the city of Mequinas, on 
the western declivity of the Atlas ; this marble 
was transported across the mountains of Atlas 
on camels, a distance of fifteen journies to Tafllelt. 
The inhabitants of this part of Bled Eljereed 
live principally on dates, which abound so in 
this country that the fruit of one plantation is 
commonly sold for 1000 dollars, producing 1500 
camel load of dates, or 4500 quintals ; there are 
thirty-five species of this rich fruit, of which the 
butube is unquestionably the best and the most 
wholesome ; it is rich, of a fine flavour, and sweet 
as honey : the buscre is also good ; but so dry 
and full of saccharine matter that it resembles a 
lump of sugar. Undoubtedly if this country were 
in the hands of Europeans they would extract 
sugar, perhaps as much as 1.501b. from a camel 
load of dates weighing 3001b. The adamoh is 
the date that is imported to this country ; it is 
the best for keeping, but at Tafllelt they use it 
only for the cattle, considering it an unwhole- 
some kind and heavy of digestion. The country 



DESCRIPTION OF TAFILELT. 81 



from the eastern declivity of Atlas to Tafilelt, 
and to the eastward of Tafilelt, even unto 
Seginmessa is one continued barren plain of a 
brown sandy soil impregnated with salt, so that 
if you take up the earth it has a salt flavour ; the 
surface also has the appearance of salt, and if 
you dig a foot deep, a brackish water ooses up. 
On the approach to within a day's journey of 
Tafilelt, however, the country is covered with 
the most magnificent plantations and extensive 
forests of the lofty date, exhibiting the most 
elegant and picturesque appearance that nature, 
on a plain surface, can present to the admiring 
eye. In these forests there is no underwood, 
so that a horseman may gallop through them 
without impediment. Wheat is cultivated near 
the river, and honey is produced of an exquisite 
quality. The faith and honour of the (filelly) 
inhabitants of Tafilelt is proverbial ; a robbery 
has not been known within the memory of man ; 
they use neither locks nor keys, having no need 
of either ! 

Having had my audience of leave of the Em- 
peror, I prepared to proceed to Mogodor, but 
before I describe the country through which we 
passed thither, it may not perhaps be uninterest- 
ing to give some account of the Imperial 
gardens at Marocco, which are three, the Jenan 
Erdoua, the Jenan El Afta, and the Jenan 
En neel : the last is confined to plants brought 
from the Egyptian Nile. The Jenan ElAfia, and 
the Jenan Erdoua, contain oranges, citrons, vines, 



82 IMPERIAL GARDENS AT MAROCCO. 

figs, pomegranates, water and musk melons, 
all of exquisite flavour. The orange and fig 
trees are here as large as a middling sized 
English oak. Roses are so abundant at Ma- 
rocco that they grow every where, and have 
a most powerful perfume, insomuch that one 
rose scents a large room ; all other flowers are 
in abundance, and many that are nursed with 
care in English hot-houses are seen in the Ma- 
rocco plains growing spontaneously. These 
gardens, as well as others throughout the 
country, are watered by the Persian or Arabian 
wheel, with pitchers fixed to it, which dis- 
charge the water into a trough or tank ; as the 
pitchers rise and turn over their contents into 
this tank, the water is communicated to the 
garden and inundates the plants. Departing 
from Marocco to Mogodor, the first day's 
journey is through the plains of Sheshawa, a 
fine campaign country abounding in corn ; the 
mountains of Sheshawa, which are higher than 
any in Great Britain, have strata of oyster and 
other shells at the top of them. We encamped 
at the foot of these mountains ; I had the 
curiosity to examine the depth of these strata 
of shells, and found them several feet deep, and 
extending all the way down the mountains. 
The rivers Sheshawa and Wed Elfees water 
these plains. The next day's journey brought us 
to a sanctuary, where we met very good enter- 
tainment, that is, such as the country affords, 
plenty of good provisions and hospitable treat- 



THE SAHARA OF MOGODOR. 



83 



ment. The next evening we encamped at a place 
called Dar El Hage Croomb, a very picturesque 
situation, where we were hospitably entertained j 
the Sheik coming to drink tea with me, related 
the history of his ancestors and traced his 
descent through many generations of warriors, 
whose dextrous management of the lance was 
the burden of the story. The next day, after 
travelling about six hours, we arrived at the 
extremity of the productive country, and entered 
El Grored, or the desert of sandy hills, which 
divide the rocky peninsula of Mogodor, from 
the cultivated land ; this Sahara consists of loose 
sand-hills very fatiguing to the horses, and 
although not more than three miles in width, 
we were an hour and a half in crossing them, 
before we entered the gate of Mogodor. 



S4 



LETTER VIII. 

FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. 

Harley-Street, London, 
My Dear Sir, 12th December, 1797. 

I thank you warmly for your intelligence con- 
cerning the interior of Africa, and beg you will 
continue to favour me with all the information 
you can collect upon this subject. Mr. Park 
has been almost as far as Jinnie, but did not 
reach Timbuctoo ; he is now on his way to 
England, in an American ship, via America. 
We are anxious for his arrival, which may be 
expected in the course of the present month j 
and all the Africani are extremely curious to 
hear the detail of his most interesting journey, 
which we hope will produce some authentic 
knowledge, of a considerable part of those 
regions, that have hitherto baffled all the ardour 
and energy of European enquiry, though they 
have always excited the curiosity of the most 
eminent and enlightened men, both in past and 
present times. 

I thank you also for the commercial intel- 
ligence you have sent me. 

Do you know whether the emperor of Ma- 
rocco has any collection of books ? If he has, 
probably some ancient books, of great value, 
might be found among them. 



TIMBUCTOO CHARACTER. 



85 



I should consider it as a very great obligation 
if you could procure, and send me any book or 
manuscript in the character and language of 
Timbuctoo. We are informed that, besides 
the Arabic, they have a character of their own, 
perfectly different. 

I remain, my dear Sir, 
Sincerely your's, 

J. WILLIS. 



Extract of a Letter to Mr, Jackson, from His Excellency 
J, M. Matra, British Envoy to Marocco, fyc. 

Tangier, November 8, 1797. 
I have not yet received any answer from Sir 
Joseph Banks to the letter from you, which I 
sent to him. Should you be able to obtain any 
information from Timbuctoo % or of the interior 
of this country, which would gratify one's curi- 
osity, I will be very thankful for a slice of it. 

I am ever, dear Jackson, 
Most faithfully your's, 
JAMES M. MATRA. 

* All my information respecting Timbuctoo, will be found 
in Jackson's Account of Marocco, Chapter XIII. 



86 



LETTER IX. 

Custom of visiting the Emperor on his Arrival at Marocco. 

— Journey of the Merchants thither on that occasion. — 
No one enters the imperial Presence without a Present. 

— Mode of travelling. — The Commercio. — Imperial 
Gardens at Marocco. — Audience of the Sultan. — 
Amusements at Marocco. — Visit to the Town of 
Lepers. — Badge of Distinction worn by the Lepers. — 
Ophthalmia at Marocco. — Its probable Cause. — Immense 
Height of the Atlas, east and south of Marocco* — Mode 
of visiting at Marocco. — Mode of eating. — Trades 
or Handicrafts at Marocco. — Audience of Business of 
the Sultan. — Present received from the Sultan. 

TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. 

Mogodor, 1788. 

The emperor having departed from Mequinas 
where he passed the winter, to Marocco, his 
summer residence, it becomes an incumbent 
duty for all loyal subjects, to pay their respects 
to him. All the bashaws of provinces, south of 
the river Morbeya, which divides the northern 
part of his dominions from the southern, as well 
as all the alkaids or governors of towns and dis- 
tricts under the authority of the bashaws of the 
provinces, are expected to show their loyalty, by 
obtaining permission to present themselves to the 
imperial presence ; when they give an account of 
the state of the district which they respectively 



PRESENTATION AT COURT. 



87 



govern. The bashaw of each province communi- 
cates with the emperor, and determines which 
of the alkaids a shall have the honour of presenting 
themselves. On these occasions, that is, when the 
emperor comes to Marocco, it is customary for the 
merchants of Mogodor to perform the journey to 
the metropolis b of the south, and to present his 
imperial majesty with a present ; indeed, it is 
not the etiquette of this court for any one to 
demand an audience (which the lowest subject 
in the realm may claim) without being prepared 
to present something; so that the poor may 
have an audience by presenting half a dozen 
eggs, or any similar trifle, such as some fruit or 
flowers ; but no one enters the imperial presence 
(khawie, as they term it, L e.) empty-handed. 
The routine is this : The European merchants, 
together with the house of Guedalla and Co., 
who are native Jews, are called el commercio ; 
the commercio, therefore, solicit the honour of 
presenting themselves to the emperor, to offer 
their congratulations on his arrival ; this is 
acceded to, and the minister, who is deno- 
minated the talb cadics, a term designating a 
man who disperses orders and communications 
to every one, writes a letter to the commercio, 

a In each province, or bashawick. there are several 
alkaids or governors of districts. 

b The city of Fas is the metropolis of the north, as Ma- 
rocco is of the south. Mequinas is the court town of the 
north, and resembles the Hague, where few reside but such 
as are employed in the service of the crown. 



88 ENCAMPMENT IN THE EMPEROR'S GARDEN. 

expressive of the emperor's disposition to see 
them, and requesting them to repair to his 
presence : a guard is given by the alkaid of 
Mogodor, and a present ought to be selected 
of such articles as are not to be bought at 
the markets of the country. A present con- 
sisting of such articles, previously ordered 
from Europe, and judiciously selected, is better 
calculated to gratify the emperor, than ten 
times the value injudiciously collected. The 
merchants accordingly prepared themselves to 
proceed to Marocco ; some rode mules, some 
horses, for there are no carriages in this coun- 
try ; and every individual had his tent and 
servants with him. We travelled three days 
through a fine country, and reached the city 
of Marocco the fourth day, in the afternoon, 
travelling eight hours each day, at the rate of 
four miles an hour. On our approach to the city, 
we sent an express to the talb cadus, who, by the 
imperial order, appropriated the emperor's gar- 
den, jinnen el afia, for our reception, the pavilion 
in which was appropriated to our service ; we 
preferred, however, in this delightful climate, 
sleeping in our tents, which we were permitted 
to pitch in this beautiful garden. We dined in 
the coba, or pavilion. The (talb cadus) minister 
paid us a visit, to say that the emperor requested 
we would take the following day to rest from our 
journey, and at eight o'clock on the following 
morning, he would receive us ; the present was 
accordingly prepared, which was carried by 



AUDIENCE OF THE EMPEROR. 89 



four-and-twenty men ; every article (the bulky 
ones excepted) being enveloped in a Barcelona 
silk handkerchief. The emperor was in the 
(m'ushoir) place of audience, on that side of the 
city which faces the mountains of Atlas. At our 
presentation we did not prostrate ourselves, but 
bowed, in the European manner ; the emperor 
said, bono el commercio, a Spanish phrase which 
he uses in interviews with Europeans, and which 
is equivalent to his saying, you are welcome, 
merchants. To this we replied, Allah iberk 
dmer seedi, God bless the life of my master. 
The emperor asked if we were recovered from 
the fatigue of our journey, and was quite 
affable ; he then said, communicate with the 
efFendi c , and whatever you want shall be granted 
to you; for I am disposed to encourage and 
(amel el k'here) to do good to my merchants. 
The master of the audience then came to us, 
and signified that we might depart ; we made 
our obeisance, and returned to our habitation. 
This was the audience of introduction, which is 
always short ; the second audience is for busi- 
ness ; and the third is the audience of departure. 
We remained encamped in the imperial garden 
a fortnight before we had another audience ; in 
the mean time we amused ourselves in riding 
about the country, and in visiting some of the 
most respectable inhabitants, among whom was 

c This word was used by the seed, or emperor, in the 
presumption that it is understood by Europeans ; but cadus 
is the Arabic term. 



90 lepers' town, near marocco. 



the cadus, who has a noble mansion, replete with 
every convenience, and a garden in the centre 
of it. The rooms of this house were long and 
narrow, with a pair of high doors in the centre 
of the room, through which alone the light is 
admitted ; the floors were paved with small 
glazed tiles, about two inches square, very 
neatly fitted, and of different colours ; the walls 
were the same, a mode of building which in this 
warm climate imparts a grateful coolness; the 
ceilings are painted in the Araberque style, with 
brilliant colours. The roofs are of terras, and flat, 
having an insensible declivity, just sufficient to 
give the rain that falls a course, which falling 
into the pipes, is received in the (mitfere) a sub- 
terraneous cistern, which supplies the family 
with water the whole year, till the rainy season 
returns again. 

There is near to the walls of Marocco, 
about the north-west point, a village, called 
(Deshira el Jed dam) i. e. the Village of Lepers. 
I had a curiosity to visit this village ; but I was 
told that any other excursion would be prefer- 
able ; that the Lepers were totally excluded 
from the rest of mankind ; and that, although 
none of them would dare to approach us, yet 
the excursion would be not only unsatisfactory 
but disgusting. I was, however, determined 
to go ; I mounted my horse, and took two 
horse-guards with me, and my own servant. 
We rode through the Lepers' town ; the inhabit- 
ants collected at the doors of their habitations, 



APPEARANCE OF THE LEPERS. 91 



but did not approach us ; they, for the most 
part, showed no external disfiguration, but were 
generally sallow ; some of the young women 
were very handsome ; they have, however, a 
paucity of eyebrow, which, it must be allowed, 
is somewhat incompatible with a beauty ; some 
few had no eyebrows at all, which completely 
destroyed the effect of their dark animated eyes. 
They are obliged to wear a large straw hat, with 
a brim about nine inches wide ; this is their badge 
of 'separation, a token of division between the clean 
and unclean, which when seen in the country, 
or on the roads, prevents any one from having 
personal contact with them. They are allowed 
to beg, and accordingly are seen by the side of 
the roads, with their straw hat badge, and a 
wooden bowl before them, to receive the charity 
of passengers, exclaiming (attanie m'ta Allah) 
" bestow on me the property of God ;" (kulshie 
m'ta Allah) " all belongs to God!" reminding 
the passenger that he is a steward of, and ac- 
countable for the appropriation of his property ; 
that he derives his property from the bounty 
and favour of God. When any one gives them 
money, they pronounce a blessing on him ; as 
(Allah e zeed hherih) " may God increase your 
good," &c. The province of Haha abounds in 
lepers \ and it is said that the Arganic d oil, 

d This oil, which is excellent, and generally used for 
frying fish, should be thus prepared, according to the 
learned Doctor Barata, who was pensioned physician to the 
Commercio of Mogodor, by which preparation it becomes 



92 PRESUMED ALTITUDE OF THE 



which is much used in food throughout this 
picturesque province, promotes this loathsome 
disease ! 

The chain of Atlas, east of Marocco, conti- 
nually covered with snow, gives a pleasant cool- 
ness to the air of the city, in the summer 
season, particularly in the morning and evening ; 
the coolness is generally said, however, to pro- 
duce ophthalmia. 6 These mountains are im- 
mensely high, and their magnitude makes them 
appear not more than five miles from the city. 
It is, however, a day's journey to the foot of 
them, after which the ascent is so gradual, that 
it takes two days more to reach the snow. This 
part of the chain of Atlas, east of the city of 
Marocco, is seen at sea, twenty miles west of 
Mogodor, which latter place is about 120 miles 
from Marocco ; it is 35 miles from the city of 



perfectly wholesome, and deprived of any leprous or other 
bad quality : Take a quart of Argan oil, and put in it a large 
onion cut in slices ; when it boils add a piece of crumb of 
bread, equal in size to an onion, then let it boil a few 
minutes more, take it off, let it cool, and strain the oil through 
a sieve, and bottle it for daily use. 

e Ophthalmic disorders prevail among the Jews of Ma- 
rocco, but are seldom seen among the Moors. The Jews 
live in great filth at Marocco ; the dung-hills and ruins are 
in some places as high as the houses. The Muhamedan 
doctrine does not allow the Moors to neglect personal 
cleanliness, which, among these people, is a cardinal virtue ; 
and this, I presume, is the cause of their being, in a great 
measure, exempt from ophthalmia, whereas the Jews, on the 
contrary, are generally affected with it. 



MOUNTAINS OF ATLAS. 



93 



Marocco to the foot of Atlas ; and it is two 
days' journey from the foot of Atlas to the 
snow, which constantly covers the summit of 
these immense mountains. They are thus seen 
at a distance of 245 miles : 

20 miles from land at sea. 
120 do. Mogodor to Marocco. 
35 do. Marocco to the foot of 

the mountains. 
70 do. the foot of Atlas to the 

snow. 

seen at 245 miles distance. 

In this calculation, the direct distance in the 
ascent of the mountain, is less than the travelling 
distance ; but without taking notice of the dis- 
tance from the border of the snow to the 
summit of this lofty mountain, which is said to 
be another day's journey, the one may balance 
the other : w-e may therefore calculate 70 miles 
as the direct longitudinal distance, although I 
am persuaded it is much more from the foot 
to the summit of that part of the Atlas which 
is visible at sea. 

H. T. Colebrooke, Esq., in a paper inserted 
in the Asiatic Transactions, vol. xii. asserts, 
that it requires an elevation of 28,000 feet, for 
an object to be visible at the distance of 200 
geographical miles ; now 245 English miles are 
equal to 2114- geographical miles ; consequently, 
if Mr. Colebrooke be correct, the summit of 
Atlas, east of Marocco and Dimenet, which is 



94 



ALTITUDE OF THE ATLAS. 



seen at a distance of 211-1 geographical miles, 
must be 29,610 feet high, or above five miles and 
a half. 

Again, the chain of Atlas in Lower Suse, 
which lies east of Elala, and which is constantly 
covered with snow, is situated three days' 
journey, horse travelling, east-south-east from 
Elala, in Lower Suse ; Elala is three days' 
journey from Santa Cruz, horse travelling, 
making together 180 miles : add for distance 
from the foot of the Elala mountains to the 
snow, 60 miles, and the Atlas in Lower Suse 
will be seen at the distance of 240 miles, or 
207 geographical miles. 



foot of the Atlas mountains, in the f 180 miles. 



of the Elala mountains to the > 60 
snow - - - ) 



being seen at a distance of - ) 

Or 207 geographical miles, must have an alti- 
tude, of 28,980 feet. 

On the north side of the city of Marocco is 
a gate called Beb El Khwnmes, and near it is 
held, every Thursday, a market called soke El 
Khummes ; at which immense quantities of 
horses, camels, mules, asses, oxen, sheep, goats, 
wheat and barley are sold ; oils, gums, almonds, 
dates, raisins, rigs, bees' wax, honey, skins 




Add for distance from the foot 



So that the Atlas in Lower Suse, 




PRICES OF ARTICLES AT MAROCCO. 95 

&c. &c. &c. ; also, slaves, male and female. 
Such a horse as would cost in London 50/., sells 
here for 50 dollars ; a good mule sells for the 
same, viz. 50 dollars ; a bull, 12 dollars ; a 
cow, 15 dollars ; sheep, a dollar and a half, 
each ; a goat, a dollar. Very fine large grained 
wheat, which increases one-fifth in the grinding, 
sells at one dollar per saa, or about half a dollar 
per Winchester bushel. The slaves are conducted 
through the market by the auctioneer (delel), who 
exclaims, occasionally, (khumseen reeal aal zee- 
ada, i. e.) " 50 dollars on the increase," till he 
finds no one will advance ; when he goes to the 
owner and declares the price offered ; the owner 
then decides if he will sell or not ; if he sells, 
the money is paid immediately, but if not, he 
takes his slave away with him, and tries him 
again the next market-day, or waits in expect- 
ation that this wretched article of trade will rise 
in value. 

A stranger passing through Marocco would 
consider it an irregular miserable town ; but 
the despotic nature of the government induces 
every individual to secrete or conceal his opu- 
lence ; so that the houses of the gentry are sur- 
rounded with a shabby wall, often broken or out 
of repair, at a considerable distance from the 
dwelling house, which does not appear, or is 
invisible to the passenger. Some of these houses 
are very handsome, and are furnished with 
couches, circular cushions to sit on, and other 
furniture, in all the luxury of the East. When a 



96 



CUSTOMS AT MAROCCO. 



visitor or a guest enters one of these houses, 
slaves come in with perfumes burning, in com- 
pliment to the visitor. Coffee and tea are then 
presented in small cups, having an outer cup to 
hold that which contains the liquor, instead 
of a saucer ; the sugar being first put into the 
pot. The coffee or tea being poured out, already 
sweetened with sugar, a negro boy generally 
takes his station in one corner of a spacious 
room, pours out the liquor, and sends it to the 
guests by another boy. The tea table is a 
round stand, about twelve inches from the 
ground, at which the tea boy sits down on a 
leather cushion, cross legged. 

When dinner is served, the food is in a large 
dish or bowl, on a round stand, similar to that 
above described ; three, four, or more sit round 
it ; a servant comes to the company with a 
ewer and napkin ; each person wash their right 
hand, and eat with their fingers ; in the higher 
circles, rose-water is used instead of plain ; if 
soup is served, they eat it with wooden spoons ; 
in this respect the emperor himself sets them 
the example, who reprobates the use of the 
precious metals with food. 

When the Moors sit down to eat ; high and 
low, rich and poor, (for I have partaken of food 
with all ranks, from the prince to the plebeian,) 
they invariably invoke God's blessing, previous 
to the repast, and offer thanks at the conclusion. 
Their first grace is, invariable, short, and com- 
prehensive ; bis'm illak, " In the name of God." 



CUSCAS0K. 



97 



The after grace is, El Ham'd u lillak, " Praise 
be to God." 

A very excellent dish is generally eat in this 
country, called cuscasoe ; it is made with flour, 
granulated into particles the size of a partridge 
shot, which is put over a steamer, till the steam 
has sufficiently passed through it, so as to pro- 
duce the effect of boiling ; it is then taken off, 
broken, and returned to steam a second time ; 
in the meantime, a chicken or some meat is 
boiling in the saucepan, under the steamer, with 
onions, turnips, and other vegetables ; when the 
cuscasoe has been steamed a second time, it is 
taken off, coloured with saffron, and mixed with 
some butter, salt, and pepper, and piled up in 
a large round bowl or dish, garnished with the 
chicken or meat and vegetables. This is a very 
nutritious, wholesome, and palatable dish, when 
well cooked. It is in high estimation with 
the Arabs, Moors, Brebers, Shelluhs, and Ne- 
groes. When they sit down to eat, each person 
puts his fingers into the dish before him ; and 
in respectable society, it is remarkable how 
dextrously they jerk the food into their mouths, 
which never come into contact with their 
hands ; so that this mode of eating is scarcely 
objectionable, certainly not obnoxious, as some 
travellers have represented it ; but who probably 
had associated with the lower ranks of society, 
who, indeed, are not particular in these ob- 
servances. 

All kind of trades are carried on at Marocco : 



98 



PREPARATION OF LEATHER. 



jewellers, goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, 
tanners, &c. &c. ; but that which is the most 
honourable, is a shoe-maker, because Muhamed 
himself was one. At Mequinas they make ex- 
cellent shoes, of leather impervious to water, 
for Is. 8d. per pair. 

The time now approached for our audience 
of business, and we had represented to the 
Talb Cadus, that the export duties on some 
articles were too heavy, viz. on wax, almonds, 
and olive oil ; also on certain imports, viz. iron, 
steel, and Buenos Ayres hides ; but no diminu- 
tion was obtained, except in the duty of bees' 
wax. The emperor gave hopes of an export- 
ation of grain, and desired us to write to Europe 
for ships to come and load wheat, barley, Indian 
corn, caravances, beans, lentils, and millet. We 
were favourably received ; the emperor asked 
several questions respecting Europe, and in- 
formed us we should return to Mogodor in a 
few days. Three days after this audience we 
were ordered to meet the emperor in the Jenan 
En neel, where we had our audience of leave, 
and the emperor gave each of us a fine horse, 
chosen by ourselves out of his own stable ; and 
we took our leave and departed for Mogodor 
the following evening. We slept encamped un- 
der the magnificent and lofty date trees, in the 
neighbourhood of the city, the first night. 



99 



LETTER X. 

FROM MR. WILLIS TO MR. JACKSON. 

Harley-street, London, 
My dear Sir, September 10, 1798. 

I write to acknowledge the receipt of your 
favour. I know no man better qualified than 
yourself for the station of an African consul ; 
and really think, that to assist you in obtaining 
such a post, is to render service to my country, 
as well as to yourself. Your information con- 
cerning the interior of Africa, and especially 
concerning Timbuctoo, appears to me to be 
more accurate, authentic, and extensive than 
that of any other person I have met with ; con- 
siderably more so than that of any of the cor- 
respondents of the African association. Mr. Park, 
of whose return you are informed, has brought 
home no addition to the stock of our knowledge 
of that important place ; though I think his 
geographical communications are highly valu- 
able, particularly as they regard the river and 
course, &c. of the Niger. This celebrated river 
will, I think, in time be the channel of com- 
munication between Europe and the interior of 
Africa. It seems to penetrate into that con- 
tinent, in its widest and most interesting part ; 
if it should be navigable through its entire 
course, we might hereafter make it the instru- 
ment of the most important discoveries, and the 
channel of the most valuable commerce. I 



100 



THE NIGER, 



shall be much obliged to you for information 
concerning this river, particularly as to its 
termination. I suspect it discharges itself into 
some interior sea or vast lake, like the Caspian ; 
unless, like the Burrampooter, after various and 
extensive windings, it may return towards its 
source, and fall into the Atlantic. 

You will have heard of the landing of a 
French army in Egypt, under Buonaparte ; the 
French are enterprising, and if they should 
penetrate from the eastward, while we advance 
from the west, the interior of the African con- 
tinent may at length be laid open. 

I remain, my dear Sir, 
Your's sincerely, 

J. WILLIS. 



LOi 



LETTER XL 

FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. 

Henley-street, London, 
My dear Sir, June 10. 1800. 

I did not receive, till the l 2'2d November, your 
favour, dated 1st September last, for which I 
beg you to receive my best thanks. I have 
transmitted an extract of it to Lord Moira, Sir 
Joseph Banks, and to a friend of mine, who is 
a member of parliament, and has great influence 
with his majesty's ministers ; in order that he 
may lay it before the secretary of state, in such 
a manner as to draw his attention to it in the 
most impressive and effectual manner ; but I 
much fear that the pressure of the war, and 
its consequent effects ; the arrangements of 
finance, &c. will preclude their immediate sup- 
port to objects which they consider as of very 
subordinate importance. The time is certainly 
highly favourable for the cultivation of the 
friendship of the emperor, and of other Muha- 
medan sovereigns; now that the British arms 
have preserved the principal empire of the 
Moslems, by the victory at Aboukir, and the 
defence of Acre ; in consequence of which, 
Egypt has been recovered, and one of the 
sacred gates of the Caaba again opened to the 
Mussulman. This appears to be an event of 



102 COMMUNICATION WITH MECCA. 

the highest consideration to the Muhamedans of 
Africa, since it is by Grand Cairo, that the 
western pilgrims communicate with Mecca. 

I suppose you have received the narratives, 
published by Park and Browne, of their 
respective journies and discoveries in the in- 
terior of your continent ; they have done much, 
but much more still remains to be done; and 
above all, the discovery of Timbuctoo and its 
commercial relations. 

There is a captain Wild, now either at Tunis 
or Algiers, preparing himself for this journey, (as 
I am informed,) a man of intrepidity, judg- 
ment, and enterprise ; whom Sir Joseph Banks 
writes me, he hopes to engage in the employ- 
ment of the African association. 

I assure you that I consider you, as the only 
European that possesses any substantial and 
interesting information concerning that part of 
interior Africa, which we are most solicitous to 
investigate; and, therefore, set a high value 
upon whatever you are so good as to commu- 
nicate. I am also of opinion, that your plans 
may very probably be adopted by administra- 
tion, when the return of peace shall leave their 
minds at liberty to attend to it. 



103 



LETTER XII. 

FROM THE SAME TO THE SAME. 

Harley-street, London, 
My dear Sir, 5th May, 1801. 

I wrote you at considerable length on the 
1st of June last, and assure you that none of 
your letters, received prior to that date, have 
remained unanswered, I have now to acknow- 
ledge the receipt of your several favours, and 
beg you to accept my best thanks, for your very 
curious and valuable present of the gold ring 
from Wangara, which has been shown to several 
persons of great distinction, and even to the 
king himself. It is universally considered as a 
great curiosity ; and I have taken care to make 
it known that you are the person to whom I 
am indebted, for the first Wangarian jewel that 
has ever been seen in England. I have also 
shown your letter, containing your judicious 
opinions upon the course of the Niger 4 , and 
other geographical points, to Sir Joseph Banks 
and Major Rennell ; and have invariably re- 
presented you to them, and to others, as the 
person possessing eminently the best information 
concerning the interior of Africa; an object 
which draws at present the earnest attention, 
both of the learned and the great, and which 

* See Jackson's account of Morocco, last chapter. 



101 



GEOG R A PHI C A L OP IS I O X. 



our late victories in Egypt, render more pe- 
culiarly interesting. 

I think, with you, it is probable there is a 
communication by water between Jinnie and 
Egypt ; but I should rather imagine there is 
some large lake or mediterranean sea, like the 
Caspian, for instance, into which the Niger may 
discharge itself from the west, and a branch of 
the Nile from the east. This idea seems to 
reconcile the opinions of ancient geographers, 
with those resulting from modern discoveries. 
If we should be able to effect the complete con- 
quest of Egypt, and to retain that kingdom, 
much light will probably soon be acquired upon 
these interesting subjects. 



105 



LETTER XI1L 

Journey from Mogodor, to Rabat, to Mequinas, to the Sanc- 
tuary of Muley Dris Ze?'one in the Atlas Mountains, to 
the Ruins of Pharaoh, and thence through the Amorite 
Country to U Araich and Tangier. — Started from 
Mogodor with Bel Hage as my (Tabuk) Cook, ana 
Deeb as my (Mule Lukkerzana) Tent Master. — Ex- 
portation of Wool granted by the Emperor\ — Alcker- 
mute depopulated by the Plague. — Arabs, their Mode 
of hinting the Partridge. — Observations respecting the 
River Tansift. — J erf El Eudie, or the Jews' Pass. — 
Description of Sajffy, and its Port or Road. — Woladia 
calculated to make a safe Harbour. — Growth of To- 
bacco. — Mazagan described. — Azamor the Abode of 
Storks. — Saneet Urtemma a dangerous Country. — 
Dar El Beida, Fedalla, and Rabat described. — Mau- 
soleum of the Sultan Muhamed ben Abd Allah at Rabat. — 
Of Sheila, a Roman Town. — Of the Tower of Hassan. 

— Road of Rabat. — Productive Country about Rabat. 

— Salee. — The People inimical to Christians. — The 
Dungeon where they confined Christian Slaves. — Ait 
Zimurh, notorious Thieves. — Their Mode of Rob- 
bing. — Their Country disturbed with I Jons. — Arrival 
at Mequinas. — Some Account of that City and its im- 
perial Palace. — Ladies of Mequinas extremely beauti- 
ful. — Arrival at the renowned Sanctuary of Muley 
Dris Zerone. — Extraordinary and favourable Recep- 
tion there In) the Fakeers of the Sanctuary. — Slept in the 
Adytum . — Succour expected from the English in the Event 
of an Invasion by Bonaparte. — Prostration and Prayer 
?f Benediction by the Fakeers at my Departure from the 



106 



Samtuary. — Ruins of Pharaoh near the Sanctuary. — ~ 
Treasures found there. — Ite Amor. — The Descendants 
of the Ancient Amorites. — Character of these People. 

— Various Tribes of the Berebbers of Atlas. — El Kas- 
sar Kabeer. — Its Environs, a beautiful Country. — 
'Forest of UAraich. — Superior Manufacture of Gold 
Thread made at Fas 9 as well as Imitations of Amber. 

— Grand Entry of the British Ambassador into Tan- 
gier. — Our Ignorance of African Matters. — The 
Sultan's Comparison of the Provinces of his Empire to 
the various Kingdoms of Europe. 

TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. 
Dear Sir, Tangier, 8th August, 1801. 

My journey to meet His Excellency James 
M. Matra, the British ambassador to the Court 
of Marocco, was undertaken principally to obtain 
permission to ship a large quantity of wool which 
I had in my possession, the exportation of which 
had been recently prohibited. I thought I could 
not select a more seasonable time than when our 
ambassador was at court ; accordingly, I started 
from Mogodor (the morning after I dispatched 
two vessels for Europe) on the 4th June last, 
at four o'clock, P. M. My journey was first to 
Rabat ; thence, across the country, to Fas and 
Mequinas ; thence to the renowned and revered 
sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, on the de- 
clivity of the mountains of Atlas, east of Me- 
quinas ; thence to Kassar Faraxvan (the ruins 
of Pharaoh), and through the warlike province 
of the Ait Amor, to L'Araich, Arzilla, and to 
Tangier. 



JOURNEY TO RABAT. 



107 



I took with me two of the finest horses in the 
country, to ride alternately. Two mules and 
three camels carried my baggage, tents, &c. 
Muhamed of Diabet, commonly called Deeb, I 
engaged as tent-master ; this is the man that 
astonished Aly Bey El Abassy, when he shot 
the fish in the river, as recorded by that interest- 
ing traveller. I engaged a most excellent fellow 
as cook, a man who had performed many jour- 
nies in a similar capacity with the princes ; he 
was acquainted with the roads, the country, 
and the character of the people ; the camel- 
drivers and muleteers completed our party. We 
arrived at Tela at nine o'clock in the evening, 
being a journey of five hours. We remained at 
Tela the whole of the following day, and started 
on the 6th June at seven o'clock ; arrived, at 
ten o'clock, at Akkermute, a town in ruins, in 
the plains west of Jebbel El Heddeed (the 
iron mountains), which was depopulated by the 
plague about fifty years since. Passing through 
the plains of Akkermute, towards the river Ten- 
sift, we saw a party of Arabs hunting partridges ; 
we did not stop to see this novel sport, but I 
was informed that the dogs were directed by 
the huntsmen to the spot where the birds settled, 
which roused them ; they then pursued them 
again, and after rousing them several times with- 
out intermission, the birds become fatigued and 
exhausted by continual flying, and the dogs then 
run them down and seize on them. 

In six hour? from Akkermute, at four o'clock. 



108 



JOURNEY TO RABAT. 



P. M., we reached the river Ten sift, which 
brings its water from the Atlas, east of Marocco, 
meandering through the plains and passing about 
three miles north of that city. 

We pitched our tents under the walls of the 
(Luksebba) castle, on the south bank of the 
river. 

We started the next morning at six o'clock,, 
and travelling through a fine country, we came 
to a narrow pass on the declivity of a lofty 
mountain called Jerf El Eudie, a most picturesque 
country, and arrived at the port of SafTy at eleven 
o'clock. SafTy has no harbour, but a road where 
ships are obliged to put to sea whenever the 
south-wind blows ; the town was fortified when 
in possession of the Portuguese, and is situated 
in a declivity between two hills, so that during 
the rainy season the waters come down so rapidly 
that they sometimes overflow the lower apart- 
ments of the houses and commit considerable 
damage. On the 8th June we started from SafTy 
at nine o'clock, and arrived at the sanctuary of 
Seedi Cuscasoe at five o'clock, P. M. ; and pro- 
ceeding on, we reached El Woladia at nine, 
and pitched our tents. This place might be 
made a secure harbour for the whole British 
navy, by blowing up a rock which impedes the 
narrow passage at the entrance of a long and 
extensive bay. From hence we started at half- 
past five o'clock in the morning ; we proceeded 
northwards along the coast till eleven o'clock, 
when we reached the beautiful and abundant 



JOURNEY TO RABAT. 



109 



valley, the Woolga; travelling on through the 
country, leaving the sea to the left, we arrived 
at six o'clock at the Douar, (an encampment of 
Arabs,) called IVoled Aisah, i. e. " Sons of 
Jesus," situated in the productive province of 
Duquella. The environs of the Douar of Woled 
Aisah abound in plantations of tobacco, of a su- 
perior quality, equal to the Havannah. The next 
morning, viz. on the 10th June, we struck our 
tents at six o'clock, and travelling three hours 
we arrived, at nine, at the J erf el S offer (the 
Yellow Cliff) : three hours more brought us to 
Tet, and an hour more to Mazagan, which we 
reached at one o'clock. Mazagan is the Portu- 
guese name ; the Moorish name is El Burreja. 
This is a very strong place, having several stout 
bastions ; there is a magnificent (mitfere) cistern 
of water, built by the Portuguese, supported by 
many pillars of great strength of the Tuscan or- 
der. The water in the neighbourhood of Maza- 
gan is very salubrious ; this country is full of 
springs. The inhabitants have a good healthy 
colour, very different from the inhabitants of the 
plains of the province of Duquella, which being 
supplied by water from wells only, of from 100 
to 200 feet deep, have a sallow and sickly ap- 
pearance. It may, in Europe, appear extraordi- 
nary that the quality of water should produce 
such a manifest difference in the complexion of 
the inhabitants, but when we consider that these 
people drink no wine, spirits, or malt liquor, the 
paradox will immediately vanish. After viewing 



110 



JOURNEY TO RABAT. 



the mitfere, or cistern, and batteries at Mazagan, 
we mounted at four o'clock, and arrived at Aza- 
mor at seven o'clock P. M., pitched the tents in 
a large spacious fondaque, or caravansera, in 
the centre of the town. We were annoyed 
during the night by thousands of storks, the clut- 
tering of whose bills would not permit us to sleep. 
This town is in the centre of a beautiful country. 
On the 11th June, at noon, we pursued our 
journey, and reached Saneet Urtemma at eight 
o'clock P. M. This is a dangerous country, in- 
fested with robbers, who, from the undulating 
face of the country, have many modes of escape, 
we, therefore, retired into a solitary retreat, and 
lay on our arms, without sleep, all night. At 
six o'clock next morning, being the 12th June, 
we started, and arrived at Dar el Beida at twelve. 
Here 1 was hospitably entertained by the agents 
of the Spanish house of the Cinquo Gremos of 
Madrid, who were established here for the pur- 
pose of shipping corn to Spain. We left Dar 
el Beida, at half-past three, and reached Fe- 
dalla at half-past seven. This is a fine produc- 
tive country, abounding in grain as well as Dar 
el Beida. On the 13th we started at four 
o'clock, and reached El Mensoria at seven ; 
stopped and dined, mounted at ten A. M. and 
arrived at Rabat at seven o'clock, P. M. after a 
journey from Mogodor, of 80^. hours of actual 
travelling, or 242 English miles, a 

a Calculated at the rate of three miles an hour, including 
stoppages and refreshments. 



DESCRIPTION OF RABAT. 



Ill 



Rabat is the largest town on the coast of the 
empire, it is walled round ; its circumference is 
about four miles ; an aqueduct conveys abun- 
dance of water to the town from a distance of 
several miles. The mausoleum of the sultaji 
Muhamed, father to the present sultan Soliman, 
is in the town of Rabat, it is a neat building, sur- 
rounded by a colonade ; here is a lamp continually 
burning, and a muden b , who is a fakeer, is con- 
tinually proclaiming the omnipotence of God, 
and that Muhamed is the prophet. " La Allah, 
iha Allah, wa Muhamed rassul Allah. 39 There 
is a very strong battery towards the sea, at the 
mouth of the river, which is bomb proof. The 
city wall is high, and is strengthened by several 
bastions mounting cannon : towards the land, 
about a mile from Rabat, there is a spring, re- 
ported to have been discovered by the Romans, 
and near it is the Roman town of Sheila, which 
none but musulmen are permitted to enter. In 
it are said to be the tombs of two sultans, but 
most probably of Roman generals. Kettles or 
pans of coins are continually found by the people 
who dig the ground at this place, and the coins 
found are Roman. Some European travellers 
enhanced the price of these coins so much, by 
their eagerness to purchase them, that they of- 
fered more than double their intrinsic value, so 
that the Jews imitated them so well that they 

b The muden is the man who ascends the tower of the 
Mosque and announces prayer. 



DESCRIPTION OF RABAT. 



deceived even these antiquaries. There are se- 
veral mosques in this town, but that which at- 
tracts particularly the notice of travellers, is the 
sma Hassan, i. e. the tower of Hassan, situated 
about a mile from Sheila, on the south banks of 
the river Buregreg, so called, from its being in 
the province of Beny Hassan, it is an old tower 
built in a superior manner by an architect of 
Grenada, the same that built the tower at Ma- 
rocco, called Jamaa Lifenar, one at Timbuctoo, 
and that at Seville ; it is about 200 feet high, 
perfectly square, and a person may ride up to 
the top on horseback, having a gradual ascent, 
and seven chambers one above the other : the 
cement with which it is made is so hardened that 
no pickaxe can destroy it. It was represented 
to the sultan Muhamed that the apartments in 
this tower were the haunts of vice and immoral- 
ity, and the sultan ordered the floor or terras, 
by which visitors ascend, to be broken ; it was 
found, however, impossible to destroy it, where- 
fore the workmen were ordered to desist, and 
the entrance was blocked up with loose stones. 
This tower I ascended with my friend the 
Comte de Fourban, nephew to the duke de Cril- 
lon, who conducted the famous siege of Gibral- 
tar, and whose machinations were so admirably 
defeated by the immortal governor of that gar- 
rison, General Elliott, Lord Heathfield. The 
Comte had ruined his constitution by being im- 
molated in a dungeon in France, during the 
reign of Robespierre, where he remained during 



RABAT AND SALEE. 



113 



fifteen months, oftentimes seated on steps in 
water up to his ankles. The Comte was a very 
generous and liberal man, an emigrant French 
nobleman, protected by the British consul at the 
court of Morocco. The disorder contracted by 
ill usage and confinement in prison, brought on 
a disease which, after applying various remedies 
to no purpose, carried him off, and he died at 
Rabat. The house of the French consul and 
those of some other European consuls who for- 
merly resided here, are conveniently situated on 
the southern banks of the river Buregreg, which 
divides Rabat from Salee. Ships of one hundred 
tons, that do not draw much water, may pass the 
bar and load close to these houses ; but larger ves- 
sels must come to anchor in the offing, and take in 
their cargoes by boats. The country about Ra- 
bat and Salee is wonderfully abundant in all the 
finest grain, leguminous plants, fruits, vege- 
tables, and cattle ; the orange, lemon, Seville, 
or bitter orange, and citron plantations are here 
very extensive and extremely productive. Se- 
veral ships might be loaded here with oranges in 
October and November, before the gales of the 
latter half of December and the month of Janu- 
ary set in. One hundred fine large oranges may 
be had for a drahim, a silver coin worth 6d. ster- 
ling. The orange plantations of Rabat are of 
incalculable extent ; the trees are as large as a 
middling-sized oak ; the vineyards and cotton 
plantations are likewise most abundant ; and no- 
thing can exceed the good quality of the grapes* 



114 DUNGEON AT SAL EE. 

figs, oranges, citrons, apricots, peaches, and 
water-melons ; the quality of the latter is pecu- 
liarly sweet, they are called Dilla Seed Billa ; 
the seed of which might be advantageously 
transported to our new colony, the Cape of 
Good Hope. The vineyards of Rabat are very 
extensive ; the vines are cultivated in the Ara- 
bian system, on the ground, which is a light 
sandy soil : the immense numbers of turtle-doves 
that are in these vineyards is such, that a bad 
sportsman cannot fail killing a dozen or two at 
every shot ; they rise just before you in thou- 
sands, and the foulahs, or vine cultivators, ex- 
press their gratitude to the Christians who go to 
shoot them. These birds, from being unmo- 
lested, are so tame and so abundant, that they 
destroy an incalculable quantity of the best 
fruit. 

On the 14th, the Comte de Fourban accompa- 
nied me, and we crossed the river, in the ferry, 
to visit Salee. The inhabitants of this town are 
inimical to Christians : we viewed the subter- 
raneous cavern where the Sallee rovers formerly 
confined their Christian slaves : it resembled a 
mitfere or large subterraneous granary ; it had 
two grates to let in the air ; it appeared perfectly 
dry, but no one was in it. The Comte observed 
that it was far preferable to the prison where he 
was confined in France, during the reign or 
usurpation of Robespierre. The air of Salee 
and Rabat, and the adjacent country, is strongly 
perfumed, morning and evening, with the sweet 



LIONS OF AFRICA. 



115 



odour of the orange-flower, of which they make 
immense quantities of delectable comfits. 

On the morning of the 15th, we pursued our 
journey to Mequinas, passing through a very fine 
country, inhabited by a Kabyl of Berebbers, 
called Ait Zemurh. We halted, at four o'clock 

M. at a circular Douar of these Berebbers, in 
a fine campaign country. The next morning, at 
five o'clock, we struck the tents, and proceeded 
through a dangerous country, infested by artful 
robbers, and the occasional depredations of the 
lion and other wild beasts, whose roaring we 
heard at a distance. We saw several square 
buildings, which our guides informed us were 
built by the Berebbers, for the purpose of de- 
stroying the lion. The patient hunter will con- 
ceal himself in one of these buildings, which are 
about five feet by seven, and will wait whole 
days for an opportunity to get a shot at the lion : 
these noble beasts are here said to be the largest 
in all Africa. After travelling this day ten hours, 
we pitched our tents at another circular encamp- 
ment of the Zimurite Berebbers. These 
people drive in stakes and place thorny bushes 
round their encampment, eight feet high, and fill 
up the entrance every night with thorns, as the 
fiercest lions of Africa abound in the adjacent 
forests, and sometimes attack their habitations, 
accordingly they keep a large fire all night to 

c The Ziraurites, or Ait Zimure, are probably the de- 
scendants pf the Zemarites : for which see 1 Chron. i. 16. 



116 



BEREBBER ROBBERS. 



deter the lions and other wild beasts from ap- 
proaching. About two hours after midnight, 
my grey horse, who was an old campaigner, 
neighed and awoke us ; this gave the alarm, and 
my people were presently on the alert, and per- 
ceived two men approaching our tents, crawling 
naked along the ground, which was of the 
same colour with their bodies. We did not wish 
to take them, fearing that the people of the 
Douar would espouse the cause of their 
countrymen, but my people gave the alarm, 
and exclaimed " Erd abellek asas," i. e. " Be 
watchful, guards!" We then saw these marauders 
jump up, and run away as fast as they could ; 
keeping watch the rest of the night : we were 
advised to take no notice of this circum- 
stance. The people of Ait Zimurh are profes- 
sed robbers : they would not allow us to pitch 
our tents within their circular encampment, a 
privilege universally granted to strangers and 
travellers. I thought this very unhospitable ; 
being totally different from any thing I had 
ever before witnessed in this country, where 
hospitality generally exceeds all bounds. I have 
no doubt that the people of the Douar were in 
league with the robbers ; I considered my escape, 
the next day, when I was apprised of the dan- 
ger of the country I had confided in, quite pro- 
vidential, and I have no doubt but these people 
would delude any one that would trust to their 
honour : they reminded me of the ancient 
Africans, as described by Sallust, in the wars of 
Jugurtha. 



RUINS OF PHARAOH. 



117 



We struck our tents at rive o'clock, and tra- 
velled very fast to get out of these treacherous 
habitations ; for we learned that, the preceding 
night, Alkaid L' Hassan Ramy, a Negro cap- 
tain of the emperor's army, passed this Douar, 
and was robbed of his bridles, saddles, and tent 
equipage, with which the thieves made off, with- 
out being discovered. I afterwards met Alkaid 
I/Hassan Ramy at Mequinas ; and he appeared 
quite astonished that I should have escaped 
being robbed at the above Douar, calling the 
whole Kabyl a set of lawless thieves. On the 17tb, 
we started at five o'clock, and arrived at Mequi- 
nas at nine o'clock, performing the journey from 
Rabat to Mequinas in twenty-two hours, being 
sixty-six miles. The city of Mequinas is the court- 
town of the northern division of the empire : the 
imperial palace at this place is above two miles 
in circumference. At the corners are erected 
(Coba's) square buildings or pavilions, contain- 
ing one room up stairs, where the emperor fre- 
quently transacts business. This palace was built 
by the sultan Muley Ismael : it is very neat, and 
consists for the most part of moresque architec- 
ture ; the marble columns and other decorations 
were brought from (Kasser Farawari) the ruins 
of Pharaoh, about a day's journey to the east- 
ward. There is a superior garden of choice fruit 
within the wall which surrounds the palace, and 
in the latter are many elegant apartments, or- 
namented d-la-mauresque. The ladies of Me- 
quinas are so extremely handsome, that I can- 



118 



SANCTUARY OF MULEY DRIS. 



not say I saw one plain young woman, although 
I visited several families ; nay, I can say, without 
offence to truth, that I did not see one that was 
not comely and handsome. I was most hospi- 
tably entertained wherever I went. On the 
18th June, at eight o'clock A.M. we started 
for Fas ; when we had approached the latter 
city, we met a messenger, with the prince Muley 
Abds'alam's secretary, from the emperor to his 
excellency J. M. Matra, the British ambassador 
to the court of Marocco, who informed me that 
his excellency had just terminated his embassy, 
had waited for my arrival two days, and was on 
his return to Tangier. Presuming, therefore, 
that the ambassador had negociated my business 
for me, I turned to the north-east, travelled all 
day without halting, till eight o'clock in the 
evening, when we arrived at the renowned 
sanctuary c of Muley Dris Zerone, on the decli- 
vity of North Atlas ; a most magnificent, beau- 
tiful, and picturesque country, abounding in all 
the necessaries and luxuries of life. This sanc- 
tuary was never before, nor since, visited by any 
Christian. It was here that the standard of 
Muhamed was first planted in North-western 
Africa, by the fakeer and prince Muley Dris, the 
founder. A favourable combination of circum- 
stances, of which I availed myself, enabled me 
to procure not only an asylum, but a most hos- 
pitable and kind reception and entertainment in 

• The town, in the centre of which stands the sanctuary, 
contains about 5000 inhabitants. 



PRAYER FOR THE ENGLISH. 



119 



this renowned sanctuary ; and I actually slept 
in the Horem or Adytum itself, which honour I 
obtained by a present, appropriated to the cir- 
cumstance, and sent to the chief fakeer of the 
sanctuary, accompanied with some observations 
expressed in a manner which was agreeable 
to the holy fraternity. When I entered the 
Horem of this renowned sanctuary, where I 
slept alone, its silence reminded me of the si- 
lence of death, w r hich formed one of the ancient 
mysteries of Egypt. The chief of the fakeers 
met me in the portico, and cordially shook 
hands with me, calling me his brother. At this 
time there was a rumour that Bonaparte was 
preparing to invade the country ; and indeed he 
had intimated as much, the English were there- 
fore courted ; it was even hoped and expected 
by the emperor that chey would in such an 
event become his allies, and give him succour. 
The next morning, I gave the fakeer some wax 
candles accompanied with observations emblema- 
tical of the present, which was so favourably 
received, that no less than nine saints pros- 
trated themselves at the place of prayer, 
which is at the entrance of the town, as I 
passed out to pursue my journey, uttering with 
audible voices a (fdtha) prayer of benediction, 
invoking on me the protection of Almighty God, 
and a blessing on the English nation ; also that 
God would avert every danger from the em- 
bassy, and restore them in safety to their native 
land. I am perfectly aware that, in recording 



120 FAVOURABLE RECEPTION AT THE SANCTUARY. 

this extraordinary circumstance, persons who 
have visited this country, and have remarked 
the rancour that generally exists with the lower 
orders against Christians, may doubt my ve- 
racity, so unprecedented a circumstance it is for 
a Christian to be admitted into a Horem ! the 
most respected also and the most sacred in the 
empire ! My answer to such is, that the cir- 
cumstance is so incredible, that 1 should not 
have presumed to lay it before the British public, 
if I had not two most respectable witnesses, 
now living in West Barbary, who can and will 
corroborate my report ; these two men are Bel 
Hage, a Muselman, who had been the prince's 
cook, and who officiated as mine during the 
journey, and Muhamed, commonly called Deeb, 
of Diabet, a village near Mogodor, the same 
man whose dexterity Aly Bey, in his travels, al- 
ludes to, when he shot a fish in the river near 
Mogodor. 

Half an hour's journey after leaving the 
sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, and at the foot 
of Atlas, I perceived to the left of the road 
magnificent and massive ruins ; the country for 
miles around is covered with broken columns of 
white marble, the ruins appeared to be of the 
Egyptian, and massive style of architecture. 
There were still standing two porticos, about 
thirty feet high and twelve feet wide, the top of 
which was one entire stone. I attempted to 
take a view of these immense ruins, which have 
furnished marble for the imperial palaces at 



RUINS OF PHARAOH. 



Mequinas and at Tafilelt ; but I was obliged to 
desist, seeing some persons of the sanctuary fol- 
lowing the cavalcade. Pots and kettles of gold 
and silver coins are continually dug up from 
these ruins. The country, however, abounds 
in serpents, and we saw many scorpions under 
the stones that my conductor Deeb turned up. 
These ruins are said by the Africans to have 
been built by one of the Pharaohs : they are 
called " Kasser Farawan" i. e. the ruins of 
Pharaoh. d Here begins the territory of the 

d In reply to those learned sceptics who have studied 
books ; but not men, and the manners of different countries ; 
who believe nothing but what they have seen; and who say 
that Pharaoh never came so far west; I reply, that our know- 
ledge of African history is extremely imperfect. In fact, 
we now know as certainties, various articles of which no 
record is to be found in any ancient writer ; for the affairs of 
Africa, which, of late, have so deservedly excited the atten- 
tion of the learned, were as little known to the ancients as 
they are to the moderns ; insomuch that not a word is to be 
found in any ancient record or history extant, of those curious 
astronomical representations, the Zodiacs, which adorn the 
cielings of the temples in Egypt, nor of the paintings which 
cover the silent and solemn repositories of their dead. Even 
the royal sepulchres, surpassing all the efforts of art hitherto 
known, in brilliancy of colours and decorative sculptures, 
are recorded by no historian ! Neither in any history, knotvn 
to Europe, is there any allusion to the Egyptian custom of 
placing books, i. e. rolls of manuscript, in the mummy coffins 
with the bodies of the deceased. For much of the know- 
ledge collected respecting Africa, we are indebted to the 
catacombs of Egypt, and we must not hope to know much 
more,whilst our ignorance of the Arabic language is so mani- 
fest ; we must travel far out of the precincts of Greek andLatin 
lore, before we shall procure eorrect histories of African 



122 THE AMORITES. 

Brebber Kabyl, the Amorites or Ite-amor, said 
to be the descendants of the ancient 6 Amorites, 
whose country was situated east of Palestine. 
These people retain their ancient warlike spirit, 
but they are a faithless tribe, and intolerable 
thieves, unlike the other Kabyles (who are, at 
least, faithful to one of their own Kabyl) ; but 
these marauders are exceedingly mistrustful of 
their own brethren, so that their habitations con- 
sist of two or three tents only, in one encamp- 
ment ; and even these are sometimes at variance 
with each other. The lamentable result of this 



affairs ! Our knowledge of Hebrew, in Europe I apprehend, 
is almost as much confined and as imperfect as that of Arabic ! 
By the assistance, however, of the latter, what store of learn- 
ing might we not expect from complete Arabic translations 
of many of the Greek and Latin authors, viz, of the complete 
works of Livy, Tacitus, and many others. I recollect con- 
versing with Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, (a 
gentleman deeply versed in Arabian literature,) about the 
close of the last century, who mentioned circumstances, 
which gave me reason to suppose that there is extant a com- 
plete Arabic translation of Livy as well as of Tacitus, as 
the bashaw assured me there was, and that he had read 
them, and they were to be found in the recondite chests of 
the Imperial library at Fas, in which it is more than probable 
that there are many valuable transcripts in Arabic of ancient 
authors, quite lost to erudite Europe ! 

A knowledge of the Arabic language in this country is so 
indispensable, and is held in such high estimation, that every 
one who does not understand it, is denominated ajemmy, 
i. e. barbarian or European — St. Paul in the same spirit 
says, 1 Corinth, ch. xiv. v. II., " He that speaketh unin- 
telligibly, is unto us a barbarian." 

c See Genesis, xv. 16. Deuteron. xx. 17. Judges, i. 34 f 



THE EMPEROR*S CURIOUS COMPARISON. 123 

mistrustful and marauding spirit, is wretched 
and universal poverty. Their country is a suc- 
cession of gentle undulating hills, without trees 
or plantations of any kind. The late sultan 
Muhamed used to compare the provinces or 
races of men in his empire, to the nations of 
Europe, the English he called warriors, the 
French faithless, the Spaniards quiet and in- 
offensive, the Romans, i. e. the people of Italy, 
treacherous, the Dutch a parsimonious and 
trading people ; the other powers of Europe, 
having no consul at Marocco, nor merchants in 
the country, are known only by name : accord- 
ingly, in allusion to the warlike spirit of the 
English, he would call the Ait Amor, " the 
English of Barbary;" Temsena, the French; 
Duquella, the Spanish ; Haha, the Italians ; and 
Suse, the Russians. When the sultan Muhamed 
began a campaign, he never entered the field 
without the warlike Ait Amor, who marched in 
the rear of the army : these people received no 
pay, but were satisfied with what plunder they 
got after a battle ; and accordingly, this prin- 
ciple stimulating them, they were always fore- 
most on any contest, dispute, or battle. They 
begin the campaign almost in a state of nudity, 
and seldom return to their homes without abun- 
dance of apparel, arms, horses, camels, and 
money but this property quickly disappears, and 
these people are soon again reduced to their 
wonted misery and nudity, and become im- 
patient for another campaign of plunder. When 



KABYLS OF BEREBBERS. 



the present sultan, Soliman, came from Mequinas, 
in the year of the plague (1799), a division of 
his army passed near Mogodor, and the encamp- 
ments of the Ait Amor, or Amorites occupied 
the whole of the country from the river to the 
Commerce Garden, a distance of three miles. It 
is very probable that some other of the tribes 
bordering on Palestine, may have emigrated in 
remote times, and may have taken their abode 
on the Atlas mountains. There are above 
twenty (kabyls) tribes of f Berebbers occupying 
the mountains of Atlas, as Ait-Girwan, Zian, 
Ait-Ziltan, Ait-Amor, Ait-Ebeko, Ait-Kitiwa, 
Ait- Attar, Ait-Amaran, and many more whose 
names I do not now recollect. We travelled 
seven hours through the Amorite country, and 
pitched our tents in the north part of the plains 
of Msharrah Rummellah. Fire being lit, the 
Moors sat round to warm themselves, and con- 
fidently animadverted on the prosperity that 
would necessarily attend our journey, after 
having met with such a hospitable and favoured 
reception at the renowned sanctuary before 
mentioned. 

On the morning of the 20th June 9 we struck 
our tents at six o'clock, and pursued our journey 
to L'Araich, and soon entered the territory that 
belongs to the agriculturists of El Kassar Kabeer, 
a beautiful country not unlike that of Ait- Amor 

f Some persons consider several tribes of these Berebbers 
to be colonies of the ancient Phoenicians. 



GOLD MANUFACTURE OF FAS. 125 



in appearance, but bearing the evidences of 
agricultural industry. Here we discovered 
magnificent and extensive plantations of olives, 
immense citron-trees, orange-groves, and spacious 
vineyards, peaches, apricots, greengages, and 
walnuts were also the produce of this country, 
besides excellent wheat of a large and long trans- 
parent grain like amber, yielding, when ground 
into flour, from fifteen to twenty per cent, in- 
crease, in quantity. Anxious now to overtake 
His Excellency the ambassador, for the purpose 
of being present at his entry into Tangier, we 
accelerated our pace, with a view of coming up 
with him at L' Araich. We arrived at the forest 
of U Araich at dusk, and travelled through it all 
night till five o'clock next morning. 

Having travelled incessantly twenty-three 
hours without halting, being much fatigued, I 
desired Deeb to take a little rest with me in an 
adjacent field, and we sent on Bel Hage with 
the baggage to L' Araich, to wait our arrival at 
the ferry. We pursued our journey at seven 
o'clock, and entered the town at nine. On 
reaching the ferry, Bel Hage introduced a 
courier, who had been dispatched to me from 
Fas, by a friend of mine, who informed me how 
much he, and many of my Moorish friends had 
been disappointed, that I did not enter that 
city, where I understood preparations had been 
made for my entertainment, in the odoriferous 
gardens of the merchants of Fas. The courier 
brought me a present of gold wire and gold 



126 



GOLD THREAD OF FAS. 



thread, of the manufacture of Fas, and some 
gold ornaments of filligrane work from Tim- 
buctoo, of the manufacture of Jinnie. It is 
more than probable that the Fasees learned the 
art of manufacturing gold thread from the 
Egyptians : it is much superior to that which is 
imported into Barbary from Marseilles. The 
ladies ornament their cambric dresses with it, 
and the Fas gold-thread never loses its colour 
by washing, but the French does ; the Fas gold 
thread wears also much better, and is more 
durable ; the change of colour may possibly 
originate from the great proportion of alloy in 
the gold of the French manufacture, whereas 
that of Fas, according to an imperial edict, must 
be of a certain fineness, approaching to pure 
gold ; the gold wire of which it is made being 
first assayed by the (M'tasseb) supervisor 
of manufactures. Great quantities of gold 
thread are used in the elegant shawls and sashes 
of silk and gold made at Fas, the better kind of 
which are reserved for princes and bashaws, in 
which they use, as before observed,the Fas thread 
only. They manufacture also at Fas, a very 
correct imitation of amber-beads, impossible to 
be discriminated by the best judges, but by 
rubbing the artificial amber, and then applying 
it to a bit of cotton ; the latter does not adhere, 
but the natural amber attracts the cotton as a 
magnet does iron ; and this is the discriminating 
criterion whereby to distinguish them. 
But, to return to our journey, we found the am- 



AMBASSADOR'S ENTRY TO TANGIER, 127 

bassador had passed the preceding day, we there- 
fore crossed the river, and travelled on till nine 
o'clock at night, when, after being a-horseback 
thirty-four hours, refreshed only by two hours' 
sleep, we came up with the ambassadors, Cafila, 
and guard, in a fine open campaign country, 
half-way between Tangier and Arzilla ; and soon 
after I received a courier from Sir Pieter Wyk, 
Swedish consul-general to the empire residing 
at Tangier, with a very friendly invitation to his 
house and table,, which being the* first offer and 
from a sincere and worthy friend, I with pleasure 
accepted it, and returned the express imme- 
diately. On the morning of the 22d June, I 
breakfasted at five o'clock with the ambassador, 
and, discussing with him my business, I learned 
that he had terminated it to my satisfaction. We 
started together at seven o'clock, and moved 
slowly on towards Tangier, it having been 
ordered by the emperor, that the English ambas- 
sador's entry into that town should be marked 
with every possible honour and attention. An hour 
before we reached Tangier, the governor, with 
the whole garrison, came out to salute and greet 
the ambassador, the cavalry running full gallop, 
and firing their muskets, as is the custom with 
them in all rejoicings. At half-past eleven the 
cannon of Tangier began to announce the am- 
bassador's arrival, and continued, not a royal 
salute, but every gun in Tangier was discharged ; 
and at twelve o'clock we entered the gates. 



128 



LETTER XIV. 

Result of the British Embassy. 
FROM HIS EXCELLENCY J. M. MATRA TO MR. J. 

Old Fez, Sunday night, June 14, 1801. 

Dear Jackson ; 

After a most unpleasant and tedious negotia- 
tion of nine days, I have just finished my busi- 
ness. I march off early to-morrow morning, 
and am much employed in packing up, trans- 
lating, and copying of papers. 

The letter I solicited for you is just brought to 
me, mixed with Mr. Fox croft's business, and the 
provision for the shipping in Mogadore ; but 
the Talb promises to bring me a separate one 
very early in the morning, when I will inclose 
it to you. 

Through the interest of Mult/ Abdel-melhben 
Driss, the orders were some time since sent to 
Mogadore, to reduce your new duty to the old 
standard of Seedi Muhamed. 

I have been treated by the emperor like a 
prince, and with a friendly personal attention 
I had no idea of ; but my business has been 
marvellously tormented. Of that, as we are to 
meet soon, I will say no more. I am half dead. 

God bless you. 

J. MATRA. 



129 



LETTER XV. 

European Society at Tangier. — Sects and Divisions 
amoncr Christians in Muhamedan Countries counteracts 

o 

the Propagation of Christianity, and casts a Contempt 
upon Christians themselves. — The Cause of it. — The 
Conversion of Africa should be preceded by an Imitation 
of the divine Doctrine of Christ among Christians 
themselves, as an Example eligible to follow. 

TO JAMES WILLIS, ESQ. 

It is not only the duty, but it is the manifest 
policy of Christians who reside in Muhamedan 
countries, to preserve that peace and harmony 
that is so often inculcated by our divine Master : 
there should be no followers of Paul or of 
Apollos, of the Pope or of Luther, but Chris- 
tians altogether should forget sects, and become 
followers of Christ, by practising his divine and 
luminous doctrine. This principle, strictly ad- 
hered to, would have greater effect in propa- 
gating the Christian doctrine, than the united 
efforts, however arduous, of all the missionaries 
in Africa. We should first begin by reforming 
the manners of those Christians who are esta- 
blished in Muhamedan countries, holding re- 
sponsible situations, so as to show the Muha- 
medans, by their harmony and good will, the 
advantages of the benign influence of the great 
Christian principle, " Love thy neighbour as thy- 
self." Until the disgraceful animosity lamentably 
prevalent between the Catholic and Protestant, 



ISO 



CONVERSION OF AFRICA. 



the Lutheran, Calvinist, and other sects of 
Christians be annihilated, it cannot be expected 
by any reasonable and reflecting mind, that 
essential progress can be made in the propa- 
gation of Christianity in Africa, at least in the 
Muhamedan part of it. We must purify our 
own actions, and set a laudable example of 
chaste and virtuous conduct, as a prelude to the 
conversion of the people of this continent. The 
Africans, viz. the Arabs, Berebbers, Shelluhs, 
Moors, and Negroes are, generally speaking, 
shrewd, acute, discerning races of men ; and it 
cannot be supposed by any but insane enthu- 
siasts, that the doctrines of Christ can be propa- 
gated in those countries, until an example be 
set for their imitation better than their own 
practice, and more conformable to the true 
Christian doctrine than any that has hitherto 
been offered for their imitation. 

Tangier is the residence of the consuls-general 
of all the nations of Europe, who send occa- 
sionally ambassadors to the Court of Marocco ; 
and these gentlemen generally act as envoys or 
ministers, as well as consuls. The English, 
French, Dutch, American, Spanish, Portuguese, 
Swedish, and Danish consuls reside here, some 
with their families, some without. I had not 
been long here before I perceived that the 
Moors of Tangier manifested an extraordinary 
contempt for Christians, the general respect 
which is shown to them at Mogodor, is unknown 
here. The reason is evident : the families of these 



IMPEDIMENTS TO THE CHRISTIAN DOCTRINE. 131 

gentlemen were at variance with each other, and 
the respective ladies did not visit one another. 
This circumstance was too well known to the 
Moors, and materially contributed to create 
among those people that contempt for the 
Christians, which, perhaps, is due to all, what- 
ever be their professed doctrines, who have not 
charity enough, in the correct acceptation of 
the word, to maintain harmony in their own 
community. I was shocked to see so many 
amiable families at variance. I will not declare 
if it was pride, ambition, or contention for pre- 
eminence that produced this want of harmony ; 
but it is most certain, that Christians, whose 
destiny it is to reside among Muhamedans, 
should have more than ordinary care to preserve 
that philanthropic disposition to each other, 
which carries with it a high recommendation, 
particularly in a country like West Barbary, 
where the gate of every tent is open to the 
largest, most disinterested, and unqualified hos- 
pitality, and where the sheik of every douar 
considers it his first and indispensable duty to 
provide food and rest to the needy traveller, and 
to the stranger at his gate. 



132 



LETTER XVI. 

Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, showing 
the Distances from Town to Town, along the Coast of 
the Atlantic Ocean s useful to Persons travelling in 
that Country, 

TO THE SAME. 

Mogodor, 1801. 

If you should eyer come to this country, and 
have occasion to travel through it, the fol- 
lowing journal of a journey from Tangier to 
Mogodor may be of service to you, in ascer- 
taining the distances from one port to another, 
&c. 

Departed from Tangier for Mogodor, 

July 15, 1801, at 9 o'clock, A. M. Hours. 

Arrived at Arzilla, at 7, P. M. - - - 10 

Mounted at 7> A. M. ; arrived at L' Araich, 
at % P. M 7 

Started at 5, A. M. ; arrived at Ras Doura, 
at 3, P. M - -10 

Mounted at 6, A.M. ; travelled three hours; 
cameto aplain,level country, and arrived 
at Sallee, at 10 o'clock, P. M. - - 16 

Crossed the river in the ferry, and re- 
mained at the French Consul's Hotel, at 
Rabat, three days. Mounted at 9 ; arrived 
at El Mensoria, at 9, P. M. - - - 12 



Carry forward 55 



TANGIER TO MOGODOR. 



133 



Hours. 



Brought forward - - 55 

Mounted at 6, A. M. ; arrived at Dar El 
Beida, at half-past 2, P. M. - - - 8-J 

Proceeded without halting, and arrived at 
the Douar of Woled Jeraar, at 9, P. M. 
and pitched our tents - - - 7 

Mounted at 5, A.M.; arrived at Azamore, 
at 7, P. M. U 

Mounted at 7, A.M. ; travelled southward, 
leaving Mazagan to the right, and ar- 
rived at the Douar of Woled Aisah, at 
1 o'clock, P. M. and pitched our tents 6 

Departed at 7, A. M. ; arrived at El Wo- 
ladia, at 6, P. M. - - - - 11 

Mounted at 8 ; arrived at SafFy, at 5 - - 9 



Started at 1, P. M. ; rode six hours to the 
river Tansift; slept at the Sanctuary 
near the river - 6 

Rose at midnight, struck the tents, and 
mounted at 1 o'clock, A. M. arrived at 
the Sanctuary of Seedi Buzurukton, at 
11 - 10 

Dined, slept, and started again at 4 
o'clock, P. M. and entered Mogodor at 
half-past 7 o'clock - - 3| 

130 

Average rate of travelling, (including — 
stoppages,) three miles per hour, 390 
miles in 130 hours. 



134 



LETTER XVII. 

An Account of a Journey from Mogador to Saffy, during 
a Civil War, in a Moorish Dress, when a Courier 
could not pass, owing to the Warfare bet-seen the two 
Provinces of Haha and Shedma. — Stratagem adopted 
by the Author to prevent Detection. — Danger of being 
discovered.. — Satisfaction expressed by the Bashavc of 
Abda, Abdrahaman ben Nassar, on the Author's safe 
Arrival, and Compliments received from him on his having 
accomplished this perilous Journey. 

TO THE SAME. 

Mogodor, 1802. 

Having arranged all my affairs, I awaited an 
opportunity to depart for England. A Spanish 
vessel was lying at the port of Saffy, nearly 
ready to sail, bound to Cadiz ; but how to reach 
the former port was the difficulty; the provinces 
of Shedma and Haha, through which I must 
necessarily pass, were at war against each other, 
and an army of several thousand men were 
encamped at Ain el Hajar, a spring near the 
road, between Mogodor and Saffy ; so that all 
communication was cut off, insomuch that it was 
dangerous, even for a courier, to attempt to 
pass from one port to the other. I was extremely 
anxious to reach Europe, and I determined to 
go to Saffy by land. I accordingly sent for 
a trusty Arab, whose character for fidelity I 



THE AUTHOR TRAVELS IN DISGUISE. 135 

had often before proved. I asked him if he 
would undertake to conduct me to Safiy. He 
required a day to consider of it. He then re- 
solved to attempt it, provided I would adopt the 
dress of an Arab, and accompany him : I agreed; 
and we started from Mogodorat4 o'clock, P.M. 
We passed into a convenient recess, to change 
my dress, which being done, we mounted our 
horses and rode away ; we had not gone two 
hours, before some scouts of the army came 
galloping towards us. Billa (my trusty guide, 
who was a native of Shedma, and a man of con- 
siderable influence in that province) and his 
friend rode off with speed to meet them, and 
having satisfied them that we were about busi- 
ness relating to the army, they returned, and 
Billa's friend joining me, we inclined our steps 
towards the sea, whilst Billa kept guard at a 
distance ; and, reaching a convenient and soli- 
tary retreat, we halted there till dark ; when 
retracing our steps for a few miles, it was con- 
certed that I should pass as a wounded man 
retiring from the army to have my wounds 
examined and dressed. Billa was so well ac- 
quainted with the roads, and all the bye-passes 
of the country, that, travelling fast over the 
plains, not on the roads, we soon reached to the 
northward of the encampments of Shedma. We 
passed several straggling parties from the army, 
who saluted us with ("Sale?n u alikume") "Peace 
be to you;" to which we replied (< 6 Alikume 
msalam") " To you peace and Billa added 



136 INTERVIEW WITH THE BASHAW, 

" Elm'joroh" i. e. a w r ounded man. In the old 
bed of the river Tansift, now full of bushes 
of white broom, I narrowly escaped being 
discovered : as the day was breaking, a party of 
Arabs suddenly turned a corner, and I had just 
time to cover my mouth and chin with my 
(silham) cloak, before they gave the salutation, 
or they would have discovered me (being without 
a beard) to be a Christian ; we passed the river, 
however, perfectly safe, and were then soon in 
the province of Abda, when all danger was at 
an end ; we entered the town of Saffy, at two 
o'clock in the afternoon. The Bashaw of Abda, 
Abdrahaman ben Nassar, a renowned warrior, 
who had been at the head of an army of 60,000 
horse, in opposition to the Emperor, Muley 
Soliman, received me with his accustomed ur- 
banity and hospitality, and asked me if I had 
come to SafFy through the air, or by sea. I re- 
plied, I had come by neither, but by land. 
" How is it possible," said he, " that you could 
come by land, when even a courier could not pass. 
Did you meet with no impediment? — you 
astonish me : but praise be to God, that you 
have arrived safe, and you are welcome." 



137 



LETTER XVIII. 

Journey to the Prince Abd Salam, and the Khalif Delemy ^ 
in Shtuka. — Encamped in his Garden. — Mode of 
living in Shtuka. — Audience of the Prince. — Expe- 
dition to the Port of Tomie, in Suse. — Country irfested 
with rats. — Situation of Tomie. — Entertainment at a 
Douar of the Arabs of Woled Abbusebah. — Exertions 
of Delemy to entertain his Guests. — Arabian Dance 
aud Music — Manner and Style of Dancing. — Eulo- 
gium of the Viceroys and Captains to the Ladies. — 
Manners of the latter. — Their personal Beauty. — 
Dress. — Desire of the Arabs to have a Commercial 
Establishmetit in their Country. — Report to the Prince 
respecting Tomie. — Its Contiguity to the Place of the 
Growth of various Articles of Commerce. — Viceroys 
offer to build a House, and the Duties. — Contem- 
plated Visit to Messa. — Nature of the Country. — 
Gold and Silver Mines. — Garden of Delemy. — 
Immense Water-melons and Grapes. — Mode of Ir- 
rigation. — Extraordinary People from Sudan at 
Delemfs. — Elegant Sword. — Extensive Plantations. 
— The Prince pi-epares to depart for Tqfilelt. 

TO THE SAME. 

Santa Cruz, June 7, 1794-. 
I received a letter from the * Prince Muley 
Abdsalam,who lately went from Santa Cruz to the 
Khalif of Suse, Alkaid Muhamed ben Delemy, 
whose castle is in Shtuka. The prince wished to 
see me on some commercial business that had 

A Elder Brother of the present Emperor of Marocco, 
Muley Soliman, 



138 VISIT TO THE VICEROY OF SUSE, 

been suggested to him by the khalif or viceroy* 
We (that is, Signor Andrea de Christi, a native of 
Italy, and a Dutch merchant established at 
Santa Cruz, and myself) prepared our tents and 
servants, and departed for Shtuka early in the 
morning. We passed through a fine campaign 
country, occupied by a tribe of the Woled 
Abbusebah Arabs, and arrived, late at night, at 
(Luksebba) the castle of Delemy, who was 
also sheik of an emigration of the Arabs called 
Woled Abbusebah, and of another emigration of 
Arabs called Woled Deleim, who had taken 
up their abodes in Shtuka. When we arrived, 
our reception was in the true style of Arabian 
hospitality. Delemy had prepared and had 
pitched tents in a large garden adjoining his 
castle, wherein we resided. Our own tents were 
pitched in the Mushoir, or place of audience, a 
spacious plain, enclosed by a wall, where the 
sheik gave audience to the various kabyls of 
Suse. The following day we had an audience 
of the prince, who requested me to accompany 
Delemy to a port of Suse, which had been 
formerly frequented by European ships, which 
took in water there, and ascertain if it were a 
port convenient for a commercial establishment. 
The name of this seaport was called Tomie 
by the Portuguese, who formerly had an esta- 
blishment there ; but by the Arabs, Sebah 
Biure, i. e. the Seven Wells, because there were 
seven wells of excellent water there : three of 
them, however, when we visited this port, were 



BEDOUIN ARABS. 



139 



filled up and useless. We left Delemy's castle 
in the afternoon, about two or three o'clock, 
and we went at a pace called by the Arabs 
el herka b 9 over a plain country infested with 
rats, and the haunts of serpents, our horses 
continually stumbling over the rat-holes. We 
were, to the best of my recollection, about four 
hours going. We found Tomie, an open road^ 
not altogether calculated to form an advan- 
tageous commercial establishment. Its situation 
with respect to the sea being somewhat objec- 
tionable. We sat down near one of the wells, 
and after Delemy and his guards had amused 
themselves with (lab el borode) running full 
gallop and firing, we drank Hollands till we 
became gay. The sun had just set, when we 
mounted our horses to return. After an hour's 
herka, we approached a douar of the Woled 
Abbusebah Arabs, who, seeing their sheik, came 
forward and kissed his stirrups, entreating him 
to pass the night with them, which, it appeared, 
would have been contrary to the etiquette of 
Arabian hospitality to refuse. Delemy, there- 
fore, asked us if we would consent to sleep 
there ; and, apologising for not conducting us 
to our own beds that night, again intimated, 
that it was, in a manner, incumbent on him, 
not to refuse. We, therefore, consented to stop. 
This noble-spirited Arab, anxious to entertain 
us, and justly conceiving that the beds and 

b A pace similar to that which European cavalry go when 
charging. 



140 ARAB DANCE AND MUSIC. 



habits of these Arabs were very different front 
what we had been accustomed to, sought to 
beguile the time, and accordingly endeavoured 
to engage some ladies belonging to the douar to 
dance, but they positively declined dancing be- 
fore Christians. Delemy expostulated with them, 
representing the propriety of doing so, before 
the prince's guests ; but the ladies apologised, 
by declaring that their splendid dancing dresses 
were not made up. Delemy, however, with 
the true energy of an Arab, was determined 
that he would make our abode here as pleasant 
as possible, and desirous also to show us the 
spirit of Arabian dancing, he went himself, 
accompanied by two of his friends, to a douar, 
at some miles' distance, and, after much persua- 
sion, he prevailed on six young ladies to come 
and dance. In about two hours, the sheik re- 
turned, and informed us, that knowing that 
beds in the desert would not suit our customs, 
he had engaged some young girls to amuse us 
with dancing during the night, assuring us at 
the same time that they excelled in that grace- 
ful art, and he had no doubt they would amuse 
us. The tents were cleared and lighted two 
sheep were killed, and the cuscasoe was prepar- 
ing, when the ladies arrived. The music consisted 
of an instrument similar to a flageolet, {tabid) 
a kettledrum, and a sort of castanets of steel, 
an erbeb, or fiddle with two strings, played with 
a semicircular bow. The tunes were gay and 
sprightly, and the damsels tripped along on the 



ARAB DANCE. 



141 



light fantastic toe in a very superior and elegant 
style. They danced without men; advancing 
gently at first, apparently without taking the 
foot off the ground, but gradually advancing ; 
after which they performed some steps similar to 
those in the Spanish bolera ; and, turning round 
on the toe, they danced a most elegant shawl 
dance, equal to what was danced at the Opera 
in London by Parisot, but without the horizontal 
movement, or any motion that could offend the 
chastest eye. This unique national dance was 
encouraged from time to time by the approba- 
tion of twelve captains of the viceroy's guard, 
warriors of fame in arms, who were Arabs of 
the Woled Deleim, and who were seated in a 
circle, with us, round the dancers, expressing 
their delight and gratification in witnessing such 
superior grace and elegance, exclaiming — 

" Afakume el Arabe, makine fal el Arabe, 
El Hashema, u zin, u temara, fie el Arabe." 

" Bravo, O Arabs! there is none equal to the Arabs: 
Excellent is the modesty, beauty, and virtue of the Arabs." 

These eulogiums were not lost on the ladies, 
who increased the spirit of the dance. When 
this amusement had continued about three hours, 
the cuscasoe, meat, and vegetables were brought 
in, as a supper. The Moors ate plentifully; but 
the abstemious Arabs ate very little ; the ladies 
partook of sweet cakes and dates ; they very 
seldom chew meat, but when they do, they 



142 



ELECANT FEMALES. 



think it gross to swallow it, they only press the 
juices from the meat, and throw away the sub- 
stance. The manners of these damsels were ele- 
gant, accompanied with much suavity and affa- 
bility, but very modest and unassuming withal : 
indeed, they were all individuals, as I afterwards 
learned, belonging to respectable and ancient 
Arab families, who could not resist the exhorta- 
tions of their sheik to amuse and entertain his 
guests. The manners of these Arabs, their ele- 
gant forms, sparkling black eyes, long black 
eye-lashes, which increased the beauty of the 
eye, adding character to the countenance, 
seemed to make an indelible impression on the 
whole party. The ladies wore robes of Indian mus- 
lin, girdles of gold thread, interwoven with silk 
of the Fas manufacture; and their shawls of silk 
and gold were displayed in various elegant de- 
vices. We were given to understand by Delemy's 
captains, on our return to the sheik's castle, that 
we had been entertained with extraordinary ho- 
nours : we certainly were highly gratified, and 
my friend Signor Andrea declared he had never 
seen better dancing at Venice, his native place. 
Among the Arabs was an old man of ninety, who 
appeared very desirous of an European establish- 
ment at Tomie. He related several anecdotes of 
his life ; and, among others, the money he had 
gained, by purchasing goods of vessels which 
came forty or fifty years before to Tomie for 
water, with which he said he used to exchange 
gums and almonds, feathers and ivory, for linens, 



PATRIARCHAL AND CIVILIZED LIFE. 143 



cloths, and spices. I am disposed to think these 
vessels were Portuguese ; for this coast is but 
little known to the English. The ladies having 
returned home, we prepared to leave this douar 
early in the morning ; and with no small regret 
did I quit this abode of simple and patriarchal 
hospitality ; a pleasing contrast was here formed 
to the dissipation and pleasure of civilised life — 
to the life of fashionable society, where the re- 
finements of luxury have multiplied their artifi- 
cial wants beyond the proportion of the largest 
fortunes, and have brought most men into the 
class of the necessitous, inducing that churlish 
habit of the mind, in which every feeling is con- 
sidered as a weakness, which terminates not in 
self, unlike those generous sympathies of the 
Arabs, where every individual seems impelled to 
seek, as they express it, {e dire el khere fie nes) 
" to do good to men." The effect of luxury, 
dissipation, and extravagance, (where the for- 
tune is not large enough to support them,) tends 
to render man selfish upon principle, and extin- 
guishes all genuine public spirit, that is, all real 
regard to the interests and good order of society ; 
substituting in its place, the vile ambition and 
rapacity of the demagogue, which, however, as- 
sumes the name of patriotism. This contrast 
between the temperance and sobriety of these 
Bedouin or primitive Arabs, and the luxury and 
dissipation of civilised life, was the more remark- 
able, when we observed among this rude people 
such extraordinary and mutual exercise of bene- 
volence, manly and open presence, honesty and 



144 OFFER OF A COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENT. 



truth in their words and actions. — On our re- 
turn to Delemy's castle, in Shtuka, the Prince 
asked me, what observations I had made respect- 
ing Tomie ; I told his Royal Highness that it 
was an open roadstead, and not a convenient 
place for ships to lie. The Prince appeared 
pleased at this report ; but Delemy had rendered 
to Muley Abdsalam so many essential services, 
that the latter could not, in courtesy, refuse him 
any thing. When Delemy found that my report 
to the Prince did not realise his expectations, 
offers were made to me, supported by every 
possible encouragement, to form a commercial 
establishment at Tomie, which, as was observed, 
being advantageously situated for trade, being 
in the neighbourhood of the gum, almond, and 
oil countries, would offer advantages to the 
merchants which they could not expect at Santa 
Cruz, or Mogodor. Accordingly, I was urged 
to send to Europe for ships, with assurances 
that the duty on all imports, as well as exports, 
should be only two percent, ad valorem. A 
house was offered to be built for me, according 
to any plan I might choose to suggest, free of 
expence. The people were desirous of having 
a commercial establishment in their country, 
and would have done any thing to accomplish 
this object. The extensive connections which 
I had throughout Suse, Sahara, and even at 
Timbuctoo, would have facilitated my oper- 
ations ; but my connections in England were not 
such as to enable me to engage advantageously 
in this enterprise, I was obliged, therefore, though 



VISIT TO MESS A. 



145 



reluctantly, to decline it, although, if otherwise 
situated, I might have realised an independent 
fortune in two or three years at Tomie, besides 
having a most favourable opportunity of opening 
a trade with Tombuctoo, and other territories of 
Sudan. 

I now felt a strong inclination to visit the port 
of Messa, which was reported to have been about 
two centuries before, a considerable port of 
trade, and the capital of Suse, when that country 
was a separate kingdom, and the state-prisoners 
were banished to Sejin-messa *, (commonly called 
Segelmessa in the maps ;) as the state prisoners 
of Marocco have been from time immemorial, 
and are to this day sent to Tafilelt, which terri- 
tory lies contiguous to, and west of Sejin-messa. 
We started for Messa in the morning, and 
reached the town in the afternoon. Delemy 
sent a strong guard with me for protection, with 
an injunction to his friend the fakeer of Messa, 
to treat me as his friend and guest, and to do 
whatever he could to gratify my curiosity in 
every respect. The country about Messa is very 
picturesque, and productive : the river also 
abounds with romantic scenery, it has a sand- 
bar at its entrance to the ocean, which is dry at 
low water ; but it was once navigable several 
miles up, as was reported to me. On the south 
bank of the river, about two miles from the sea, 
is a gold-mine, in the territory of a tribe hostile 

* Sejin Messa signifies the prison of Messa. 



146 



MINES AT MESSA. 



to Delemy, but the influence of the Fakeer, who 
is held in reverential awe, enabled us to exa^ 
mine it without danger. What they told us was 
the entrance, was filled with immense large 
pieces of rock-stone ; and I was informed, that 
when the Christians left the place, (the Portu- 
guese, no doubt,) they placed these stones at 
the entrance of the mine, to prevent the natives 
from getting access to it. In the bed of the river, 
near the sea, is a mine of silver ; the ore is in very 
small particles, like lead-coloured sand, inter- 
mixed with mud. I sent a small quantity of this 
to England to be analysed ; and it produced, as 
I was informed, just enough to pay the expenses 
of analysation. I sent also several specimens of 
gold and silver ore, which I collected in various 
parts of Suse ; but I apprehend that sufficient 
attention was not paid to them, and they also 
scarcely paid for the analysation. I sent also to 
the Honourable Mr. Greville, brother to the late 
Earl of Warwick, a great many basaltick and other 
stones, collected in the mountains of Barbary, 
which that gentleman considered valuable. After 
remaining two days at Messa, I returned to 
Shtuka. I was again urged to form an establish- 
ment at Tomie ; but, limited as my connection 
was in England, I did not feel competent to the 
undertaking, and was obliged, reluctantly indeed, 
but finally, to decline it. 

The garden of Delemy, where we encamped, 
is stocked with very fine vines from the moun- 



INDEPENDENCE OF IDAUTENAN. 147 

tains of Idautenan *, a mountainous and inde- 
pendent country, a few miles north of Santa 
Cruz ; these grapes were of the black or purple 
kind, as big as an ordinary-sized walnut, and very 
sweet flavoured, as much superior to the finest 
Spanish grapes, as the latter are superior to the 
natural grown grapes of England. Large pome- 
granates, exquisitely sweet, the grains very large, 
and the seed small, brought from Terodant ; figs, 
peaches, apricots, strawberries, oranges, citrons 
of an enormous size, water-melons, weighing 
fifty pounds each, four of which were a camel 
load, together with culinary vegetables of every 
description. This garden was watered by a well, 
having what is called a Persian wheel, worked 
by a horse, having pots all round the perpendi- 
cular wheel, which, as they turn round, discharge 
their contents into a trough, which communi- 
cated to the garden, and laid the beds under 

* The mountains of Idautenan divide the province of Haha 
from Suse : they are exempt from Ska u Lashor, that is, two 
per cent, on live stock, and 10 per cent, on produce which 
is the regular impost on the country. They are a brave race 
of Shelluhs, inhabiting a table-land in the mountains that is a 
perfect terrestrial paradise. There is but one person in Europe 
besides myself who has ever been in this country. Sheik 
Muluke, the sheik of Idautenan, is a generous noble-spirited 
independent character. When an emperor dies, the sheik 
sends Muley Ismael's firman, emancipating the district 
from all impost or contribution to the revenue, for some 
military service rendered by this district to the ancestor of 
Ismael, and the succeeding emperors invariably confirm their 
emancipation of Idautenan. 



148 



delemy's renown. 



water. This is the general mode of irrigation 
throughout west and south Barbaiy, as well as 
in Sudan. 

The Prince was very anxious to be of service 
to Delemy, who had ingratiated himself with the 
former, by signalising himself in feats of arms. 
He had been also a main pillar to the throne, and 
I sincerely regretted that the combination of 
circumstances did not permit me to accept the 
liberal and advantageous offers made to me. 

Delemy's renown had spread far to the south, 
even unto Sudan : from the latter country he was 
visited by some people, who w T ore circular rings 
of pure gold, through the cartilage of the nose. 
The rings were two or three inches in diameter ; 
and when these people ate, they turned them up 
over the nose. Delemy had received a present, 
from some king of Sudan, of a very elegant sword, 
ornamented with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, 
he showed me this sword, which was evidently 
manufactured in Europe ; he told me, he had 
been offered 5000 dollars for it ; but he had been 
informed that it was worth double that sum. 

I was invited bv the Khalif of Suse to visit 
the immensely extensive plantations of olives at 
Ras el Wed, near Terodant, through which a man 
may proceed a whole day's journey without ex- 
posure to the sun : also he offered to accompany 
me to the eastern part of Shtuka, where the pro- 
duce of bitter and sweet almonds is equally 
abundant, and the plantations equally extensive 
with those of the olive at Ras el Wed ; but I had 



PLANTATIONS. 



14-9 



seen plantations of both on a smaller scale at Ait- 
Musie, Fruga, and other parts of this empire ; and 
therefore the sight would have been no novelty, 
except in extent. I understood these planta- 
tions were on the same plan and principle with 
those I had seen, leaving at certain distances, 
square openings, to admit the air, for the better 
promotion of the growth and increase of the fruit 
and produce of the trees. 

The Prince was preparing to depart through 
Draha, and Bled el Jereed, to Tafilelt ; and we 
had our audience of leave previous to his 
departure. 



150 



LETTER XIX. 

Journey from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, when no Travellers 
ventured to pass, owing to civil War and Contention 
among the Kabyles. — Moorish Philanthropy in digging 
Wells for the Use of Travellers. — Travelled with a 
trusty Guide without Provisions, Tents, Baggage, or In- 
cumbrances. — Nature of the Warfare in the Land. 
Bitter Effects of Revenge and Retaliation on the Happi- 
ness of Society. — Origin of these civil Wars between the 
Families and Kabyles. — Presented with Honey and 
Butter for Breakfast. — Patriarchal Manner of living 
among the Shelluhs compared to that of Abraham. — 
Aromatic Honey. — Ceremony at Meals, and Mode of 
eating. — Travelled all Night, and slept in the open 
Air; — Method of avoiding the Night-dew, as practised 
by the Natives. — Arrival at Mogodor. 

TO THE SAME. 

Santa Cruz, April 7> 1795. 

The province of Haha was in arms ; caffilahs, 
and travellers could not pass; but it was expe- 
dient that I should go to Mogodor. Men of pro- 
perty in this country, influenced by a philan- 
thropic spirit, often expend large sums in dig- 
ging wells in districts, through which caffilahs 
pass, on their road from one country to another. 
I knew one of these philanthropists who was at 
Santa Cruz, and who had recently benefited the 
province of Haha, by having dug a well in the 
Kabyl of Benitamer, a mountainous district in 



JOURNEY, &C. 



1.51 



Haha ; I sent for him, and as he was under ob- 
ligations to me for various services I had ren- 
dered to him and his family, he consented to 
accompany me to Mogodor, through the dis- 
turbed province of Haha ; and he assured me, 
that his influence throughout that province was 
such, that, by travelling quick, and without any 
baggage, tents, or incumbrances, he did not doubt 
of conducting me safe to Mogodor. I agreed to 
go with him, without servants, tents, or bedding, 
being determined to reconcile myself, under pre- 
sent circumstances, to the accommodation the 
country might afford. We started from Santa 
Cruz at sun-set; travelling through Tamaract, to 
the river Beni Tamur. We continued our jour- 
ney till we arrived, at the dawn of day, at the 
foot of immense high mountains, called Idiau- 
gomoron. Here my companion and guide L' Hage 
Muhamed bu Zurrawel, pointed out to me two 
castellated houses, about two miles distant from 
each other ; the family-quarrels of these people 
had produced such animosity, that the inhabit- 
ants of neither house could with safety go out, 
for fear of being overpowered and killed by those 
of the other ; so that wherever they went, they 
were well armed, but dared not go far. These 
two families were preparing for a siege, which 
often happens in this province. Thus the inhabit- 
ants of one house attack another, and some- 
times exterminate or put to death the whole 
family, with their retainers. The province of 
Haha was thus in a state of the most lamentable 



152 



JOURNEY FROM 



civil war, originating from these family-quarrels 
and domestic feuds. The heathen and anti- 
christian principle of revenge and retaliation, is 
here pursued with such bitter and obstinate ani- 
mosity, that I have known instances of men re- 
linquishing their vocation, to go into a far coun- 
try to revenge the blood of a relation after a 
lapse of twenty years, and pursue the object of 
his revenge, for some murder committed in his 
family, perhaps forty or fifty years before. 

To a British public, blessed with the benign 
influences of the Christian doctrine, it is perhaps 
necessary that I should elucidate this retaliative 
doctrine by an example : — Two men quarrel, and 
fight; they draw their kumay as (curved daggers 
about 12 inches long), which all the people of 
Haha wear, as well as all the clans or kabyles of 
Shelluhs ; and if one happens to give his anta- 
gonist a deadly wound, it becomes an indispen- 
sable duty in the next of kin to the person killed 
or murdered, (though perhaps it can hardly be 
termed a murder, as it is not committed, like an 
European duel, in cold blood, but in the moment 
of irritation, and at a period when the mind is 
under the influence of anger,) to seek his revenge 
by watching an opportunity to kill the survivor 
in the contest. If the former should die, his 
next of kin takes his place, and pursues his 
enemy, whose life is never safe ; insomuch that, 
whole kabyles, when this deadly animosity has 
reached its acme, have been known to quit their 
country and emigrate into the Sahara ; for when 



SANTA CRUZ TO MO GOD OR. 



153 



the second death has been inflicted, it then be- 
comes the incumbent duty of the next of kin of 
the deceased to seek his revenge : they call this 
justifying blood. This horrible custom has the 
most lamentable influence on the happiness of 
human life ; for there will sometimes be several in- 
dividuals seeking the life of oneman, till this prin- 
ciple, pervading all the ramifications of relation- 
ship and consanguinity, produces family-broils, 
hostility, and murder, ad irtfinitum ! ! We stopped 
at a friend of L'Hage Muhamed, who presented 
us with honey and butter, thin shavings of the 
latter being let to fall into a bowl of honey for 
breakfast. This bowl was served up with flat 
cakes kneaded without leaven, and baked on 
hot stones ; these are converted from corn into 
food in less than half an hour ; they are in shape 
similar to our crumpets or pancakes. We were 
pressed by this Shelluh to stay and dine with him, 
which being agreed to, he sent a shepherd to his 
flock to kill a fat young kid, which was roasted 
with a wooden spit, before the vital heat had 
subsided, which was very tender, and of an ex- 
quisite flavour. The bread or cakes above de- 
scribed appear to be similar to what the women 
kneaded for the guests in the patriarchal ages : 
indeed, the customs of these people, as well as 
those of the Arabs, is precisely the same as they 
were in the patriarchal ages, and which are de- 
lineated in the 18th chapter of Genesis, 1st to 
the 8th verse. 

The honey of this province is very fine : it has 



154 



Arabs' customs* 



an aromatic flavour, derived from the wild thyme 
and other aromatic herbs on which the bees 
feed. Among these people every meal is pre- 
ceded with a washing of their hands with water, 
which is brought round for the purpose in a brass 
pan ; each guest dips his right hand in the pan, 
and a napkin is presented to wipe them j they 
then break the bread, and, after saying grace, 
which is universally this, — bismillah, i. e. " in the 
name of God," each guest takes a bit of bread, 
dips it in the honey and butter, and eats it. It 
is reckoned uncourteous or vulgar to bite the 
bread ; therefore the piece broken off is sufficient 
for a mouthful, so that there is nothing that 
should offend a delicate appetite in this antique 
mode of eating. We remained several hours with 
our hospitable Shelluh friend ; and we departed, 
after taking a little sleep, at four o'clock in the 
afternoon. Travelling all night, we arrived, at the 
dawn of day, at a large house in Idaugourd ; the 
Shelluh to whom it belonged brought us carpets, 
and we slept under the wall of his house till the 
sun arose. The people of this country prefer 
sleeping in the open air to a room, and they 
have an excellent mode of securing themselves 
from the heavy dews of the night, by covering 
their heads and faces with a thin woollen hayk 
or garment, which they throw over their heads 
and faces. When I have had the Arabs of 
Sahara (who have conducted the caffilahs from 
Timbuctoo) at my house at Santa Cruz, I gave 
them a long narrow room, 48 feet long, which 



ARABS' CUSTOMS. 



155 



was called (beet assudan) the apartment of Sudan, 
to sleep in ; but they invariably came out at night, 
and placed their carpets and mats, as beds, out- 
side of the room, and slept under the balustrade, 
in preference to the confinement, as they called 
it, of a room. 

We rose at sun-rise, passed through the pic- 
turesque district of Idaugourd and the Woolja, 
and entered Mogodor at four o'clock, P. M. 



AN ACCOUNT 

OF THE 

RISE, PROGRESS, AND DECREASE 

OF 

THE PLAGUE 

That ravaged Barbary in 1799; 

FAITHFULLY EXTRACTED FROM 
LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE HOUSE OF JAMES JACKSON 
AND CO., OR BY JAMES G. JACKSON, 
MERCHANTS AT MOGODOR, 

TO THEIR CORRESPONDENTS IN EUROPE, DURING THE 
EPIDEMY. 



Fragments respecting the Plague, 

When the Emperor's army proceeded from Fas 
to Marocco in the summer of 1799, a detach- 
ment of which passed by Mogodor, consisting of 
20,000 horse and 10,000 foot, it had the plague 
with it ; so that, wherever it passed, the plague 
uniformly appeared three days after its arrival 
at the respective douars near which it encamped; 
those who died were buried in the tents, and 
the people of the provinces knew little about it. 

A large akkaba*, consisting of upwards of 
1700 camels, arrived 23d August, 1799, at Akka 

1 An akkaba is an accumulated caravan. 



PROGRESS OF THE PLAGUE. 



157 



from Timbuctoo, laden with gum-sudan, ostrich- 
feathers, and gold dust, which had brought also 
many slaves ; this akkaba had deposited its mer- 
chandize at Akka, till the plague should disappear 
and the country become healthy; as the people 
of that territory, unlike Muhamedans in general, 
will hold no communication with the infected, 
nor will they admit any one from these parts. 

Mogodor, April 31, 1799. 
A violent fever now rages at Fas : some assert 
it to be the plague, but that is Moorish report, 
and little to be depended on ; the European con- 
suls at Tangier, and the Spanish ambassador, 
who, having terminated his embassy, has lately 
left Mequinas, mention it as an epidemical dis- 
order. 

May 20. The small-pox rages violently through- 
out this country, and is of a most virulent kind : 
its origin is ascribed to the famine that has of 
late pervaded this country, and which was pro- 
duced by the incredible devastation of the de- 
vouring locusts ; the dregs of olives, after the 
oil had been extracted, has been the only food 
that could be procured by many thousands. 

Mogodor, June 14, 1799. 

Various reports reach us daily from the city of 
Marocco, respecting the epidemy that prevails 
there, some say £00 die, some say 100, others 



158 PROGRESS OF THE PLAGUE. 



limit the daily mortality to 50, in a population, 
according to the imperial register, of 270,000. 

When any light rain falls, as is the case at 
Marocco at this season of the year, the mortality 
increases. Mr. Francisco Chiappe, an Italian 
merchant, is just arrived from Marocco, and is 
performing quarantine, by his own desire, at the 
Emperor's garden. 5 This gentleman reports, 
that the greater portion of the people die of fear, 
from hunger, or bad food, or from the small-pox, 
which latter has raged at Marocco the last month 
or two ; but he had not been able to ascertain, so 
various were the reports, whether it was the 
plague or not. The emperor's army, a division 
of which passed through this country, and en- 
camped at the river, about two miles south of 
this port, had the distemper with it. We have 
been assured, that the soldiers who died, were 
immediately buried within the tents, so that, by 
this stratagem, the mortality was not perceived 
by the public ; it was apprehended that, if the 
mortality were known, the kabyls, through which 
the army passed from Mequinas to Marocco, 
would not have supplied the troops with pro- 
vision. This detachment consisted of 20,000 
horse and 10,000 foot. No disorder has yet ap- 
peared here, nor in the adjacent provinces of 
Shedma and Haha. 

b A garden in the province of Haha, five miles from 
Mogodor, that was presented to the European merchants by 
the late sultan, Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah. 



PROGRESS OF THE PLAGUE. 159 



July 5. We dispatched the Spanish brig yes- 
terday; but she is still at anchor in the road, wait- 
ing for passengers, who fly from hence with pre- 
cipitation, from fear of the fever or plague, which 
prevails at Fas and at Marocco, and which, it is 
reported, has made its appearance at the port of 
Saffy. We have, however, nothing of the kind 
here yet, though we expect we shall not escape 
the general scourge. 

July 13. The epidemy in the interior pro- 
vinces has greatly augmented, insomuch, that the 
demand for linen to bury the dead rapidly in- 
creases, and the stock is almost exhausted. This 
article has risen to an unprecedented price. All 
the relatives of L'Hage Abdallah have fallen vic- 
tims to the epidemy. This gentleman is conse- 
quently in possession of very considerable pro- 
perty ; and (if he be not also carried off) there 
will be no fear of our recovering the debt he 
owes you. 

We cannot ascertain if the disorder prevails in 
the outer town, and in the Jews' quarter, or not ; it 
is certain, however, that eight or ten die daily of 
the small-pox, and as many more of fevers and 
other disorders, as report proclaims. 

July 25. We are so much engaged in making 
arrangements against the epidemy, which is now 
confidently reported to us to be the plague, of a 
most deadly species, that we have only time to 
refer you to the captain of the Aurora, to whom 
we have communicated every particular, and who 



160 PROGRESS OF THE PLAGUE* 



is extremely anxious to be off for England. The 
deaths in this town, which contained a po- 
pulation of 10,000, according to the imperial re- 
gister, are from forty to fifty each day. 

Aug. 1. As the plague now rages violently 
here, no one thinks of business or the affairs of 
this world; but each individual anticipates that 
he will be next called away. I send the inclosed, 
to be forwarded to Mr. Andrea de Christo, at 
Amsterdam, to announce to him the sudden 
death of his partner, Mr. J. Pacifico, who is 
lately dead of the plague. I paid him a visit a 
few hours before his death ; I met there Don 
Pedro de Victoria, who was smoking a segar ; 
he offered me one, and urged me to smoke it. I 
believe that the smoke of tobacco is anti-pesti- 
lential ; this, added to the precaution of avoid- 
ing contact, and inhalation of the breath of the 
person infected, appears to be quite sufficient to 
secure a person from infection. 

Aug. 1. (Translation of a letter to Mr. Andrea 
de Christi, merchant at Amsterdam.) We are 
sorry that the subject of this letter is so melan- 
choly. All our domestics have left us ; the plague 
rages so violently here, that the daily mortality 
is from sixty to seventy, among which we are 
sorry to announce the death of your partner, 
Mr. J. Pacifico, who died two days since. 

August 23. The best gum is selling at 
Akka for six dollars a quintal : they will not 
bring it here, fearing the infection. A large 



DECREASE OF THE PLAGUE. 



161 



Brazil ship has been wrecked off Cape Noon, 
her cargo, consisting for the most part of silks 
and linens, is estimated at half a million of 
dollars. The Arabs of Sahara convert the most 
beautiful lace into bridles for their horses, by 
twisting it ; and superior silk stockings are selling 
at Wedinoon at a dollar per dozen pair. The 
plague is rapidly diminishing from 100 deaths 
to 20 or 30 per day. Meeman Corcoes is dead, 
as well as most of the principal tradesmen of 
Marocco and Fas ; whole families have been 
swept off, and there is none left to inherit their 
property. Immense droves of horses, mules, and 
cattle of every description stray in the plains 
without owners. 

September 5. The plague continues to de- 
crease ; and in another month we expect to be quite 
free from it. Signor Conton died this morning 
of the epidemy ; yesterday afternoon he was appa- 
rently quite well, and paid me a visit. He wished 
me to shake hands with him, which I declined, 
alleging as an excuse, that I would dispense 
with that custom till the plague should pass 
over. He drank a glass of wine, and appeared 
cheerful and in good health. I have had fixed in 
my dining room, a table that extends from one 
end to the other. I walk or sit on one side 
of the table, my visitors on the other. I am 
only cautious to avoid personal contact. All 
the houses of the other merchants are closely 
barricaded or bolted. A fumigating pot of gum 



162 



DECREASE OF THE PLAGUE, 



sandrac stands at the entrance of my house, 
continually burning, which diffuses an agreeable 
perfume, but is not, as I apprehend, an antidote 
to the epidemy. 

October 1. We have to apprise you of the 
decease of L'Hage Abdallah El Hareishy, most 
of whose relations are dead. His brother is the 
only one of the family besides himself that 
remains : he has inherited considerable property, 
and thence will be enabled to pay your bill on 
him in our favour. 

October 29. The plague appears to have 
ceased in this town. All the merchants have 
opened their houses ; but the disorder continues 
in the provinces, from whence there is little 
or no communication with the town. The kabyls 
seem to be wholly engaged in burying their 
dead, in arranging the affairs of their respective 
families, in dividing the property inherited by 
them, and in administering consolation to the 
sick. 

Nov. 11. The plague having committed incal- 
culable ravages throughout this country, had put 
a stop to all commerce, which now begins to 
revive, in proportion as that calamity subsides. 
Linens are selling to great advantage, a cargo 
would now render 60 per cent, profit, clear of all 
charges. 

Nov. 29. The deadly epidemy that has 
lately visited us, and which at one period carried 
off above 100 each day, has now confined its 



DECREASE OF THE PLAGUE. 



163 



daily mortality to two or three ; some days none. 
When, however, the Arabs of Shedma, and the 
Shelluhs of Haha come to town, and bring the 
clothes of their deceased relations for sale, the 
epidemy increases to three, four, and five a day ; 
then, in three or four days, it declines again to 
its former number, one, two, or three. We have 
reason to expect, that, before the vessels which 
we expect from London shall arrive, the plague 
will have subsided entirely. 

Mogodor, Dec. 12. 1799. The plague or 
mortality of this town is now reduced to three 
or four weekly. 

OBSERVATION. 

After the plague had subsided, a murrain 
attacked the cattle, and great numbers of all 
kinds died ; so that they became reduced in the 
same proportion as the race of man had been 
reduced before. 



Letter from His Excellency James M. Matra to 
Mr. Jackson, 

Gibraltar, 28th Oct. 1799. 

Dear Jackson; 

Within a few days of each other, I received 
your packets of the 21st of September, and 
8th instant. Their inclosures are of course 



164 



THE PLAGUE. 



taken care of. Your letter about Soke Assa 
was received, and sent home to government 
ages ago. 

I never could understand the drift of the people 
either at Tangier or Mogodor, in asserting that 
my report of the plague was political. God 
knows, that our politics in Barbary are never 
remarkable for refinement : they are, if any 
thing, rather too much in the John Bull style ; 
and the finesse they gave me such credit for, 
was absolutely beyond my comprehension, as I 
never could discover what advantage a genuine 
well-established plague in Barbary could be to 
our country. Of its existence I had not the 
shadow of doubt, for more than eight months 
before it was talked of ; and when Doctor Bell 
was going that way, I begged of him to be 
particular in his enquiries, which he, as usual, 
neglected. When John Salmon a was up, he 
was very particular, and I of course was 
laughed at. Here I saw politics, and told 
all the gentlemen, that when Salmon b arrived 
at TarifFa, then, and not till then, we should 
have the plague in Barbary ; and just so it 
turned out. 

a John Salmon was Spanish envoy to the emperor of 
Marocco, and was at this time up at Fas, i. e. on his 
embassy. 

b Arrived at Tariffa, and so secured his admission into 
Spain on his return from his embassy. 



THE PLAGUE. 



165 



1 am confident, if my advice had been taken, 
the disease might have been checked in the 
beginning ; for it was almost three quarters of a 
year confined to old Fas. I wrote in the most 
pressing manner to Ben Ottoman e , who never 
believed me. A few days before he was seized 
with it, he wrote me a melancholy letter for 
advice, and pathetically lamented that he had 
not listened to me in time ; and I suppose that 
even Broussonet d believed me when he em- 
barked. I hope your opinion that it diminishes 
with you will prove well founded ; but I fear its 
ravages are only suspended by the great heats ; 
besides, you should recollect that people cannot 
die twice, and with a population so diminished, 
you must not expect so many as formerly on 
your daily dead-list. Mrs. M., who desires her 
remembrance to you, is well, but barring plague, 
would rather be at Tangier than Gibraltar ; so 
would I. 

Ever truly thine, 

J. Matra. 

e The emperor's prime-minister, or talb cadus at that time. 

d Dr. Broussonet, French consul. This gentleman was in- 
tendant of the botanical garden at Montpelier : he, with 
another doctor embarked for Europe just as the plague 
began to appear at Mogodor in the year 1799. 



106 



THE PLAGUE. 



Some Account of a peculiar Species of Plague which depo- 
pulated West Barbary in 1799 and 1800, and to the 
Effects of which the Author was an eye-witness. 

From various circumstances and appearances, 
and from the character of the epidemical dis- 
temper which raged lately in the south of Spain, 
there is every reason to suppose, it was similar 
to that distemper or plague which depopulated 
West Barbary ; for, whether we call it by the 
more reconcileable appellation of the epidemy, 
or yellow fever, it was undoubtedly a plague, and 
a most destructive one ; for wherever it prevailed, 
it invariably carried off, in a few months, one- 
half, or one-third, of the population. 

It does not appear how the plague originated 
in Fas in the year 1799. a Some persons, who 
were there at the time it broke out, have confi- 
dently ascribed it to infected merchandise im- 
ported into that place from the East; whilst 
others, of equal veracity and judgment, have not 
scrupled to ascribe it to the locusts which had 
infested West Barbary during the seven pre- 
ceding years, the destruction of which was fol- 
lowed by the (jedrie) small-pox, which pervaded 

a See the Author's observations, in a letter to Mr. Willis, 
in Gentleman's Magazine, February, 1805. 



THE PLAGUE. 



16? 



the country, and was generally fatal. The jedrie 
is supposed to be the forerunner of this species of 
epidemy, as appears by an ancient Arabic ma- 
nuscript, which gives an account of the same 
disorder having carried off two-thirds of the in- 
habitants of West Barbary about four centuries 
since. But however this destructive epidemy 
originated, its leading features were novel, and 
its consequences more dreadful than the common 
plague of Turkey, or that of Syria, or Egypt. 
Let every one freely declare his own sentiments 
about it ; let him assign any credible account of 
its rise, or the causes that introduced so terrible 
a scene. 1 shall relate only what its symptoms 
were, what it actually was, and how it terminated, 
having been an eye-witness of its dreadful effects, 
and having seen and visited many who were af- 
flicted, and who were dying with it. 

In the month of April, 1799, a dreadful 
plague, of a most destructive nature, manifested 
itself in the city of Old Fas, which soon after 
communicated itself to the new city. This un- 
paralleled calamity, carried off one or two the 
first day, three or four the second day, six or 
eight the third day, and increasing progressively, 
until the mortality amounted to two in the hun- 
dred of the aggregate population, continuing 
with unabating violence, ten, fifteen, or twenty 
days ; being of longer duration in old than in 
new towns ; then diminishing in a progressive 
proportion from one thousand a day to nine hun- 



THE PLAGUE. 



dred, then to eight hundred, and so on until it 
disappeared. Whatever recourse was had to 
medicine and to physicians was unavailing ; so 
that such expedients were at length totally re- 
linquished, and the people, overpowered by this 
terrible scourge, lost all hopes of surviving it. 

Whilst it raged in the town of Mogodor, a 
small village, Diabet, situated about two miles 
south-east of that place, remained uninfected, 
although the communication was open between 
them : on the thirty -fourth day, however, after 
its first appearance at Mogodor, this village was 
discovered to be infected, and the disorder raged 
with great violence, making dreadful havock 
among the human species for twenty-one days, 
carrying off, during that period, one hundred 
persons out of one hundred and thirty-three, the 
original population of the village, before the 
plague visited it ; none died after this, and those 
who were infected, recovered in the course of a 
month or two, some losing an eye, or the use of a 
leg or an arm. 

Many similar circumstances might" be here ad- 
duced relative to the numerous and populous 
villages dispersed through the extensive Shelluh 
province of Haha, all which shared a similar or 
a worse fate. Travelling through this province 
shortly after the plague had exhausted itself, I 
saw many uninhabited ruins, which I had before 
witnessed as flourishing villages \ on making en- 
quiry concerning the population of these dismal 



THE PLAGUE. 



169 



remains, I was informed that in one village, 
which contained six hundred inhabitants, four 
persons only had escaped the ravage. Other 
villages, which had contained four or five hun- 
dred, had only seven or eight survivors left to 
relate the calamities they had suffered. Families 
w^hich had retired to the country to avoid the 
infection, on returning to town, when all in- 
fection had apparently ceased, were generally- 
attacked, and died ; a singular instance of this 
kind happened at Mogodor, where, after the 
mortality had subsided, a corps of troops arrived 
from the city of Terodant, in the province of 
Suse, where the plague had been raging, and 
had subsided; these troops, after remaining 
three days at Mogodor, were attacked with the 
disease, and it raged exclusively among them 
for about a month, during which it carried off 
two-thirds of their original number, one hundred 
men ; during this interval the other inhabitants 
of the town were exempt from the disorder, 
though these troops were not confined to any 
particular quarter, many of them having had 
apartments in the houses of the inhabitants of 
the town. 

The destruction of the human species in the 
province of Suse was considerably greater than 
elsewhere ; Terodant, formerly the metropolis 
of a kingdom, but now that of Suse, lost, when 
the infection was at its acme, about eight hun- 
dred each day; the ruined, but still extensive 



170 



THE PLAGUE. 



city of Marocco c , lost one thousand each day ; 
the populous cities of Old and New Fas dimi- 
nished in population twelve or fifteen hundred 
each day d , insomuch, that in these extensive 
cities, the mortality was so great, that the living 
having not time to bury the dead, the bodies 
were deposited or thrown altogether into large 
holes, which, when nearly full, were covered 
over with earth. All regulations in matters of 
sepulture before observed were now no longer 
regarded ; things sacred and things prophane had 
now lost their distinction, and universal despair 
pervaded mankind. Young, healthy, and robust 
persons of full stamina, were, for the most part, 
attacked first, then women and children, and 
lastly, thin, sickly, emaciated, and old people. 

After this violent and deadly calamity had 
subsided, we beheld a general alteration in the 
fortunes and circumstances of men ; we saw per- 
sons who before the plague were common la- 
bourers, now in possession of thousands, and 
keeping horses without knowing how to ride 
them. Parties of this description were met 
wherever we went, and the men of family called 

€ I have been informed that there are still at Marocco, 
apartments wherein the dead were placed ; and that after 
the whole family was swept away the doors were built up, 
and remain so to this day. 

d There died, during the whole of the above periods, in 
the city of Marocco, 50,000 ; in Fas, 65,000 ; in Mogodor, 
4-500; and in Saffy, 5000; in all 124,500 souls! 



THE PLAGUE. 



171 



them in derision el wurata, the inheritors* c Pro- 
visions also became extremely cheap and abun- 
dant ; the flocks and herds had been left in the 
fields, and there was now no one to own them ; 
and the propensity to plunder, so notoriously 
attached to the character of the Arab, as well as 
to the Shelluh and Moor, was superseded by a 
conscientious regard to justice, originating from 
a continual apprehension of dissolution, and that 
the el khere*, as the plague was now called, 
was a judgment of the Omnipotent on the diso- 
bedience of man, and that it behoved every in- 
dividual to amend his conduct, as a preparation 
to his departure for paradise. 

The expense of labour at the same time en- 
creased enormously g , and never was equality in 
the human species more conspicuous than at this 
time ; when corn was to be ground, or bread 
baked, both were performed in the houses of the 
affluent, and prepared by themselves, for the 
very few people whom the plague had spared, 
were insufficient to administer to the wants of 
the rich and independent, and they were accord- 
ingly compelled to work for themselves, per- 

e Des gens parvenues, as the French express it ; or 
upstarts. 

f The good, or benediction. 

g At this time I received from Marocco a caravan of many 
camel-loads of bees-wax, in serrons containing 200 lbs. each ; 
I sent for workmen to place them one upon another, and they 
demanded one dollar per serron for so moving them. 



172 



THE PLAGUE. 



forming personally the menial offices of their re- 
spective families. 

The country being now depopulated, and much 
of the territory without owners, vast tribes of 
Arabs emigrated from their abodes in the interior 
of Sahara, and took possession of the country 
contiguous to the river Draha, as well as many 
districts in Suse ; and, in short, settling them- 
selves, and pitching their tents wherever they 
found a fertile country with little or no popu- 
lation. 

The symptoms of this plague varied in dif- 
ferent patients, the variety of age and constitu- 
tion gave it a like variety of appearance and cha- 
racter. Those who enjoyed perfect health were 
suddenly seized with head-aches and inflam- 
mations ; the tongue and throat became of a 
vivid red, the breath was drawn with difficulty, 
and was succeeded by sneezing and hoarseness ; 
when once settled in the stomach, it excited 
vomitings of black bile, attended with excessive 
torture, weakness, hiccough, and convulsion. 
Some were seized with sudden shivering, or de- 
lirium, and had a sensation of such intense 
inward heat, that they threw off their clothes, 
and would have walked about naked in quest of 
water wherein to plunge themselves. Cold water 
was eagerly resorted to by the unwary and im- 
prudent, and proved fatal to those who indulged 
in its momentary relief. Some had one, two, or 
more buboes, which formed themselves, and 



THE PLAGUE. 



173 



became often as large as a walnut, in the course 
of a day ; others had a similar number of car- 
buncles ; others had both buboes and carbuncles, 
which generally appeared in the groin, under the 
arm, or near the breast. Those who were af- 
fected h with a shivering, having no buboe, car- 
buncle, spots, or any other exterior disfiguration, 
were invariably carried off in less than twenty- 
four hours, and the body of the deceased became 
quickly putrified, so that it was indispensably 
necessary to bury it a few hours after dissolution. 
It is remarkable, that the birds of the air fled 
away from the abode of men, for none were to 
be seen during this calamitous period ; the 

h M'drob is an idiom in the Arabic language somewhat 
difficult to render into English ; it is well known that the 
Muhamedans are predestinarians, and that they believe in 
the existence of spirits, devils, &c. ; their idea of the plague is, 
that it is a good or blessing sent from God to clear the world 
of a superfluous population — that no medicine or precaution 
can cure or prevent it; that every one who is to be a victim 
to it is (mhtube) recorded in the Book of Fate ; that there are 
certain Genii who preside over the fate of men, and who 
sometimes discover themselves in various forms, having often 
legs similar to those of fowls : that these Genii are armed 
with arrows : that when a person is attacked by the plague, 
which is called in Arabic lamer, or the destiny or decree, he 
is shot by one of these Genii, and the sensation of the invi- 
sible wound is similar to that from a musquet-ball ; hence the 
universal application of M'drob to a person afflicted with the 
plague, i. e. he is shot ; and if he die, ufah ameruh, his des- 
tiny is completed or terminated (in this world). I scarcely 
ever yet saw the Muselman who did not affirm that he had at 
some time of his life seen these Genii, and they often appear, 
they say in rivers. 



174 



THE PLAGUE. 



hyaenas, on the contrary, visited the cemeteries, 
and sought the dead bodies to devour them. I 
recommended Mr. Baldwin's 1 invaluable remedy 
of olive oil, applied according to his directions ; 
several Jews, and some Muselmin k , were induced 
to try it, and I was afterwards visited by many, 
to whom I had recommended it, and had given 
them written directions in Arabic how to apply 
it : and I do not know any instance of its failing 
when persevered in, even after the infection had 
manifested itself. 

I have no doubt but the epidemy which made 
its appearance at Cadiz, and all along the 
southern shores of Spain, immediately as the 
plague was subsiding in West Barbary, was the 
same disorder with the one above described, 
suffering, after its passage to a Christian country, 
some variation, originating from the different 
modes of living, and other circumstances ; for 
nothing can be more opposite than the food, 
dress, customs, and manners of Muhamedans 
and Christians, notwithstanding the approxim- 
ation of Spain to Marocco. We have been cre- 
dibly informed, that it was communicated origi- 
nally to Spain, by two infected persons, who 
went from Tangier to Estapona, a small village 
on the opposite shore ; who, after eluding the 
vigilance of the guards, reached Cadiz. We have 
also been assured that it was communicated by 
some infected persons who landed in Spain, from 

' Late British Consul in Egypt. 

* Miiselman, sing. '. Muselmin. plut\ 



THE PLAGUE. 



175 



a vessel that had loaded produce at L'Araiche in 
West Barbary. Another account was, that a 
Spanish privateer, which had occasion to land 
its crew for the purpose of procuring water in 
some part of West Barbary, caught the infection 
from communicating with the natives, and after- 
wards proceeding to Cadiz, and spread it in that 
town and the adjacent country. 

It should be observed, for the information of 
those who may be desirous of investigating the 
nature of this extraordinary distemper, that, from 
its character and its symptoms, approximating to 
the peculiar plague, which (according to the 
before mentioned Arabic record) ravaged and 
depopulated West Barbary four centuries since, 
the Arabs and Moors were of opinion it would 
subside after the first year, and not appear again 
the next, as the Egyptian plague does; and 
agreeably to this opinion, it did not re-appear 
the second year : neither did St. John's day, or 
that season, affect its virulence ; but about that 
period there prevails along the coast of West 
Barbary, a trade-wind, which, beginning to blow 
in the month of May, continues throughout the 
months of June, July, and August, with little in- 
termission. It was apprehended that the influ- 
ence of this trade-wind, added to the supersti- 
tious opinion of the plague ceasing on St. John's 
day, would stop, or at least sensibly diminish the 
mortality ; but no such thing happened : the 
wind did set in, as it invariably does, about 
St. John's day ; the disorder, however, increased 



176 



THE PLAGUE. 



at that period, rather than diminished. Some 
persons were of opinion, that the infection main- 
tained its virulence till the last; that the decrease 
of mortality did not originate from a decrease of 
the miasma, but from a decrease of population, 
and a consequent want of subjects to prey upon ; 
and this indeed is a plausible idea ; but admit- 
ting it to be just, how are we to account for the 
almost invariable fatality of the disorder, when 
at its height, and the comparative innocence of 
it when on the decline ? for then, the chance to 
those who had it, was, that they would recover 
and survive the malady. 

The old men seemed to indulge in a supersti- 
tious tradition, that when this peculiar kind of 
epidemy attacks a country, it does not return or 
continue for three or more years, but disappears 
altogether, (after the first year,) and is followed 
the seventh year by contagious rheums and ex- 
pectoration, the violence of which lasts from 
three to seven days, but is not fatal. Whether 
this opinion be in general founded in truth I 
cannot determine ; but in the spring of the year 
1806, which was the seventh year from the ap- 
pearance of the plague at Fas in 1799, a species 
of influenza pervaded the whole country; the 
patient going to bed well, and, on rising in the 
morning, a thick phlegm was expectorated, ac- 
companied by a distressing rheum, or cold in the 
head, with a cough, which quickly reduced those 
affected to extreme weakness, but was seldom 
flital, continuing from three to seven days, with 



THE PLAGUE. 



177 



more or less violence, and then gradually dis- 
appearing. 

During the plague at Mogodor, the European 
merchants shut themselves up in their respective 
houses, as is the practice in the Levant ; I did 
not take this precaution, but occasionally rode 
out to take exercise on horseback. Riding one 
day out of the town, I met the Governor's 
brother, who asked me where I was going, when 
every other European was shut up ? " To the 
garden," I answered. — " And are you not aware 
that the garden and the adjacent country is full 
of (Jinune) departed souls, who are busy in 
smiting with the plague every one they meet ?" 
I could not help smiling, but told him, that I 
trusted to God only, who would not allow any 
of the Jinune to smite me unless it were his 
sovereign will, and that if it were, he could effect 
it without the agency of Jinune. On my return 
to town in the evening, the beach, from the 
town-gate to the sanctuary of Seedi, k Mogodole 
was covered with biers. My daily observations 
convinced me that the epidemy was not caught 
by approach, unless that approach was accom- 
panied by an inhaling of the breath, or by touch- 
ing the infected person ; I therefore had a se- 
paration made across the gallery, inside of my 
house, between the kitchen and dining parlour, 
of the width of three feet, which is sufficiently 

k A sanctuary a mile south-east of the town of Mogodor, 
from whence the town receives its name. 



178 



THE PLAGUE. 



wide to prevent the inhaling the breath of a 
person. From this partition or table of separ- 
ation I took the dishes, and after dinner returned 
them to the same place, suffering none of the 
servants to come near me ; and in the ac- 
counting-house, I had a partition made to pre- 
vent the too near approach of any person who 
might call on business ; and this precaution I 
firmly believe to be all that is necessary, added 
to that of receiving money through vinegar, and 
taking care not to touch or smell infectious 
substances. 

Fear had an extraordinary effect in disposing 
the body to receive the infection ; and those who 
were subject thereto, invariably caught the 
malady, which was for the most part fatal. At 
the breaking out of the plague at Mogodor, 
there were two medical men, an Italian and a 
Frenchman, the latter, a man of science, a great 
botanist, and of an acute discrimination ; they, 
however, did not remain, but took the first op- 
portunity of leaving the place for Teneriffe, so 
that the few Europeans had no expectation of 
any medical assistance except that of the natives. 
Plaisters of gum ammoniac, and the juice of 
the leaves of the opuntia, or kermuse ensarrah, 
i. e. prickly pear, were universally applied to the 
carbuncles, as well as to the buboes, which quickly 
brought them to suppuration : many of the people 
of property took copious draughts of coffee and 
Peruvian bark. The Vinaigre de quatre voleurs, 
Avas used by many, also camphor, smoking 



THE PLAGUE. 



179 



tobacco, or fumigations of gum Sandrac ; straw 
was also burned by some, who were of opinion, 
that any thing which produced abundance of 
smoke, was sufficient to purify the air of pestilen- 
tial effluvia. 

During the existence of the plague, I had 
been in the chambers of men on their death-bed : 
I had had Europeans at my table, who were in- 
fected, as well as Moors, who actually had buboes 
on them ; I took no other precaution than that 
of separation, carefully avoiding to touch the 
hand, or inhale the breath ; and, notwithstand- 
ing what may have been said, I am decidedly of 
opinion that the plague, at least this peculiar 
species of it, is not produced by any infectious 
principle in the atmosphere, but caught solely 
by touching infected substances, or inhaling the 
breath of those who are diseased; and that it 
must not be confounded with the common plague 
of Egypt, or Constantinople, being a malady of 
a much more desperate and destructive kind. It 
has been said, by persons who have discussed the 
nature and character of the plague, that the cul- 
tivation of a country, the draining of the lands, 
and other agricultural improvements, tend to 
eradicate or diminish it ; but, at the same time, 
we have seen countries depopulated where there 
was no morass, or stagnate water for many days' 
journey, nor even a tree to impede the current 
of air, or a town, nor any thing but encampments 
of Arabs, who procured water from wells of a 
great depth, and inhabited plains so extensive 



180 



THE PLAGUE. 



and uniform, that they resemble the sea, and are 
so similar in appearance after, as well as before 
sun-rise, that if the eye could abstract itself 
from the spot immediately surrounding the spec- 
tator, it could not be ascertained whether it were 
sea or land. 

1 shall now subjoin a few cases for the further 
elucidation of this distemper, hoping that the 
medical reader will pardon any inaccuracy ori- 
ginating from my not being a professional man. 

Case I. — One afternoon, I went into the kit- 
chen, and saw the cook making the bread ; he 
appeared in good health and spirits ; I after- 
wards went into the adjoining parlour, and took 
up a book to read ; in half an hour the same man 
came to the door of the room, with his eyes 
starting from his head, and his bed-clothes, &c. 
in his hands, saying, " open the gate for me, for 
I am (m'dorb) smitten." I was astonished at the 
sudden transition, and desired him to go out, and 
I would follow and shut the gate. The next 
morning he sent his wife out on an errand, and 
got out of bed, and came to the gate half- 
dressed, saying that he was quite recovered, and 
desired I would let him in. I did not, however, 
think it safe to admit him, but told him to go 
back to his house for a few days, until he should 
be able to ascertain that he was quite well ; he 
accordingly returned to his apartments, but 
expired that evening, and before day-break his 
body was in such a state, that his feet were 
actually putrified. His wife, by attending on him, 



THE PLAGUE, 



181 



caught the infection, having a carbuncle, and 
also buboes, and was confined two months before 
she recovered. 

Case II. — L'Hage Hamed O Bryhim, the old 
governor of Mogodor, had twelve or more chil- 
dren, and four wives, who were all attacked, and 
died (except only one young wife) ; he attended 
them successively to the grave, and notwith- 
standing that he assisted in performing the reli- 
gious ceremony of washing the body, he never 
himself caught the infection ; he lived some 
years afterwards, and out of the whole house- 
hold, consisting of wives, concubines, children, 
and slaves, he had but one person left, which 
was the before-mentioned young wife : this lady, 
however, had received the infection, and was 
confined some time before she recovered. 

Case III. — Hamed ben A — — was smitten 
with the plague, which he compared to the sens- 
ation of two musket balls fired at him, one in 
each thigh ; a giddiness and delirium succeeded, 
and immediately afterwards a green vomiting, 
and he fell senseless to the ground ; a short time 
afterwards, on the two places where he had felt 
as if shot, biles or buboes formed, and on sup- 
purating, discharged a foetid black pus ; a (jim- 
mera) carbuncle on the joint of the arm near the 
elbow was full of thin ichor, contained in an ele- 
vated skin, surrounded by a burning red colour; 
after three months' confinement, being reduced 
to a skeleton, the disorder appeared to have ex- 
hausted itself, and he began to recover his 



THE PLAGUE. 



strength, which in another month was fully re- 
established. It was an observation founded on 
daily experience, during the prevalence of this 
disorder, that those who were attacked with a 
nausea at the stomach, and a subsequent vomit- 
ing of green or yellow bile, recovered after suf- 
fering in various degrees, and that those who 
were affected with giddiness, or delirium, fol- 
lowed by a discharge or vomiting of black bile, 
invariably died after lingering one, two, or three 
days, their bodies being covered with small black 
spots similar to grains of gun-powder; in this 
state, however, they possessed their intellects, 
and spoke rationally till their dissolution. 

When the constitution was not disposed, or had 
not vigour enough to throw the miasma to the 
surface in the form of biles, buboes, carbuncles, 
or blackish spots, the virulence is supposed to 
have operated inwardly, or on the vital parts, 
and the patient died in less than twenty-four 
hours, without any exterior disfiguration. 

Case IV. — It was reported that the Sultan 
had the plague twice during the season, as many 
others had ; so that the idea of its attacking like 
the small-pox, a person but once in his life, is 
refuted : the Sultan was cured by large doses of 
Peruvian bark frequently repeated, and it was 
said that he found such infinite benefit from it, 
that lie advised his brothers never to travel 
without having a good supply. The Emperor, 
since the plague, always has by him a sufficient 
quantity of quill bark to supply his emergency, 



THE PLAGUE. 



183 



Case V. — H. L. was smitten with the plague, 
which affected him by a pain similar to that of a 
long needle (as he expressed himself) repeatedly 
plunged into his groin. In an hour or two after- 
wards, a (jimmera) carbuncle appeared in the 
groin, which continued enlarging three days, at 
the expiration of which period he could neither 
support the pain, nor conceal his sensations ; he 
laid himself down on a couch ; an Arabian doctor, 
applied to the carbuncles the testicles of a ram 
cut in half, whilst the vital warmth was still in 
them ; the carbuncle on the third day was en- 
creased to the size of a small orange ; the before- 
mentioned remedy was daily applied during thirty 
days, after which he resorted to cataplasms of 
the juice of the (opuntia) prickly pear-tree, 
(Jeshook) gum ammoniac, and (zite el aud) oil 
of olives, of each one-third : this was intended 
to promote suppuration, which was soon effected; 
there remained after the suppuration a large 
vacuity, which was daily filled with fine hemp 
dipped in honey; by means of this application the 
wound filled up, and the whole was well in thirty- 
nine days. 

Case VI. — El H — t — e, a trading Jew of 
Mogodor, w r as sorely afflicted ; he called upon 
me, and requested some remedy ; I advised him 
to use oil of olives, and having Mr. Baldwin's 
mode of administering it I transcribed it in 

1 Mr. Baldwin observed, that, whilst the plague ravaged 
Egypt, the dealers in oil were not affected with the epidemy ; 
and he accordingly recommended people to anoint themselves 
with oil every day as a remedy. 



184 



THE VLAGVE. 



the Arabic language, and gave it to him ; he 
followed the prescription, and assured me, about 
six weeks afterwards, that (with the blessing of 
God) he had preserved his life by that remedy 
only ; he said, that after having been anointed 
with oil, his skin became harsh and dry like the 
scales of a fish, but that in half an hour more, 
a profuse perspiration came on, and continued 
for another half hour, after which he expe- 
rienced relief : this he repeated forty days, when 
he was quite recovered. 

Case VII. — Moh— m'd ben A fell 

suddenly down in the street ; he was conveyed 
home ; three carbuncles and five buboes ap- 
peared soon after in his groin, under the joint 
of his knee, and arm-pits, and inside the elbow ; 
he died in three hours after the attack. 

Case VIII. — L. R. was suddenly smitten 
with this dreadful calamity, whilst looking over 
some Marocco leather ; he fell instantaneously ; 
afterwards, when he had recovered his senses, 
he described the sensation as that of the pricking 
of needles, at every part wherein the carbuncles 
afterwards appeared : he died the same day in 
defiance of medicine. 

Case IX. — Mr. Pacifico, a merchant, was 
attacked, and felt a pricking pain down the 
inside of the thick part of the thigh, near the 
sinews ; he was obliged to go to bed. I visited 
him the next day, and was going to approach 
him, but he exclaimed, " Do not come near 
me ; for although 1 know I have not the pre- 



THE PLAGUE. 



18$ 



vailing distemper, yet your friends, if you touch 
me, may persuade you otherwise, and that might 
alarm you; I shall, I hope, be well in a few 
days." I took the hint of Don Pedro de Vic- 
toria, a Spanish gentleman, who was in the 
room, who, offering me a sagar, I smoked it, 
and then departed ; the next day the patient 
died. He was attended during his illness by 
the philanthropic Monsieur Soubremont, who 
did not stir from his bed-side till he expired ; 
but after exposing himself in this manner, 
escaped the infection, which proceeded, as he 
thought, from his constantly having a pipe in 
his mouth. 

Case X. — Two of the principal Jews of the 
town giving themselves up, and having no hope, 
were willing to employ the remainder of their 
lives in affording assistance to the dying and 
the dead, by washing the bodies and interring 
them ; this business they performed during 
thirty or forty days, during all which time they 
were not attacked : when the plague had nearly 
subsided, and they began again to cherish hopes 
of surviving the calamity, they were both smitten, 
but after a few days' illness recovered, and are 
now living. 

From this last case, as well as from many 
others similar, but too numerous here to reca- 
pitulate, it appears that the human constitution 
requires a certain miasma, to prepare it to receive 
the pestilential infection. 

General Observation. — When the carbuncles 
or buboes appeared to have a blackish rim round 



186 



THE PLAGUE. 



their base, the case of that patient was despe- 
rate, and invariably fatal. Sometimes the whole 
body was covered with black spots like partridge- 
shot ; such patients always fell victims to the 
disorder, and those who felt the blow internally, 
showing no external disfiguration, seldom sur- 
vived more than a few hours. 

The plague appears to visit this country about 
once in every twenty years m : the last visitation 
was in 1799 and 1800, being more fatal than 
any ever before known. 



Observations respecting the Plague that prevailed last 
Year in West Barbary, and which was imported from 
Egypt ; communicated by the Author to the Editor of 
the Quarterly Journal of Literature, Science, and the 
Arts, edited at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, 
No. 15, published in October, 1819. 

His Majesty's ship, which was lying in the 
port of Alexandria, when Colonel Fitzclarence 
passed through Egypt, from India, on his way 
to England, convoyed to Tangier a vessel which 
had on board two of the sons of Muley Soliman, 
emperor of Marocco ; on their arrival at Tangier, 
the princes immediately landed and proceeded 
to their father at Fas; but it was discovered 
by the governor or alkaid of Tangier, that 
during the passage some persons had died ; and 

m This opinion is confirmed by the plague, being now 
(1820) in Marocco just twenty years since the last plague. 
65,000 persons have been lately carried off by this disease in 
the cities of Old and New Fas. 



THE PLAGUE. 



187 



accordingly the alkaid would not suffer any of 
the passengers to land, except the princes, until 
he should have received orders from the Em- 
peror how to act ; he accordingly wrote to Fas, 
for the imperial orders, and in the mean time 
the princes arrived, and presented themselves 
to the emperor : the latter wrote to the alkaid, 
that as the princes had been suffered to land, 
it would be unjust to prohibit the other pas- 
sengers from coming ashore also. He therefore 
ordered the alkaid to suffer all the passengers, 
together with their baggage, to be landed, and 
soon afterwards the plague appeared at Fas, and 
at Tangier. Thus the contagion which is now 
ravaging West Barbary was imported from 
Egypt. It does not appear that the mortality 
is, or has been, during its acme at Fas, any 
thing comparable to what it was during the 
plague that ravaged this country in 1799 n , and 

It has been asserted by a physician who has lately written, 
Observations on contagion, as it relates to the plague and 
other epidemical diseases, reviewed in article 20thof theBritish 
Revieiv, and London Critical Journal, published in May 
last, that I have asserted that the deaths during the pre- 
valence of that disorder in West Barbary in 1799, amounted 
to 124f,500; but on a reference to my account of Marocco, 
Timbuctoo, &c, 2d or 3d edition, note, page 174, it will 
appear, that this mortality was that of two cities, and two 
sea-ports only, viz., the cities of Fas and Marocco, and the 
ports of SafFy and Mogodor ; the mortality, however, was 
equally great in the imperial cities of Mequinas and Terodant, 
and in the sea-port towns of Tetuan, Tangier, Arzilla, 
L'Araich, Salee, Rabat, Dar el Bieda, Azamore, Mazagan, 
and Santa Cruz, or Agadeer ; and considerably greater 



188 



THE PLAGUE. 



which carried off more than two-thirds of the 
population of the empire. 

Whence proceeds this difference? Is it a 
different species of plague, and not so deadly a 
contagion ? Or is it because the remedy of 
olive oil, applied and recommended generally 
by me, and by some other Europeans during the 
plague of 1799, is now made public and gene- 
rally administered ? This is an inquiry well de- 
serving the attention of scientific men. And 
His Majesty's ministers might procure the in- 
formation from the British consul at Tangier, 
or from the governor of Gibraltar : perhaps the 
truth is, that the contagion is of a more mild 
character. 

With regard to the remedy of olive oil ap- 
plied internally, I should, myself, be disposed 
to doubt its efficacy unless M. Cola90, the 



among the populous and numerous encampments of the 
Arabs, throughout the various provinces of the empire ; not 
to mention the incredible mortality in the castles, towns, and 
other walled habitations of the Shelluh province of Haha, 
the first province, travelling from the shores of the Mediter- 
ranean, where the people live in walled habitations, the sea- 
ports excepted. 

Mr. Colaco, having lately observed that oil was used ex- 
ternally to anoint the body, as a preservative against the 
plague ; conceived the idea of administering this simple 
remedy internally to persons already infected ; numerous 
experiments were made by this gentleman, who administered 
from four to eight oz. olive oil at a dose ; and out of 300 
individuals already infected, who resorted to this remedy, 
only twelve died. 



THE PLAGUE. 



Portuguese consul at L'Araich, is competent 
to declare, from his own knowledge and expe- 
rience, that this remedy has been administered 
effectually by him to persons having the plague, 
who did not also use the friction with oil. 
I say, till this can be ascertained, I think the 
remedy of oil applied externally, should not be 
forsaken ; as it has been proved during the plague 
in Africa, in 1799, to be infallible, and therefore 
indispensable to people whose vocation may lead 
them to associate with, or to touch or bury the 
infected. For the rest, such persons as are 
not compelled to associate with the infected, 
may effectually avoid the contagion, however 
violent and deadly it may be, by avoiding con- 
tact. I am so perfectly convinced of this fact, 
from the experience and observation I have 
made during my residence at Mogodor, whilst 
the plague raged there in 1799, that I would not 
object to go to any country, although it were 
rotten with the plague, provided my going- 
would benefit mankind, or serve any useful 
purpose \ and I would use no fumigation, or 
any other remedy but what I actually used 
at Mogodor in 1799. I am so convinced 
from my own repeated and daily experience, 
that the most deadly plague is as easy to 
be avoided by strictly adhering to the 

PRINCIPLE OF AVOIDING PERSONAL CONTACT AND 
INHALATION, AND THE CONTACT OF INFECTIOUS 

substances, that I would ride or walk through 
the most populous and deeply-infected city, as 



190 



THE PLAGUE. 



1 have done before, without any other precaution 
than that of a segar in my mouth, when, by 
avoiding contact and inhalation, I should most 
assuredly be free from the danger of infection ! ! 

When these precautions are strictly observed, 
I maintain, (in opposition to all the theoretical 
dogmas that have lately been propagated) that 
there is no more danger of infection with the 
plague, than there is of infection from any 
common cold or rheum. 



JOURNEY FROM TANGIER TO RABAT 

THROUGH THE PLAINS OF SEBOO t 

To accompany Dr. Bell, in Company with the Prince Muley 
Teib and an Army of Cavalry. 

Officiated as Interpreter between the Prince and 
Dr. Bell. — Description of Food sent to us by the 
Prince. — The Plains of M f sharrah Rummellah, an 
incomparable Jine and productive Country. — The 
Cavalry of the Amorites, — their unique Observations 
on Dr. Bell. — their mean Opinion of his Art, because 
he could not cure Death. — Passage of the River Seboo 
on Rafts of inflated Skins. — Spacious Tent of Goafs 
Hair erected for the Sheik, and appropriated to the 
Use of the Prince. — Description of the magnificent 
Plains of M'sharrah Rummellah and Seboo. — Arabian 
Royalty. — Prodigious Quantity of Corn grown in these 
Plains. — Matamores, what they are. — Mode of Reap- 
ing* — The Prince presents the Doctor with a Horse, 
and approves of his Medicines. — The Prince and the 
Doctor depart south-eastwardly, and the Author pur- 
sues his Journey to Rabat and Mogodor. 

I happened to be at Tangier when the (shereef) 
prince Muley Teib was collecting an army to 
join that of the emperor, which was on the 
banks of the river Morbeya, (see the map of 
West Barbary, p. 55,) in Shawiya. Doctor 
Bell, who had then recently arrived from 
Gibraltar, to attend the prince, whose lungs 
were affected, was to accompany his Royal 
Highness ; and, as I had nothing to detain me 



THE AMORITES. 



in Tangier, and was going to Rabat, I engaged 
to accompany the doctor, and offered to officiate 
as interpreter between him and the prince till 
our arrival at Rabat - y after which I should leave 
him, and proceed to Mogodor. The Doctor 
readily assented to my proposition, because it 
is considered more respectable in this country, 
where the Jews are reprobated and despised, 
to have for an interpreter a Christian ; the 
prince also, when he heard that I had thus 
offered my services, expressed himself much 
gratified, and I received a very polite message 
from him. The next day we started from Tan- 
gier, in the morning at ten o'clock. The army 
halted east of Arzilla, in the plains : the prince 
sat down under the shade of a tree to dinner, 
Dr. Bell and myself under another tree, about 
100 yards distant. The Prince sent us a capon 
stewed a-la-maaresque with saffron, the exquisite 
flavour of which proved that he had an excellent 
cook with him. We departed in half an hour ; 
and the tents were pitched at sunset, in a cam- 
paign country, between Arzilla and L'Araich. 
The Ait- Amor or Amorites who formed a part of 
this army, a wild, uncontrolled race of Berebbers, 
saw the attention that was paid by the shereef to 
the doctor, and after dinner they were determined 
to see what sort of a fellow this doctor was, 
whom the shereef treated so familiarly. They 
galloped their high-mettled horses up to the 
doctor ; and stopping short to examine him, 
made a reflection on him and returned. The 

li 



THE AMORITES. 



193 



doctor observed the wild and tattered appear- 
ance of these excellent horsemen. There was 
nothing evil-minded in them ; but their observ- 
ations were remarkable. The Doctor wore 
powder, a custom unknown in this country : one 
party would say, " He has got lime in his head to 
kill the vermin another would observe that "He 
was old or grey-headed." The Doctor was fond 
of his bottle, and some said skurren bel akkaran, 
i. e. " The a son of a cuckold is drunk." Others 
would bawl out, Wa Tebeeb washka't dowie el- 
moot, i.e. "O, doctor, canst thou cure death ?" To 
which he replied, " No." — " Then," returned 
they, " thou art no doctor !" On the following 
morning at sun-rise we proceeded, and reached 
1/ Araich at twelve o'clock ; we did not enter the 
town, but dined in the plains, and proceeding 
afterwards out of the main road, we directed our 
course south-east, till we reached a most beautiful 
and very extensive plain, called M'sharrah Rum- 
mellah. This plain was covered with numerous 
and immense flocks of sheep and horned cattle, 
and is many times more extensive than Salisbury 
plain. We pitched our tents near a very 
extensive and populous douar of Arabs. We de- 
parted the next morning at sun-rise, and reached 
the plains of the river Seboo about two o'clock 
in the afternoon ; which plains are a continu- 
ation of those of M'sharrah Rummellah ; the 

a Intoxication is a damnable vice with these people ; and 
when they remark drunkenness, they invariably add an op^ 
probrium to the observation. 



194 m'sharrah rummellah. 



army were engaged the remaining part of the 
day and the whole night crossing the river 
Seboo, on rafts made of inflated cow-hides, 
covered with planks and straw. The river 
is here about twenty yards wide, but very 
deep and rapid; the Arabs had a long and 
spacious sheik's tent pitched for the reception 
of the prince, about forty feet long and fifteen 
wide, somewhat similar to the hull of a ship 
reversed, having the long side open to the sun. 
These tents are the palace of the sheik of the 
Arabs, and are erected on great occasions only, 
such as that of the emperor, or a prince passing 
through their territory. The plains of M'sharrah 
Rummellah are one hundred and fifty British 
miles in circumference, perfectly flat, without 
a stone, a tree, a hedge, or a ditch ; with the 
majestic river Seboo passing through the centre 
of the plain. The soil of this territory, which, 
in the hands of Europeans, might be made a 
terrestrial paradise, is a rich, productive, decom- 
posed vegetable earth, which extends, as we 
perceived from various chasms, to the depth of 
several feet from the surface. It produces in- 
credible quantities of the finest wheat, of a hard 
grain, very large and long, clear as amber, 
and yielding a prodigious increase of flour, so 
that a saa of wheat b produces a saa and a sixth 
of flour. The prince, Muley Teeb, seated on 

b A saa of wheat is little less than two Winchester bushelso 
The wheat is very heavy, and this measure weighs 1001b., 
equal to 1191b. English. 



A PRODUCTIVE COUNTRY. 



195 



an eminence in this spacious tent, resembled 
what we should imagine the patriarch Abraham 
to have been, entertaining his friends ; or Saul 
upon his throne, with his javelin in his hand. 
He had twelve lanciers, six on each side of him 
in a row, standing with their lances erect, the 
Prince having one in his hand, It appears that 
this is the Arabian etiquette ; and the Arabs ap- 
peared much gratified that the prince had per- 
sonified their sheik, with all the paraphernalia 
of royalty. His Royal Highness, whose mind 
seemed moved with the beauty of this country, 
sent for the Doctor and myself, and asked us 
if we had ever seen such a country before. We 
frankly confessed we had not. The prince smiled, 
and said, that the (sehelf) plain we were on, 
although extremely populous, and full of douars, 
could grow seventeen times as much corn as the 
inhabitants could consume ; that there was then 
corn enough in the matamores c of this plain, to 
supply {Z£/ garb kamel) the whole of El garb, 
i. e. the country north of the river Morbeya. d 

• The matamores are subterraneous depositories for corn, 
in which they preserve the wheat sound and good thirty 
years ; but when a raatamore is once opened, it is expe- 
dient to consume the corn immediately, otherwise it contracts 
what is called the matamore twang. These depositories are 
indispensable in countries exposed to drought, scarcity, or 
locusts, and should be adopted in our colony of South 
Africa, The art of constructing them is very peculiar, and 
I devoted some time in learning it. 

d See the map of West Barbary. 



196 



PRODUCTIVE COUNTRY. 



We took our leave of the Prince, who ap- 
peared much gratified with the hospitable enter- 
tainment of the Arabs, and with their patriarchal 
style of living, and sent us an enormous dish of 
cuscasoe, coloured with saffron. 

Encamped in the centre of this plain, when 
the sun had set, and the twilight came on, we 
could have imagined ourselves in the midst of 
the ocean. Not a cloud was in the sky, nor a 
hill on the land, to intercept the uniformity of 
the horizon ; the moon shone so bright, that 
we could read by its light, and the universal 
novelty of the scene resembled enchantment. 

On this rich land they use no dung : they 
reap the corn about a foot from the ground, and 
burn the stubble. The produce is greater 
even than that of the new-dyke land, on 
the banks of the river Ems, in North Holland. 
The allotments of land are ascertained by a 
large stone, placed at each corner of the square, 
when the reapers reach these stones, they desist 
from proceeding or reaping the corn of other 
proprietors. We rose early in the morning, 
and found the air of this terrestrial paradise 
strongly perfumed with millions of odoriferous 
flowers, that were growing spontaneously through- 
out the plains. Walking with Dr. Bell through 
the Prince's camp, we saw a beautiful grey 
horse. The doctor admired it. I recommended 
him to ask the Prince for it, he was not ac- 
quainted with the customs of this country, and 
ridiculed my observation. " If you wish to have 



CONDUCT OF THE PRINCt'c 



197 



that horse, Doctor," said I, " I will engage that 
the Prince will get it lor you. 1 represented im- 
mediately to His Royal Highness, that the 
Doctor had taken a liking to the horse, and 
would wish to buy it. " Not buy it," said the 
Prince; "he will receive it as a present from me. 
Tell him, he deserves seven horses for the benefit 
he has done me : all doctors that I have here- 
tofore had have taken twenty-four hours to 
give me ease ; he relieves me in one. Tell him so," 
said the prince, " and that he (massab ala geni- 
bund) is in the number of my dearest friends. 
(e jee/c elkhere attibib u asselem\ Good be 
with you, doctor, and peace be with you." Thus 
ended the negociation for the horse. I found 
afterwards that it belonged to a sheik of the 
Arab province of Beni Hassen, who regretted 
parting with it, but the Prince gave him 
the value of it, and much courtesy withal. We 
struck our tents next morning at eleven o'clock, 
and, travelling southward, the Prince received 
an express from the Emperor to join his imperial 
army forthwith : accordingly the Prince and his 
doctor departed south-east, and I took leave of 
them, and pursued my journey to Rabat. 



198 



OF 

THE EXCAVATED RESIDENCES 

OF THE 

INHABITANTS OF ATLAS : 

THE 

ACEPHALI y HEL SHUAL, AND HEL ELKILLEB. 

The Discovery of Africa not to be effected by the present 
System of solitary Travellers ; but by a grand Plan^ 
with a numerous Company; beginning with Commerce, 
as the natural Prelude to Discovery, the Fore-runner 
of Civilization, and a preliminary Step, indispensable 
to the Conversion of the native Negroes to Christianity, 

The inhabitants of the snowy or upper re- 
gions of the Atlas live, during the months of 
November, December, January, February, and 
half of March, in caves or excavations in the 
mountains ; the snow then disappears, and they 
begin to cultivate the earth. 

I have repeatedly heard reports of the {Hel el 
KilleVi) dog-faced race ; of the {Hel Shual,) 
tailed race ; and of the race having one eye b , 

* Apollonius Rhodius calls these people nfiucw^ 9 or half- 
dogs. 

b The ingenious author of Philosophic Researches con- 
cerning the Americans, speaking of a race which appear to 
resemble the Acephali of Herodotus, or the race of men 



THE ACEPHAIT. 



199 



and that in the breast. It is extremely difficult 
to ascertain the origin of these reports, which are 
so involved in metaphor that the signification is 
not intelligible to Europeans; their existence is not 
doubted, however, in Africa. Of the Hel El Kil- 
lebsome ignorant people affirm that the Almighty 
transformed one of the tribes of the Jews into 
these people, and that these are their descend- 
ants ; others report them to be a mongrel breed, 
between the human and ape species ; their 
strength is said to be very great. The Africans 
assert with considerable confidence, which is 
corroborated, that the Hel Shual have a tail 
half a cubit long ; that they inhabit a district 
in the Desert at an immense distance south-east 
of Marocco ; that the Hel El Killeb c are in a 



having one eye, and that in their chest, says, " There is in 
Canibar a race of savages who have hardly any neck, and 
whose shoulders reach up to their ears. This monstrous ap- 
pearance is artificial, and to give it to their children they put 
enormous weights upon their heads, so as to iKdtce the verte- 
brae of the neck enter, if we may so say, the channel bone, 
(clavicule.) These barbarians, from a distance, seem to 
have their mouth in the breast ; and might well enough, in 
ignorant and enthusiastic travellers, serve to revive the fable 
of the Acephaii, or men without heads.'' (See Larcher's 
Notes on Herodotus's Melpomene, cap. 191.) — Saint Au- 
gustin, whose veracity is scarcely to be doubted, declared in 
his thirty-third sermon, intituled " A ses Freres dans le De- 
sert" — " Avoir vti €n Ethiopie des homines et des femmes sans 
t&c avec des grands yeux sur le poitrine. 

c We have heard of a pig-faced lady ; if there is such a 



200 



A PLAN FOK THE 



similar direction ; that the latter are diminutive, 
being about two or three cubits d in height ; that 
they exclaim bak, bale, bak, and that they have 
a few articulate sounds, which they mutually 
understand among themselves ; that they are ex- 
tremely swift of foot, and run as fast as horses. 
The Arimaspi of Herodotus are called by the 
Arabs Hel Ferdie y these are represented by the 
Arabs of the Desert as living at the foot of the 
lofty mountains of the Moon, near Abyssinia : 
the male and female are equally without hair on 
their head, having large chins and nostrils, like 
the ape species ; they are said to have a lan- 
guage of their own ; their costume is a jela- 
bea e , and a belt, without shoes or head dress ; 
their country is said to abound in gold. It is 
" a consummation devoutly to be wished," that 
our knowledge of Africa should increase so as 
to enable us to unravel the mystery of these 
doubtful reports, to ascertain the degree of cre- 
dit that is due to these mysterious traditions. 
These desiderata, however, can hardly be ex- 
pected, whilst the present injudicious plans for 



person, there might also be a pig-faced gentleman, and these 
might generate a pig-faced race ; and if a pig-faced race, 
why not a dog-faced race ? 

e Seven Cubits make four English yards. 

d The best description I can give of a jelabea is this: Take 
a large sack and cut a hole in the bottom, big enough to ad- 
mit the head; then cut the two bottom corners off to admit 
the arms: this garment will then resemble the jelabea. 



DISCOVERY OF AFRICA. 



201 



the discovery of Africa are persevered in. We 
must, if we desire to discover effectually the hid- 
den recesses and reported wonders of this con- 
tinent, adopt plans and schemes very different 
from any that have hitherto been suggested ; 
we must adopt a grand system upon an ex- 
tensive scale, a system directed and moved by 
a person competent to so great an under- 
taking. The head or director of such an 
expedition should be master of the general tra- 
velling and trafficking language of Africa, the 
modern Arabic : he should moreover be ac- 
quainted with the character of the people, 
their habits, modes of life, religious prejudices, 
and fanaticism. A grand plan, thus directed, 
could hardly fail to secure the command of the 
commerce of Africa to Great Britain. Then 
the discovery of the inmost recesses would fol- 
low the path of commerce, and that continent, 
which has baffled the researches of the moderns 
as well as of the ancients, would lay open its 
treasures to modern Europe, and civilisation 
would be the natural result. Then would be the 
period to attempt the conversion of the Negroes 
to Christianity ; and the standard of peace and 
good will towards men might be successfully 
planted on the banks of the Nile El Kabeer> or 
Nile Assudan, the Great Nile, or Nile of Su- 
dan, or Nigritia, commonly called the Nig^r. 



202 



CAUTIONS 

TO BE USED IN TRAVELLING. 

Danger of travelling after San-set. — The Emperor holds 
himself accountable for Thefts committed on Travellers, 
whilst travelling between the rising and the setting Sun. 
— Emigration of Arabs. — Patriarchal Style of liv- 
ing among the Arabs ; Food, Clothing, domestic Looms, 
and Manufactures. — Riches of the Arabs calculated by 
the Number of Camels they possess. — Arabian Women 
are good Figures, and have personal Beauty ; delicate 
in their Food ; poetical Geniuses ; Dancing and Amuse- 
ments ; Musical Instruments ; their Manners are cour- 
teous. 

Travellers in West and South Barbary should 
never be out after sun-set : it is not safe to travel 
in many parts of the country during the night. 
The emperor holds himself accountable for 
thefts committed between the rising and the set- 
ting sun ; so that, if a traveller be robbed of pro- 
perty, the value should be ascertained, and an 
application being made to the bashaw of the 
province where the robbery was committed it 
will be restored forthwith ; but if there be any 
demur, an application should be made to the 
Emperor, personally, if possible, but if not, by 
letter ; and the district is immediately ordered to 
pay double the loss, one half to the person rob- 
bed, and the other half to the Imperial treasury. 



EMIGRATION OF BEDOUINS. 203 

These robberies, however, rarely occur ; for the 
bashaws of the provinces and the alkaids of 
the dollars feel it a duty incumbent on them to 
protect all travellers and strangers ; so that they 
would, in the event of a robbery being com- 
mitted, expose themselves to a severe reprimand 
from the emperor, and an intimation that they 
were, by suffering such irregularity, incompe- 
tent to their situation, and would be liable to a 
heavy fine, or a discharge from their office, for 
neglect of vigilance, which, in this country, is con- 
sidered very reprehensible. 

Travelling through the province of Suse, 
I once witnessed the emigration of an extensive 
douar of Arabs, amounting to about 200 fami- 
lies. They were just leaving their habitation, 
where they had been encamped only a few 
months : it was a fine grazing country ; the 
camels, horses, mules, asses, oxen and cows, 
were all laden with the tents and baggage of 
these wanderers. On enquiring the cause of 
this emigration, I was told that the inhabit- 
ants were infested with musquitoes and fleas to 
such a degree, that they had all unanimously re- 
solved to emigrate to another place, which they 
had fixed upon, and that they would reach it by 
night. These wandering Arabs, without any 
fixed habitation, are of a restless, ungovernable 
spirit : they never cultivate the earth, as do the 
Arabs of the plains of Marocco, but live, for 
the most part, on camels' milk, occasionally 
killing a camel or a goat for food ; grazing their 



204 CUSTOMS OF THE ARABS, AND 

camels in the adjacent country : they live in the 
true Patriarchal style, and seek the means of 
supplying all their wants within themselves. To 
effect this purpose, they barter a few of their 
camels for wool, and thus supply themselves 
with that article for clothing, which is made in 
every {heyma) Arab tent, by the women, at 
their own respective looms ; each female being 
the manufacturer for her own family. The 
cloth is wove in pieces of seven cubits long and 
about two and a half broad, of the natural co- 
lour of the wool : these pieces of cloth are after- 
wards converted into cioaks, mantles, and tu- 
nics. Those who choose to indulge in the lux- 
ury of dress, by wearing linen, or turbans, send 
a few goat- skins, collected from the goats that 
have served them occasionally for food, to Mo- 
godor, or Marocco, or barter them with some 
Jews for linen or shoes, and thus supply all their 
wants ; so that their resources considerably ex- 
ceed their wants, for some of them have several 
thousand camels which cost them nothing. 
These animals browse on the bushes in the en- 
virons of their habitations, and are continually 
increasing and multiplying. They never kill 
any animal for food until full grown : this cus- 
tom, from which the Arab never departs, is ma- 
nifestly calculated to increase property, which, 
being invested in camels, is transportable, with- 
out trouble or expense, wherever they choose. 

The Arabs are gay and cheerful ; the brow of 
care is rarely seen among them, The more chil- 



THEIR MODE OF LIVING. 



205 



dren they have, the greater the blessing. They 
turn their hands in early youth to some useful 
purpose : so soon as they can walk they attend 
the camels, or are put to some domestic occupa- 
tion ; thus forming a useful link in the chain of 
their patriarchal society. The independence 
of these Arabs is depicted in their physiog- 
nomy ; they are oppressed by no cankering 
care, no anxiety, no anticipation of distress. 
The food and clothing of the Arab is always at 
hand ; fuel is not required in this warm country ; 
and a glass of cool water is all that is desired to 
allay the thirst. This simple and abstemious 
mode of living is congenial to the human consti- 
tution ; accordingly they enjoy uninterrupted 
health : sickness is so uncommon with them 
that to be old and to be sick are synonymous 
terms. They think one cannot happen without 
the other. Some of the women of these people, 
whilst young, are extremely delicate, hand- 
some, and have elegant figures. They account 
it gross to swallow food, that would, they say, 
fatten them like their Moorish neighbours ; they 
therefore masticate it only. Their physiog- 
nomy is very interesting and animated ; their 
features are regular ; large black expressive 
eyes; a ready wit, poetic fancy, expressing 
themselves in poetic effusions, in which, from 
constant habit, some of them have become such 
adepts, that they with facility speak extempore 
poetry ; those who are unable to converse 



5206 



CUSTOMS AND MANNERS 



in this manner are less esteemed. Their 
evening amusements consist in dancing and 
music, vocal and instrumental. Generally, 
throughout all the Arab provinces, but parti- 
cularly in Suse, among the Mograffra Arabs, the 
Woled Abbusebah, and WoledDeleim, the whole 
country is in a blaze of light of a summer's 
evening ; music, dancing, and rejoicing, is heard 
in every direction. Their music consists of a 
kettle-drum, a flute or reed, similar to what Ho- 
mer describes as the instrument of the ancient 
shepherds, a rhabeb or two-stringed fiddle, 
played with a semicircular bow, a tamboureen, 
and brass castanets. They play in precise 
time ; and the ladies arrange themselves at the 
entrance of the sheik's tent. It is pleasant to 
observe the beauty of their fine-formed feet, un- 
injured by tight shoes, and free from corns and 
all excrescences. They dance some dances bare- 
footed, making very short steps, scarcely raising 
the foot from the ground, in a peculiar manner. 
They have elegant and circular ancles ; and their 
light motions fascinate the eyes of the spectators 
and the admiring strangers, who occasionally 
exclaim, {Allah elirduh alikume ia Elarb) " the 
protection of God be upon you, O Arabs !" (met- 
kine fal Elarb ^ " there are none comparable 
to the Arabs !" They have a very elegant shawl- 
dance : in the management of the shawl they 
display singular grace, and practise elegant 
figures, sometimes concealing their faces, some- 



OF THE ARABS. 



207 



times showing their brilliant eyes through an 
opening in the shawl. The manners of these 
ladies is courteous, but chaste ; perfectly modest, 
but without reserve ; and the other sex pay them 
courteous attention. 



208 



ABUNDANCE OF CORN 

PRODUCED IN 

WEST BARBARY. 

Costly Presents made by Spain to the Emperor. — Bashaw 
of Daquellds weekly Present of a Bar of Gold. — Mit~ 
feres or $ubtei~raneoiis Depositories for Corn, 

The empire of Marocco, west of the Atlas, dur- 
ing the reign of Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, 
father of the present Emperor Soliman, was one 
continued corn-field. At that time the export- 
ation was free to all parts of the world. It is im- 
possible to conceive the abundance produced in 
this prolific land, none but those who have ac- 
tually seen the standing corn in the ear, and 
have seen it reaped, can form any correct idea 
of its prodigious increase. The plains of Kaha- 
mena, of Shawiya, of Temsena, of Abda, and 
Duquella, those immense plains of M'sharrah 
Rummellah, of Ait- Amor, and many others, form 
each, separately, extensive nelds of corn, farther 
than the eye can reach. To give an idea of the 
quantity produced in the plains near Dar El 
Beida, it will be sufficient to say, that 250 sail 
of ships, from 150 to 700 tons, were loaded at 
that port in one year of Seedy Muhamed's reign. 
At the other ports on the shores of the Atlantic, 
viz. at Arzilla, L'Araich, Meheduma, Rabat, 



\ 



ABUNDANCE OF CORN. 



Azamoir, Mazagan, Saffy, and Mogodor, were 
shipped a quantity, almost equal in proportion 
to what was shipped at Dar-El-Beida, so that 
the duties at one dollar per fanegue, of 80 lb. 
weight on the exportation of wheat, barley, 
Indian corn, caravances, beans, and seeds, in 
one year, according to the imperial registers, 
amounted to 5,257,320 Mexico dollars. a Be- 
sides which, presents to an incalculable amount 
were made from time to time by Spain and Por- 
tugal, particularly by the former, to keep the 
Emperor in good humour, and to prevent him 
from prohibiting the exportation of grain, of which 
however there was little chance, as his Imperial 
Majesty was always diligent in the accumulation 
of treasure, and let no opportunity pass of encou- 
raging the agriculture of his dominions. This 
system gave general occupation to the Arabs, or 
agriculturists, and enriched them so univer- 
sally, that the diffusion of wealth among them, 
produced other incalculable sources of revenue, 
insomuch that it was customary for Muhanied 
Ben A mar an, Bashaw of Duquella, to present 
to the Emperor at Marocco, every Friday, (the 
Muhamedan sabbath), as he returned home from 
the mosque, a massive bar of pure gold of Tim- 
buctoo, valued at some thousand dollars ; which 

a Barley and wheat imported from different ports of Eng- 
land and from the Continent into London (which is more 
than is imported into Great Britain) in 1818, was 6,179,330 
quintals or saas of Barbary, which are equal to 7,415,390 
fanegues JSj. 



MITFERES. 



was considered as the fee by which he held his 
bashawick. The Arabs who are the agricul- 
turists of the before-mentioned plains, besides 
the corn exported, lay up immense quantities in 
subterraneous caverns, constructed by a curious 
process, v*ell deserving the attention of the co- 
lonists of South Africa ; these repositories are 
called mitferes b , they are constructed in a co- 
nical form, and will contain from 200 to 2000 
quarters of corn. c It is expedient, in their con- 
struction, to exclude the atmospheric air \ and 
the soil, in which they are constructed, should 
be essentially conservative, the air being never 
changed, is constantly of the same temperature, 
very dry, and not subject to the variations of 
humidity, which affect the external air : this, 
with other necessary precautions being observed, 
they will preserve the corn twenty or thirty 
years perfectly sound. In countries, (like that 
of the Cape of Good Hope,) subject to drought, 
inundations, or locusts, these mitferes, or cata- 
combs are indispensable, as they preserve corn as a 
reserve stock, in the event of scarcity, or famine, 
produced by any of the before mentioned cala- 
mities, or providential visitations. It is more 

* Genesis, xli. 9. — " And Joseph gathered corn as the 
sand of the sea very much." 

Q I descended into a mitfere in the Arab province of Du- 
quella, and remained there whilst the Arab explained to me 
the mode of constructing them ; this was near the douar of 
"VVoled Aisah (see the map) : it had just been emptied, and 
produced 3450 saas or quintals. 



ANTI-COMMERCIAL SYSTEM. 



211 



than probable that this singular art of construct- 
ing mitferes, was derived in ancient times from 
the catacombs of Egypt, and that Joseph might 
have preserved Pharaoh's corn d upwards of seven 
years, in similar magazines. The Emperor Seedi 
Muhamed, who possessed considerable talent, 
and had a perfect knowledge of the disposition 
and character of his subjects, used to say in the 
(em'shoer,) place of audience, before all the peo- 
ple, in the latter part of his reign ; — " You com- 
plain of my decrees ; but when I am departed 
from this world, you shall seek for one day 
of Seedi Muhamed's reign, but you shall not 
find it." This prediction has been literally veri- 
fied throughout the respective reigns of his sons 
Muley Yezzed, and Muley El Hesham, and even 
his son the present Emperor has often manifested 
an anti-commercial system, and has accordingly 
(probably by the advice of the Fakeers belonging 
to the divan) prohibited the exportation of most 
articles of clothing, and provision, such as wool, 
Fas manufactures, corn, olive oil, raisins, &c. e 

A wine company, consisting of gentlemen 
of practical experience in that branch, of business, 
might form a most beneficial establishment at 

d Geaesis, xli. 48. 

e The result of this anti-commercial system is, that corn is 
dearer than it was during the exportation. Many millions of 
acres of the finest and must productive land lies fallow for 
want of a market for its produce ; indeed, the produce has 
sometimes been so low for want of a market, that I 
have known instances of the corn having been left stand- 



212 



VARIETY OF WINES. 



Santa Cruz, whither the grapes of Edautenan 
are brought to market, and other grapes from 
the Arab countries, of exquisite quality and fla- 
vour, infinitely superior in richness, size, and 
flavour to those of Spain and Portugal, or any 
part of Italy ; indeed, I have no hesitation in de- 
claring, (without fear of contradiction,) that this 
country produces the finest grapes, oranges, 
and pomegranates in the world, and in the great- 
est abundance. I have myself tasted at Ma- 
rocco, at a Hebrew Rabbi's table, excellent imita- 
tions of burgundy, claret, champagne, madeira, 
and rhenish, or old hock, all the produce of 
grapes reared in the plains of that city, and in 
the adjacent mountains. The port of Santa Cruz, 
if purchased of the Emperor by the English, 
would, besides securing the trade to Sudan, and 
the interior of Africa, supply the London market 
with abundance of all these excellent wines. 



ing, not being worth the expence of reaping. Now this 
prohibition undoubtedly will appear to many intelligent 
readers bad policy in his Imperial Majesty, but it is never- 
theless consistent policy. The sine qua non of the court 
of Marocco is to keep the inhabitants poor. It is as- 
serted by the political economists of this country, that 
the Arab should not have more than sufficient to feed 
and clothe him ; every thing beyond this turns to evil, 
and is an incentive to rebellion : the superflux, they main- 
tain, should go to (Beit el melh a" el muselmen,) the Musel- 
man treasury. 



DOMESTIC SERPENTS OF MAROCCO. 



Every house in Marocco has, or ought to have, 
a domestic serpent : I say ought to have, because 
those that have not one, seek to have this in- 
mate, by treating it hospitably whenever one ap- 
pears ; they leave out food for it to eat during 
the night, which gradually domiciliates this rep- 
tile. These serpents are reported to be extremely 
sagacious, and very susceptible. The superstition 
of these people is extraordinary ; for rather than 
offend these serpents, they will suffer their women 
to be exposed during sleep to their performing 
the office of an infant. They are considered, in a 
house, emblematical of good, or prosperity, as 
their absence is ominous of evil. They are not 
often visible; but I have seen them passing over 
the beams of the roof of the apartments. A 
friend of mine was just retired to bed at Marocco, 
when he heard a noise in the room, like some- 
thing crawling over his head, he arose, looked 
about the room, and discovered one of these 
reptiles about four feet long, of a dark colour, he 
pricked it with his sword, and killed it, then re- 
turned to bed. In the morning he called to him 
the master of the house where he was a guest, and 
telling him he had attacked the serpent, the Jew 
was chagrined, and expostulated with him, for 
the injury he had done him : apprehensive that 
evil would visit him, he intimated to his guest, 
that he hoped he would leave his house, as he 
feared the malignity of the serpent ; and he was 



214 MANUFACTURES OF FAS. 

not reconciled until my friend discovered to him 
that he had actually killed the reptile. 



MANUFACTURES OF FAS. 

Superior Manufacture of Gold-thread. — Imitation of pre- 
cious Stones, — Manufactory of Gun-barrels in Suse. — 
Silver-mine. 

The manufactures of West Barbary, are of va- 
rious kinds. They excel, in the city of Fas, in the 
manufacture of woollens, cottons, silks, and 
gold-thread. The wool and cotton are made into 
hayks, which are pieces of cloth five feet wide, 
and about three and a half, or four yards long, 
used to throw loosely over the dress, when they 
go out into the external air: it resembles the 
Roman toga, and when tastefully adjusted, gives 
an elegance to the Moorish costume* These hayks 
are manufactured in most of the private families 
of Fas ; the women employ themselves about 
them, and sell them to the merchants. They are 
sometimes made of cotton mixed with silk, and 
also altogether of silk. They make also pieces of 
silk of various bright colours, called bulawan; 
the sky-blue, dark-blue, scarlet, and yellow, are 
vivid colours, produced by their mode of dying 
the silk before it is manufactured. They manu- 
facture their silks from Bengal raw silk, which 
they call emfitla* The bulawan is striped, or che- 



GOLD THREAD, &C. 



215 



quered, pink, blue, yellow, scarlet, and green : 
it resembles what is called, in England, Persian, 
but it is much stronger, and more f durable, 
though equally light. The silk sashes, called 
hazam, are made in large quantities, and are de- 
serving of imitation in Europe ; they are very 
substantial, but of the same superior colours with 
the bulawan. They are made generally half a 
yard wide, and three yards long : these sell at 
Fas, from two to fifty dollars each. The supe- 
rior kind made for the ladies of the horam g , or 
emperor's seraglio, for the ladies of the bashaws, 
and for those of the great and opulent, are in- 
termixed with a beautiful gold-thread, much 
superior to any that is manufactured in Europe, 
insomuch, that the gold-thread imported from 
Leghorn and Marseilles is used only in such 
hazams as are made for exportation to Sudan, 
Draha, or Bled-el-Jereed, but those made for 
the great and opulent, for home consumption, 
are manufactured with the gold thread of the 
Fas manufacture. Whether these expert artificers 
learned the mystery of gold beating, and gold 
wire drawing, by which they obtain gold-thread, 
from the Egyptians, I am not competent to say ; 

f The spirit of avarice does not sufficiently prevail to in- 
duce the manufacturer to make imperfect articles for the 
purpose of sale only. Moreover, they are restrained from 
deception by an officer, who inspects the quality of manu- 
factures, and does not suffer an imperfect article to be sold. 

g This word is called by Europeans haram or seraglio ; 
but haram thus applied, is a barbarism : it signifies vicious. 
Horam is the correct pronunciation : it signifies a place of 
safety, that admits of no intrusion. 



MANUFACTURES 



but they say they derived it in ancient times from 
the Arabs, as well as the art of cutting, polish- 
ing, and setting precious stones. They make a 
composition in imitation of amber, which cannot, 
by the keenest eye, be distinguished from the 
natural amber, the latter, however, by h friction 
attracts cotton, but the manufactured amber 
does not; this is the only criterion by which 
they ascertain the true from the false amber. 
They also compose artificial stones with equal 
sagacity : the topaz, the emerald, and the ruby 
they imitate to perfection. The wool with which 
they make shawls almost equal in appearance 
to those of Kashmere, is procured from the sheep 
of the province of Tedla, and is finer than 
the Spanish Merino. They might manufac- 
ture shawls of goats' hair, equal to those of 
Kashmere, from the goats of the eastern decli- 
vity of the Atlas, whose hair is like silk : these 
goats are called {el maize Felelley,) i. e. Tafllelt 
goats. 1 There can be no doubt, if our intercourse 
with Marocco had not been impeded by a gene- 

h ThaleSj the chief of* the seven wise men of Greece, 
detected the existence of electricity in amber about 600 
years before the Christian era. He was the first who ob- 
served attraction to be the distinguishing property of amber ; 
and he -was so forcibly struck with this singular discovery, 
that he was almost led to suppose that it possessed animation. 
The term electricity is derived from the Greek word -nXeia-pov, 
amber. See Remarks on Electricity and Galvanism, by 
M. La Beaume, p. 29. 

• There was a breed of these goats on the island of Mogodor, 
kept there by the emperor',? orders. This island is the state- 
prison of the empire. 



OF FAS. 



.217 



ral ignorance of the language of that country, that 
we might long since have received from the ma- 
nufacturers of Fas, shawls of Tafilelt goat-hair, 
equal to the finest of the Kashmere manufacture. 
There is a very extensive manufactory of red 
woollen caps at Fas, the contexture of which is 
well deserving investigation. There is also a 
manufactory of gun locks and barrels ; the for- 
mer appear to have reached the acme of the 
art, the latter are not so good as those which 
they procure from Europe : so that a Spanish or 
an English barrel, and a Fas lock, is considered 
a complete gun. Such articles of manufacture 
as require a complication of machinery and power 
to produce they import from Europe, except only 
when the market is bare, and then necessity 
compels them to attempt their construction. 
The (Jiayk FileUy,} i.e. Tafilelt hayk, is a fine 
elegant woollen cloth, thin as a muslin. The Em- 
peror Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah patronised 
this manufacture of his native country, and never 
wore any other. The art of manufacturing lea- 
ther is carried to great perfection at Mequinas : 
shoes of the thinnest leather are there made im- 
pervious to water. The manufactures at Ma- 
rocco and Terodant are similar to those of Fas, 
with the exception of that of gold-thread, and 
the cutting and polishing of precious stones. 
The preparation of leather at Marocco surpasses 
any thing known in Europe : lion and tiger skins 
they prepare white as snow, and soft as silk. 
There are two plants that grow in the Atlas 



218 



MANUFACTURES OF FAS. 



mountains, the leaves of which they use in the 
manufacture of leather ; they are called tizra, and 
tasaya. Whether these render the leather imper- 
vious, I am not competent to say ; every inquiry 
that I have made at Marocco respecting this 
beautiful manufacture, has been unsatisfactory. 
I have always found the manufacturers very 
guarded, and extremely jealous \ but I have often 
thought that two or three of our leather manu- 
facturers, well versed in their art, and withal of 
penetrating minds, might contrive to extract the 
secret from them. In the mountains of Idaultit* 
in Lower Suse, they have iron-mines, and they 
make gun-barrels and gun-locks equal to what 
are made at Fas. The temptations to agricul- 
ture, however, are such, that sufficient only for 
the consumption of their own kabyl are manu- 
factured ; which is done rather from a principle 
of self-defence, and from the amorpatrice, than 
with a view to gain. The silver from the mines 
of Elala, comes to the Santa Cruz market pure, 
and in round lumps, weighing about two ounces 
each. I have bought it for its weight in Spanish 
dollars ; but it is generally taken to the Mint for 
sale. Ores of gold from the mines of South Bar- 
bary, and silver dust from the bed of the river 
at Messa, collected personally by me, I sent to 
England to be assayed : the person who got them 
assayed, reported, that the metal yielded was 
scarcely sufficient to pay the charges of assaying ; 
so that the speculation was abandoned. 



219 



ON THE STATE OF SLAVERY 

IN MUHAMEDAN AFRICA. 

The state of slavery in this country is very 
different from that which is experienced by the 
unfortunate men who are transported from 
Africa to work under our Christian brethren in 
the West India islands. No man, who is suffi- 
ciently erudite to read the Koran can be (abd) 
a slave in a Muhamedan country. It is incum- 
bent on a good muselman to give such his li- 
berty, that the propagation of the {Been el 
Wdsah a ) muselman faith, be not impeded* A 
man who has served his master faithfully 15 seven 
years, sometimes gets liberated. This liberation, 
however, is not compulsory ; but conscientious 
muselmen, of good moral character, often adopt 
this enlarging system. I have, however, met with 
many Moors, who, on offering liberty to their 
slaves, the latter have declined it, preferring to 
continue in obeisance ; a clear proof that their 
servitude is not very severe. All slaves, without 
exception, are brought to this country from the 
various territories of Sudan, by the akkabars, 
kaffilas, or caravans, that traverse Sahara. They 
are all pagans or idolaters (from the interior 
regions). They are worth from ten to twenty 
dollars at Timbuctoo ; and at Marocco and Fas 

a So called by Muhamedans : literally means the liberal 
or wide doctrine, alluding to that of the Arabian Prophet. 
b Jeremiah, xxxiv. 14. 



220 



STATE OF SLAVERY. 



they sell for, from seventy to one hundred dollars. 
They are received into the Moorish families as 
domestic servants, and soon forget their ido- 
latrous superstitions, and become (nominally at 
least) Muhamedans. After which, many learn 
to read the Koran, and becoming observers 
of ablution and prostration, often procure their 
liberation ; for if any one should neglect to 
liberate such a slave, his brethren in Muhamed 
will urge him to it, as a good and charitable 
work, becoming a true muselman. 

The man who wrote the letter from Timbuctoo, 
giving his master at Mogodor an account of Mungo 
Park, having visited Kabria, which letter I read, 
and reported its contents on my arrival in Eng- 
land from Mogodor, about the year 1807, to 
my Lord Moira (now the Marquis of Hastings), 
to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles Morgan, 
was a liberated negro of Seed el Abes Buhellel, 
a Fas merchant, whose father had an establish- 
ment at Timbuctoo. When Buhellel liberated 
this negro, he had such confidence in him, that 
he advanced to him, on his own personal credit, 
goods to a considerable amount, with which he 
crossed Sahara, and took them to Timbuctoo 
for a market. It were to be desired, for the 
sake of humanity, that our West-India planters 
would take a lesson on this subject from the 
Moors, whose conduct, in this particular, is 
worthy of imitation. 

c The etymology of mtiselman is, a man of peace ; from 
salem, peace. 



THE PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS, 

Their incredible Destruction. — Used as Food. — Re- 
markable Instance of their destroying eve?y Greeii Herb 
on one Side of a River, and not on the other. 

In the autumn of 1792, (Jeraad) locusts began to 
appear in West Barbary. The corn was in ear, and 
therefore safe, as this devouring insect attacks 
no hard substance. In (the lidhli^) the period of 
heavy rains comprised between the forty longest 
nights, old style, they disappeared ; so that one or 
two only were seen occasionally : but so soon as 
the liahli had passed, the small young green locust 
began to appear, no bigger than a fly. As ve- 
getation increased, these insects increased in 
size and quantity. But the country did not yet 
seem to suffer from them. About the end of 
March, they increased rapidly. I was at (Larsa 
Sultan} the emperor's garden, which belongs to 
the Europeans, and which was given to the 
merchants of Mogodor by the emperor Seedi 
Muhamed ben Abdallah, in the kabyl of Idau- 
gourd, in the province of Haha, and the garden 
flourished with every green herb, and the fruit- 
trees were all coming forward in the productive 
beauty of spring. I went there the following 
day, and not a green leaf was to be seen : an 
army of locusts had attacked it during the 



/ 



PLAGUE OF 



night, and had devoured every shrub, every 
vegetable, and every green leaf ; so that the 
garden had been converted into an unproductive 
wilderness. And, notwithstanding the incredible 
devastation that was thus produced, not one 
locust was to be seen. The gardener reported, 
that (sultan jeraad ) the king of the locusts 
had taken his departure eastward early in the 
morning ; the myriads of locusts followed, so 
that in a quarter of an hour not one was to be 
seen. The depredations of these devouring in- 
sects was too soon felt, and a direful scarcity 
ensued. The poor would go out a locusting, as 
they termed it : the bushes were covered ; they 
took their (Jiaik) garment, and threw it over 
them, and then collected them in a sack. In 
half an hour they would collect a bushel. These 
they would take home, and boil a quarter of an 
hour ; they would then put them into a fry- 
ing-pan, with pepper, salt, and vinegar, and 
eat them, without bread or any other food, 
making a meal of them. They threw away the 
head, wings, and legs, and ate them as we do 
prawns. They considered them wholesome 
food, and preferred them to pigeons. After- 
wards, whenever there was any public enter- 
tainment given, locusts was a standing dish ; 
and it is remarkable that the dish was always 
emptied, so generally were they esteemed as 
palatable food. 

A few years after the locusts appeared, I 
performed a journey from Mogodor to Tangier. 



LOCUSTS. 



The face of the country appeared like a newly 
ploughed field of a brown soil ; for it was com- 
pletely covered with these insects, insomuch 
that they had devoured even the bark of the 
trees. They rose up about a yard, as the horses 
went on, and settled again ; in some places 
they were one upon another, three or four 
inches deep on the ground ; a few were flying 
in the air, and they flew against the face, as if 
they were blind, to the no small annoyance of 
the traveller. It is very remarkable, that on 
reaching the banks of the river a Elkos, which we 
crossed, there was not, on the north side of that 
river, to my great astonishment, one locust any 
where to be seen ; but the country was flou- 
rishing in all the luxuriance of verdure, al- 
though the river was not wider than the Thames 
at Windsor. This extraordinary circumstance 
was accounted for by the Arabs, who said that 
not a locust would cross the river, till {sultan 
jeraad) the king of the locusts should precede 
and direct the way. 

a See the Map of the empire of Marocco. 



ON THE INFLUENCE 

OF THE 

GREAT PRINCIPLE OF CHRISTIANITY 

ON THE MOORS. 
(Mat. vii. 12.) 

Of the Propagation of Christianity in Africa. Causes 
that prevent it. — The Mode of promoting it is through 
a friendly and commercial Intercourse with the Natives. 
— Exhortation to Great Britain to attend to the In- 
tercourse with Africa. — Danger of the French co- 
lonizing Senegal, and supplanting us, and thereby de- 
preciating the Value of our West-India Islands. 

That it is a Christian duty to attempt, by 
lenient measures, to propagate the Christian 
religion among the Idolaters and Muhamedans of 
Africa, I think cannot be doubted; but this 
propagation will not spread to any considerable 
extent until, (in that country,)themoralsofChris- 
tians in general shall approach nearer than they 
actually do to the standard of Christian perfection. 
It is, however, most certain that there never was a 
more promising, or a more favourable opportunity 
of subverting paganism in Africa, and establishing 
Christianity on its ruins, than at this present 
period ; and I think the best method to effect 
this desirable purpose is through the medium of 
commerce, which must, in that continent, ne- 
cessarily precede science and civilisation. It is 
well known, by all men of penetration who have 



OBSTRUCTIONS TO CHRISTIANITY. 225 



resided in Muhamedan countries, that the prin- 
ciples of the religion of Muhamed are not so re- 
pugnant to Christianity as many, nay, most per- 
sons have imagined. Various causes, however, 
tend to increase the hostility that exists between 
the two religions. First, it is augmented by the fa- 
keers, and by political men, who are ever active in 
bringing to their aid superstition and enthusiasm, 
to increase the hostility. Secondly, it is aug- 
mented by the very little intercourse which they 
have with Christians, originating, for the most 
part, in our ignorance of the Arabic language, 
an ignorance which has been lamented by the 
emperor a Seedy Muhamed ben Abdallah himself. 
Thirdly, the hostility of these two religions is 
augmented by a very ancient tradition, that the 
country will be invaded by the Christians, and 
converted to Christianity, that this event will 
happen on a Friday (the Muhamedan sabbath), 
during the time that they are at the (silla dohor) 
prayers at half past one o'clock, P. M. ; so that 

a When this Emperor, for the purpose of satisfying his 
people that he administered retributive justice, ordered 
two teeth of an English merchant to be drawn, he repented 
so much of what he had done, that he offered to make any 
amends that the merchant might require, expressing his 
wish that he had an English consul with whom he could 
converse colloquially, without the inconvenience of an in- 
terpreter ; and for this purpose the Emperor, after granting 
him considerable favours, urged him to accept of the British 
consulship ; adding, that he himself would secure him the 
appointment, and that he would then refuse nothing, but 
whatsoever the English should ask of him, they should 
have. 



£2G CONVERSION OF AFRICA 

throughout the empire they close the gates of 
all the towns on this day, at this period of time, 
till two o'clock, P. M. : when the prayers are 
over, and the people go out of the mosques, the 
gates are again thrown open. This tradition, 
which is universally believed, acts on the minds 
of the whole community, and fans the embers 
of hostility already lighted between Christians 
and Muhamedans, bringing to the recollection 
of the latter the hostile intentions of the former 
to invade and take their country from them, 
when an opportunity shall offer. On the other 
hand, what tends to reconcile the two creeds is, 
the influence that European commerce, and the 
principles of the Christian doctrine, have had on 
the muselmen of Africa. This influence extends 
as far as the commerce with Europeans extends. 
Wherever the Europeans negociate with the 
Moors, the great principle of the Christian 
doctrine is known and discussed, — that principle 
which surpasses every doctrine propagated by 
the Grecian philosophers, or the wise men of the 
East, — that truly noble, liberal, and charitable 
principle, " Do as you would be done by," in- 
fluences the conduct of the better educated 
muselmen who have had long intercourse and 
negotiations with Christians ; and they do not 
fail to retort it upon us, whenever our conduct 
deviates from it. Thus, the minds of musel- 
men, wherever European commerce flows, are 
tinctured with this great principle of the Chris- 
tian doctrine. And, to an accurate observer of 

<7* 



TO CHRISTIANITY. 



mankind, it will appear that this principle, from 
its own intrinsic beauty, has in many superseded 
the muselman retaliative system of morality, 
originating in the Mosaic law, — " An eye for an 
eye, and a tooth for a tooth." For I have heard 
muselmen, in their individual disputes with one 
another, advance this precept as a rule of con- 
duct. If, therefore, this divine principle be 
recognised by muselmen, who have had inter- 
course and commercial negociations with Eu- 
ropeans, in defiance of the obstacles to this 
doctrine suggested by the fakeers and political 
men ; what might we not expect from the due 
cultivation of an extensive commerce, upon a 
grand national scale, with this interesting con- 
tinent ? Might we not expect a gradual diffu- 
sion of the principles of Christianity among the 
muselmen, as well as among the pagans and 
idolaters, of Africa ? I would venture to assert, 
that in the event of the British government en- 
gaging, with energy and determination, to 
cultivate a commercial intercourse and extensive 
connection with Africa, that the negroes, and 
possibly even the Muhamedans, might gradually 
be converted to Christianity. This event would 
take a long time to accomplish, but its gradual 
progress, most probably, would be more rapid 
than was the progress of Muhamedanism during 
the life of the Arabian prophet. 

Associations have been formed in this philan- 
thropic country, through the medium of ex- 
tensive subscriptions, for the civilisation of 



^ l 28 PROGRESS OF THE FRENCH 

Africa, and the abolition of the slave trade : 
the greatest merit is due to the individuals 
who have subscribed to such institutions ; their 
motives have been unexceptionable, but we 
grossly deceive ourselves, and the whole is an 
illusion ! The French, as it were, have taken 
the staff out of our hands ; and whilst we are 
in vain endeavouring to abolish the trade in 
slaves, by the capture of slave-ships at sea b , 
they are insidiously cultivating the growth of 
cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, and other colonial 
produce, on the banks of the Senegal river ; inso- 
much that if we shall continue thus supinely to 
disregard their important African agricultural 
operations, the result in a few years will probably 
be, that they will be able to undersell us in West- 
India produce, in the markets of continental 
Europe j for they can cultivate, with free ne- 
groes at Senegal, colonial produce at consider- 
ably less expense than our West-India culti- 
vation. The voyage, also, is not half the 
distance ; so that the continental market 
for the sale of West-India produce will be 
shortly supplied from Senegal, from whence it 

b Many naval officers concur in thinking, that to suppress 
the slave trade, by interrupting the ships, would employ all 
the navy of Great Britain ; and entail a war-expense on the 
nation ; besides the enormous expense that will be neces- 
sarily incurred by the various commissions dispatched to 
Sierra Leone, Havannah, &c. &c. for the adjudication of 
slave-causes. To which may be added, our expensive pre- 
sents to Spain and Portugal, to induce those powers to coa- 
lesce in the abolition ; which there is too much reason to 
apprehend will be evaded by the subjects of those powers. 



IN WESTERN AFRICA. 



is more than probable that colonial produce will 
be imported to Europe at little more than half 
the expense of importing it from the West In- 
dies : thus Great Britain may be driven out of the 
market for colonial produce, except for what 
may be sufficient for her own domestic supply. 

This has been a favourite scheme of the 
French, who have now begun to taste the fruits 
of it : they have had it in view and in operation 
ever since tee gave them possession of Senegal. 
It was the system of her late Emperor, Bona- 
parte, suggested to him by the arch and brilliant 
genius of Talleyrand, to indemnify the loss of 
St. Domingo. 

Moreover, the French, who are cultivating 
the territory of Senegal with indefatigable 
industry, will be, in a few years, not only able 
to supply the continental markets of Europe 
with colonial produce, but they will become 
masters of North Africa, establish another 
Ceuta at the African promontory of the Cape 
de Verd, and, in the event of a war, annoy 
incalculably our East-India trade, and enhance 
the price of East-India produce in the British 
dominions ; whilst they will, by the aid of the 
Americans, who will be always ready to assist 
them, form a depot for East-India goods at the 
Cape de Verd, and from thence introduce them 
into Africa and France, to the almost total exclu- 
sion of Great Britain. If we are to prevent these 
events from taking place, we must adopt different 
m easures from what we have adopted ; we must 



230 



MUHAMEDAN 



move in a very different sphere from that in which 
we have been accustomed to move ; we must be 
much more energetic, more vigilant, and more 
active than we have been, with respect to Afri- 
can matters. It is presumed that these sugges- 
tions are well deserving the consideration of His 
Majesty's ministers. May they view with the 
eye of an eagle and the wisdom of the ser- 
pent the insidious encroachments that are thus 
making on our colonial markets ! ! 

The Africans, by which term I mean the na- 
tives, viz. the Moors, the Arabs, the Berebbers, 
the Shelluhs, and the Negroes, (not the Jews, 
who, although numerous in this country, yet, as 
they are and have been ever since their Theo- 
cratical Government, a distinct race, and their 
customs and manners well known, I do not include 
them in the term Africans, although from their 
birth they are entitled to the appellation,) — the 
Africans, I say, are seldom met with in closed 
rooms, but are constantly in the open air, trans- 
acting their business in dwarias, which are 
detached rooms, or apartments, with three 
sides, the fourth being supported by pillars ; 
this custom of living continually in or ex- 
posed to the external air renders them strong 
and healthy, wherefore their bodies, by an 
antiperistasis, have the natural heat repelled and 
kept within, increasing by this action their ap- 
petite for food, which is always strong. They 
Jive in a frugal manner, seldom eating but of 
one food : the prevailing dish throughout North 



CUSTOMS. 



231 



Africa is cuscasoe, a granulated paste cooked 
by steam, and garnished with vegetables, and 
chickens, or mutton ; this is a very nutritive, 
palatable, and wholesome dish. They are 
not incumbered at their meals with a variety 
of dishes ; but a large bowl, or spacious plate, 
is introduced on a round table, supported by 
one pillar, like the Monopodia of the ancients, 
rather larger than the bowl or dish, and about 
six inches high. Half a dozen Moors sit round 
this repast, on cushions or on the ground, cross- 
legged ; a position which they remain in with 
perfect ease and pliability from custom and the 
loose dress they wear. When the company have 
seated themselves, a slave or a servant comes 
round to the guests, to perform the ceremony of 
(togreda) washing of the hands ; a brass bason 
or pan, which they call tas, is brought round to 
all the company, the slave holding it by his left 
hand, while, with the right hand, he pours water 
on the hands of the guests from a (garoff) 
pitcher, in the form of an Etruscan vase, having 
(zeef) a towel thrown over his shoulder to dry 
their hands. This ceremony is performed before 
and after meals. The master of the feast, be- 
fore they begin to eat, pronounces (Bismillah) 
the grace before meat, which signifies, " In the 
name of God after the repast, he says (El 
Ham'd u lillah) " Praise be to God." Each guest 
eats with the fingers of his right hand, none ever 
touching the food with their left. If a piece of 
meat, or a joint of a fowl or chicken is to be 



MUHAMEDAN 



divided, two of the guests take hold of it, and 
pull it till it is divided. This is somewhat re- 
pugnant to an European's ideas of delicacy ; but 
if we consider that the hands are previously 
washed, and that they never come in contact with 
the mouth in decent or respectable society, there 
is not so insuperable an objection to this way of 
eating as might otherwise appear. Each person 
in eating the granulated flour or cuscasoe, puts 
his two fore-fingers into the dish before him, and 
by a dextrous turn of the hand converts the 
quantity taken up into the form of a ball, which 
he, with a peculiar dexterity, jirks into the 
mouth. The Africans never drink till they have 
done eating ; when dinner is over, a large gob- 
let, or poculum amicitice, of pure water is passed 
round, and each person drinks copiously ; the 
washing is then repeated, and the repast is ter- 
minated. Afterwards coffee is introduced, with- 
out milk : the cup is not placed in a saucer, nor 
do they hand you a spoon, for the sugar is mixed 
in the coffee-pot; the cup is presented in an 
outer cup of brass, which preserves the fingers 
from being burned. They use no bells in their 
tents ; but the slaves or servants are called by 
the master when wanted, one generally standing 
in the corner of the tent to superintend the 
others. The pipe is sometimes introduced after 
the coffee, but this is by no means a general 
custom, except among the negroes. The pipe 
is of rose-wood, of jasmin, or of rhododendrum 
wood : great quantities of the latter are con- 



CUSTOMS. 



QS3 



veyed across the Sahara, for pipe-tubes for the 
negroes of Timbuctoo, and other territories of 
Sudan, bordering on the Nile el Abeed, or Nile 
of the Negroes (Niger). 

Passing through this territory of encampments, 
when travellers are disposed to sleep at a 
douar, one of the party presents himself at the 
confines of the encampment, and exclaims (Deef 
Allah) « The guest of God." The sheik of the 
douar is immediately apprised of the circum- 
stance ; and after investigating the rank of the 
travellers, he enquires if they have tents with 
them; if they have not, he has his own 
or (kheyma deaf) the guest's tent appropri- 
ated for the travellers. If they have their own 
tents, which persons of respectability generally 
have, the sheik comes and directs the servants 
where to pitch them ; the camels and mules are 
disburthened, and the sheik declares {atshie 
m'hassub alia) " For all this baggage I hold my- 
self accountable." Europeans travelling in this 
country generally follow their own customs : 
accordingly, among the English, tea is ordered ; 
a most delectable refreshment after a fatiguing 
journey on horseback, exposed to the scorching 
rays of the African sun. If the sheik and a 
few of his friends are invited to tea, which these 
Arabs designate by (elma skoon u el hadra) hot 
water and conversation, they like it very sweet, 
and drink half-a-dozen cups at least. Nothing 
ingratiates travellers with these people so much 
as distributing a few lumps of sugar among 



<234 



MUHAMEDAN 



them : sugar, honey, or any thing sweet, being 
with these Arabs emblematical of peace and 
friendship. Some of the women of the Arabs 
are extremely handsome ; in all the simplicity 
of nature " when unadorned adorned the most/' 
To fine figures they unite handsome profiles, 
good and white teeth, and large, black, expres- 
sive, intelligent eyes, like the eyes of a gazel ; 
dark eye-brows, and dark long eye-lashes, which 
give a peculiar warmth and softness to the eye. 
They concern themselves little about time, and 
will sometimes come to converse after midnight 
with the Europeans. When the guard of the 
tent informs them they cannot go in, that the 
Christian is a-bed and undressed, they are not 
less astonished than we are to see them sleeping 
in the open air at night, on the ground, with 
their clothes on. When candles are brought 
into the tent at night, the servant wishes the 
company a good evening : he says " M'sah elk- 
here," the literal meaning of which is " Good be 
Vuiih you this evening which salutation it is 
courteous to return, even to a slave ; and if any 
one, however great his rank, were not to return 
it, he would be considered a bad muselman, a 
disaffected and inhospitable barbarian. The 
morning salutation is (Alem Allah sebak,) " May 
your morning be accompanied with the know- 
ledge of God or, (Sebah el Jchere, or sebahh 
Welhhere) " Good morning to you," or " May your 
morning be good." Equals meeting, touch hands, 
and then each kisses his own respectively ; they 



CUSTOMS. 



285 



then say, (I now speak of the middle order of 
soeiety,) " And how are you, and how have 
you been : how long it is since I saw you ! and 
how are you, and how are your children ; (uhel 
Dar'kume,*) and the people of your family, how 
are they, certainly you are well:" and so they 
will go on, sometimes for a quarter of an hour, 
repeating the same thing. If an inferior meets 
a superior, he kisses his hand or his garment 
and retires, when there is a greater disparity of 
rank, the inferior kisses the stirrup of the supe- 
rior ; or prostrates himself if the superior is a 
prince, a fakeer, or a bashaw. 

Another salutation among respectable indi- 
viduals is, by each placing his right hand on his 
heart, indicating that part to be the residence of 
the friend ! 

The Jews of this country retain the customs 
of their ancestors more pure and unmixed than 
those in other countries. 

When a Jew dies he is interred the same day, 
or the day after at farthest. The female relations 
and the friends of the deceased assemble round 
the corpse, and utter bitter lamentations, tear- 
ing their faces and their hair in a most woeful 
manner ; they disfigure their faces with their 
finger-nails, till they bleed, and during the 
whole time keep stamping or moving their legs, 
beating time, as it were, with their feet ; 
these lamentations are continued, with occa- 
sional intermission, till the body of the de- 
ceased is carried away for interment. The per- 



236 CEREMONIES OF THE JEWS. 

formers of these bitter lamentations appear to 
have all the marks of hideous grief inscribed on 
their faces, but most of them feel no real con- 
cern ; some of the girls, young and handsome, 
near akin to the deceased, are ambitious to dis- 
figure themselves, and they lacerate their pretty 
faces most lamentably. The more wounds these 
bear on their cheeks the greater is their grief 
considered to be. But the corpse being re- 
moved the mourners regale themselves with 
Mahay a, or African brandy, and make up for 
their lamentations, by converting their bitter 
strains into conviviality. 

There is a strange resemblance between this 
custom and that practised by the inhabitants 
of New Zealand ; insomuch that we might 
imagine the latter to be one of the lost 
tribes of this extraordinary people. It is true 
that we have no record of such a perfection of 
navigation as to enable us to conjecture how a 
tribe of Jews could reach New Zealand : but 
many things remain in great obscurity even in 
this enlightened age ; and we have had no histo- 
rical record transmitted to us from the ancients 
of many extraordinary discoveries that recently 
have been made in Egypt. 



237 



INTEREST OF MONEY. 

Application of the Superflux of Property or Capital, 

In this country the law allows no interest of 
money ; the consequence is, that the country is 
overwhelmed with usurers, who exact, generally, 
an oath of secresy, and lend money on pledges 
of valuable and convertible merchandise : the 
interest paid on these negociations is most 
exorbitant ; I have known five, six, eight, ten, 
and even twelve per cent, per month paid 
for the use of money ! There is no paper 
money in this country ; but a bank might 
be established at Mogodor, for the convenience 
of internal trade : the sine qua non of the bank 
should be, an adequate capital. The advan- 
tages that would necessarily result from an es- 
tablishment of this kind are incalculable , the 
paper of a bank, thus established, would be cur- 
rent in a short time, under judicious and in- 
telligent management, in all the territories of 
Sudan, through the heart of Africa, through 
Bambara, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Cashna, Wan- 
gara, Bernoh, Fas, and Marocco, and various 
other countries. The immense advantages of 
the carriage of paper through the Desert and 



238 



APPLICATION OF 



through Sudan, convertible into cash at every 
commercial city, port, or district in a country 
like this, would greatly facilitate the operations 
of commerce ; this must be evident to every po- 
litical economist acquainted with the nature of 
commercial negociations in Africa. 

The superflux of coin, consisting principally 
of Mexico dollars, and doubloons, (over and 
above the quantum necessary for the circulating 
medium of commercial negociations,) is either 
buried under ground by the owner, or converted 
into jewels for the ladies of his family ; there is 
a general propensity to these subterraneous 
hordes ; the bulk of the people, the lower 
classes in particular, have an idea that they 
will enjoy in the next world what they save 
in this; which opinion is not extraordinary, 
when we consider how many cases there are, 
wherein we seethe sublimest capacity prostrate at 
the shrine of an early imbibed superstition. Many 
of these erring philosophers, therefore, attentive 
to the accumulation of riches, retire from this 
sublunary world with an immense immolated 
treasure, wherewith to begin, as they imagine, 
their career in the world to come ! 

" We," they say, " convert our superflux to 
jewels and costly apparel for our females, and 
we have the gratification of seeing them well 
apparelled and agreeably ornamented. More- 
over, a great part of our possessions is appro- 
priated to the sacred rites of hospitality, which 



SUPERFLUX COIN. 



239 



you Christians know not how to practise; for 
you worship the idol of ostentation ; you invite 
your friends to dinner ; you incur an intolerable 
and injudicious expense, and provide a multi- 
plicity of dishes to pamper their appetites, suffi- 
cient for a regiment of muselmen ; when na- 
ture and rational beings, which men were born 
to be, require only one dish. Moreover, your 
sumptuous entertainments are given to those 
only who do not want ; therefore is it an osten- 
tatious and a wanton waste ! We, on the con- 
trary, that is to say, every good Muselman, gives 
one-tenth of his property to the poor ; and more- 
over much of his substance is appropriated to 
the support, not of the rich and independent, 
who do not want it, but to (deefari) strange 
guests who journey from one country to ano- 
ther ; insomuch that, with us, a poor man may 
travel by public beneficence and apt hospitality 
from the shores of the Mediterranean to the 
borders of Sahara, without a fluce a in Qiashituli) 
the corner of his garment. b A traveller, how- 
ever poor he may be, is never at a loss for a 
meal, several meals, and even for three days en- 
tertainment, wherever he travels through our 
country ; and if any man were to go to a douar 
in any of the Arab provinces of our Sovereign's 

a A fluce is a copper coin, one hundred of which are equal 
to sixpence English. 

b In the corner of his garment : — The Africans have no 
pockets ; they carry their money in the corner of their gar- 
ment, and tie it with a knot to secure it. 



240 



HOSPITALITY OF THE ARABS. 



empire, and not receive the entertainment and 
courtesy of a brother, that douar would be 
stamped with a stigma of indelible disgrace ! 
Pardon us, therefore, if we say, you have not 
such hospitality in your country, although the 
great principle of (Seedna Aisa) our Lord Jesus, 
is charity." c I should, however, observe that 
this hospitality is shown almost exclusively to 
Muhamedans. 

Respecting women and horses, speaking of 
the treatment of them in England, they remark, 
that " England is a paradise for women, who are 
there exalted beyond the fitness of things ; and 
it is (gehennum') a hell for horses, for those poor 
ill-treated animals in the hackney coaches and 
carts, need only to be seen to be pitied ; the 
hard blows which they receive from their cruel 
masters are calculated to impress our minds with 
an opinion that we are in a land of barbarians, 
whereas you call yourselves a civilised people : 
You say you ate such ; your actions deny the 
fact, and we judge by actions, not by words or 
self-commendations. When, therefore, you pride 
yourselves on your superiority and civilisation 
the whole is a delusion ; and when we hear you 
set forth these absurd pretensions, we are compel- 
led to commiserate our common race, and to ex- 
claim,Alas, poor human nature !" This is the ver- 

c The Muhamedans acknowledge Jesus Christ to have 
been a Prophet that worked miracles ; the indelible proof of 
bis mission. 



HOSPITALITY OF THE ARABS. 



241 



batim reply that a very intelligent but irritated 
Muselman made to my animadversions on the 
absurdity of burying treasure. This gentle- 
man's father had been ambassador from the 
Emperor of Marocco to Great Britain, and to 
France ; and had seen much of French, Spanish, 
and English manners, among the higher orders 
of society in those countries. 

Too much cannot be said in commendation 
of this generous, open-hearted philanthropy of 
the Arabs, here described : but the intelligent 
reader will understand, that it applies particu- 
larly to the Arabs, or cultivators of the plains, 
in the empire of Marocco ; and, in its large 
and unlimited extent, to the Bedouin or 
roving Arabs of the Sahara, and of Lower 
Suse, from whose (kabyles) clans, the Arabs cul- 
tivators are early emigrations ; almost all of 
them having their original stock in the Sahara. 
It is also confined, almost exclusively, to Mu- 
hamedans, and does not, like the divine doc- 
trine of Jesus Christ, with universal benevolence 
embrace all mankind, without distinction of 
party, sect, or nation ; — a doctrine which has 
lately been put in considerable practice in our own 
country, by institutions supported by voluntary 
subscriptions for the destitute, for foreigners 
in distress, and for negroes ; by institutions in 
aid and support of all needy persons labour- 
ing under sickness, or having need of surgical 
aid ; by institutions for the encouragement 
of industry, for the refutation of vice and im> 



242 SURGICAL APPARATUS. 

morality; by institutions that reflect immortal 
honour on this country, and cast a lustre on the 
respective individuals who have contributed to 
all these heart-approving institutions, which are 
calculated to afford relief to almost every de- 
scription of suffering humanity ! ! 

Itinerant (tebeebs) doctors travel through the 
country to administer to the sick ; which, how- 
ever, are seldom found. They carry over their 
shoulders a leathern bag, containing their sur- 
gical apparatus, which consists of a lancet, a 
scarifying knife, and a caustic knife, or knife 
for burning : they scarify the neck, the fore- 
head, or the wrists. The caustic knife is an 
instrument of very general application. They 
convert all gun-shot and other wounds, as well 
as sores, into burns, by heating the knife in 
the fire, and gently touching the circumference 
of the wound with it. This produces acute 
pain ; but the Africans bear pain heroically : 
they say that this method prevents inflamma- 
tion and festering. They perform, by caustic, ex- 
traordinary cures. I imagine this method would 
not agree with an European body, pampered 
with a variety of high food and luxurious 
living. 

The inhabitants of this country break their 
fast with {el hassud) barley-gruel ; they grind 
the barley to the size of sparrow-shot, this they 
mix with water, and simmer over a slow fire 
two or three hours. This food is esteemed ex- 
tremely wholesome, and is antifebrile. The 



FOOD FOR BREAKFAST. 



243 



Emperor takes this before he drinks tea in a 
morning : his father, Seedi Muhamed ben Ab- 
dallah, also, who drank none but fine hyson 
tea, never would drink that beverage till he 
had first laid a foundation of el hassua. 

The Arabs and Shelluhs, with whom el hassua 
is generally used, urge its salubrity, by reporting 
that a physician alighted in a strange country, 
and when he arose in the morning, after per- 
forming his matins, he seated himself with some 
of the inhabitants, and, conversing, asked them 
how they lived, and with what food they broke 
their fast ? " With el hassua,'' was the reply : 
" Then," rejoined Esculapius, (Salam u alikume,) 
" Peace be with you ; for if you eat el hassua 
in the morning you have no need of a doctor 
and he immediately departed. 

When I established the port of Santa Cruz, 
and opened it to European commerce, the grati- 
tude and hospitality of the Arabs and Shelluhs 
of the province of Suse, was demonstrated in 
every way : so rejoiced were they to see their 
port, after an inactivity of thirty years, again 
re-established. If I rode out to visit any part 
of the country, the women, on my approach to 
a douar, would come out to a great distance 
with bowls of milk on their heads ; others with 
bowls of honey, with thin scrapings of butter 
in them, and bread or cakes d , similar to pan- 

d See a similar custom in Genesis, xviii. 5 — 8, 



244 



HOSPITALITY OF THE ARABS. 



cakes, baked in five minutes, on stones heated 
with the embers of charcoal. These greetings 
I received by tasting every bowl of milk, and 
dipping a bit of bread in the honey and eating 
it. The milk thus presented is emblematical of 
peace and amity ; the honey of welcome : to 
refuse eating or tasting what is thus presented, 
is considered, among this patriarchal people, a 
great breach of good manners, an inexcusable 
want of courtesy, which they say none but a 
kaffer e would commit. They would then say, 
Birk eeaudee, birk attajar u straha, " Alight, I 
pray thee, alight, merchant ! and rest yourself." 

In these halcyon days, these grateful people 
never knew when to cease offering presents. 
They sat on the ground in the refulgent me- 
ridian sun, and when I dismounted to walk to 
the shade of a tree, to partake of their hospita- 
lity, they would exhort me to shun the shade, 
(lie e drab'k elblrd) for fear it should give me 
cold. These Bedouin f Arabs of Suse and Sa- 

e Kaffer is the Arabic term for Infidel. All the idolatrous 
Negro nations are, by Muhamedans, denominated Kaffer, 
(or Caffres). Sing. Kaffer — plural Kaffer. 

f The Arabs of the vast plains of the empire of Marocco, 
who live in douars, or encampments, are emigrations from 
the original stock or clan in Sahara ; who are the pure or 
Bedouin Arabs. Being established in the beautiful and 
productive plains of West and South Barbary, they soon 
forget their Bedouin customs, change their wandering, plun- 
dering habits, and become cultivators, and stationary ; for 
the immense produce of their labour in these plains. 



BOAR-HUNT. 



245 



hara are the descendants of the ancient Arabs, 
whose bold and figurative language is the same 
that was spoken in Arabia twelve centuries ago, 
in the time of Muhamed. 

Passing early one morning by a douar, in the 
territory of Howara g , I was invited to join a 
party to hunt the wild boar. The plains of 
Howara, between the city of Terodant and 
Santa Cruz, abound with boars : we started, 
in a few hours, seven of these animals, two 
of which were taken and killed. The dogs 
best calculated for this sport are what they call 
sereet telt, or the third race of greyhounds, 
which is a very strong dog. One of these, 
I observed, attacked the boars by the nape 
of the neck, and never left his hold till the 
other dogs came up to the attack : although the 
boar would toss him about in all directions, he 
never left his hold. The Arabs of Suse are very 
dextrous and active at this sport : they hunt with 
javelins ; some have guns, which they fire when 
opportunity offers, but they never expend their 
powder and shot (batdl) vainly, as they express it, 
but always make sure of their mark. I could not 
but admire this celebrated (stogie) greyhound ; 



which require no dung, nor any preparation but the plough, 
soon rewards their industry, so as to determine them to con- 
tinue this new mode of life, 

5 In the 815th year of the Hejira, an emigration from the 
Howara Arabs attacked, took possession of, and destroyed 
the city of Assouan, in Egypt. 



246 



PLAN OF COMMERCE. 



which the Arab to whom it belonged observing, 
insisted on my taking it home to Santa Cruz, 
adding, that whenever I wished to hunt, to let 
him know, and he would accompany me. I of- 
fered him a present of money for the dog, which 
is what I never had refused before in the provinces 
north of Suse ; but he declined the offer, saying 
he was more than recompensed already by the 
establishment of the port of Santa Cruz. " My- 
self, my family, my kabyl," said he, " hail you 
as a father ; (e moot alllc) they will die in your 
cause." No favour could have equalled that of 
re-establishing the commerce of Agadeer. These 
circumstances serve to show what reception 
might be expected from these people, if the 
British Government would negociate with the 
Emperor for the purchase of the port of Agadeer, 
or Santa Cruz, preparatory to the establishment 
of a commerce with Timbuctoo, and other re- 
gions of Sudan. 



247 



PLAN 

FOR THE 

GRADUAL CIVILISATION OF AFRICA. 

On the Commercial Intercourse with Africa, through the 
Sahara and Ashantee, 

To cultivate an extensive commercial inter- 
course with Africa, I have already observed, 
that the best method, the simplest, and that 
which is, from contingent circumstances, the 
most likely to succeed, is the plan which I have 
pointed out in the following prospectus. I 
shall now offer several reasons why this plan is 
superior to any other hitherto suggested. 

The riches of the Arabs of Sahara generally, as 
well as of that part which I have contemplated 
as a convenient spot for establishing a colony, 
and for opening a communication with Sudan, 
consists exclusively in camels. The independ- 
ence of a man is there ascertained by the number 
of camels he possesses ; it is not said, how many 
thousand dollars has he ? or, what quantity of 
gold does he possess ? or, what land has he ? 
but, how many camels does he own ? The master 
of these, aptly denominated, ships of the Desert, 
is urged by interest to let on hire his camels, as 



<248 



COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE 



the master of a ship of the ocean is urged by in- 
terest to seek freight for his ship. And it is ob- 
served, that the ferocious appearance among the 
Arabs, (which is too often assumed,) subsides 
in proportion to the intercourse they have with 
merchants, who negociate with them for the 
transport of their goods. Thus, at the depots 
for camels between the cultivated country and 
the Desert, viz. at Alcka, Tatta, Ufran, and 
TVedinoo?i, the ferocity of the Arabs is greatly 
lost in the commercial spirit and endeavour 
to let their camels on hire to the merchants. 
The MografFra, the Woled Abbusebah, and 
the Tejakant Arabs, therefore, who possess the 
Sahara, from the shores of the Atlantic to the 
confines of Timbuctoo, would act in concert 
with the colony, and would have a joint interest 
in promoting their commercial views. The Bra- 
beesh Arabs who receive, occasionally, tribute 
from Timbuctoo, would also find it expedient to 
promote the commerce of Sudan, and the pro- 
sperity of Timbuctoo ; both which would neces- 
sarily be united to their own interest, and would 
provide a demand for their camels. 

If the profits of this commerce, when once 
established and secured to the British, w r ere to 
be cent, per cent., the whole would remain a 
bonus to the colony. There would be no shereef 
of Fezzan, or bashaw of Tripoli, to take their 
share of the profits, in any shape, in exchange 
for the privilege of being suffered to pass through 
their country. But, on the contrary, the Arabs 



WITH AFRICA. 



249 



of the Mograffra and other tribes would find it 
so evidently their interest and advantage to be 
friendly with us, that we might absolutely have 
the entire command of the Desert, from the 
shores of the Atlantic to the city of Timbuctoo, 
which would eventually throw such a weight of 
power into our hands, as to make even that city 
itself, in a manner, tributary to us. 

A plan of this kind should be executed upon 
a grand national scale, and be pursued with dis- 
cretion and perseverance. 

An attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo, through 
Ashantee, and establish a commerce through 
that country, might meet with temporary success ; 
but I apprehend that we should labour under 
the same inconveniences, and be subject to the 
same arbitrary imposts and exactions, whether 
in the shape of duties, part of the profits, or 
otherwise, as we should, by opening a commu- 
nication through Tripoli. There would be a 
present or douceur to the king of Ashantee ; 
others to the princes of the adjoining territories; 
and, finally, (taking the character of this king 
to be as represented by the late traveller in that 
country, Mr. Bowdich), might we not reason- 
ably anticipate 'that, on the first dispute res- 
pecting the division of the profits, the king of 
Ashantee would order all the English out of his 
country, and, to terminate the dispute, plunder 
them of their property ? But, perhaps the esta- 
blishment of a colony in Ashantee, conjoined to 
one in Sahara, might not be objectionable. We 



250 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 



should then have two routs to the grand em- 
porium of central Africa : if one failed, the 
other would remain open for our countrymen 
to recover their property and to return by ; and 
thus, in establishing a commercial intercourse 
with the interior of Africa, through two routes, 
we should secure, at the same time, our retreat, 
by one of them, and not remain at the mercy 
of the barbarous king of Ashantee, or any other 
African potentate, who might be urged, from 
jealousy or avarice, to sacrifice our people, when 
once he had them in his power ! 



251 



PROSPECTUS OF A PLAN 



FOR FORMING A 



NORTH AFRICAN OR SUDAN COMPANY, 

To be instituted for the purpose of establishing an extensive 
Commerce with, and laying open to British Enterprise, 
all the Interior Regions of North Africa. 



OBJECTS OF THE SOCIETY. 

1st. To lay open the interior regions of North 
Africa to British enterprise — to supply those 
vast and unexplored countries with British ma- 
nufactures, with East-India goods, and with 
colonial produce. 

2dly, To encourage our manufactories, by 
opening a new market calculated to improve the 
revenue of the country, to provide employment 
for the labouring poor, and to enrich the mer- 
cantile community ; the genial irtflnence of which 
sources of prosperity will necessarily diffuse itself 
through all classes. 

3dly, To facilitate, through the medium of 
commerce {the only medium by which it can pos- 
sibly be effected), the exploration of the interior 
regions of Africa, (which have remained to this 
day a sealed book, notwithstanding the many ad- 
venturous expeditions that have been undertaken,) 
by opening a communication with the natives 



252 COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE 



of that vast and little- known continent, and by 

CALLING TO OUR AID THE CO-OPERATION OF 
THE NATIVE CHIEFS, BY HOLDING OUT TO THEM 
THE BENEFITS WHICH THEY WILL DERIVE FROM 
COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE AS A REWARD FOR 
THEIR ASSISTANCE AND EXERTIONS IN PROMOTING 
THIS DESIRABLE OBJECT. 

For these purposes it is proposed — 
That the funds to be raised be one hundred 
thousand pounds, in shares of one hundred 
pounds each. Ten shares to constitute a di- 
rector. 

The spot proposed to be fixed on as the point 
of communication, and commercial depot, be- 
tween Great Britain and the interior of Africa 
is safe and healthy : it will afford a direct 
communication with Timbuctoo and the interior 
regions of Sudan, without being subject to the 
uncertainty of securing the favour and protection 
of the various sultans and sheiks of the respective 
territories of the interior, through which the 
merchants and traders may pass — a measure 
which would have been indispensable in every 
plan that has hitherto been suggested for the 
discovery of those interesting regions. 

The plan now to be adopted, on the contrary, 
will be subject to none of those impediments 
and uncertainties ; but the merchants and tra- 
vellers will pass through territories where they 
need fear no hostility, but will be received with 
hospitality and attention by the natives, who will 
give them every assistance and accommodation 
in their progress through their country. 



"WITH AFRICA. 



253 



Connected with this plan, a school for in- 
structing the British youth in African Arabic, 
so as to initiate them in the rudiments of that 
language previously to their departure for Africa, 
might be established, under the direction of 
James Grey Jackson, professor of African 
Arabic, &c. 

The present scheme has been many years in 
contemplation, but no favourable opportunity 
of making it thus public having hitherto oc- 
curred, it is now offered to the public, in con- 
sequence of the energies lately manifested by 
France and by America for African colonisation, 
and also by Holland. 

The projectors, for the honour of their own 
country, are anxious that Great Britain may not, 
through supineness, suffer this important dis- 
covery to be wrested from her by any foreign 
power, but that she should at least share the 
glory due to this important achievement, the 
completion of which would immortalize the prince 
who should cherish it to its maturity. 

Capitalists, and gentlemen resident in Great 
Britain, desirous of further information on this 
subject, may address themselves to James Grey 
Jackson, whose residence, at any time, may be 
known at Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, 
and Brown, London. 

TO THE BRITISH PUBLIC. 

London, 31st March, 1819. 
The above plan is ingenuously, liberally, and 
disinterestedly submitted to the consideration of 



254 COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE 

British capitalists and merchants of respect- 
ability. The advantages to be derived from such 
an establishment as is here contemplated, if not 
evident to Great Britain, is clearly visible to 
Holland, to France, and to America. 

The projector, therefore, without mentioning 
the offers that have been made to him by a 
foreign maritime power, and without courting the 
suffrages of British merchants in support of this 
plan, has it in contemplation, (provided no atten- 
tion is paid to it in England,) to lay this eligible 
scheme open to a foreign power. If, therefore, the 
projector should accept employment in this 
undertaking from a foreign power, it will be in 
the conviction, that it is more to the interest of 
mankind in general, and to Europe in partieular, 
that this plan for opening an extensive, lucrative, 
and beneficial commerce with Africa, (which would 
necessarily lead to its civilisation,) should be 
known to, and adopted by, a foreign power, than 
that this vast and little-known continent should, 
(to the indelible disgrace of civilised Europe,) 
still continue to remain an useless and an un- 
discovered country to the present generation ! 

James Grey Jackson. 

Appendix to the foregoing Prospectus, being an Epitome 
of the Trade carried on by Great Britain and the 
European States in the Mediterranean, indirectly with 
Timbuctoo, the Commercial Depot of North Africa, 
and with other States of Sudan. 

Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and other com- 
mercial ports of France and Italy, as well as of 



WITH AFRICA. 



255 



Spain, send to Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, and 
Egypt, for the markets of Sudan, manufactured 
silks, damask, brocade, velvets, raw silk, combs 
of box and ivory, gold-thread, paper, manufac- 
tured sugar, cochineal, and various other mer- 
chandise. 

Great Britain sends to the Barbary ports in 
the Mediterranean, and to Mogodor on the 
Atlantic Ocean (which are afterwards conveyed 
to Timbuctoo), for distribution at the several 
markets of Sudan — 

East India Goods, viz. — Gum benjamin, 
cassia, cinnamon, mace, nutmegs, cloves, ginger, 
black pepper, Bengal silk, China silks, nankeens, 
blue linens, long cloths, and muslins (mulls). 

West India Produce. — Pimento, tobacco, 
coffee, cocoa, and manufactured sugar. 

Linens. — Dimities, plattilias, creas, rouans, 
Britannias, cambrics, and Irish linens. 

Hardware. — Iron nails, copper ditto, brass 
ditto, sword blades, dagger ditto, guns, gun- 
powder, knives, &c. &c. 

ClotJis. — Superfine, of plain brilliant colours, 
not mixtures, and cassimeres. And various 
other articles of merchandise. 

Immense quantities of salt are also sent to 
Timbuctoo, which is for the most part collected 
at the mines of Tishet and Shangareen, (see the 
map of northern and central Africa, in the New 
Supplement to the Encyclopaedia Britannica,) 
through which the caravan would pass to Tim- 
buctoo. 



256 INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 



The following are the articles purchased by 
the Moors and Arab traders, and are the returns 
brought back to Barbary from Sudan ; viz. 

Gold dust, and trinkets of pure Wangara 
gold, of various fashions, of the manufacture of 
Housa and Jinnie. — B'Kore Sudan (fumiga- 
tion of Sudan), a kind of frankincense highly 
esteemed by the Africans. Ostrich feathers 
(the finest in the world). Elephants' Teeth. 
Korkidan, so called by the Arabs, being the 
horns of the rhinoceros : these are a very costly 
article, and are in high estimation among the 
muselmen, for sword-hilts and dagger-handles. 
Guza Sarawie (Grains of Paradise). Gum Copal 
Assafoetida, and a great variety of drugs for 
manufacturing uses, and various roots for dye- 
ing. Ebony. Camwood. Sandal wood. Indigo, 
equal to that of Guatimala : to which may 
be added, the command of the gum trade of 
Senegal. 

All the foregoing merchandise being first 
landed at Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, Algiers, 
and Tetuan, and other Barbary ports in the 
Mediterranean, as well as at Mogodor on the 
western coast of Africa, are afterwards sold to 
the Muhamedan merchants, who sell them with 
a very good profit to other Moors. These goods 
frequently go through three, four, and five 
hands, before they reach the consumer in Sudan, 
subject to a profit gained by each holder of from 
twenty to thirty per cent. ; the last purchaser, 
who conveys them through the Desert, however, 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 25J 

expects, and generally obtains, from fifty to sixty 
per cent, profit on them, to which he considers 
himself entitled, from the fatigue and privations 
of his passage through the Desert, during a 
journey through a country, for the most part 
barren, of above fifteen hundred miles in length ; 
through various kingdoms and principalities, 
subject to a charge for (statta) convoy at the 
exit and entrance of each respective state or 
district on each side of the Sahara, as well as 
in the Sahara itself. 

But, according to the plan here suggested to 
the commercial community, all these various 
articles, instead of passing through five several 
hands, would now pass through only two hands, 
viz. through those of the shippers in England, 
and those of their agents established on the 
western coast of Africa, who would sell them 
directly to the Timbuctoo trader, which latter, 
instead of having several principalities and king- 
doms to pass through (at the exit from each of 
which, as well as at the entrance of them, he 
would have a charge for protection or convoy, 
called statta, levied on the goods), would have 
no convoy-charge, or statta, to pay ; he would 
have but ten hundred, instead of fifteen or six- 
teen hundred miles to go, being about two-thirds 
of the distance of the road from Tunis or Tri- 
poli, through Fezzan, to Timbuctoo. 

N. B. There is an immense bank near the 
contemplated depot, or port (abounding in fish, 
which now supplies the waks> or cultivated 



258 INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 



spots in the desert, as well as the territories on 
the southern confines thereof), which pro- 
duces fish sufficient to supply the whole of the 
interior of Africa, as well as the shores of the 
Mediterranean, &c. &c. 



Letter from Vasco de Gama 9 in elucidation of 
this Plan. 

Sir, 

The Society of Encouragement for National 
Industry in France, has granted prizes for 
various discoveries in the arts and sciences but 
I wish government, or some society of our own 
country, would offer a liberal prize for the best 
mode of colonising Africa, and for meliorating 
the condition of the inhabitants of that vast and 
little known continent. A well-digested plan 
for the discovery of this continent might be fol- 
lowed by the most desirable events. The efforts 
of the African Association have, to say the least, 
been lamentably disastrous ; little good can be 
anticipated from the efforts of solitary or 
scientific travellers in a country where science 
is not cultivated, and where the travellers know 
little or nothing of the a general language of 

* The general language of North Africa is the Western 
Arabic, with a knowledge of which language, a traveller 
may make himself intelligible wherever he may go ; either 
in the negro countries of Sudan, in Egypt, Abyssinia, Sahara, 
or Barbary, 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 259 

Africa, or of the manners and dispositions of 
the natives. 

A knowledge therefore of the African Arabic 
appears indispensable to this great undertaking; 
and it should seem that a commercial adventurer 
is much more likely to obtain his object than a 
scientific traveller, for this plain reason, — 
because it is much easier to persuade the 
Africans that we travel into their country for 
the purposes of commerce and its result — profit, 
than to persuade them that we are so anxious to 
ascertain the course of their rivers ! 

Accordingly, it was aptly observed by the 
Negroes of Congo, when they learned that 
Captain Tuckey came not to trade nor to make 
war ; " What then come for ? only to take walk 
and make book ?" 

I do not mean now to lay down a plan for 
the colonisation of Africa, or for opening an 
extensive commerce with that vast continent, 
but I would suggest the propriety of the 
method by which the East India Company 
govern their immense territories. I would wish 
to see an African Company formed on an exten- 
sive scale, with a large capital. I am convinced 
that such a company would be of more service 
to the commerce of this country than the 
present India trade, where the natives, without 
being in want of our manufactures, surpass us in 
ingenuity. But the Africans, on the contrary, 
are in want of our manufactured goods, and 
give immense sums for them. According to a 



260 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 



late author, wno has given us the fullest de- 
scription b of Timbuctoo c and its vicinity, a Plat- 
tilia is there worth fifty Mexico dollars, or twenty 
meezens of gold, each meezen being worth two 
and a half Mexico dollars ; a piece of Irish linen 
of ordinary quality, and measuring twenty-five 
yards, is worth seventy-five Mexico dollars ; and 
a quintal of loaf sugar is worth one hundred 
Mexico dollars. Now if we investigate the par- 
simonious mode of traversing the Desert, we shall 
find that a journey of 1500 English miles is 
performed from Fas to Timbuctoo at the rate of 
forty shillings sterling per quintal, so that loaf 
sugar (a weighty and bulky article) can be 
rendered from London at Timbuctoo through 
Tetuan and Fas, including the expense of a 
land-carriage of 1500 miles at about 61. per 
quintal, thus : 

Refined sugar on board in London for s. d. 

per cwt. - - - - 70 
Duty on importation in any part of 

Marocco, ten per cent. - - 7 

Freight, &c. five per cent. - 3 6 

Land carriage across the Desert on camels 

to Timbuctoo - - - 40 

s. 120 6 



b See new Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britamuca, 
article Africa, page 98. 

c See the account of Timbuctoo appended to Jackson's 
account of Marocco, published by Cadell and Davies, 
London, Chap. 13. 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 



261 



So that if 1001b. of loaf sugar rendered at 
Timbuctoo cost 1205. 6d. and sells there for 100 
Mexico dollars at 4ts. 6d. each, or for 22/. 5s. 
there will result a profit of 270 per cent. 

The profit in fine goods, such as the linens 
before mentioned, is still more considerable, not 
being subject to so heavy a charge for carriage. 
The immense quantity of d gold dust and gold 
bars that would be brought from Timbuctoo, 
Wangara, Gana, and other countries, in ex- 
change for this merchandise, would be incal- 
culable, and has, perhaps, never yet been con- 
templated by Europeans I ! — In the same work, 
above quoted, 3d edition, page 289, will be 
found a list of the various merchandise export- 
able from Great Britain, which suit the market 
of the interior of Africa or Sudan : and also a 
list of the articles which we should receive in 
return for those goods. 

Plans to penetrate to the mart of Timbuctoo 
(which would supply Housa, Wangara, Gana, 
and other districts of Sudan with European 
merchandize) have been formed ; but if a treaty 
of commerce were made with any of the Negro 
kings, these plans would be subject to various 
impediments. 

d The Kings, David and Solomon, extracted from Africa 
to enrich the temple of Jerusalem upwards of 800,000,000/. 
sterling, a sum sufficient to discharge the national debt ; see 
Commercial Magazine for May 1819, page 6.; which is eight 
times as much gold as the mines of Brazil have produced 
since their discovery in 1756. See Commercial Magazine 
for the same month, page 44. 



262 INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 

The goods, in passing through hostile terri- 
tories, (these sovereigns living in a state of con- 
tinual warfare with each other,) would be sub- 
ject to innumerable imposts ; it would therefore 
be expedient to form a plan whereby the goods 
should reach Timbuctoo through an eligible part of 
the Desert : but some persons who have been in 
the habit of trading for gum to Portandik, have 
declared the inhabitants of Sahara to be a 
wild and savage race, untractable and not to be 
civilised by commerce, or by any other means. 
This I must beg leave to contradict : the Arabs 
of Sahara, from their wandering habits, are cer- 
tainly wild, and they are hostile to all who do 
not understand their language ; but if two or 
three Europeans capable of holding colloquial 
intercourse with them, were to go and establish 
a factory on their coast, and then suggest to 
them the benefit they would derive, being the 
carriers of such a trade as is here contemplated, 
their ferocity would be transferred forthwith 
into that virtue in the practice of which they 
so eminently excel all other nations, hospitality ; 
and the most inviolable alliance might be formed 
with such a people. I speak not from the 
experience of books, but from an actual inter- 
course, and from having passed many years of 
my youth among them. 

An advantageous spot might be fixed upon 

• Not Jews, because the Arabs (of the Desert) have a 
great contempt for them, and execrate them. 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 263 

on the western coast, in an independent district, 
where our alliance would be courted, from 
which the Kafila f or Akkaba would have to 
pass through only one tribe with perfect safety, 
and subject to no impost whatever ; neither 
would they be subject to any duty on entering 
the town of Timbuctoo, as they would enter at 
the Beb Sahara, or gate of the Desert, which 
exempts them from duty or impost. 

That civilisation would be the result of com- 
merce, and that the trade in slaves would de- 
crease with the increase of our commerce with 
these people, there can be little doubt ; and, 
independent of the advantages of an extensive 
commerce, the consolation would be great to 
the Christian and to the Philosopher, of having 
converted millions of brethren made in the per- 
fection of God's image, and endowed with 
reason, from barbarism to civilisation, if not to 
Christianity ! ! ! 

Let us hope, then, that some of the intelligent 
readers of your luminous and interesting pages 
will direct their attention to this great national 
object, and produce an eligible and well- 
digested plan for the cultivation of a mutual 
intercourse through the medium of commerce with 
Africa^ and for the civilisation of that hitherto 
neglected continent. 

Vasco de Gam a. 

Eton, 28th May, 1819. 



f Caravan. 



264 INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 



On Commercial Intercourse with Africa. 
(to the editor of the monthly magazine.) 

Sir, 

The plan of your correspondent, for opening 
a commercial intercourse with the interior of 
Africa, appears to me so direct and simple, that 
I am only surprised it has not been thought of 
before. The Moors are the merchants of Africa ; 
the chain of communication that runs from the 
states of Barbary to the negro kingdoms, and 
from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the 
Red Sea. To judge of the humanity of these 
people from the accounts of shipwrecked sailors, 
whom they have dragged into slavery, and then 
liberated for money, would be not less fallacious 
than to estimate the character of the English 
nation from the plunderers of the wrecks on 
their coast. From such accounts, the name of 
Moor has inspired us with horror ; and Park's 
detention at the camp of Ali, one of their chiefs, 
has contributed to confirm it. Park, however, 
so far from endeavouring to conciliate his cap- 
tors, endeavoured, by his own confession, to 
appear as contemptible as possible in their eyes ; 
and yet, with this disadvantage, the greater part 
of the miseries he endured proceeded from the 
climate and the irritation of his own mind. 

The Arabs of Sahara are the carriers of mer- 
chandize throughout North Africa, and the 
Moors are in the constant habit of selling gum 
to the French on the Senegal. The French say 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 265 

they are perfidious ; but they give no proof of it 
that I have seen. I have met with a French tra- 
veller, who owns that his countrymen deceive 
them either in the weight or measure of the gum 
they purchase. 

Bruce found a friend in every Moorish mer- 
chant, and integrity and intelligence in all. 
And where should these qualities be found in a 
country like the interior of Africa, in which 
learning has no place but among merchants ? 

So much for the proposed carriers of English 
goods to Timbuctoo. Now for the road. The 
fertile parts of Africa are hot and humid, un- 
wholesome and dangerous; and the kings are 
often at war with each other. Park experienced 
both these evils ; and the wonder was, not so 
much that he perished on his second journey, as 
that he returned from his first. The Desert is 
dry and heathful. It is sprinkled with fertile 
spots, which form a succession of known resting- 
places, and the distance between each requires 
a certain number of days to travel. The Moors 
are at home in Sahara ; and, when they go long 
journeys, the fertile spots are their inns. The 
road from the coast of Sahara is also the shortest 
that has yet been pointed out to Timbuctoo. 

If the means of executing the plan appear suf- 
ficient, it is not necessary to say any thing in 
favour of the object: the exchange of British 
manufactures for gold, speaks for itself. But 
there is no time to be lost. The French settle- 
ment of Gal am is advantageously situated for 
commerce with Timbuctoo : a Frenchman has 



266 



IMPEDIMENTS TO OUR 



already travelled from Galam to that city, I be- 
lieve on a commercial speculation, and he has 
returned safe* 

Catherine Hutton. 

Impediments to our Intercourse with Africa. 

When we consider the maritime strength of 
Great Britain ; her command of the ocean ; the 
vicinity to Europe of West Barbary, one of the 
finest countries in the world; the rich and 
valuable produce which is cultivated in this 
country ; — when we consider that our garrison of 
Gibraltar is in its vicinage, and but a few hours' 
sail from it, we are naturally astonished that our 
communication with this country is so limited. 
That we have less commercial communication 
with Barbary, than we have with countries that 
do not open to us any thing like the commercial 
advantages that this country offers, though they 
are thousands of miles from us. It appears rele- 
vant, therefore, to inquire, whence originates this 
impeded intercourse? There are two great 
impediments to our free intercourse with 
Sudan through Marocco : viz., a general ignor- 
ance of the Arabic language, as spoken in the 
latter country; and the repugnancy of the 
Muhamedan religion to that of Christ. With 
respect to the first of these impediments, it is 
remarkable that this learned language is so 
little known in Europe, — this language, the 
most prevalent in the world, a language which 



INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 267 



is spoken or understood almost without inter- 
mission from the western shores of Africa on 
the Atlantic ocean, to the confines of China, — a 
language understood, wherever Muhamedans are 
to be found, throughout all the populous and 
commercial regions of Africa, from the Western 
Ocean to the Red Sea, and from the Mediter- 
ranean to the country of KafFers, g in the vicinage 
of the Cape of Good Hope. With respect to 
the second of these impediments, the repug- 
nancy of the Muhamedan religion to that of 
Christ, it may justly be observed, that this is 
not really so great as we are apt to imagine ; 
the moral principles of Muhamedans being not 
unlike those of the former Christians, being in 
fact a composition of Hebrew and Christian 
morality. They acknowledge Jesus Christ to 
be a prophet, and tell us, that, in this respect, 
they are on the safe side, as we impute no 
Divine authority to Muhamed. But a most 
violent repugnance to Christians has been propa- 
gated by the (Fakeers) Muselmen saints, or holy 
men. They have industriously circulated the 
belief of an old superstitious prediction which 
they have on record, viz. that the Christians will 
invade the Muhamedan countries, take their 
cities and towns, and establish the Christian re- 

8 Kqffer (or Caffre) is an Arabic word which signifies 
infidels or unbelievers (in Muhamed); the very name has been 
given by Muhamedans, and therefore it is to be presumed 
that the Muhamedans approximate the countries contiguous 
to the Cape. 



268 HOSTILITY IN RELIGION. 



ligion on the ruins of that of Muhamed, and 
take possession of the country. These reports, 
propagated, as before observed, by the (Fakeers) 
Muhamedan saints, among the lower orders, 
have kindled a high degree of rancour and 
animosity, (equal to that which the Catholics 
formerly indulged towards their protestant 
brethren,) which will never be extinguished 
until a friendly alliance and extensive com- 
mercial intercourse be established with them ; 
which alone can soften this rancour and ani- 
mosity into peace and amity. This animosity has 
been increased also by the rancorous anti- 
christian disposition manifested towards these 
people by the writings of Roman catholic 
priests and others. h If these uncharitable opi- 
nions of each other could be eradicated, the 
blessings that would result to the Africans would 
be incalculable ; a reciprocal exchange of good 
offices might pave the way to purchase of the 
Emperor of Marocco the port of Agadeer or 
Santa Cruz, aptly denominated, from its con- 
tiguity to the Sahara (Beb Sudan) " the gate of 
Sudan," which, in the hands of the English, would 
be the key to the whole of the interior of Africa, 
and an effectual link in our chain of communi- 

h See Martin Martinius. Abraham Ecchellensis. Mac- 
carius, Theolog. Polemic. Peter Cevaller. Robert de Retz, 
translator of the Koran. See also the support of this assertion 
in Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, enlarged 
edition, published by Cadell and Davies, Strand, from p. 196. 
to 208. 



ABOLITION OF SLAVERY'. 269 

cation with the interior of that undiscovered 
continent ; it would moreover secure to us the 
entire commerce of those extensive and populous 
regions, to the exclusion of our Moorish compe- 
titors of Cairo, Alexandria, Tripoli, Tunis, 
Algiers, and other ports of Barbary, who supply 
the people of Sudan with European merchandise 
at the fourth, fifth, and sixth hand. 

The abolition of the slave-trade cannot be ef- 
fected until we shall have substituted some com- 
merce with the Negro countries, equivalent at 
least, or that shall be more than equivalent to it, 
otherwise the negro sovereigns of Sudan will 
never be induced to relinquish so great a source 
of profit. Every naval officer in His Majesty's 
service knows, that if we were to have thirty 
sail of the line continually off the coast of Guinea, 
it would not be sufficient to annihilate this abo- 
minable traffic, or to deter people from embark- 
ing in a trade that yields such extraordinary 
profits. This being admitted, as it certainly 
will be by every intelligent man, it follows, that 
the system now in operation by the British go- 
vernment for the abolition of the slave-trade, 
will be attended only with an unnecessary ex- 
pense to this country, without the possibility of 
effecting the desired object; but, on the con- 
trary, judging from recent events, there is every 
reason to presume, that this detestable commerce 
will increase, as it has continued to increase, 
these last two or three years, in spite of all our 
operations to prevent it; the Spaniards alone 



270 



ABOLITION OF SLAVERY 



having imported into the island of Cuba more 
slaves in 1818 and 1819, than in the four pre- 
ceding years. The result has been, that that 
island has produced, in 1819, more than double 
the produce of the former year; their waste 
lands, accordingly, are in progressive cultivation, 
and, if they go on thus improving, that island, 
in a few years hence, will produce coffee and 
sugar sufficient for the supply of all the markets 
of Europe. 

Finally, Slavery will never give way to any 
thing but civilisation ; the civilisation of Africa 
can never be accomplished but through a great 
and extensive commercial intercourse, a com- 
merce that will enrich the negroes, and enable 
them, by a supply of arms, to contend with and 
gain an ascendancy over their Muhamedan op- 
pressors, who want no other pretext for attacking 
them, than that of their being idolaters, which 
idolatry, it is asserted, authorises the Musel- 
man to make them slaves. Thus, the abolition 
of slavery must depend on the Africans themselves; 
and although it is in our power to supply them 
with the means for their emancipation, yet it is 
absurd to suppose that we can effect it by our 
naval operations. If all the great sovereigns of 
Europe were to agree to make the trading in 
slaves piracy, they would not prevent it. We 
cannot emancipate them ; that only can be accom- 
plished by their own energy, awakened in them 
by commercial intercourse, and its accompany- 
ing civilisation. 



BY CIVILISATION. 



271 



Much might be done if all the African socie- 
ties were to unite their interest, knowledge, and 
abilities for this desired object. If the African 
Company would unite their energies with the 
African Association, and with the African Insti- 
tution, such an union would promote the civi- 
lisation of the African continent, and the con- 
version of the Negroes to Christianity. 



ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOSQUES. 

The architecture of this country is of the 
Gothic character. The mosques are built some- 
what like our churches : the body of the 
mosques are covered with green glazed tiles ; 
the steeples are invariably an exact square, the 
sides being ten or twelve feet, not tapering as 
those of Coventry, but the top having the same 
dimensions as the base. At the top is erected a 
smaller square, with a flag-staff* similar to a 
gallows, to which is suspended every day at 
noon, a white flag, the signal of preparation for 
prayers ; but on Fridays, the Muhamedan Sab- 
bath, a dark-blue one is substituted for the same 
purpose. Some of the mosques are paved with 
white and black chequered marble, some are tessel- 
lated pavements, consisting of white, blue, and 
green glazed tiles, about two inches square, a very 
pretty mode of paving, extremely clean, and 
has a very cool appearance ; others are terrassed, 
which is lime and small stones beaten down 



272 



ARCHITECTURE. 



with wooden mallets. They excel in the art of 
making terras. The houses are all flat roofed, 
so as to resist the heaviest rains : the declivity 
of the terrasses is so imperceptible, that it is just 
sufficient to give the rains a tendency to the 
great conduit or pipe that leads to the mitfere 
underneath the house, which is underground, 
and has a terras bottom, impervious to the 
water. Here is collected water sufficient for the 
family or household during the year ; the lime 
that washes into the mitfere from the terrassed 
roof, purifies the water, and preserves it from 
worms and other insects. They have no orna- 
ments in their mosques ; but the place where 
the Mufti or Fakeer reads prayers, is covered 
with mats or carpets ; the rest of the floor is 
bare, and the respective individuals prostrate 
themselves on the bare floor, or on an antelope's 
or Elhorreh 1 skin, or the skin of a lion or tiger, 
prepared in a superior manner by the tanners 
at Marocco, the leather of which is made soft 
as silk, and white as snow. 

The bodies of the dead are never laid in the 
mosques or near them, but are invariably carried 
out of the town, to some coba k in the vicinity. 

1 For a description of this curious animal, see Jackson's 
Marocco, page 83, Chapter on Zoology. 

k A coba is a cubical building, about forty or fifty feet 
square, having a dome on the top, inhabited by a fakeer ; 
the ground adjacent to this building is consecrated for the 
dead, but is never inclosed. The living reverence the dead 
by never riding over these grounds; but travellers, in passing 



FUNERAL CEREMONY OF THE MOORS. 

The bodies of the dead are washed, and covered 
with lawn, and placed on an oblong wooden 
machine, resembling a box without a cover, 
called a kiffen ; it has four legs about six inches 
long, to uphold it from the ground, and two 
horizontal projections at each end, to place on 
the shoulders of four men, generally the nearest 
relations of the deceased, who thus carry the 
body to the grave, chaunting with the whole com- 
pany, amounting sometimes to some hundreds? 
La Allah, ila Allah wa Muhamed Rassule 
Allah, " There is no God but God, and 
Muhamed is the prophet of God." This 
repetition may appear extraordinary to the 
English reader ; but let it be observed that the 
Muhamedans never use the pronoun for the 
name of the Omnipotent, but invariably the 
noun. The body is taken out of the bier, and 
laid in the ground, the face upwards, without 
any coffin or box, the legs towards Mecca, and 
then covered with earth, so that it might, at the 
resurrection, rise with its eyes towards {El 
Kaaba) Muhamed's mausoleum. No money is 
paid for the ground, nor is any expense paid for 
a monument : a stick or a stone stands erect at 
the head, and another at the feet. If the de- 



stop and repeat a fatha. When the ground has been con- 
secrated to the dead, and the coba has an inhabitant, who 
must be a sanctified person, he immediately assumes the 
name of fakeer or priest, and the building, and cemetery 
attached to it, becomes a zotvia or sanctuary. 



274 



ARCHITECTURE. 



ceased lived a moral, inoffensive, and exemplary 
life, the public, at its own expense, oftentimes 
erects (koba) a cubical building with a dome at 
the top to the departed, and he is thence de- 
nominated (faheer) a saint. 

The palaces of this country generally consist 
of a perfect square wall, containing from two to 
forty acres of land, or more ; for the imperial 
palace at Mequinas covers about two square 
miles of ground. At each corner of the square 
is a cubical building, with an angular top, 
of green glazed tiles, having four windows, 
one in each side ; in the centre of the square 
is the palace, surrounded by a colonnade 
one or two stories high. The pavement is 
either tessellated or of chequered marble ; some 
of the walls of the rooms are also tessella- 
ted with arabesque, borders, the ceilings are 
painted with gay colours, viz. scarlet, sky-blue, 
green, yellow, and orange, in arabesque, and 
some of them are very elegant. The houses 
of the opulent are diminutive imitations 
of the palaces. The house of (the Talb Cd- 
duse) the minister of the Sultan Seedi Muha- 
med ben Abd Allah at Marocco, is a building 
elegantly neat. Abd Rahamen ben Nassar's 
house at Mogodor, is well deserving the investi- 
gation of an European architect, and his 
magnificent new house at SafFee, is a model of 
a particular style of architecture. Some of the 
houses of the princes and the military at 
Mequinas are handsome buildings, and many of 



GARDENS AT FAS. 



275 



the houses of the opulent merchants at Fas, 
who have their commercial establishments at 
Timbuctoo, and other countries of Sudan, are 
extremely neat and truly unique, having beau- 
tiful gardens in the interior, ornamented with 
the choicest and most odoriferous flowers and 
shrubs ; with fountains of running water, clear 
as crystal, delectable to behold in this warm 
climate, and such as are not to be seen in any 
part of Europe. 



2?8 



FRAGMENTS, NOTES, 

AND 

ANECDOTES ; 

Illustrating the Nature and Character of the Country. 



INTRODUCTION. 

In recording the following Anecdotes and Frag- 
ments the naked truth is stated, without the em- 
bellishments of language, or the labour of rhe- 
toric, which the wiser part of mankind have 
always approved of as the most instructive way 
of writing ; and all such as are acquainted with 
books will readily agree with me, that many au- 
thors stretch, even to the prejudice of truth, 
from an affectation of elegance of style. 

The following facts, therefore, will form the 
materials for a history, rather than a history 
itself. 

The study of the language and customs of the 
Arabs is the best comment upon the Old Testament. 
The language of the modern Jews is little to 
be regarded ; their dispersion into various na- 
tions, having no fixed habitation, being wholly 



FRAGMENTS. 



^77 



addicted to their own interest, their conforma- 
tion to the respective customs of the various na- 
tions through which they are dispersed ; have 
caused them, in a great measure, to forget their 
ancient customs and original language, except 
what is preserved in the Bible and in the ex- 
ercise of their religion. Whereas the Arabs have 
continued in the constant possession of their 
country many centuries, and are so tenacious 
of their customs and habits, that they are, at 
this day, the same men they were three thousand 
years ago. Accordingly, many of their customs, 
at this day, remind us of what happened among 
their ancestors in the days of Abraham. 

Trade with Sudan, 
1795, June 14th. Two (Akkabas) accumu- 
lated caravans of Gum Sudan, called in Eng- 
lnd " Turkey* Gum Arabic, 3 ' have reached the 
Arab encampment of Dikna, not far from the 
northern confines of the Sahara ; and will be at 
Santa Cruz, in the province of Suse, in a fort- 
night. 

Wrecked Ships. 
A large ship, supposed to be Spanish, bound 
to Lima, has been wrecked near Cape Noon •> 

a This gum is conveyed from Sudan to Alexandria, in 
Egypt; there it is shipped off for Smyrna, or Constantinople, 
and from thence imported into England. 



278 



FRAGMENTS 



the cargo consists of lace, silks, linens, superfine 
cloths, and is estimated by the Jews, at Wed- 
inoon, to be worth half a million of dollars. 

JVrecked Ships on the Coast. 

Extract of a Letter from James Jackson, and Co. 
at Mogodor, to their correspondents in Lon- 
don. January, 1801. 

The wine and dollars per the Perola de Se- 
tubal, wrecked on the coast of Suse, have been 
recovered from the Arabs, by Alkaid Hamo, 
the governor of Santa Cruz ; and we have just 
received them safe by a boat. If this vessel had 
been wrecked on the coast of Cornwall, it is 
more than probable that the cargo would have 
been plundered. We have presented the go- 
vernor with twenty dollars, for his extraordinary 
energy, exertions, and great merit in the re- 
covery of the whole of this property. 

The Prosperous, Captain Driver, a south- 
whaler, was wrecked near Cape Noon, in 1790 ; 
the crew was redeemed by me, and brought to 
my house at Santa Cruz, after being upwards 
of two years in captivity in the Desert : and I 
sent them all from Santa Cruz to Mogodor on 
mules, where, after remaining about two months, 
the Bull-dog sloop of war came down from 
Gibraltar for them, and they were sent off to 
her by the imperial order. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



279 



Wrecked Sailors. 

English seamen that are so unfortunate as to 
be wrecked on the coast of Sahara, are generally 
better treated than the French, Italian, or 
Spanish, because there is a greater probability 
of a ransom \ and because it is well known that 
the English admit no slaves in their own 
country. 

Timbuctoo Coffee. 

Coffee grows spontaneously in the vicinage of 
Timbuctoo, south of the Nile Elabeed. I sent 
a quantity to Mr. James Willis, formerly Con- 
sul for Senegambia : it was of a bitter taste, 
which is the general character of this grain be- 
fore it is improved by cultivation* 

Sand Baths. 

The Arabs bury the body erect in sand, up to 
the chin, as a remedy for several disorders, 
particularly syphilis. 

Civil War common in West Barbary. 

In the provinces of Haha and Suse, particu- 
larly in the mountainous districts, intestine wars 
frequently prevail : kabyl against kabyl, village 
against village, house against hou^e, family 
against family. In these lamentable wars, which 



280 



FRAGMENTS 



so continually disturb the peace of society, re- 
taliation is considered an incumbent duty on 
every individual who may have lost a relation, 
so that the embers of hostility are thus inces- 
santly fanned ; and this lamentable revenge 
pervades whole clans, to the utter destruction 
of every humane and philanthropic propensity, 
converting the human race to a degradation 
below the beasts of the field. 

Policy of the Servants of the Emperor. 

The Bashaws, and others holding responsible 
situations in the empire, are continually pur- 
chasing a good name and good report at court, 
by courtesy to and by feeing the ministers of 
the Emperor to report favourably of them, 
whenever opportunity may offer. Incredible 
sums are sometimes expended in this way. 

El b Wah El Grarbee, or the Western Oasis. 

The prince, Muley Abd Salam, elder brother of 
the reigning Emperor, Muley Soliman, purchased, 
on his return from the pilgrimage to Mecca, 
a domain in (Santariah c ) the Oasis of Ammon 

b In the Lybian Desert there are three JVaks (or Oasises, 
as we call them) : the greater, called El Wah El Kabeer ; 
the lesser, called El Wah Segrer ; and the Oasis of Ammon, 
called El Wah El Grarbie, i. e. the Wah of the West. 

c The Wah of the West is also called by the Mograbines 
Santariah. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



281 



or Siwah, as a retreat ; and being appointed by 
his father Seedi Muhamed, viceroy of the pro- 
vince of Suse d , he was enabled to give succour 
to the Shelluhs, inhabitants of that province, 
on their pilgrimage to Mecca, and to entertain 
them with the comforts of hospitality on their 
passage through the Desert. This was the more 
agreeable to these Shelluhs, because, after 
passing a long journey of some thousands of 
miles through Sahara, they reached, at Santa- 
riah, not only a territory yielding every com- 
fort and necessary of life, but a country where- 
in their own prince had authority, and wherein 
their own native language is spoken and under- 
stood. 

When this prince's father, the emperor Seedi 
Muhamed died % the prince Abdsalam engaged 
Alkaid Hamed ben Abdsaddock, late governor 
of Mogodor, to go to Santariah, and sell this do- 
main for him ; which he accordingly did. It is 
more than probable that the Shelluhs of Siwah 
are an emigration from Suse. 

Prostration, the etiquette of the Court of Marocca* 

An ambassador from Great Britain was sent to 
the court of Marocco, during the reign of Seedi 

d See the map of West Barbary. 
c About twenty-eight years since. 



282 



FRAGMENTS 



Muhamed, father of the present emperor, Soli- 
man. On his arrival at Fas, (where the court 
was at that time held,) the {Mule M'shoer) 
Master of the Audience, who was the (Sherreef ) 
Prince Muley Dris, came up to the ambassador 
and informed him, that it was customary for all 
persons coming into the imperial presence to 
take off their shoes, and to prostrate themselves. 
To these ceremonies the ambassador objected, 
alleging that he was received by the king his 
master with his shoes on > and that he presumed 
the Emperor, on a proper representation being 
made to him, would not exact from him greater 
obedience than he paid to his own sovereign. 
The master of the audience reported the inter- 
pretation of the ambassador's remarks to his im- 
perial master. The emperor paused, and (insi- 
nuating that the ambassador was somewhat pre- 
sumptuous in placing a Christian king on a par 
with a Muselman emperor) commanded the 
prince to dismiss the ambassador for that time, 
till the following day. In the interim, the 
Emperor urged the master of the audience to 
make diligent inquiry how the Christians con- 
ducted themselves in the act of prayer before 
the Almighty God ; and whether they then un- 
covered their feet, and prostrated themselves, as 
Muhamedans did. The morning following, the 
master of audience procured the necessary in- 
formation respecting this point, and acquainted 
the Emperor that the English Christians, like 

21 



AND ANECDOTES. 



283 



the Jews, prayed erect ; but that they uncovered 
their heads, and bowed at the name of Jesus of 
Nazareth. " Go, then," replied the emperor, 
" and let the ambassador be presented to me 
without uncovering his feet, and without pro- 
stration ; for I cannot require more obeisance 
from a foreigner, than he himself pays to Al- 
mighty God." 

Massacre of the Jews, and Attack on Algiers. 

In the year 1806, when Algiers was attacked 
by the Arabs of the mountains, and by the inha- 
bitants of the plains, the Jews of the city were 
massacred. It was suggested to the present Em- 
peror of Marocco that a favourable opportunity 
now offered to subdue Algiers, and add it to the 
empire : but the Emperor replied, " That it was 
wiser to secure and keep together all those pro- 
vinces that his father had left him, than to en- 
deavour by uncertain and expensive warfare to 
extend his dominions, by invading a neigh- 
bouring nation." 

Treaties with Muhamedan Princes. 

Treaties of peace and commerce between the 
Muselmen princes and Christian powers, are re- 
garded by the former no longer than it is expe- 
dient to their convenience. Muselmen respect 



£84 



FRAGMENTS 



treaties no longer than it is their apparent inte- 
rest so to do. When an ambassador once expos- 
tulated with his imperial majesty for having in- 
fringed on a treaty made, an emperor of Ma- 
rocco replied — " Dost thou think I am a Chris- 
tian, that I should be a slave to my word ?" 

Berebbers of Zimurh Sheikh. 

This kabyl of Berebbers inhabit the plains 
west and south-west of Mequinas. They are a 
fine race of men, well-grown, and good figures ; 
they have a noble presence, and their physiog- 
nomy resembles the ancient Roman. The laws 
of hospitality, however, are disregarded among 
them: they will plunder travellers who sojourn 
with them, whenever they have an oppor- 
tunity. 

The European Merchants at Mogodor escape 
from Decapitation: 

The late emperor, Muley Yezzid, proceeded 
from Mequinas to Marocco, with an army of 
thirty thousand cavalry, to take the field against 
the rebellious Abdrahaman ben Nassar, ba- 
shaw of the province of Abda, acting conjointly 
with the bashaw of the province of Duquella, 
who had collected an army of eighty thousand 
men , of which fifty thousand were horse. The 



AND ANECDOTES. 



285 



Emperor, on his arrival at Marocco, was exas- 
perated against the kabyls of the south ; and was 
informed that the merchants of Mogodor had 
supplied his rebel subject, Abdrahaman, with 
ammunition. Enraged at this report, which 
the exasperated state of his mind prompted 
him to believe, he issued an order to the Go- 
vernor of Mogodor, implicating the greater 
part of the European merchants of that port 
of high treason, and ordered their decapitation. 
This order was brought by one Fenishe, a rela- 
tion of Tahar Fenishe, who had been, some 
years before, ambassador from Marocco to the 
court of St. James's. The Governor, however, 
suspecting that the order had been issued in a 
moment of irritation, delayed its execution, in 
the hope that it might be countermanded ; or, 
in hope that the result of a battle would ren- 
der it unnecessary to be put in execution. — 
Soon afterwards, news arrived at Mogodor that 
the two armies had met, had fought, and the 
Emperor had vanquished his antagonists, who 
had more than double his force, but was him- 
self dangerously wounded. This induced the 
governor still further to delay the execution ; 
having now ascertained that the order was ob- 
tained by a stratagem of malicious and ill-dis- 
posed people. The next day news came that 
the Emperor suffered extremely from a ball in 
the upper part of the thigh, which the surgeons 
could not extract. The Emperor, in a fit of 



286 



FRAGMENTS 



frenzy, from pain or passion, took his (Jcumayd) 
dagger, cut open the wound to the ball, and ex- 
pired soon after. Thus were the merchants of 
Mogodor saved providentially from an untimely 
death. 

The Emperor Muley Yezzid's Body disinterred. 

When -the united armies of Abda and Du- 
quella were vanquished and dispersed by the Im- 
perial troops, in the neighbourhood of Marocco, 
the report became general that the Emperor was 
wounded. It is asserted that several men in 
ambush had orders to wait their opportunity to 
fire at the Emperor, when he should approach ; 
and when the Emperor did approach the bush 
wherein these men lay concealed, they all fired. 
It appears, however, that only one shot had ef- 
fect. The Emperor finding himself wounded, 
instead of being discouraged, was reanimated 
to the combat, and entered into the midst of it ; 
a soldier by his side observed to him, that he 
was wounded, and whilst expressing his hope 
that it was not dangerous, the Emperor, with 
one stroke of his sabre, cut off his head ! Even 
after the death of this redoubted warrior, the 
people trembled, doubting the truth of his de- 
cease. Abdrahaman went personally to Marocco 
and had the body disinterred to ascertain the fact, 
suspecting that the report of his death might be 
a stratagem ; but having ascertained it, he re- 



AND ANECDOTES. 



287 



turned to Safry, and his brother Muley Esslemmah 
was immediately proclaimed by Abdrahaman. 
Doubts of the Emperor's death still pervaded 
the minds of men : it was reported that he had 
been seen in the Atlas Mountains, in Draha, in 
Suse. At length a person somewhat resembling 
him in person, appeared between Wedinoon 
and Ait Bamaran (see the map): the panic 
took ; and men from all parts of the country, 
who had known the Emperor, hastened to Wedi- 
noon to ascertain the fact. Many who were too 
curious were shot by order of this pretender, to 
prevent the possibility of their returning to give 
notice of the imposture. The immense num- 
ber of persons who now believed him to be Yez- 
zid was incalculable ; his party increased and 
multiplied, and he soon had thousands of fol- 
lowers who supported his cause. The infatu- 
ation of the vulgar and the bulk of the commu- 
nity was astounding ; for the renowned Muley 
Yezzid, like his Majesty George IV., was the 
first horseman in his empire, and the most ac- 
complished gentleman : whereas Buhellesa % for 
so he was called in derision, was so bad a horse- 
man that he generally rode a mule. 

e So called from his generally riding a mule, with a large 
stuffed saddle, rising high before and behind, covering the 
whole of the mule's back, and forming a very secure seat. 
This enormous and ponderous saddle-mattras is called Hel- 
lesa ; and as the Pretender rode on it, he was called Bu Hel- 
lesa ; that is the father of a Hellesa. 



2S8 



FRAGMENTS 



This man was reported to be an adept in the 
occult sciences ; and it was both reported and 
credited, that the occult art enabled him to 
multiply corn and provision for the army to any 
quantity he might want. I was established at 
Santa Cruz, which was three days' horse-tra- 
velling from Buhellesa' s standard ; the (Shereef,) 
Prince Abdsalam, brother to Yezzid, was then 
resident there, and Viceroy of Suse. It was 
the Prince Abdsalam's desire to destroy this pre- 
tender ; for his army and followers exceeded 
now thirty thousand men, the Prince sent to 
Muhamed ben Delemy, khalif of Suse, and 
sheik of the Duleim Arabs, whose castle was 
about thirty miles south of Santa Cruz. Delemy 
and the Prince were sworn friends : the latter 
proposed to him to give battle to Buhellesa, 
and so prevent the empire from being usurped. 
Neither Delemy nor the Prince had fands to raise 
an army ; so that neither of them knew what 
steps to take. Delemy, however, with the true 
spirit of a Bedouin Arab, supported his friend 
in his adversity, and promised to exert himself 
to counteract the operations of the arch-hypo- 
crite Buhellesa. Collecting the sheiks of the 
various kabyls of Suse, he made an energetic 
harangue to them ; and discussed with them 
the expediency of their uniting together, to repel 
the impostor. The sheiks were all loyal, and well 
affected to Muley Abd Salam ; whose govern- 
ment of Suse, by his khaliff Delemy, added to 



AND ANECDOTES. 



289 



the hospitalities with which the Prince enter- 
tained the people of Suse at his domain, the 
Wah el Grabie, or the Oasis of Ammon, called 
Santariah, ingratiated Muley Abd Salam so much 
in their favour and esteem, that they all unani- 
mously (passed Vdad f ) joined hands, and deter- 
mined, each individually, to raise his respective 
kabyl to support the cause of Muley Abd Sa- 
lam. In a short time they raised an army 
among themselves of ten thousand horse, and 
determined to attack Buhellesa, so soon as he 
should begin to move forwards, and before he 
should reach Terodant, in his way to Marocco ; 
for there he had a strong party, which would 
augment his forces. The hero Delemy, who was 
as valiant a soldier as Muley Yezzid himself, and 
as expert and dextrous in the management of the 
horse, determined therefore, with less than half 
the force of his antagonist, to attack him, before 
he should be able to gather more strength. The 
army of the sheiks joined, and proceeded towards 
Wedinoon. At night they learned that Buhellesa, 
with an army of 22,000 men, mostly horse, having 

f The Vaad of the Arabs is a joining of hands, without 
shaking : the palms of the right hands of the parties coming 
in contact with each other, and the thumbs over each other. 
This is a solemn obligation among them ; a calling God to 
witness their resolution of mutual assistance, offensive and de- 
fensive ; a swearing to stand by each other till death ; an 
obligation that nothing can dissolve ; such a pledge, that if a 
man were to break it, he would be execrated and rejected 
from society ! ! 



'290 



FRAGMENTS 



been apprised of Delemy's preparations and 
movements, had proceeded through Ait Bama- 
ran towards Shtuka, and that he intended to 
attack Delemy's castle. On hearing this, the 
army halted for an hour, and returned towards 
Shtuka again. In the morning they came up 
with Buhellesa, who was encamped about four 
hours south of Delemy's castle. The march of 
Delemy's troops, all hardy warriors and men of 
valour, was so rapid, that Buhellesa was taken 
by surprise. The battle lasted seven hours ; 
during which Delemy's brother was wounded 
and unhorsed, in the midst of the enemy's 
troops : but being unknown, and in a similar 
dress with the rest, he recovered himself by 
the assistance of some friends, sent to him by 
his brother the khalif, and was enabled to rejoin 
his own troops. Buhellesa was so hard pressed, 
that he made his retreat into a house : on being 
attacked there, his pistol missed fire, and he 
was overcome. They immediately cut off his 
head and his arms, when his army dis- 
persed, most of them making the best of their 
way to Wedinoon. That same night, the man 
of Shtuka, who first attacked Buhellesa, was 
dispatched with his head and feet to Muley 
Abd Salam, at Santa Cruz, 

The reported approach of Buhellesa, with so 
strong a force, had urged me to ship all the 
property I could collect ; and I was on the beach 
early the following morning, directing the 



AND ANECDOTES. 



29 i 



shipment of my property; when taking a 
ride along the beach, I met an Arab, with 
a basket before him, and a foot sticking out 
of it. " Salam u alik," I exclaimed, " And 
what have you got there ?" — " Alik Salam" 
said the Arab, " I have got Bahellesa's head 
and feet here : I killed him myself; and the 
khalif Delemy has sent me with them to the 
Prince. " Dost thou think the Prince will re- 
ward me ?" — " Certainly," said I, "for such 
an essential service." The Prince gave the 
Arab one hundred duckets 8 : the guns were 
fired ; and the head and feet were hung over 
an embrasure of the round battery, facing the 
south. Thus terminated the career of Buhel- 
lesa. 

A short time after this, I was on a visit to 
Delemy, and he accompanied me to the field 
of battle ; which was an undulating plain, not 
unlike that of Waterloo : and the house to 
which Buhellesa made his escape, was not unlike 
the hotel de la Belle Alliance on the plains 
of Waterloo, having, however, a flat roof. 

Shelluhs : their Revenge and Retaliation. 

A Shelluh, of the province of Suse, had 
been a servant in the house of Mr. Hutchison, 

* Worth 5s. each, but equal to 100/., or more, in that 
country. 



292 



FRAGMENTS 



British Consul at Mogodor fifteen years ; but it 
happened to be twenty years since a relation oi 
his, in Suse, had been killed, to whom he was 
the next of kin but one : but the next of kin 
dying, it devolved upon him to seek retaliation ; 
no opportunity, however, having occurred, he 
determined to go to Suse to fulfil this his call- 
ing. Now above twenty years had elapsed since 
the death or murder of the relation of Bel Kos- 
sem, the Consul's servant. This man, foregoing 
the eligibility of his place, apprised the Consul 
of his intention to leave him. Mr. Hutchison, 
who esteemed him not a little for his long and 
faithful services, was astonished to hear of his 
determination to depart ; and, apprehending 
that he might want an increase of pay, he offered 
to increase it : but Bel Kossem told him that an 
imperious duty devolved on him to revenge the 
blood of his ancestor. Accordingly he received 
his wages, and departed forthwith for Suse. A 
few months afterwards he found an opportunity 
of killing his enemy, which being done, it was 
expected that this Shelluh would now return to 
Mogodor, and resume his place again ; but by a 
parity of reasoning, it devolved to the next of 
kin of the man recently killed to seek re- 
venge for his murdered relation, but Bel Kossem, 
to avoid the like fate, went into a distant coun- 
try. This duty of revenging death, is rigidly 
pursued among the Shelluhs, so that one murder 
often produces ten, or even twenty deaths ; each 
revenging his relation or next of kin. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



293 



Travelling in Barbary. 

It is extremely difficult, whilst travelling in 
this country, to ascertain from the natives the 
distance of any (douaf) encampment of Arabs : 
the general answer to such a question is (wahud 
sad), "an hour," but this is a very indefinite term, 
being used for a distance from two to twelve 
miles, or more ; therefore, as these people have 
no definite notions of time or distance, the only 
way of ascertaining distances, is by knowing the 
rate at which the caravan goes, which is a regu- 
lar pace, and consulting your watch; by this 
means, the distance of any journey, however 
long, may be accurately ascertained. 

Anecdote displaying the African Character, and 
showing them to be now what they were an- 
ciently, under Jugurtha. 

A Muhamedan was sent to prison, for having 
killed a man ; and after remaining there some time, 
it was expected that the Emperor's order would 
come to have him shot, or to have his right hand 
cut off, with which it was presumed he killed his 
enemy. A friend of the prisoner, willing to li- 
berate him, that he might escape the punishment 
that awaited him, engaged a person well ac- 
quainted with the prison to procure his enlarge- 
ment 5 accordingly he promised him a sum of 



FRAGMENTS 



money, if lie would effect this purpose, it was 
agreed that the money should be paid. The li- 
berator was then to prove to the man advancing 
the money, that he had accomplished his pur- 
pose. The night in which his liberation was to 
be attempted was fixed on ; ropes were ready to 
enable the prisoner to escape over the prison- 
wall. In the mean time the next of kin of the 
man who had been murdered, sought the blood 
of the prisoner, and was persuaded by the man 
that had engaged to liberate the prisoner, 
that the latter was not in prison, that he had 
made his escape, but that the former would 
undertake to put him in his power, so as to 
enable him to accomplish his revenge. This 
was agreed to, and accordingly a sum of money 
was paid as a remuneration for the service. 
All matters were arranged, and the person 
who paid the money was desired to be on the 
rock, near the prison, outside of the town 
wall, at two o'clock in the morning, and 
there he would find his enemy. The per- 
son who made the first engagement was di- 
rected to be at the same spot at three o'clock. 
In the mean time the liberation was effected at 
two o'clock, and the prisoner was informed that 
his friend would meet him under the rock at 
three o'clock, to conduct him to a place secure 
from discovery. Soon after two o'clock, the 
next of kin to the person whom the prisoner had 
killed came and plunged a dagger into his heart : 



AND ANECDOTES. 



295 



afterwards came the other man, and saw the body 
of his friend, whom he recognized. On expos- 
tulating with the liberator, the latter replied, 
«* I have executed my engagement to liberate 
your friend ; I am entitled to my reward : what 
has happened to him since his liberation is no 
concern of mine ; see you to that. But I should 
inform you, that soon after his liberation, I saw 
a man approach, and fearing that I was disco- 
vered, I ran and hid myself under a rock. In a 
short time I returned and found your friend wel- 
tering in his blood. When I approached him, he 
had just time before he expired to name to me his 
murderer, who, he said, was the next of kin to the 
man he had himself killed/* — Note, The Shelluhs 
consider it a duty incumbent on them, each, indi- 
vidually to revenge the blood of their family; that 
they are bound to seek the murderer, if possibly 
he fcan be found. Such is their invariable atten- 
tion to this principle of revenging blood for 
blood, that I have known instances of men who 
have relinquished eligible appointments, to go 
into distant countries, several years after a 
murder has been committed, to revenge the 
death of a relation, after becoming, by inter- 
vening death, the next of kin of the murdered 
person. 

The lamentable effects of this fatal retaliation 
is such, that one death often produces twenty 
murders, ana afterwards involves whole kabyls 
in intestine wars. 



FRAGMENTS 



It is remarkable, that the more duplicity they 
use in these horrid transactions, the more merit 
is ascribed to the agent ; who is praised in pro- 
portion to the extent of his ingenuity, or dupli- 
city, as was the case with the liberator above 
mentioned. 

Every Nation is required to use its own Costume. 

The Jews in West and South Barbary, have a 
predilection for the European costume, in pre- 
ference to their own, the former being respected, 
the latter not : moreover the character of a mer- 
chant is highly respected by the Moors, and the 
European dress is a kind of passport to a man as 
such. One day, the Emperor seeing in the place 
of audience, at a great distance, a gentleman, 
apparently an European ambassador, ordered 
the master of the audience to go and see who he 
was, and what nation he represented; but it 
being discovered that he was a Marocco Jew> 
his scarlet and gold dress was torn from him, 
and a burnose, (a large black cloak, the costume 
of the Jews of the lower order,) was put over him, 
when he was bufFettedand kicked out of the place 
of audience. The Emperor was exasperated at 
this circumstance, which he considered a vain de- 
ception : he ordered his secretary to write to all 
the ports in his dominions, to desire that Jews 
should wear the burnose 9 that Christians only 
should wear the European costume, and Moors 



AND ANECDOTES. 



297 



and Arabs theirs ; so that thus every individual 
might be known by their respective dress. On 
this occasion, an opulent Hebrew merchant at 
Mogodor felt so much the insults he was ex- 
posed to, from wearing the Jewish costume, that 
he actually paid several thousand dollars to ob- 
tain the privilege he had formerly enjoyed, 
which, in consequence of his being an opulent 
man, and a foreign merchant, was granted to 
him. 

The name of this gentleman would here be 
mentioned to gratify the curious j but as it might 
give umbrage to his family, and as the intention 
here is only to describe the character and man- 
ners of the country, there is, I conceive no ne- 
cessity for stating personalities. 

Alt Bey {El Abassi), Author of the Travels 
under that Name. 

This extraordinary character visited Marocco 
about the year 1805 or 1806. He pretended to 
be a native of Aleppo, called in Arabic Hellebee, 
and was known by the name of Seed Hellebee, 
which signifies " the gentleman of Aleppo." 
Europeans, as well as himself, since his return to 
Europe, have converted this name into Ali Bey, 
of the family of the Abassides. This gentleman 
possessed abilities of no ordinary degree, he was 
supplied with money in abundance by the Spa- 
nish government. He had not been long at 



2<JS 



FRAGMENTS 



Mogodor, when his munificence began to excite 
the suspicion of the governor, as well as the ad- 
miration and applause of the populace. Adopt- 
ing the costume of the country, he professed 
himself to be a Muselman ; and as a pretext for 
not speaking the s Arabic language, he pretended 
that he had gone from Aleppo, the place of his 
nativity, to England when very young, and had 
forgotten it. He had, as he declared, consider- 
able property in the Bank of England. Being 
desirous of collecting all the information possible 
respecting the country, he procured two young 
Spanish renegado musicians, who played on the 
guitar, and sung Arabic airs and songs, with 
which he affected to be highly delighted, these 
musicians, however, served his purpose in ano- 
ther way ; for, being apprehensive of creating 
suspicion by direct enquiries, he prevailed on 
these renegadoes to procure the information he 
desired, by giving them from time to time se- 
veral questions to which they procured direct 
answers, as reported by the natives. 

One day he gave a fetechampetre at {Uarsa 
Sultan), the h Sultan's garden, situated near a 

s He afterwards learned the Arabic language, and I be- 
lieve spoke it tolerably well when he quitted this country and 
proceeded to Mekka. 

h This garden is in the province of Haha, about five miles 
S.S.E. of Mogodor, and belongs to the European Commerce, 
to whom it was presented by the late Emperor Seedi Muha- 
med ben Abdallah. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



very picturesque rivulet, and contiguous to 
springs of excellent water, which being collected 
in * large tank> was conveyed by an aqueduct, 
which extended the length of the garden, to im- 
merge or irrigate the various beds of flowers and 
plants. On his return home, as he was crossing 
the river near the village of Diabet, a Shelluh 
shot a large fish as it was passing the shallows, 
Seed Hellebee, or Seed Ali Bey admired the 
dexterity of the Shelluh, (who, from his quick- 
ness, was nicknamed Deib, i. e. the fox,) and 
desired him to take the fish to his house at Mo- 
godor; which he accordingly did, and received 
from Ali Bey's secretary a handful of dollars. 
This Shelluh was a keen sportsman, and seldom 
or never missed his shot : he generally accompa- 
nied me in my shooting excursions, and he told 
me this circumstance himself, adding, that Ali 
Bey was such a liberal man, that, where any 
other gentleman gave a dollar, he gave a hand- 
fuL It was in this manner that Ali Bey pur- 
chased his popularity. 

The governor of Mogodor, Alkaid Muhamed 
ben Abdsaddock now began to suspect, not only 
the faith of this soi disant Muhamedan, but that 
he had some design unavowed ; and desirous of 
ascertaining to what nation of Christendom he 
belonged, the governor engaged Monsieur De- 
pras, a respectable French merchant of Mogodor, 
who understood several languages, to ascertain 
if he was a Frenchman, and if not, who and what 



300 



FRAGMENTS 



he was. The governor, in order to enable M, 
Depras to converse with Ali Bey, invited them 
both to tea ; this introduction being effected the 
next day, Depras called on Ali Bey, and con- 
versed with him during an hour in the French lan- 
guage, which he spoke so well, that the former 
thought there was no doubt of his being a French- 
man. But soon after this, the Spanish Consul was 
announced, and being introduced, Seed Ali Bey 
changed his discourse to Spanish, which he also 
spoke so correctly, that Depras now altered his 
opinion, and conceiving him to be a Spaniard, took 
his leave. He then reported to the governor what 
he had seen and heard, that he spoke French 
and Spanish so fluently, that he really did not 
know whether he was a Frenchman or a Spa- 
niard. 

Ali Bey continued to live in a most sumptuous 
and costly style, and afterwards resolved to visit 
Marocco. On his journey thither, he was par- 
ticularly inquisitive respecting the population, 
produce, names and residencies* of the (sheiks) 
chiefs of Haha and Shedma, through which pro- 
vinces he passed. On his arrival at Marocco, he 
still continued his magnificent establishment and 
sumptuous mode of living ; distributing money 
to the people bountifully, on the most trifling 
occasions, which mode of conduct procured him 
universal popularity among the lower orders. 
This soon excited the suspicions of Alkaid Bush- 
ta, the governor of Marocco, who ingenuously 



AND ANECDOTES. 



301 



informed him, that such liberality was fit only 
for a Christian country, and that he was mis- 
taken if he flattered himself that it would be 
tolerated at Marocco, and actually desired him 
to adopt a different and a more parsimonious 
system, if he wished to be quiet $ alleging, that 
his munificence exceeded that of his Imperial 
Majesty, which was highly indecorous ; but after- 
wards finding little attention was paid to his 
injunction, he published a decree throughout the 
city, that any one that should be found asking 
for, or receiving money from Ali Bey, should 
have a very severe bastinado ! After residing 
some time at Marocco, he expressed a desire to 
visit the Atlas mountains, which appear a few 
miles east of Marocco, but which are, in fact, a 
whole day's journey ; their immense size and 
height making them to appear so much nearer 
than they really are. Ali Bey apprehending the 
hostility of Alkaid Bushta, he procured an im- 
perial order to visit the Atlas, but Bushta op- 
posed it, and would not, he said, permit him, 
he being governor of Marocco, without having 
himself directly from the Emperor a permission 
to that purpose. He then represented to the Em- 
peror the impolicy of allowing him to go and 
examine that country ; and the imperial order 
was immediately countermanded. 

People now began to imagine that he was an 
agent of Bonaparte ; and their suspicion that he 
was a Christian spread far and near. It was dis- 



302 



FRAGMENTS 



covered also that he had corns on his feet, ex- 
crescences unknown to Muselmen, whose shoes 
are made tight over the instep, and loose over 
the toes, so that the latter being unconfined and 
at liberty, they never have corns. 

Notwithstanding all these suspicions, the cour- 
tesy and suavity of the manners of Ah' Bey had 
such influence on the imperial mind, that Muley 
Soliman gave him a beautiful garden to reside 
in, wherein there was a {hoba) pavilion. Ali 
Bey, finding his influence considerable, erected 
with architectural taste several edifices, suited, 
as he thought, to the imperial gusto, in which 
he succeeded so well that his Imperial Majesty, 
when he returned the next year to Marocco, re- 
sided almost exclusively in one of the pavilions 
which he had erected. 

The splendour of the imperial favour did not 
however continue long ; for Ali Bey began now 
to be suspected by the Emperor himself, and it 
was bruited that his renegadoes had acted 
treacherously towards him. 

Ali Bey's knowledge of astronomy was pecu- 
liarly gratifying to the Emperor. He could not 
altogether withdraw from him his attention. The 
Emperor urged him to take unto himself a wife, 
and become an useful member of society ; but Ali 
objected, alleging various motives for refusing. 
He was however at length prevailed on to com- 
ply with the imperial injunction, and the Em- 
peror gave him a young girl to marry. It was 



AND ANECDOTES. 



308 



anticipated that his new wife was a political one, 
and would betray him to be an uncircumcised 
dog. The wife, however, became extremely at- 
tached to him, and no information could be pro- 
cured from her to favour the plot that had been 
laid for him. Various suspicions having in- 
creased respecting him, the Emperor finally re- 
solved that he should quit his territory ; and an 
order was issued that himself, his wife, and slaves 
should be escorted to the port of L'Araich, and 
there embark for Europe. When the military 
guard, however, had reached the port of L' Araich, 
the boat being ready, Ali Bey was desired to 
embark, when, not suspecting any stratagem, 
the boatmen pushed off, leaving his disconsolate 
wife on the beach, bewailing his abrupt depar- 
ture. The lady appeared deeply affected with 
this sudden and unexpected separation ; and 
jumping out of the litter tore her dishevelled 
hair, and distributed it to the winds, and with 
loud shrieks, which pierced the air, demonstrated 
to him how sorely she lamented his premature 
departure, and violent separation. His principal 
slave was sold, by order of the Emperor's minis- 
ter, to Seed Abdel'mjeed Buhellel, a merchant 
of Eas, who was lately in London, and the money 
wa^ given to his wife. 

During his residence at Fas, he predicted an 
eclipse, and, having foretold to the people of that 
city, that it would happen at such a time, they 
waited for the event with considerable curiosity. 



304 



FRAGMENTS 



Now his knowledge of futurity had spread abroad 
with demonstrations of amazement ; the eclipse 
happened precisely at the time he had predicted, 
which established his fame as an (alem minalem), 
a man wiser than the wise. 

During the latter part of his residence in West 
Barbary, a report prevailed that Bonaparte was 
preparing an immense army to invade and sub- 
jugate the country. Ali Bey was not only sus- 
pected to be his secret agent, but some persons 
were even ridiculous enough to declare that he 
was Bonaparte himself in disguise ; and accord- 
ingly he was denominated Parte, for they would 
not add Bona, as that word signifies good, in the 
Mngica franca of Barbary, and Bonaparte, they 
said was not good, but a devil incarnate ; so 
they called him Parte. Last year I met in 
London the Moor who had purchased Ali Bey's 
slave, and he told me that his son by the before- 
mentioned wife lives at Fas ; that he is a very 
amiable and intelligent youth, about fifteen or 
sixteen years of age ; and that he is very poor, 
and would have starved, but for the charity and 
protection of the highly respected fakeer of the 
city of Fas, Muley Dris, under whose roof he 
resides, and is indebted to him for protection 
and patronage. This man would be an acqui- 
sition to the African Association, and means 
might be adopted to engage him in their service 
to explore Sudan. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



305 



The Emperor 9 s Attack of Diminet, in the Atlas. 

The emperor Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah 
levied a powerful army, and took the field against 
Diminet, in the mountains of Atlas, east of Ma- 
rocco. The people of Diminet, and the terri- 
tory of Berebbers, east of that country, had also 
levied a strong force to defend themselves. 
The Diminets were taken by surprise ; for 
they had not had intimation of an attack from 
Marocco. The Emperor himself, with a few at- 
tendants disguised in the Berebber dress, ad- 
vanced a few miles a-head of the army, A party 
of mountaineers had received orders from their 
sheik, (when the latter was informed that the 
Emperor's army was coming against them,) to 
seek the Emperor, and endeavour to kill him. 
They mistook the Emperor and his party for Be- 
rebbers, as His Majesty spoke the language cor- 
rectly, and had in the early part of his life lived 
among them. " Where is the Emperor's guard ?" 
the mountaineers enquired; ' ( for we are in search 
of them : we hear he is coming to attack us, in 
our inaccessible mountains ; but we will be before- 
hand with him, and dispatch him before he reaches 
us. Dost thou know where he is, or where his 
guard is." "We do know," replied the Emperor; 
" for, about an hour behind us, we passed a few 
men on horseback, among whom was the Empe- 
ror ; but the army is a long way behind : if you 
make speed, you will soon pass him, and it will 
be an easy matter for you to put the whole party 



306 



FRAGMENTS 



to the sword, for they are not a dozen altogether. 
The Berebbers, elated with this news, commu- 
nicated from a party whom they mistook for bre- 
thren of the neighbouring kabyl, rode off at 
speed to seek their enemy, and in a short time 
found themselves surrounded by the Emperor's 
army, who were scattered about in ambush. 
These Berebbers were all secured, and were 
threatened with torture if they would not 
discover where the army of their brethren 
was, and what was their plan. The party 
discovered the plan and the place of their en- 
campment, which was not far off in recesses 
of the mountain, and received a promise of re- 
muneration if found correct. By this discovery, 
the imperial army was enabled to surprise the 
rebels ; the latter were dispersed, and their houses 
burned. Thus were they prevented from ha- 
rassing the Emperor's army, which is their ordi- 
nary mode of warfare. To subjugate these peo- 
ple would be impossible : it has often been at- 
tempted, but never succeeded. The only lien 
the Emperor can get of them is, by having at 
court about his person their sheik, whom he then 
makes answerable for the obedience of the 
kabyl. 



Moral Justice. 

The imperial army being encamped in 
Temsena, on the confines of Tedla, (see the 
map,) an Arab chieftain found that a friend 



AND ANECDOTES. 



307 



of the Emperor came into his key ma 1 at night, 
and took liberties with his wife. The Arab 
suspected that he was (shereef) a prince, and 
therefore did not dare to kill him, but pre- 
ferred a complaint to the Emperor. The Empe- 
ror was vexed to hear of such a gross breach of 
hospitality, and asked what time he made his 
visits? " At one hour after midnight," the Arab 
replied. Then, said the Emperor, " when he comes, 
do you let me know by giving the watch-word 
to this man, and he will then know what to do ; 
and depend thou on my seeing justice done to 
thee for the aggression." The marauder came ; 
the Arab repaired to the guard of the imperial 
tent, and gave the word ; the guard apprised the 
emperor, as he was directed, who personally re- 
paired to the tent of the Arab, and, being con- 
vinced of the fact, ran the man through with 
his lance : this was done without a light. The 
body was brought before the tent, and it was 
discovered to be an officer of the imperial guard. 
The Emperor, on seeing that it was not a shereef 
(a prince) prostrated himself in fervent prayer 
for a considerable time. The courtiers who were 
all assembled by this time to witness this extra- 
ordinary occurrence, wondered what could in- 
duce the Emperor to be so fervent in prayer ; 
which his majesty observing, told them, " that 
he went alone to the tent, thinking that nobody 

' Keyma is the name for an Arab's tent ; they are made 
of goats* hair, and are black. 



308 



FRAGMENTS 



but a shereef would have dared to commit such 
a breach of hospitality, in so open a manner ; 
therefore he killed him without having a light, 
lest, on discovering him to be a prince, personal 
affection might give way to justice ; but that 
when he discovered that it was not a relation, he 
returned thanks to God Almighty, that, in his 
determination to have justice administered, he 
had not killed his own son !" 

Contest between the Emperor and the Berebbers of 
Atlas. 

March 10, 1797* The Sultan Soliman proceeds 
with a powerful army against the warlike pro- 
vince of Shawiya, the rebellious Arabs' retreat. 
The imperial army takes some of the women 
who are renowned for personal charms. The 
army can get no food ; and, being in danger of 
starving, returns to Salee. The Arabs promise 
submission, in hopes of having the women re- 
stored; but the Emperor's officers violate them. 
The Arabs swear vengeance (alia I'imin k ) by 
their right hand. The emperor attacks them 
again, is repulsed, and returns to Fas. 

Characteristic Trait of Muhamedans. 

One of the Emperor's ministers, when an 
English fleet was cruising off Salee, and just 

k Alia 1'imin, swearing by the right hand, is a sacred 
oath ; and those who take it will not swerve from its obliga- 
tion, which is peremptory. 



AND ANECDOTES, 



S09 



after some impost had been levied on the mer- 
chandise already purchased and warehoused by 
the Christian merchants, suggested the impolicy 
at that moment, of harsh measures against Eu- 
ropeans : the Emperor, in a jocose manner, asked 
what harm he could suffer from the fleets of 
Europeans ? " They could destroy your Im- 
perial Majesty's ports," replied the minister. 
"•Then I would build them again for one-half 
what it would cost them to destroy them. But 
if they dared to do that, I could retaliate, by 
sending out my cruisers to take their trading 
ships, which would so increase the premiums of 
insurance (for the (kqffers) infidels insure all 
things on earth, trusting nothing to God 1 ), that 
they would be glad to sue for peace again. 

Political Deception, 

When an embassy is going to the Emperor, 
the alkaid of the escort endeavours to make the 
present, which necessarily accompanies every 
embassy, as bulky and conspicuous as possible, 
that the Arabs of the kabyls through which they 
pass, may be dazzled and astounded with the 
great appearance of the presents, which the 
alkaid proclaims to consist chiefly of money, or 
treasure. The Arabs accordingly observed, on 
Mr. Matra's (the British consul) presents, that 

1 The Muhamedans abuse the Christians for their mis- 
trust of Providence, exemplified in their insuring ships, 
merchandise, &c. 



310 



FRAGMENTS 



the English, who had conquered Bonaparte in 
Egypt, and were masters of the ocean and seas, 
yet were tributary to the Sultan. This idea is 
industriously propagated by the officers of the 
Emperor's court. " Thinkest thou," they ob- 
served, " that these Christians give such large 
presents with a free-will ? Certainly not ! They 
are compelled to do so. The (Romee) Europeans 
are too fond of money to give it away in such 
loads, — even the English, thou seest, are tri- 
butary to the Seed." m 

Etiquette of the Court of Morocco. 

The European commerce of Mogodor went 
to pay their respects to the Emperor Seedi Mu- 
hamed, on his arrival, from Fas, at Marocco, as 
is customary. The Emperor's son, Muley El 
Mamune, was master of the audience, and or- 
dered the commerce to advance into the imperial 
presence ; and standing barefooted, as is the 
custom before the Emperor, he requested the 
merchants to take off their shoes, as he had 
done ; but they expostulated, and said it was 
not their custom. The Prince, however, stopped 
them, and would not allow them to approach 
the imperial presence without first submitting 
to this ceremony. Seedi Muhamed, observing 
the impediment, and knowing the cause, but 

m A higher title among the true Arabs than Emperor : it 
implies conjointly, Emperor, Father of the People, Pro- 
tector, and Brother. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



311 



willing at the same time to initiate the young 
prince in the custom of foreign countries, called 
his son to him, and said, " What do muselmen 
do, when they enter the Jamaa ?" n " Revere 
the holy ground, by entering barefooted," re- 
plied the prince. — " And what do the Christians, 
when they enter their church ?" — k< They take 
off their hats," rejoined the Prince. (Allah e 
berk Amer Seedi, °) " God bless your Majesty's 
life." — " Then, what would you more of these 
my merchants, than that they pay me, even the 
same respect that they pay when they pray to 
Allah. Let them approach uncovered, with 
their shoes on, which they never take off, but 
to go to bed to rest. 

The province of Ait Atter, or the Atterites, 
in Lower Suse, is considered as an independent 
province, and it pays no tribute. They have a 
great dislike to kadis p , talbs, and attornies, al- 
leging that they only increase disputes between 
man and man, which is not at all necessary ; all 
disputes are, therefore, decided by the sheik, 
who is not a logical wrangler, but decides ac- 

n An Arabic or Korannick word, signifying, the congre- 
gation of prayer, or mosque. 

° A term invariably used at court, in addressing the 
Emperor. 

p Kadis, i. e. judges. Talbs, i. e. record writers. Kadi is 
generally spelt by the Europeans of the south Cadi, because 
they have no K in their alphabet : the Arabs have no C ; the 
letter is Kaf or K, not C. 



FRAGMENTS 



cording to the simplest manner. The following 
decree of their sheik is on record : — 

" Four men conjointly bought a mule, which 
for elucidation, we will call A, B, C, and D : 
each claimed a leg. D's leg was the off-hind 
one. In a few days this leg began to swell : it 
was agreed to cure it by (el keeh) burning it 
with a hot iron, (a common remedy in this 
country.) This done, the mule was turned out, 
and went into a field of barley. Some spark was 
attached to the hoof, and set fire to the corn, 
which was consumed. The proprietors of the 
barley applied to the sheik for justice ; and A, 
B, C, and D, the owners of the mule, were 
summoned to appear. The sheik, finding the 
leg which caused the barley to be burnt, belonged 
to D, ordered him to pay the value of the 
barley. D expostulated, and maintained that he 
had no right to pay ; for, if it had not been for 

A, B, and C's portions of the mule, the barley 
would have remained. " How so ?" replied the 
sheik. " Because/' quoth D, " the leg which 
belongs to me cannot touch the ground ; but it 
was brought to the corn-field by the legs of A, 

B, and C, which were the efficient cause of the 
ignition of the barley." The sheik reversed his 
decree, and ordered A, B, and C to pay the 
damage, and D got off without expense. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



315 



Customs of the Shelluhs of the Southern Atlas, viz* 
of Idaultit (in Lower Suse.) 

The mountains of Idaultit are inhabited by a 
courageous and powerful people, strict to their 
honour and word, unlike their neighbours of 
Elala. They make verbal contracts between 
themselves, and never go to law, or record their 
contracts or agreements, trusting implicitly to 
each other's faith and honour. If a man goes to 
this country to claim a debt due, he cannot re- 
ceive it while there, but must first leave the coun- 
try, and trust to the integrity of the Idaultitee, 
who will surely pay when convenient, but cannot 
bear compulsion or restraint. They do not ac- 
knowledge any sultan, but have a divan of their 
own, called El?ma,-who settle all disputes between 
man and man. These people cultivate the plains, 
when there is no khalif in Suse ; but when there 
is, they retire to the fastnesses in their moun- 
tains, and defy the arm of power ; satisfying 
themselves with the produce of the mountains* 

Connubial Customs. 

The (shereef) Prince Muley Bryhim, son of 
the present Emperor Soliman, was married to the 
daughter of the bashaw Abdrahaman ben Nassar, 
who was powerful and rebellious, and prevented 
the Emperor for some time from proceeding to 
the south. This couple was married in 1803. 
The bashaw died the same year ; and in 1805 



314 



FRAGMENTS 



she was divorced, and sent by the Emperor to 
Mogodor, with orders to a sheik of Shedma to 
marry her, it being considered a degradation 
for a prince to be united to the daughter of a 
rebellious subject. This happened in January, 
1806. The widow of the late Prince Muley 
Abdrahaman, who rebelled against his father, 
and who was elder brother to the Emperor Soli- 
man, has been recently sent by the Emperor to 
Bu Azar, a negro bashaw, and governor of the 
city of Terodant, in Suse, to marry her. These 
marriages are promoted by the royal decree, to 
prevent the females from contaminating the royal 
blood by illicit connection, if they remain di- 
vorced, without a new husband. 

Political Duplicity. 

A fakeer having interceded in behalf of a 
state prisoner, his friend, who was confined in 
the island of Mogodor (the state prison of the 
empire, except for princes, who are sent to 
Tafilelt), the Emperor assured him he would re- 
lease him y and urged the fakeer to proceed to 
Mogodor, and wait there his Majesty's arrival. 
The fakeer departed, and soon after his arrival 
at Mogodor, he learned that the Emperor was 
not going there ; but the alkaid of Mogodor 
showed him a letter from the Emperor, ordering 
him to retain the prisoner in safe keeping, and 
not attend to what the fakeer should say. This 
system of breaking engagements and promises, 
is too often denominated policy. " Dost thou 



AND ANECDOTES. 



315 



think I am a Christian," said an emperor to a 
prince who was expostulating with him for not 
fulfilling his engagements, — "Dost thou think I 
am a Christian, to be a slave to my word T* 

Senor P. a Spanish merchant, received a letter 
from the Emperor, directed to the (alkaid) go- 
vernor of Rabat, ordering him to »how Senor P. 
every attention, and to assist him if he should 
be desirous of establishing a house at Rabat. 
Senor P. left the court at Mequinas, well satis- 
fied with his letter ; but a few days after his 
arrival, the alkaid told him he must embark 
and quit the country in twenty-four hours, 
by the Emperor's order, which he showed to 
Senor P. who could read Arabic. He was 
obliged to embark immediately. 

Etiquette of Language at the Court of Morocco. 

If the Emperor should enquire about any per- 
son that has recently died, it is not the etiquette 
to mention the word " death," — a muselmen is 
supposed never to die ; — the answer is Ufah 
Ameruh, " his destiny is closed," or " he has 
completed his destiny." To which the following 
answer is invariably given — Allah e Erham- 
moh, " God be merciful to him." If a Jew's 
death is announced to any muselman prince, 
fakeer, or alkaid, the expression is, Maat 
hashak asseedi, " He is dead, Sir." Ashak is 
an Arabic idiom, the exact meaning of which 
cannot easily be conveyed in English ; but it 
may be assimilated to — " Pardon me for men- 



816 



FRAGMENTS 



tioning in your presence a name contemptible 
or gross (as Jew)." Thus, for further elucidation 
to the enquirer after the peculiarities of lan- 
guage, Kie 'tkillem ma el Kaba hashak asseedi, 
— " He is talking with a prostitute — your par- 
don, Sir, for the grossness of the expression." 

If a man goes to the alkaid, to make a 
complaint against any one for doing any in- 
decent act, and in relating the circumstance 
he omits the word hashak asseedi, the persons 
present will interrupt him thus, — Kul hashak 
h'adda, " Say hashak before you proceed." 
Blood, dung, dirt, pimp, procuress, prostitute, 
traitor, &c. &rc. are words that (in correct com- 
pany; are invariably followed by the qualifying 
word hashak. 

If a Christian is dead, the expression is Mat 
el kqffer, or Mat el karan, or Mat bel karan, 
" The infidel is dead," " the cuckold, or the 
son of a cuckold is dead." 

Food. 

Kuscasoe is, flour moistened with water, and 
granulated with the hand to the size of partridge- 
shot. It is then put into a steamer uncovered, 
under which fowls, or mutton, and vegetables, 
such as onions, and turnips, are put to boil : 
when the steam is seen to pass through the 
kuscasoe it is taken off and shook in a bason, 
to prevent the adhesion of the grains ; and then 
put in the steamer again, and steamed a se- 
cond time. When it is taken off, some butter, 



AND ANECDOTES. 



317 



salt, pepper, and saffron, are mixed with it, and 
it is served up in a large bowl. The top is gar- 
nished with the fowl or mutton, and the onions 
and turnips. When the saffron has made it the 
colour of straw, it has received the proper quota. 
This is, when properly cooked, a very palatable 
and nutritious dish. 

Hassua is gruel boiled, and then left over the 
fire two hours. It is made with barley not ground 
into flour, but into small particles the size of 
sparrow-shot. It is a very salubrious food for 
breakfast, insomuch that they have a proverb 
which intimates that physicians need never go 
to those countries wherein the inhabitants break 
their fast with hassua. 

El Hasseeda is barley roasted in an earthen 
pan, then powdered in a mortar, and mixed with 
cold water, and drank. This is the travelling 
food of the country — of the Arab, the Moor, 
the Berebber, the Shelluh, and the Negro ; and 
is universally used by travellers in crossing the 
Sahara : the Akkabas that proceed from Akka 
and Tatta to Timbuctoo, Houssa, and Wangara, 
are always provided with a sufficient quantity of 
this simple restorative to the hungry stomach. 

The Woled Abbusebah, a whole Clan of Arabs, 
banished from the Plains of Marocco. 

This populous, powerful, and valiant kabyl, 
during the former part of the reign of the Sultan 
Seedi Muhamed ben Abdallah, father of the 



SIS 



FRAGMENTS 



present Emperor Soliman, occupied the plains 
west of the city of Marocco (being an emigra- 
tion from the Bedouin tribe of the same name 
in the Sahara) ; but their depredatory disposition 
made travelling through their territory unsafe : 
wherefore the Emperor, after endeavouring in 
vain to make an example of them, issued a de- 
cree that they should all to a man leave his do- 
minions, and they were driven by his army out 
of their country to the south, and entered the 
Sahara. The whole kabyl was thus outlawed, 
so that they were plundered and killed as they 
passed through the plains of Fruga, Ait Musie, 
Haha, and Suse, by the natives of those coun- 
tries respectively. Not half the number that 
emigrated, (which was some thousands,) reached 
the original clan in the Sahara. 

The Koran, called also El Kateb el Aziz. 

The word Koran conveys the same significa- 
tion as Bible : it means " the reading" or " the 
book — kora, " to read el Kateb el Aziz, i. e. 
"the dear or beloved book," meaning thereby 
the Koran. 

Arabian Music. 

The Sultan Seedi Muhamed, after hearing the 
musical band of the Marquis de Vialli, ambas- 
sador from Venice, expressed his gratification at 
the music of the Italians, and laconically ob- 
served that it possessed more harmony than that 
of any other nation, excepting his own. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



319 



Sigin Messa. (Sigilmessa.) 

The country of Sigin Messa, called in the 
maps Sigilmessa, was the state prison of the 
kingdom of Suse, when it formed a part of the 
empire of Muley el Monsore, in the twelfth 
century of the Christian era. Messa, a port in 
Suse, was then a large city, and the capital of 
the kingdom of Suse. The state prisoners were 
sent to a place of safe keeping, which was east 
of Tafilelt, and was therefore called Sigin 
Messa, i. e. the prison of Messa. 

Mungo Park at Timbuctoo. 

In the month of March, 1806, a letter was 
received at Mogodor by Seedi L'Abes Buhellal 
Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo. 
This letter was in Arabic, and the following is an 
extract literally translated from it by myself : — 

" A boat arrived a few days since from the 
West at Kabra, having two or three Christians 
in it. One was (rqjel Icabeer) a tall man, who 
stood erect in the boat, which displayed {shtnjuk 
bied) a white flag. The inhabitants of Kabra 
did not, however, understand the signal to be 
emblematic of peace, and no one went to the 
boat, although it remained at anchor before 
Kabra the whole day, till night. In the morn- 
ing it was gone." 

Troglodyte. 
The Shelluhs of the Atlas, south-east of Santa 



320 



FRAGMENTS 



Cruz, in Suse, during the rainy season, from 
November till February inclusive, live in caves 
and excavations in the rocks and earth ; laying 
up provisions sufficient for that period, until the 
snow begins to melt. The Berebbers of North 
Atlas have followed the same custom from time 
immemorial. 



Police of West Barbary. 

When the present Emperor came to the 
throne, he gave indefatigable attention to the 
police. He wished, he said, to make the roads 
safe for travellers, from the Desert, or Sahara, 
to the shores of the Mediterranean. He was 
vigilant in discovering thefts, and rigorous in 
punishing them. If any one was robbed, he 
had only to report it to the Emperor, who would 
forthwith order the douar where the robbery 
was committed to restore the sum stolen, and 
to pay a fine to the treasury of the same amount. 
By adhering strictly to this system, he improved 
the revenue, and made travelling perfectly safe ; 
so that one may travel now (1805), without dan- 
ger, with property or money, from one end of 
the empire to the other. Before this system of 
policy was renewed, (for it is an old law of the 
land,) travellers with property were obliged to 
have a statta .* thus, if a caravan was going from 
Terodant or Marocco to Fas, it took a statta ; 
that is, two men, natives of the district of Ra- 
hamena, who accompanied the caravan in safety 



AND ANECDOTES. 



321 



to the confines of their territory ; they then 
received a remuneration, and delivered over the 
caravan to two men of Abda, who conducted it 
to the border of Duquella : it was then delivered 
into the hands of two Duquella Arabs ; and so 
it went through the different provinces till it 
reached Fas, under the protection, through each 
province, of a statta, each of which statta re- 
ceives a remuneration. So that, by the time of 
arrival at Fas, the merchandise was sometimes 
subject to a charge of 8 or 10 per cent, for 
statta or convoy through the various provinces; 

Before the Emperor Soliman thus established 
his authority, caravans of gums, almonds, ostrich 
feathers, gold-dust, &c. &c. from Suse, were 
sometimes twenty days going from Santa Cruz 
to Mogodor, a distance of less than one hundred 
miles, the statta being changed and paid at the 
entrance of every kabyl, of which there are 
twelve in the province of Haha alone ; the ca- 
mels being also changed at every change of 
statta, increased the charge on the merchandise 
to an immoderate amount. It would be a great 
acquisition to England, if His Majesty were to 
negociate with the Emperor of Marocco for the 
port of Santa Cruz ; for the province of Suse 
produces in abundance olive oil, almonds, and 
gums; worm-seed, annis-seed, cummin-seed, and 
orchilla ; oranges, grapes, pomegranates, figs, 
melons, &c. This port was farmed, during the 
reign of Muley Ismael, for an annual stipend. 
It is the key to Sudan, and a communication 



FRAGMENTS 



mighf be opened on an extensive scale from 
hence with Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and 
other regions of Sudan, so as to supply, in a 
few years, the whole of the interior of Africa 
with British and East-India manufactures. 

Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed, 
This prince, who was elder brother of the 
present Emperor Soliman, had accumulated con- 
siderable treasure in executing the office of 
(khalif) viceroy of the provinces of Duquella, 
Abda, and Shedma. His father, jealous of his 
son's power, when supported by a command of 
treasure, had recourse to the usual means of 
transferring it to the imperial treasury. It is 
held as law in this country, that little is suffi- 
cient for every purpose of life. When property 
becomes accumulated, it is alleged that more 
than a sufficiency is derogatory of the principles 
laid down in the Koran, and ought to revolve 
to the national treasury, there to be deposited 
as a fund in reserve against the invasion of the 
country by the Europeans, an event, which they 
are quite sure, from an ancient tradition, will 
happen at no very distant period. 

Abdrahaman, however, equally avaricious with 
his father, objected to deliver up his treasure ; 
which so irritated the Sultan, that he ordered a 
party of his negro soldiers to go to the Prince's 
house and seize every thing valuable. These 
men, in their thirst for plunder, out-ran their 
discretion, as it appears j for they proceeded to 



AND ANECDOTES. 



323 



examine the ladies in the Horem, putting then- 
base hands on their persons, under the pretence 
of discovering if they had concealed their jewels 
and gold. This outrage roused the Prince's 
indignation, and he lost no time in absenting 
himself for ever from his father's dominions, 
for this insult on his dignity. — " If ray 
lather," said the Prince, " had taken my trea- 
sure, it would have passed from my hands to 
his ; but to permit the ignoble hands of slaves 
ta offer me such an indignity, is more than I 
can or will suffer." Abdrahaman therefore emi- 
grated to the province of Lower Suse, on the 
confines of Sahara, where he remained encamped, 
ready, upon any alarm, at a moment's notice, 
to penetrate into the Desert, He had always 
two Jieiries ready saddled at the gate of his 
(keyma) tent ; one for carrying his treasure, viz. 
gold dust and jewels, and the other for himself* 
to ride> on any emergency. Many fakeers were 
sent from the Sultan to the Prince, with the 
most solemn assurances of his reconciliation, 
and with urgent solicitations to him to return ; 
but the Prince never forgave or forgot the 
insult. 



Anecdote ofMuhy Tsmael. 

Mutey Ismael compared his subjects %o a bag 
full of rats. — " If you let them rest," said the 
warrior, " they will gnaw a hole in it : keep 
them moving, and no evil will happen." So his 



324 



FRAGMENTS 



subjects, if kept continually occupied, the go- 
vernment went on well ; but if left quiet, sedi- 
tions would quickly arise. This sultan was al- 
ways in the tented-field : he would say, that he 
should not return to his palace until the tents 
were rotten. He kept his army incessantly oc- 
cupied in making plantations of olives, or in 
building : rest and rebellion were with him sy- 
nonymous terms. 

Before the Portuguese transplanted their 
African colonies to South America, they had 
penetrated far into West Barbary ; they fre- 
quently made incursions into the country from 
Mazagan to Marocco, and eastward of that city. 
They had a church near Diminet, on the decli- 
vity of the Atlas, about thirty-five miles east of 
Marocco, which is still existing : it is a kind of 
sanctuary ; the Berebbers say it is haunted ; 
they will not approach it. There is said to be 
an inscription on the building in Roman cha- 
racters, over the entrance ; but I never could as- 
certain what it is* 

Library at Fas. 

When the present Emperor came to the throne 
there was a very extensive and valuable library 
of Arabic manuscripts at Fas, consisting of 
many thousand volumes. Some of the more 
intelligent literary Moors are acquainted with 
events that happened formerly, during the time 
6f the Roman power, which Europeans do not 



AND ANECDOTES. 



3<25 



possess. Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of 
Abda, was perfectly acquainted with Livy and 
Tacitus, and had read those works from the 
library at Fas. It is more than probable that 
the works of these authors, as well as those of 
many other Romans and Greeks, are to be 
found translated into the Arabic language, in 
the hands of private individuals in West and in 
South Barbary. This library was dispersed at the 
accession of Muley Soliman, and books com- 
menting on the Koran only were retained ; the 
rest were burned or dispersed among the 
natives. 

Deism. 

Deism was very prevalent throughout the 
empire. When the present Emperor Soliman 
came to the throne, the deists went about in 
large numbers, exclaiming, La Allah ila Allah, 
" There is no God but God." The Emperor 
soon silenced these people, by proclaiming that 
if any should be found uttering this truth, 
without adding, " Muhamed is his prophet," 
should ( q ekul lassah) be beat. The sect soon 
disappeared. 

q This punishment is inflicted by two men, one on each 
side ; the culprit is stretched naked on the ground, and 
beat on the back unmercifully, with sticks two yards Jong, 
and as thick as a finger. 



326 



FRAGMENTS 



Muhamedan Loyalty. 

An alkaid of a district in the province of 
Abda, when that province submitted to the 
Emperor, went to His Majesty, taking with 
him the fruit of his government, viz. 100,000 
dollars'. He prostrated himself before the 
Emperor, and announced that he had brought 
this money to the Muselman treasury, being 
what he had collected since the death of the 
Emperor's father. " I have lived splendidly, and 
have never wanted any thing, or I should have 
brought Your Majesty much more treasure." 
" You have been," said the Emperor, " a faith- 
ful servant, and you shall be rewarded." He 
was promoted to a government, and had many 
opportunities of refunding his loss. A large 
sum was returned to him for his fidelity. 

Cairo. 

The city of El Kahira is called by Europeans 
Cairo. When Kairo was founded, in the S59th 
year of the Hejra, the planet Mars was in 
ascension; and it is Mars who conquers the 
universe : " therefore," said Moaz, (the son of El 
Mansor) to his son, u 1 have given it tl*e name 
of El Kahira."* 

r El Kahira is the Arabic for the planet Mars, and sig- 
nifies victorious. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



327 



Races of Men constituting the Inhabitants of 
West and South Barbary, and that Part of 
Bled el Jereed, called Tqfileltand Sejin Messa, 
east of the Atlas, forming the Territories of the 
present Emperor of Marocco. 

The Moors, who inhabit the towns on the 
coast, and the cities of Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, 
and Terodant ; who speak a corrupt Arabic 
language. 

The Berebbers, who appear to be the Abori- 
gines, and who retain precisely the same cha- 
racter that was anciently given of the Mauri- 
tanians by Sallust. These people inhabit the 
mountains of Atlas* north of the city of 
Marocco, and have a language peculiar to 
themselves. They are a hardy race of warriors, 
as artful as they are indefatigable in war ; when 
attacked by the imperial troops, they defend 
themselves valiantly; and, by stratagem and 
device, often surprise and defeat the Emperor's 
best troops, the abeed Seedy Bukaree. They 
call the Negro and Arab troops of the Emperor, 
(mdden el grudder), a mine of deceit, and 
never trust to their vows and promises, even if 
they swear by the Koran. They are a restless 
turbulent race, and have never been conquered. 
They have adopted the Muhamedan doctrines. 

The Shelluhs, or inhabitants of the Atlas, who 
dwell in houses in the mountains south of 
Marocco, in the province of Haha, and in part 
of Suse. These are a weaker race, not so 



FRAGMENTS 



athletic and robust as the Berebbers. Their 
language has been represented to be similar to 
that of the Berebbers, but that is evidently a 
mistake ; I have travelled through their country, 
and through the country of the Berebbers, and 
have conversed with hundreds, nay, I may say, 
with thousands of them : I have no hesitation in 
declaring them to be a different race. Their 
language, costume, and habits differ ; the 
Shelluhs, however, possess the same art and du- 
plicity with the Berebbers. 

The Arabs, who live in douars of tents, and 
inhabit the immense plains west of the Atlas, 
are the agriculturists of the country. They form 
the principal population of this terrestrial para- 
dise ; they are for the most part emigrations 
from the Sahara, several centuries ago, and 
speak the true Arabic language. These are a 
fine race of men, possessing, in a superlative 
degree, some of the noblest qualities of the 
human race. To these may be added 

The Jews, who wear a distinguishing costume, 
and a black cap ; they are all engaged in trade, 
and form one-seventh of the population of the 
walled habitations. They are held in great con- 
tempt, and are treated very rudely by the Arabs, 
and therefore are seldom met with among the 
encampments of that people. 

A douar is a village of tents ; these tents are 
made of goats' and camels' hair ; they are made 
by the females, are of a close texture, extremely 
warm, and impervious to the rain : thus they 



AND ANECDOTES. 



329 



are cool in the summer, and warm in the rainy 
season. In countries exposed to the attacks of 
neighbouring kabyles, they are arranged in a 
circular form, covering sometimes several acres 
of ground, having a large keyma or Arab tent 
in the centre of the circle, which serves for a 
jamma, or meeting for morning and evening 
prayers, and at other times for an emdursa> or 
seminary, where the Muhamedan youth are 
taught to read the Koran, and to write, as they 
call it, {Sultan men Elsen) the sultan of lan- 
guages, or language of languages. The tent- 
pegs of the respective tents are indented within 
each other, so that the cattle cannot go out or 
in ; moreover, a hedge of thorny bushes en- 
circles the whole, secured by staves drove into 
the ground. The camels, horses, mules, horned 
cattle, sheep, and goats, are all inclosed in a 
division of the circular area during the night, 
and a fire is kept all night, to keep off the lions 
and wild beasts. The incessant barking of dogs, 
which are very numerous among the Arabs, 
prevent the travellers unaccustomed to these 
habitations from sleeping. 

Various Modes of Intoxication. 

All nations have some method of getting rid 
of reason, for the purpose of indulging in the 
vacuum and temporary independence produced 
by intoxication. We, of Europe, have recourse 
to wine to effect this purpose : the opulent 
indulge in the libations of claret, burgundy, 



sso 



FRAGMENTS 



and champagne^ the middling classes have 
recourse to brandy, rum, and gin; but the 
African effects this purpose at far less expense. 
A muselman procures ample temporary relief 
from worldly care for a mere trifle : he buys at 
the (attara), drug shop, for a penny, a small 
pipe of el keef or hashisha; this completely effects 
his purpose. The leaves of this drug, which is 
a kind of hemp, are called el hashisha; the 
flower of the plant is called el keef, and is much 
more powerful in its inebriating, quality than 
the hashisha, but a pipe of the latter will have 
as powerful an effect as two or three bottles of 
wine. It is said, that when the patient is 
under the influence of pleasant imaginations, 
the fume of this drug increases the sensation 
into the most pleasing delirium, engendering 
the most luxuriant images, and promoting a 
voluptuous vacuum. But when the person's 
ill fate tempts him to taste it in a melancholy 
mood, it protracts the gloomy moments, and 
gives the woes of life a longer duration : he 
utters sighs and lamentations, he apprehends 
nothing but misery and misfortune, till the effect 
of the drug is exhausted, and he awakes from 
his dream of woe. 



Division of Agricultural Property. 

Agricultural property is ascertained by a large 
stone laid at each corner of a plantation of corn, 
a direct line is drawn from stone to stone at 



AND ANECDOTES. 



331 



the season of reaping; it has, perhaps, never 
been known, that these partitions have been 
removed for the purpose of encroachment ; a 
mutual confidence, and a point of honour 
renders this mode of discriminating the re- 
spective property of individuals adequate to 
every purpose of hedge or ditch. 

Mines. 

The mountains that separate the province of 
Suse from that of Draha, abound in iron, 
copper, and lead. Ketiwa, a district on the 
declivity of Atlas, east of Terodant, contains 
also mines of lead and brimstone ; and saltpetre 
also, of a superior quality, abounds in the 
neighbourhood of Terodant. In the same 
mountains, about fifty or sixty miles south-west 
of Terodant, there are mines of iron of a very 
malleable quality, equal to that of Biscay in 
Spain, from which the people of Tagrasert 
manufacture gun-barrels, equal to those made 
in Europe. At Elala in Suse, in the same ridge 
of mountains, are several rich mines of copper, 
some of which are impregnated with gold: 
they have also a rich silver mine, the metal of 
which latter is cast in round lumps, weighing 
two or three ounces each piece. I have bought 
of this silver at Santa Cruz, and have paid 
Spanish dollars for it, weight for weight ; it is 
very pure. Mines of antimony and lead ore 
are also found in Suse, impregnated with gold, 



FRAGMENTS 



some specimens of which I sent to England to 
be analyzed ; but being informed that it yielded 
gold sufficient only to pay the expenses of 
purifying, I gave no farther attention to it, 
although I have had reason to think, since then, 
that an importation of the ore would amply pay 
the importer. 

Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, 
called by the Arabs Butelleese ; and its Remedy, 

During my residence at Santa Cruz, I had a 
cousin with me who was afflicted with this dis- 
order. When the sun sat his blindness came 
on, and continued till the rising sun. This 
youth was so afflicted, during a month, with 
this disorder, that he could scarcely see his way 
with a candle in his hand, so that it was quite 
painful to see him groping about. An Arab of 
the Woled Abbusebah Kabyl, who retain much 
of the science and art of their ancestors, and 
whose prosperity I had promoted at Santa 
Cruz, by facilitating his commercial adventures, 
communicated to me a simple remedy for 
this disorder; I put no faith in it, for it was 
so simple that I was disposed to think it an 
illusion. He called on me, however, repeatedly, 
and finding I had not applied it, he brought it 
one morning himself, and urged me to try it. 
I did so ; and that same evening the eyes of the 
youth were almost well, and his sight was com- 
pletely restored the following night. This 



AND ANECDOTES. 



333 



ophthalmic affection, in an Arabic translation 
of Hippocrates, is called Butelleese ; another 
translation of ancient date calls it Shebkeret: 
the name, however, by which it is known at 
the present day in Africa, is Butelleese : the 
Latins called it Lusciosus, which word denotes 
precisely the disease, viz. one who sees im- 
perfectly in the morning and evening twilight, 
but whose vision is clear at broad day-light. 
Lusciosus ad lucernam non videt. Vesperi non 
videre quos lusciosos appellant. Plaut. Mil. 
Gl. ii. 3. 

This ophthalmia has been by some denomi- 
nated hen-blindness, from the circumstance of 
hens' eyes being thus affected, when they are 
unable to see to pick up small grains in the 
dusk of the evening. I have frequently seen 
fowls thus affected soon after going to sea, from 
the coast of Africa, after which they decline 
and grow sick. A quantity of small gravel 
should be spread in their coops at sea, which 
prevents this disorder, and will sometimes cure 
it. At the commencement of this complaint, the 
circumstance that first engages the patient's 
attention is the dimness of his eye-sight at 
twilight : the nocturnal dimness of vision was 
such, in the instance before-mentioned, that 
the youth could scarcely see, even with a candle 
in his hand, which he described, as seen by 
him, as if it were misty, or as glimmering in a 
thick fog. There was no external disfiguration 
visible in the eyes, but they appeared as usual. 



334 



FRAGMENTS 



What the cause of this disorder was I am 
unable to say ; but I have often suspected that 
it was contracted from the shining of the sun on 
the white terras of the house where my cousin 
used to go of a morning to shoot tibeebs, a bird 
somewhat resembling the European sparrow. 
This youth was rather of a weak or delicate 
constitution. I did not repeat the above remedy, 
as the boy's eyes continued well, without any 
defect in the vision at any time of the day or 
night, till seven-and-twenty days had elapsed, 
when the disorder returned. I procured the 
remedy again, and he took it : it had the same 
effect as before ; he took it again, and then 
continued well for a month. It again returned 
a third time, and was cured by one single 
administration, after which it entirely disap- 
peared, and never returned. Some time after 
this, I was informed that the British fleet in 
the Mediterranean was affected with this dis- 
order; that one-tenth, or more, of the crews 
of our ships had laboured under it ; and, on my 
return to England, I was urged to represent to 
His Majesty's ministers, that I had an, infallible 
remedy for the disorder. I was referred to 
Doctor Harness, of the Transport Board. I 
waited on the Doctor, and afterwards, corre- 
sponded with him. He appeared very desirous of 
knowing the remedy ; but he was not at liberty 
to grant me any remuneration for it. I, how- 
ever, offered to discover it, on being reimbursed 
the sum which the remedy cost me, on experi- 



AND ANECDOTES. 



335 



mental proof being produced of its infallibility ; 
which proposition was rejected by the Transport 
Board in August, 1812, who informed me at the 
same time, that the Lords Commissioners of 
the Admiralty did not judge proper to grant 
the sum required by me for the discovery of the 
remedy for Nyctalopia, which, I should add, was 
between 500/. and 600/. The remedy, there- 
fore, remains a secret to this day. 

A celebrated electrician and galvanist having 
conversed with me lately respecting this remedy 
for Nyctalopia, suggested to me the probability, 
that the same remedy might be effectual also in 
gutta serena, as both those disorders are known 
to proceed from a defect in the optic nerve. This 
opinion he corroborated, by quoting, in confirm- 
ation of it, the opinion of a well-known author. 
The electrician perceiving my incredulity, or 
more properly, my ignorance of the wonderful 
connection that exists between the intestines and 
the head, was prompted, as I verily believe, by 
a philanthropic disposition ^ and actually proved 
to me, experimentally, the influence which the 
eyes have on the intestines, and vice versa. A 
patient with a gutta serena f who had been, as 
he informed me, twelve months under the hands 
of a celebrated oculist, was recommended by the 
latter, as a last resource, to try galvanism. He 
had received no benefit whatever whilst under 
the direction of the oculist above alluded to, 
but his intestines were intolerably deranged by 
the effects of the mercury which he had taken. 



336 



FRAGMENTS 



This gentleman galvanised his eyes, and the 
man, who is a gunsmith, told me, that when 
he first went to have the operation performed, 
he could not see the red border round the 
hearth-rug in the front parlour, but when he 
returned into that room, after having been 
galvanised, he assured me he saw it plainly. 
He moreover declared that his bowels had been, 
and then were, in a very deranged state, from 
the effects of the mercury which he had taken, 
but that he felt incredible relief after having 
been galvanised, and that two or three days 
afterwards, they were quite restored to health 
and strength. Being thus satisfied with the in- 
fluence that so wonderfully exists between the 
intestines and the eyes, I am now making 
arrangements with the same gentleman, to 
administer the remedy for the benefit, as we 
hope, of patients afflicted with gutta serena. 
But I now declare to the public a third 
time, that the remedy is simple, safe, and 
effectual, and that I am ready and desirous of 
administering it to any one who may choose to 
apply for it, who is afflicted with the disorder, 
with my positive assurances, that it will effect a 
cure in eight-and-forty hours at the utmost, but 
probably in twenty-four. 



Vaccination. 



Intelligence received from West Barbary was 
instrumental in promoting the adoption of 



AND ANECDOTES. 



vaccination. In the latter years of the last 
century, the small-pox pervaded West and 
South Barbary. Mr. Matra, the British consul* 
general to the Empire of Marocco, wrote to 
me at that period officially, to procure him 
every information possible, and to inform him 
if I could discover if cattle in this country were 
subject to the small-pox. I made every inquiry 
without delay, and I reported to His Excellency, 
(who was ambassador as well as consul), that I 
had ascertained that the horses, mules, asses> 
and oxen were subject in this country to the 
small-pox, of which there could be no doubt, 
as the name given to the disorder in the beasts 
of the field, was the same as that which desig- 
nated the small-pox in the human species, viz. 
Jedrie. In consequence of this information, 
confirmed afterwards by other enquiries, His 
Excellency wrote to England on the subject, 
and, I believe, sent some vaccine pus home ; 
soon after which Dr. Jenner began his experi- 
ments on vaccine inoculation, which have 
since been adopted throughout Europe, and in 
great part of Asia and America. Although 
I was thus instrumental in the propagation 
of vaccine inoculation, yet I never asked 
for or received any remuneration ; but I feel 
a satisfaction in having been thus instrumental 
of good to mankind, in this new and eligible 
system of inoculation, by means of which human 
life has been preserved ; for, according to Sir 
Gilbert Blane's late statement, 23,134 lives 



338 



FRAGMENTS 



have been saved daring the last 15 years by 
vaccination. 

' Game. 

All kinds of game are plentiful in South and 
in West Barbary ; viz. el gror, a bird somewhat 
similar to the English partridge, but unknown in 
Europe. I shot some of these birds for Doctor 
Brussonet, the naturalist, who was intendantof the 
national garden of botany at Montpelier, which 
that gentleman prepared in the oven, and sent to 
the National Institute at Paris. He informed me 
this bird was a non-descript. Hares, antelopes, 
woodcocks, snipes, plovers, bustards. There is 
an abundance of partridges, red ducks as large 
as geese, ducks, wigeon, and teal ; curlews, in 
immense quantities, are found in the flat parts of 
the country on the coast ^ immense quantities of 
doves, wild pigeons, wood-pigeons, and large 
sand-larks. Every person is at liberty to shoot ; 
but the princes and the great, consider field- 
sports beneath their dignity, except hawking, 
and hunting the wild boar* the lion, and the 
tiger. The Muhamedans do not prefer game to 
other food. When they have shot a bird, they 
immediately cut its throat, that the blood may 
flow freely ; otherwise it is not lawful to eat it. 
Game is never seen in the public markets. 
When they shoot for Europeans, they dispense 
with the ceremony of cutting the throat of 
the game. They reproach the Christians for 
eating such food, which they call (m'jeefa) 
" strangled." 



AND ANECDOTES. 



339 



Agriculture. — Mitferes. 

The agriculturists, in all the Arab provinces 
throughout this empire, have subterraneous ca- 
verns or apartments, generally in the form of a 
cone, for the preservation of their corn during 
a scarcity or famine. During my residence in 
this country, I have investigated the method, 
and have learned the art of constructing these 
depositories of grain. They season them before 
the corn is deposited. They should not be con- 
structed in a clay soil. In these mitferes, through- 
out the Arab provinces of Duquella, Temsena, 
Shawiya, &c. they preserve the corn sound dur- 
ing thirty years. I have been present at the 
opening of them after the corn had been de- 
posited twenty-one years. It was perfectly 
sound. When these depositories are opened, 
each family takes a portion of the grain, so as 
to distribute the whole immediately ; otherwise, 
in a few months, if not consumed, it acquires 
a* peculiar bad flavour, which is called the mit- 
fire twang. To prevent this, an Arab, on open- 
ing one of these depositaries, lends corn to all 
his neighbours, and in his turn he receives it 
back again, when they respectively open theirs. It 
is unnecessary to expatiate on the expediency of 
constructing mitferes in a country oftentimes vi- 
sited by locusts, the plague, drought, or inun- 
dation. There would be a manifest policy in esta- 
blishing similar granaries in our colony in South 
Africa, where I understand they are visited by 



310 



FRAGMENTS 



locusts, and where the soil is similar to that of 
West and South Barbary. All the valuable 
gums that Barbary now supplies Europe with, 
and also many articles of commerce not yet 
known at the Cape, might be procured from 
Barbary, and if transplanted to that colony, 
would undoubtedly thrive, from the similarity of 
climate and soil. 

Laws of Hospitality. 

The territory of the Emperor of Marocco, 
west of the mountains of Atlas, and from the 
shores of the Mediterranean to the confines of 
the Shelluh province of Haha, is one continual 
corn-field, inhabited by Arabs living in douars 
or encampments : much of the ground, however, 
lies fallow. These encampments are fixed gene- 
rally at a considerable distance from the track 
of travellers, so that a person unacquainted 
with this circumstance, would be disposed to 
imagine the country thinly inhabited. The tents 
in safe countries, where there is no fear of 
wild beasts, are pitched in a straight line ; but 
where lions or other ferocious animals are found, 
the tents are disposed in a circular form; and 
thorny bushes are placed round the douar, to 
prevent the visits of these unwelcome guests. 
The Arabs are the agriculturists of the coun- 
try, and are for the most part emigrations from 
the original stock in Sahara. These people have 
preserved from time immemorial the practice of 
open and unrestrained hospitality. Their pro- 



AND ANECDOTES. 



341 



phet confirmed these propensities ; and hospi- 
tality has been ever since, the predominant 
virtue of the Arab. Accordingly, Muhame- 
dans are entitled, through their various jour- 
neys, to be entertained three days wherever 
they sojourn. A traveller, therefore, when he 
chooses to rest from the fatigue of his journey, 
goes to one of these douars and exclaims {JDeef 
Allali)* " the guests of God." The sheik then 
comes forth from his tent to receive him or 
them : {Kheyma Deaf) the travellers' or guests' 
tent is appropriated to the stranger ; food is 
brought to him, agreeably to his rank in life, 
but always simple, good, and wholesome. Here 
he may remain, if he chooses, for three days, 
without being considered an intruder, and free 
of all expense whatsoever. If he wishes to ex- 
ceed the three days allowed by the Muhamedan 
law, he must prove his poverty ; which being 
done, he may be entertained for a further period 
of time : but this latter is quite optional ; no 
man is compelled to entertain and provide food 
for strangers and travellers, without remunera- 
tion, above three days. 

This hospitality extends not generally to all 
mankind, but to Muhamedans only. A Chris- 
tian or a Jew would be expected to pay a trifle 
for his entertainment ; although, in travelling 
through the province of Suse, the Arabs have 
absolutely refused to take any remuneration from 
me ; but that is not generally the case, nor 
ought such conduct to be expected : in the in- 



FRAGMENTS 



stances before-mentioned, these people consi- 
dered themselves so much benefited by the 
opening of the port of Santa Cruz, that they 
thought they could not do enough for me. I 
was, therefore, every where received in that 
province with the most cordial marks of disin- 
terested hospitality. 

The laws of hospitality are sacred and invio- 
lable. This I will elucidate, by relating a cir- 
cumstance that happened while I was at Ma- 
rocco. The Emperor was dissatisfied with the 
conduct of four sheiks of Suse : they had not 
discharged the duties of their public vocation, 
but had abused their office ; the Emperor had 
issued orders to arrest them, but by some means 
they got intelligence of the orders ; they there- 
fore immediately ordered their horses, and de- 
camped in the evening from Marocco : they 
knew they should not be safe any where from 
the Emperor's grasp, but under the protection 
of the Khalif Muhamed ben Delemy, whom, 
however, they had in some manner injured ; 
nevertheless, knowing the noble character of 
the man, they were resolved to try their fate \ 
accordingly, they made haste to reach the gates 
of his castle in Shtuka, before the Emperor 
might discover their departure. They arrived, 
and exclaiming Deqf Allah, they were admitted. 
Delemy told them, that although they had not 
behaved friendly to him, he would protect them. 
His gates, he said, were always open to the 
children of adversity, and they might depend on 



AND ANECDOTES. 



343 



his protection. The Emperor soon discovered, 
by diligent enquiry, what route they had taken, 
and His Imperial Majesty urged Delemy to 
deliver them up ; but the latter expostulated, 
and observing that he should not deserve the 
name of an Arabian sheik, if he degraded him- 
self by giving up those who had claimed his 
protection, in his own country ; and he actually 
granted them protection several months ; till, at 
length, finding they could not escape the hand 
of power, by any plan but that of going into 
the Sahara, Delemy agreed to see them safe out 
of the Emperor's dominions, and accompanied 
them to Akka, and beyond that place, till they 
reached the Sahara, where being perfectly safe, 
he took his leave of them, and they exchanged 
Salems. 

Punishment for Murder. 

If a man commits murder, the friends of the 
murdered claim redress of the alkaid, if in a 
town, — •. of the bashaw of the province, if in 
the country. If the murderer is discovered, 
he is taken into custody, to suffer death, unless 
the relations of the murdered man choose to 
compromise with the relations of the murderer : 
in which case, a sum of money is paid to the 
former, and the matter is thus settled. 

Insolvency Laws. 

An insolvent cannot be detained in prison 
after his insolvency is ascertained. He gives up 
his property to his creditors j but if he should 



FRAGMENTS 



afterwards become a man of substance, his cre- 
ditors can claim the amount of their debts, de- 
ducting what they have already received. 

Dances. 

The dances of the Arabs are peculiar to them- 
selves. The youths dance without females, and 
the females without youths. On all marriages 
and rejoicings, music and dancing continue till 
the dawn of day. Among the encampments of 
Arabs, in the summer season, the whole country* 
at night, is in a blaze of light. The kettle-drum, 
the triangle, the shepherd's pipe, and the erbeb 
an instrument resembling the fiddle, with two 
strings, form the band of music. 

The youths form a double row of six or eight 
in each, and carry themselves erect, with their 
arms hanging down close to their side ; moving 
obliquely to the right, then to the left, without 
taking their feet from the ground, hut moving 
their heels, then their toes on the ground* ad- 
vancing or gliding slowly along ; keeping exact 
time with the music : they then vault in the air, 
perform somersets and various feats of agility. 
They sing also with great taste and judgment, 
and some of them have excellent voices, being 
selected for the purpose of affording entertain- 
ment to the spectators. The ladies dance also 
in a similar manner, but without the vaulting 
and somersets. They have a very elegant shawl- 
dance, which some of them dance with great 
taste, and with much graceful movement. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



345 



Circumcision. 

The circumcision of male children is the ge- 
neral practice of Islaemism ; it is also used among 
some of the a Khaffers or Cafers of North, Cen- 
tral, and South Africa. Circumcision is not a 
practice ascribed to a principle of cleanliness, 
or any other cause, but ancient usage. The 
period of performing this operation among the 
Arabs is at the age of eight years. 

Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz. 

Transport of ( b Alk Sudan) gum of Sudan, 
bought at Timbuctoo, on account of Messrs. 
James Jackson and Co. by their agent, L'Hage 

Muhamed O n, and dispatched to Akka by 

the spring (akkaba) accumulated caravan, in 
February, 1794. 

M. Doll 

200 camel loads of gurn-sudan, each 
weighing 2501b. nett, bought at 
Timbuctoo, at four Mexico dollars 
per load, - - - 800 

* Khaffer (singular number) is an Arabic term, applied to 
all who are not Muhamedans; all Pagans, Jews, and 
Christians, are called Khaffer, JCfer (plural) Kqffer billa, an 
atheist : hence Caffraria. the name of the country near the 
Cape of Good Hope. 

b This gum is the produce of an enormous tree of Sudan> 
which flourishes near Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and 
Bernoh (or Bernou) it is transported by the caravans to 
Alexandria in Egypt, to Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers. From 
the African ports in the Mediterranean it is shipped to 
Smyrna and Constantinople, and from thence to England, 
under the denomination of Turkey gum; some goes to 
Mogodor and Tetuan, and thence to London. 



346 



FRAGMENTS 



M. Doll. 

Brought forward 800 
Charges. — Cow-skins to pack it in, sticks 

to stow it on the camels, &c. - 25 
200 camels hired to Akka, at 18 Mexico 

dollars each, - - 3600 

Stata, i. e. convoy through the Sahara, 

from Timbuctoo to Arawan, at 20 

cents per camel, 40 
Do. from Arawan to East Tagrassa, at 

20 cents per camel, - 40 

Do. from East Tagrassa to Akka, at 

40 cents per camel, - - 40 

20 per cent., or one-fifth, on the first 

cost, to be allowed to the purchaser 

on safe arrival at Akka, - 16Q 

4705 

The adventure is subject to this charge, pro- 
vided it arrive safe at Akka, not otherwise, as 
also to encourage the agent at Timbuctoo, to 
exert himself in procuring trusty guides and com- 
petent statas, which he would not do, without 
having a certain interest in the safe delivery. 

N.B. No stata is necessary from Akka to 
Santa Cruz, but the hire is 3 dollars per camel. 

Translation of a Letter from Timbuctoo, "which 
accompanied the foregoing Consignment. 

Praise be to God alone ; for there is nothing 
durable but the kingdom of heaven. 

To the Christian merchant, Jackson, at Aga* 
deer. Peace be to those who follow the right 
way. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



347 



This being premised, know that I have sent 
you by this akkabah, two hundred camel load of 
gum-sudan, agreeable to the account herewith 
transmitted. The stata will be paid by my friend, 
L'Hage Aly, sheik of Akka, whom I request you 
will reimburse according to the account which I 
have sent to you by him ; and if he goes to 
Agadeer, be kind, friendly, and hospitable to 
him on my account, for he stands high in my 
esteem ; and peace be with you. 

Written at Timbuctoo, 10th of the month Mu- 
ll ar ram, year of the Hejra 1208, (corresponding 
with 15th Feb. A. C. 1794). By your friend, 
L'Hage Muhamed O n. 

God be merciful to him. 

Invoice from Timbuctoo to Fas, 

Transport of gold, gum, and cottons, from 
Timbuctoo to Fas, consigned to L'Hage Seyd 
and L'Hage Abdrahaman Elfellely, Timbuctoo 
merchants at Fas, by (akkaba el Kherijjy) the 
autumnal caravan. Dispatched 29th Duelhaja el 
Hurem, year 1204, corresponding with 10th 
October, A. C. 1790. 

500 skins (TibberWangaree) gold dust of Wan- 
gara, each skin containing 4 ounces, bought 
on their account, in barter for 800 Flemish 
plattilias. 

100 (Sibikat deheb Wa?igaree) Wangara gold 
in bars, weighing 20 ounces each, bought 
in exchange for 400 pieces (Shkalat) Irish 
cloth, averaging 44 cubits each piece (7 
cubits are equal to 4 English yards). 



S48 



FRAGMENTS 



10 bed-covers, 9 cubits long, 4 wide, che- 
quered pattern, blue and white cotton, with 
scarlet silk between the chequers, manu- 
factured at Timbuctoo, bought in barter for 
1001b. sugar, 30 loaves. 

50 camel-load gum-sudan, weighing nett 120 
quintals. 

Charges. — Hire of 50 camels to Akka, at 18 

dollars each. 
Stata to ditto, 1 dollar per load, to be paid 

by Sheik Aly ben A r. 

Copy of the Letter accompanying the foregoing 
Remittance. 

Praise be to God alone ; for there is neither 
beginning nor strength, without God, the eternal 
God. 

To my friends, L'Hage Zeyd and L'Hage Ab- 
drahaman Elfellely, Peace be with ye, and the 
mercy of the High God ; and after that, know, 
that I have sent to our agents at Akka, by the 
autumnal caravan, 50 camel loads of gum-sudan, 
being 100 skins ; in each skin of gum I have 
packed 5 skins of gold dust, and 1 bar of gold. 
L'Hage Tahar ben Jelule will deliver to our 
agent at Akka, for you, 10 very handsome cotton 
covers for beds, of Sudan manufacture. May 
all this arrive safe, with the blessing of God. I 
will inform you by the spring caravan what mer- 
chandize to send here next autumn. I refer you 
to a long letter, which I have sent to you by 
L'Hage Tahar. Peace be with you, and the 
blessing of God be upon you. 



AND ANECDOTES. 



349 



Written at Timbuctoo, the 29th Duelhaja El 
Huram, year 1204. 

L'Hage Hamed Elwangarie. 
c God protect him. 

Food of the Desert. 

The people, whose interest induces them to 
cross the desert, (for there are no travellers from 
curiosity in this country,) obviate the objection to 
salt provisions, which increases the propensity 
to drink water, by taking with them melted 
butter, called smin; this is prepared without 
salt. They also cut beef into long pieces, about 
six inches long, and one inch square, without 
fat; these are called el kuddeed, which are 
hung on a line, exposed to the air till dry ; they 
then cut them into pieces, two inches long ; 
these are put into (buckuT) an earthen pot; 
they then pour the smin into the buckul till it 
is covered. This meat and butter, besides being 
palatable, is comprised in a small compass, and 
feeds many. When this butter has been thus 
prepared and kept twelve or fifteen years, it is 
called budrd, and is supposed to contain pene- 
trating active medicinal qualities. I have seen 
some thirty years old. 

Antithesis, a favourite Figure with the Arabs. 

Mahmoud, sultan of Ghezna in the beginning 
of the eleventh century, though the son of a 

€ The Muhamedans, in signing their name, always invoke 
the protection, mercy- or providence of God upon them- 
selves. 



3S0 FHASMENTS 

slave* was very powerful. He sent to the 
khalif Alkader, requesting a title suited to his 
exalted dignity. The latter hesitated ; but fear- 
ing the power of the sultan, sent him at the 
expiration of a year the ambiguous title, Uly 9 
i. e. a prince, a friend, a slave. Mahmoud 
penetrated the khalif f s meaning, and sent him 
immediately 100,000 pieees of gold, with a wish 
to know whether a letter had not been omitted. 
Alkader deceived the treasure, and took the 
hint, instantly dispatching letters patent in full 
form, creating him Valy y which signifies, 
without equivocation, a sovereign independent 
prhfce. 

Arabian Modes of Writings 

The Arabs have various modes of writing, 
the principal of which is that used by the 
Koreish, the most learned of all the Western 
tribes, and is denominated the Niskhi, or upright 
character : if this is understood, the others 
may be easily comprehended; This is the cha- 
racter in which the Koran was originally written. 
In the seventh century, the Arabs adopted the 
invention of Moramer ben Morra, a native of 
Babylonian Irak, which was afterwards im- 
proved by the Kufik. The Kufik and the 
Niskhi are synonymous. Richardson, in his 
Arabic Grammar, p. 4. says, " The Mauritannick 
character, which is used by the Moors of Marocco 
and Barbary, descendants of the Arabians, differs 



AND ANECDOTES. 



351 



in many respects considerably from the other modes 
of writing." But this is incorrect; for the Mauri- 
tannick alphabet, excepting in the order of the 
letters, is precisely the same with the Oriental, as 
now written and spoken, with the exception only 
of the letters Fa and Kqf, and the formation even 
of these characters are alike. The punctuation 
only, differs - in the West, that is, west of the 
Egyptian Nile. The Western punctuation of Fa, 
is one point below the letter, and the punctua* 
tion of the letter Kqf is one point above. In 
the East, the former letter has one point above, 
the latter has two* This is the only difference 
between the Eastern and the Western alphabets. 
Richardson, (see his Grammar, page 5,) also says, 
that " the purest Arabic is spoken at Grand 
Cairo," but this is not correct: the language of 
Grand Cairo and of Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, and 
Marocco are much alike, but none of them 
are the pure Koraisch or Korannick Arabic, 
which is only spoken at Mekka, and among 
some of the tribes of Bedouins in the West. 
The language of the Woled Abbusebah, of the 
Ho war a, and of the Mograffra is the pure Arabic. 
Finally, in a note in Richardson's Grammar, 
page 18, it is said, " Some of our European 
writers, and amongst others Voltaire, substitute 
Koran for Alcoran, but perhaps improperly, as 
D'Herbelot and other learned Orientalists, write 
uniformly V Alcoran, il Alcorano, the Alcoran." 
We have been too apt to copy the orthography 
of Oriental names from the French, whose pro- 
nunciation of the Roman or European characters 



FRAGMENTS 



differs from ours. There cannot be a doubt that 
D'Herbelot is incorrect. The word Koran (for 
there is no c in the Arabic language) is derived 
from the verb Kora, to read ; koran, reading : 
Al is the article ; but, in this instance, D'Her- 
belot uses this article twice, which is certainly 
erroneous, for /' is the French article in the word 
in question, and al is the Arabic article; whereas 
one article only should precede a noun. & Al- 
coran and the Alcoran are therefore equally in- 
correct; for the word in French should be Le 
Cor an; in English, the Koran; therefore Voltaire 
was correct. I have thought it expedient to 
make these observations, because standing in 
Hichardson's Grammar on the authority of 
learned orientalists, they are calculated to mislead 
the Arabic student. 

Decay of Science and the Arts among the Arabs. 

The literary fire of the Arabs and Persians 
has been extinguished upwards of 300 years; but 
before that period, the encouragement to learn- 
ing in the East was unprecedented, and has 
never been equalled by any European nation 
either before or since that period. Kadder 
Khan, king of Turquestan, was the greatest 
support to science. When he appeared abroad, 
he was preceded by 700 horsemen, with silver 
battle-axes, and was followed by an equal 
number bearing maces of gold. He supported 
with magnificent appointment a literary aca- 
demy in his palace, consisting of 100 men of 



AND ANECDOTES. 



353 



the highest reputation. Amak, called Abu Naib 
El Bokari, who was the chief poet, exclusive of 
a great pension and a vast number of slaves, 
had, in attendance wherever he went, thirty 
horses of state richly caparisoned, and a retinue 
in proportion. The king before mentioned used 
to preside at their exercises of genius, on which 
occasions, by the side of his throne were always 
placed four large basons filled with gold and 
silver, which he distributed liberally to those 
who excelled. 

Lebid suspended over the gate at Mecca a 
sublime poem ; Muhamed placed near it the 
opening of the second chapter of the Koran, 
which was conceived to be something divine, 
and it gained the prize of the Ocadh assembly. 

The remains of this custom of suspending 
over gates Arabic poems, is perceived at this 
day among the western Moors. The gates or 
entrances to Mogodor, Fas, Mequinas, Ma- 
rocco, &c. have writing over them, which is a 
kind of Arabic short-hand, that none but the 
learned understand; these writings, however, 
are not moveable, being engraven on a square 
table on the stone itself. 

ILxtraor dinar y Abstinence experienced in the 
Sahara. 

The Arabs or inhabitants of the Sahara, can 
support the most extraordinary abstinence. Oc- 
casions occur, wherein they will travel several 



S54 



FRAGMENTS, &C. 



days without food. After suffering a privation 
of a day or two, they tie their (hazam) belt 
round their loins, every morning tighter than 
the preceding day, thereby preventing, in some 
measure, that action of the bowels which pro- 
motes appetite. A Saharawan will thus go five 
or six days without food of any kind, in which 
case, when he reaches a habitation, or a (wah) 
cultivated spot in the Desert, he will drink 
about half-a-pint of camel's milk ; this remains 
on the stomach but a short time : he then takes 
another draught, which, with some, remains and 
gives nourishment, but with others it is also 
rejected by the stomach ; a third draught is then 
taken, which restores the exhausted traveller ! 
I have been assured, that instances have been 
known in Sahara, wherein a man has been 
without food of any kind for seven days, and 
has afterwards been restored by the foregoing 
regimen ! 



355 



LANGUAGES OF AFRICA. 

Various Dialects of the Arabic Language. — Difference 
between the Berebber and Shelluh Languages. — Speci- 
men of the Mandinga. — Comparison of the Shelluh 
Language with that of the Canary Islands, and Simi- 
litude of Customs. 

Yareb, the son of Kohtan a , is said to have 
been the first who spoke Arabic, and the Mu- 
hamedans contend that it is the most eloquent 
language spoken in any part of the globe, and 
that it is the one which will be used at the day 
of judgment. To write a long dissertation on 
this copious and energetic language, would be 
only to repeat what many learned men have said 
before ; a few observations, however, may not 
be superfluous to the generality of readers. The 
Arabic language is spoken by a greater pro- 
portion of the inhabitants of the known world 
than any other : a person having a practical 
knowledge of it, may travel from the shores of 
the Mediterranean Sea to the Cape of Good 
Hope, and notwithstanding that in such a 
journey he must pass through many kingdoms 
and empires of blacks, speaking distinct lan- 
guages, yet he would find men in all those 

* This Kohtan is the Joktan, son of Eber, brother to 
Phaleg, mentioned in Genesis. Chapter x, verse 25. 



556 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



countries versed in Muhamedan learning, and 
therefore acquainted with the Arabic ; again, 
he might cross the widest part of the African 
continent from west to east, and would every- 
where meet with persons acquainted with it, 
more particularly if he should follow the course 
of the great river called the Neel El Abeed, 
on the banks of which, from Jinnie and Tim- 
buctoo, to the confines of lower Egypt, are 
innumerable cities and towns of Arabs and 
Moors, all speaking the Arabic. Again, were 
a traveller to proceed from Marocco to the 
farthest shore of Asia, opposite the islands of 
Japan, he would find the Arabic generally 
spoken or understood wherever he came. In 
Turkey, in Syria, in Arabia, in Persia, and in 
India, it is understood by all men of education ; 
and any one possessing a knowledge of the 
Korannick Arabic, might, in a very short time, 
make himself master of all its various dialects. 

The letters of this language b are formed in 
four distinct ways, according to their situation 
at the beginning, middle, or end of words, as 
well as when standing alone ; the greatest 
difficulty, however, to be overcome, is the 
acquiring a just pronunciation, (without which 
no living language can be essentially useful,) 
and to attain which, the learner should be able 
to express the difference of power and sound 
between what may be denominated the synony- 



b The Oriental punctuation is here adopted. 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



857 



mous letters, such as ^ and ^ with ^ . ^ 
with \ . with ^ . and ^ with ^ . j with 

^ . (J with and ^an d ^jwithj. 

Besides these, there are other letters, whose 
power is extremely difficult to be acquired by 
ay European, because no language in Europe 
possesses sounds similar to the Arabic letters 
^L^X* nor has any language, except, perhaps, 

the English, a letter with the power of the 
Arabian Those who travel into Asia or 

Africa scarcely ever become sufficiently masters 
of the Arabic to speak it fluently, which radical 
defect proceeds altogether from their not learn- 
ing, while studying it, the peculiar distinction 
of the synonymous letters No European, per- 
haps, ever knew more of the theory of this lan- 
guage than the late Sir William Jones, hut still 
he could not converse with an Arabian ; a cir- 
cumstance of which he was not conscious until 
he went to India, This great man, however, 
had he been told that his knowledge of this 
popular eastern language was so far deficient, 
that he was ignorant of the separate powers of 
its synonymous letters, and consequently in- 
adequate to converse intelligibly with a native 
Arab, he would certainly have considered it an 
aspersion, and have disputed altogether that 
such was the fact. Considering how much we 
are indebted to the Arabians for the preserv- 
ation of many of the works of the ancients, 



S5S 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



which would otherwise have never, perhaps, 
been known to us, it is really surprising that 
their language should be so little known in 
Europe. It is certainly very difficult and 
abstruse, (to learners particularly,) but this dif- 
ficulty is rendered insurmountable by the 
European professors knowing it only as a dead 
language, and teaching it without due attention 
to the pronunciation of the before mentioned 
synonymous letters, a defect which is not likely 
to be remedied, and which will always subject the 
speaker to incessant errors. 

To shew the Arabic student the difference 
between the Oriental and Occidental order of 
the letters of the alphabet, I shall here give 
them opposite each other. 

1 Alif 

C Z ba 

3 ta 

4 thsa 

5 jim 

6 hha 

7 kha 

8 dal 

9 dsal 

10 ra 

11 za 



Oriental. Occidental. 





1 


Alif 


\ 




o 


ba 




o — 


3 


ta 


o 




4 


tha 






,5 


jim 


<L 




b 


hha 












<L ~ 


7 


kha 


T* 

^_ 


3 — 


8 


dal 




3 — 


<) 


dth'al 






10 


ra 


1 




11 


zaiu 





ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE* 



359 



Oriental. Occidental. 



12 sin 







12 


ta 




13 shin 







13 


da 




14 sad 







14 


kef 




15 dad 







15 


lam 




16 ta 






16 


mim 


r 


17 da 




_ 


17 


nune 




18 ain 


t 




18 


sad 




19 gain 


t 


— 


19 


dad 




20 fa 







20 


ain 


t 


21 kaf 






21 


g'rain 


i_ 


22 kef 




_ 


22 


fa 




23 lem 


J 




23 


kaf 




24 mim 


\ 




24 


sin 




25 nun 






25 


shin 


■ — .- 


26 waw 


J 




26 


hha 


5 


27 he 






27 


wow 


J 


28 ya 






28 


ia 


<J 


29 lam-alif 






29 


lam-alif 


i 



Besides this difference of the arrangement of 
the two alphabets, the Arabic student will ob- 
serve that there is also a difference in the punctu- 
ation of two of the letters : thus — 

Oriental* Occidental. 

fa (^J fa c»J 

kaf , i kaf . 



360 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



Among the Western Arabs, the ancient 
Arabic figures are used, viz. 0, 1, % 3, 4, 5, 6, 
7, 8, 9: they often write 100 thus, 1. .— 
200, 2 . . 

To explain the force of the synonymous 
letters on paper would be impossible ; the reader, 
however, may form some idea of the indis- 
pensable necessity of knowing the distinction 
by the few words here selected, which to one 
unaccustomed to hear the Arabic language 
spoken, would appear similar and undistinguish- 
able. 

ENGLISH. ARABIC, ARABIC. 

Rendered as near to European pro- 
nunciation as the English Al- 
phabet will admit. 



A horse 


Aoud 




Wood 


Awad 




To repeat 


Aoud 




Fish 


Hout 




A gun 


Mokhalla 




A foolish woman 


Mokeela 




A frying pan 


Makeela 


JiU 


A lion 


Sebah 




Morning 


Sebah 




Seventh 


Sebah 





ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



361 



ENGLISH. 

Hatred 
Harvest 

Learning 



ARABIC, 

Rendered as near to European pro- 
nunciation as the English Al- 
phabet will admit. 

Hassed 
Hassed 



ARABIC, 



( Alem, or El> St u ^ * c », 
\ Alem i ^ 01 ^ 



A flag 


El Alem 




Granulated paste 

The dish it is 7 
made m ) 


Kuscasoe 
Kuscas 


- AJLJ - 


Heart 


Kul'b 


c 


Dog 


Kil'b 




Mould 


Kal'b 




Captain 
Feathers 
Mud 
Smell 


Rice 
Rish 
G'ris 
Shim 




Poison 


Sim b 





b The African Jews find it very difficult in speaking, to 
distinguish between shim and sim, for they cannot pronounce 



362 ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



ENGLISH. 


ARABIC, 

Rendered as near to European pro- 
nunciation as the English Al- 
phabet will admit. 


ARABIC. 


Absent 


G'raib 


• *• 


Butter-milk 


Raib 




White 


Bead 




A black 


El Abd 




Eggs 


mid 




Afar off 


Baid 


u u 


A pig 


Helloof 




An oath 


Hellef 




Feed for horses Alf 




A thousand 


Elf 





It is difficult for any one who has not accu- 
rately studied the Arabic language, to imagine 
the many errors which an European commits 
in speaking it, when self taught, or when 
taught in Europe. This deficiency originates 
in the inaccuracy of the application of the 
guttural and synonymous letters. 

The ain P and the 9 grain cannot be accu- 



the shy (tA) but sound it like s ((j*) ; the very few who 
have studied the art of reading the language, have, however, 
conquered this difficulty. 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 36\3 

rately pronounced by Europeans, who have not 
studied the language grammatically when young. 
The aspirated h, and the hard s 9 in the word 
for morning (sebah), are so much like their 
synonymes, that few Europeans can discern 
the difference ; the one is consequently often 
mistaken for the other ; and I have known 
a beautiful sentence absolutely perverted through 
an inaccuracy of this kind. In the words 
rendered Hatred and Harvest, the two syno- 
nymes of and or s hard and s soft, are 
indiscriminately used by Europeans in their 
Arabic conversations, a circumstance sufficient 
to do away the force and meaning of many a 
sentence. 

The poetry as well as prose of the Arabians 
is well known, and has been so often discussed 
by learned men, that it would be irrelevant 
here to expatiate on the subject ; but as the 
following description of the noblest passion of 
the human breast cannot but be interesting to 
the generality of readers, and, without any ex- 
ception, to the fair sex, I will transcribe it. 

" Love (C^dxM) beginneth in contempla- 
tion, passeth to meditation ; hence proceeds 
desire ; then the spark bursts forth into a flame, 
the head swims, the body wastes, and the soul 
turns giddy. If we look on the bright side of 
love, we must acknowledge that it has at least 
one advantage ; it annihilates pride and immo- 
derate self-love ; true love, w r hose aim is the 



364 ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



happiness and equality of the beloved object, 
being incompatible with those feelings. 

" Lust is so different from true love 
and so far from a perfection, that it is always 
a species of punishment sent by God, because 
man has abandoned the path of his pure love." 

In their epistolary writing, the Arabs have 
generally a regular and particular style, begin- 
ing and ending all their letters with the name 
of God, symbolically, because God is the be- 
ginning and end of all things. The following 
short specimen will illustrate this : 

Translation of a letter written in the Korannick 
Arabic by Seedy Soliman ben Muhammed 
ben Israael, Sultan of Marocco, to his Bashaw 
of Suse, &c. &c. 
" Praise be to the only God ! for there is neither 
power, nor strength, without the great and 
eternal God." 

L S. 

Cdntaining the Emperor's name and 
titles, as Soliman ben Muhamed 
ben Abdallah, &c. &c. 

u Our servant, Alkaid Abdelmelk ben Behie 
Mulud, God assist, and peace be with thee, 
and the mercy and grace of God be upon thee ! 

" We command thee forthwith to procure 
and send to our exalted presence every English- 
man that has been wrecked on the coast of 
Wedinoon, and to -forward them hither without 
delay, and diligently to succour and attend to 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



3&5 



them, and may the eye of God be upon 
thee ! d 

" 26th of the (lunar) month Saffer, year of the 
Hejra 1221. (May, 1806.)" 

The accuracy of punctuation in the Arabic 
language is a matter that ought to be strictly 
attended to. 

The foregoing observations will serve to 
prove the insufficiency of a knowledge of this 
language, as professed or studied in Great 
Britain when unaccompanied with a practical 
knowledge. These obseryations may apply 
equally to the Persian language. e 

If the present ardour for discovery in Africa 
be persevered in, the learned world may expect, 
in the course of a few years, to receive his- 
tories and other works of Greek and Roman 

d When they write to any other but Muhamedans, they 
never salute them with the words, " Peace be with thee," 
but substitute — t; Peace be to those who follow the path of 
the true God," Salem ala min itaba el Uda. 

c " One of the objects 1 had in view in coming to Europe, 
was to instruct young Englishmen in the Persian language. 
I however met with so little encouragement from persons in 
authority, that I entirely relinquished the plan. I instructed, 
however, (as I could not refuse the recommendations that 

were brought to me,) an amiable young man, Mr. S -n s 

and thanks be to God. my efforts were crowned with suc- 
cess ! and that he, having escaped ihe instructions of self- 
taught masters, has acquired such a knowledge of the prin- 
ciples of that language, and to correct an idea of its idiom 
and pronunciation, that I have no doubt, after a few years' 
residence in India, he will attain to such a degree of excel- 
lence, as has not yet been acquired by any other English- 
man." Vide Travels of Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, vol. i, p. 200. 



566 ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE, 



authors, which were translated into the Arabic 
language, when Arabian literature was in its 
zenith, and have ever since been confined to 
some private libraries in the cities of the interior 
of Africa, and in Arabia. 

Having said thus much with regard to the 
Arabic of the western Arabs, which, with little 
variation, is spoken throughout all the finest 
districts of North Africa, I shall proceed to say 
a few 1 words respecting the other languages 
spoken north of Sahara : these are the Berebber 
and its dialects^ viz. the Zayan and Girwan, and 
Ait Amor ; the Shelluh of Suse and South 
Atlas, all which, though latterly supposed by 
some learned men to be the same, differ in 
many respects ; any one possessing a know- 
ledge of the Berebber language might, with 
little difficulty, make himself understood by the 
Zayan of Atlas, the Girwan, or the Ait Amor ; 
but the Shelluh is a different language, and each 
so different from the Arabic, that there is not 
the smallest resemblance, as the following speci- 
men will demonstrate : 



BEREBBER. 


SHELLUH. 


ARABIC. 


ENGLISH. 


Tumtoot 


Tayelt 


Ishira 


A girl 


Ajurode 


Ayel 


Ishire 


A boy 


Askan 


Tarousa 


Hajar 


A thing 


Aram 


Algrom 


Jimmel 


Camel 


Tamtute 


Tamraut 


Murrah 


A woman 


Ishiar 


Issemg'h 


L'Abd 


A slave 


Aouli 


Izimer 


Kibsh 


A sheep 


Taddert 


Tikimie 


Dar 


House 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



367 



BEREBBER. 


SHELLUH. 


ARABIC. 


ENGLISH. 


Ikshuden 


Asroen 


La wad 


Wood 


Eekeel 


Akfai 


Hellib 


Milk 


Tifihie 


Uksume 


El Ham 


Meat 


Buelkiel 


Amur an 


Helloof 


A hog 


Abreede 


Agares 


Trek 


A road 


Bishee 


Fikihie 


Ara 


Give me 


Adude 


Asht 


Agi 


Come 


Alkam 


Aftooh 


Cire 


Go 


Kaym 


Gauze 


Jils 


Sit down 


Imile 


Imeek 


Scrire 


Little 



Specimen of the Difference between the Arabic 
and Shelluh Languages. 

SHELLUH. ARABIC. ENGLISH. 

Is sin Tamazirkt Wash katarf Do you under- 
Shelluh stand Shelluh? 
Uree sin Man arf huh I do not under- 

stand it. 

Matshrult Kif enta How are you ? 

Is tekeete Ma- Wash gite min Are you come 
rokshe Marockshe fromMarocco? 

Egan ras Miliah Good 

Maigan Ala'sh Wherefore ? 

Misimmink As'mek What is your 

name ? 

Mensh kat dirk Shall an dik How much have 

you got ? 

Tasardunt Borella A mule 

Romi Romi An European 

Takannarit Nasarani A Christian 



368 ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



SHELLUH. 


ARABIC. 


ENGLISH. 


Romi 


Kaffer 


An infidel 


Misem Bebans 


Ashkune mula Who is the 






owner? 


Is'tkit Tegri- 


Washjite min 


Are you come 


welt 


Tegriwelt 


from Cape 






Ossem ? 


Auweetelmkelli Jib Liftor 


Bringthedinner 


Efoulkie 


Meziana 


Handsome 


Ayeese 


El aoud 


A horse 


Tikelline 


El Baid 


Eggs 


Amuran 


Helloof 


Hog 


Tayuh 


Tatta 


Camelion 


Tasamumiat 


Adda 


Green lizard 


Tenawine 


Sfune 


Ships. 



Marmol says, the Shelluhs and Berebbers 
write and speak one language, called Killem 
Abimalick f ; but the foregoing specimen, the 
accuracy of which may be depended on, clearly 
proves this assertion to be erroneous, as well 
as that of many moderns who have formed 
their opinion, in all probability, on the 
above authority. Now, although the Shelluh 
and Berebber languages are so totally dissimilar, 
that there is not one word in the foregoing 
vocabulary which resembles its correspond- 
ing word in the other language, yet, from 
the prejudice which MannoPs authority has 

f Killera Abimalick signifies the Language of Abimalick ; 
this is evidently an error of Marmol, the Shelluh language 
is denominated Amazirk ; the Berebber Language is deno- 
minated Killem Brebber, 



OX THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



established, it will still be difficult, perhaps, 
to persuade the learned that such an author 
could be mistaken on such a subject. My 
account therefore must remain for a future age 
to determine upon, when the languages of 
Africa shall be better known than they are at 
present ; for it is not a few travellers occa- 
sionally sent out on a limited plan, that can 
ascertain facts, the attainment of which requires 
a long residence, and familiar intercourse with 
the natives. Marmol had also misled the 
world, in saying that they write a different 
language ; the fact is, that when they write any 
thing of consequence, it is in the Arabic ; but 
any trifling subject is written in the Berebber 
words, though in the Arabic character. If they 
had any peculiar character in the time of 
Marmol, they have none now ; for I have con- 
versed with hundreds of them, as well as with 
the Sheiluhs, and have had them staying at my 
house for a considerable time together, but 
never could learn from any, that a character 
different from the Arabic had ever been in use 
among them. 

In addition to these languages, there is 
another spoken at the Oasis of Ammon, or 
Siwah, called in Arahie(^UM -Jc,M) El Wall 

El Grarbie, which appears to be a mixture of 
Berebber and Shelluh, as will appear from the 
list of Siwahan words given by Mr. Horneman s , 

8 In reading Mr. William Marsden's observations on the 
language of Siwah, at the end of Horneman's Journal, in 



370 



UN THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



in his Journal, page 19, part of which I have 
here transcribed, to show the similitude be- 
tween those two languages, whereby it will 
appear that the language of Siwah and that of 
the Shelluhs of South Atlas are one and the 
same language. 



ENGLISH. 

Sun 

Head 

Camel 

Sheep 

Cow 

Mountain 
Have you 
a horse? 
Milk 
Bread 
Dates 



SIWAHAN. 



SHELLUH. 



Itfuckt 

Achfe 

Lgum 

Jelibb 

Tfunest 

Iddrarn 



Atfuct 

Akfie 

Arume 

Jelibb 

Tafunest 

Xddra* 



Goreck Ackmar 
Achi 



Tagor 
Tena 



Is derk Achmar ? 1 
Akfie 
Tagora k 
Tenia (sing.) 
Tena (plural.) 
South of the Desert we find other languages 
spoken by the blacks ; and are told by Arabs, 
who have frequently performed the journey 
from Jinnie to Cairo, and the Red Sea, that 
thirty-three different Negro languages are met 



page 190, I perceive that the short vocabulary inserted 
corresponds with a vocabulary of the Shelluh language, 
which I presented to that gentleman some years past. 

b Plural Iddrarn. 1 Or, Is derk ayeese ? 

* This is applied to bread when baked in a pan, or over 
the embers of charcoal, or other fire; but when baked in 
an oven it is called Agarom (g guttural.) 



OK THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



with in the course of that route, but that the 
Arabic is spoken by the inteliigent part of the 
people, and the Muhamedan religion is known 
and followed by many ; their writings are uni- 
formly in Arabic. 

It may not be improper in this place, seeing 
the many errors and mutilated translations 
which appear from time to time, of Arabic, 
Turkish and Persian papers, to give a list of the 
Muhamedan moons or lunar months, used by 
all those nations, which begin with the first ap- 
pearance of the new moon, that is, the day fol- 
lowing, or sometimes two days after the change, 
and continue till they see the next new moon ; 
these have been mutilated to such a degree in 
all our English translations, that I shall give 
them, in the original Arabic character, and as 
they ought to be spelt and pronounced in the 
English character, as a clue whereby to cal- 
culate the correspondence between our year 
and theirs. They divide the year into 12 
months, which contain 29 or 30 days, according 
as they see the new moon ; the first day of the 
month Muharam is termed & as 

Elame, i. e. the beginning of the year. 

As we are more used to the Asiatic mode of 
punctuation, that will be observed in these 
words. 



Muharam 
Asaffer 



^ 4 



ON THE ARABIC LANGUAGE. 



Arabea Atthenie 



Arabia Elule 



sty?. 



Jumad Elule 



Jumad Athenie 



Rajeb 




Shaban 



Ramadan 
Shuai 



Du'elkada 



Du Elhajah 



The first of Muharram, year of the Hejra 
1221, answers to the 19th March of the Chris- 
tian sera, 1806. 

Among the various languages spoken south 
of the Sahara, we have already observed 
that there are thirty-three different ones be- 
tween the Western Ocean and the Red Sea, 
following the shores of the Nile El Abeed, or 
Niger : among all these nations and empires, a 
man practically acquainted with the Arabic, 
may always make himself understood, and 
indeed, it is the language most requisite to 
be known for every traveller in these extensive 
regions. 

The Mandinga is spoken from the banks of 
the Senegal, where that river takes a northerly 
course from the Jibel Kumera to the kingdom 



ON THE AFRICAN LANGUAGES. 373 

of Bambarra ; the Wangareen tongue is a dif- 
ferent one; and the Housonians speak a lan- 
guage differing again from that. 

Specimen of the difference between the Arabic and 
Mandinga language ; the xvords of the latter 
extracted from the vocabularies of Seedi Muha- 
med ben Amer Sudani. 

ENGLISH. MANDINGA. ARABIC. 



One 


Kalen 


Wahud 


Two 


Fula 


Thanine 


Three 


Seba 


Thalata 


Four 


Nani 


Arba 


Five 


Lulu 


Kumsa 


Six 


Uruh 


Setta 


Seven 


Urn'klu 


Sebba 


Eight 


Saae 


Timinia 


Nine 


Kanunt^e 


Taseud 


Ten 


Dan 


Ashra 


Eleven 


Dan kalen 


Ahud ash 


Twelve 


Dan fula 


Atenashe 


Thirteen 


Dan seba 


Teltashe 


Nineteen 


Dan kanartee Tasatash 


Twenty 


Mulu 


Ashreen 


Thirty 


Mulu nintau Thalateen 


Forty 


Mulu fula 


Arba'in 


Fifty 


Mulu fula 


Kumseen 




neentan 




Sixty 


Mulu sebaa 


Setteen 


Seventy 


Mulu sebaa Seba'in 




nintan 





374 ON THE AFRICAN LANGUAGES. 



ENGLISH. 


MANDINGA. 


ARABIC. 


Eighty 


Mulu nani 


T'ammana'een 


Ninety 


Mulu nani 


Tasa'een 




neentaan 




One hundred 


Kemi 


Mia 


One thousand 


Uli 


Elf 


This 


Neen 


Hadda 


That 


Wale em 


Hadduk 


Great 


Bawa 


Kabeer 


Little 


Nadeen 


Sereer 


Handsome 


Nimawa 


Zin 


Ugly 


Nuta 


Uksheen (k^uttur.) 


White 


Kie 


Bead 


Black 


Feen 


Khal 


Red 


Williamma 


Hummer 


How do you 


Nimbana 


Kif-enta 


do? 


mcuntania 




Well 


Kantee 


Ala- k here 


Not well 


Moon kanti 


Murrede 


What do you 


Ala feta ma- 


Ash-bright 


want 


tume 




Sit down 


Siduma 


Jiis 


Get up 


Ounilee 


Node 


Sour 


Akkuinula 


Hamd 


Sweet 


Timiata 


Helluh 


True 


Aituliala 


Hack 


False 


Funiala 


Kadube 


Good 


Abatee 


Miliah 


Bad 


Minbatee 


Kubiah 


A witch 


Bua 


Sahar 


A lion 


Jatta 


Sebaa 



ON THE AFRICAN LANGUAGES. 



ENGLISH. 


MANDINGA. 


ARABIC. 


An elephant 


Sam ma 


El fele 


A hyaena 


Salua 


Dubbah 


A wild boar 


Siwa 


El kunjer 


A water horse Mali 


Aoud d'Elma 


A horse 


Suhuwa 


Aoud 


A 1 

A camel 


"XT' ' 

Kumamun 


Jimmel 


A clog 


Waliee 


Killeb 


TT.l 1 T/ •n_ T- 

Hel el Killeb 


T T _ 1 ITT 11 

Hel Waliee 


Hel El Killeb 


or the dog- 






faced race 






A _ 1 

A gazel 


Tankeen 


Gazel (g guttural) 


A cat 


"XT* 1 

Niankune 


El mish 


A L 

A goat 


Baa 


El maize 


A sheep 


17 1 

Kurenale 


Kibsh 


A bull 


XT* 1 • 

Nisakia 


Toor 


A serpent 


oaa 


Hensh 


A 1 * 

A camehon 


TV if* 

Mineer 


Tatta 


An ape 


Jvu nee 


Lzatute 


A fowl or 






chicken 


Susee 


Djez 


All 

A duck 


TP* 

Beruee 


El Weese 


A nsn 


xlmu 


El hout 


Butter 


Tulu 


Zibda 


Milk 


Nunn 


El hellib 


Bread 


Mengu 


El khubs(k guttur.) 


Corn 


Nieu 


Zra 


Wine 


Tangee 


Kummer (k guttur. ) 


Honey 


Alee 


Asel 


Sugar 


Tobabualee 


Sukar 


Salt 


Kuee 


MiPh 


Ambergris 


Anber 


Anber 



376 ON THE AFRICAN LANGUAGES. 



ENGLISH. 


MANDINGA. 


ARABIC. 


Brass 


Tass 


Tass 


Silver 


Kudee 


Nukra 


Gold-dust 


Teber 


Tiber 


Pewter 


Tass ki 


Kusdeer 


A bow 


Kula 


El kos 


An arrow 


Binia 


Zerag 


A knife 


Muru 


Jenui 


A. OUvv/11 


Kulia 


jVIocerfa 


A bed 


El an i ii 

±. -4 \ til lill 


El fprraslip 

A il 1 Vl i IX uliv 


A lamp 


El kundeel 


El kundeel 


A housp 

-A- Ji v/UOv 


Su 


Ed dar 

AJV.1 V_i. C4 1 


A room 


Bune 


El beet 


A light-hole 


Jinnee 


Reehaha 


or window 






A door 


Daa 


Beb 


A town 


Kin da 


Midina 


8 moke 


Sezee 


Tkan (k guttural) 


Heat 


Eandia 


Skanna (k guttural) 


Cold 


Nini 


Berd 


Sea 


Bedu baha 


Bahar 


R .iver 


Bedu 


Wed 


A rock 


Berri 


Jerf 


Sand 


Kinnikanui 


Ruminel 


The earth 

A. il V' V, *%. A 111 


Binku 


Dunia 


jVfoimtain 


Iv iianku 

-1 111 C%- 1 1 IV Cl 


Jibbel 


[stand 


Juchiii 


Dzeeni 


Rain 


Sain i i k m 1 m or j n 


Shta 


God 


Allah 


Allah 


Father 


Fa 


Ba 


Mother 


Ba 


Ma 


Hell 


Jahenmmi 


Jehennume 



ON THE AFRICAN LANGUAGES. 3/7 



ENGLISH. 


MANDINGA. 


ARABIC. 


A man 


Kia 


Rajil 


A woman 


Musa 


Murrah 


A sister 


Bum musa 


Kat (k guttural) 


A brother 


Bum kia 


Ka 


The devil 


Buhau 


Iblis 


A white man 


Tebabu 


Rajil biad 


A singer 


Jalikea 


Runai (r guttural) 


A singing 


Jalimusa 


Runaiah (r gut- 


woman 




tural) 


A slave 


June 


Abeed 


A servant 


Bettela 


Mutalem 



Having now given some account of the lan- 
guages of Africa, we shall proceed to animadvert 
on the similitude of language and customs be- 
tween the Shelluhs of Atlas and the original 
inhabitants of the Canary Islands. The words 
between inverted commas, are quotations from 
Glasse's History of the Discovery and Conquest 
of the Canary Islands. 

" The inhabitants of Lancerotta and Fuerta- 
ventura are social and cheerful like the 
Shelluhs of Atlas ; " they are fond of singing 
and dancing ; their music is vocal, accom- 
panied with a clapping of hands, and beating 
with their feet the Shelluhs resemble them 
in all these respects ; " Their houses are built 
of stone, without cement ; the entrance is 
narrow, so that but one person can enter at a 
time." 

The houses of the Shelluhs are sometimes 



578 ON THE AFRICAN LANGUAGES. 

built without cement, but always with stone ; 
the doors and entrances are low and small, so 
that one person only can enter. 

" In their temples they offered to their God 
milk and butter." 

Among the Shelluhs milk and butter are 
given as presents to princes and great men ; the 
milk being an emblem of good will and candour. 

" When they were sick (which seldom hap- 
pened) they cured themselves with the herbs 
which grew in the country ; and when they 
had acute pains, they scarified the part affected 
with sharp stones, and burned it with fire, and 
then anointed it with goat's butter. Earthen 
vessels of this goat's butter were found interred 
in the ground, having been put there by the 
women, who were the makers, and took that 
method of preparing it for medicine." 

The custom of the Shelluhs on such occa- 
sions is exactly similar ; the butter which they 
use is old, and is buried under ground many 
years in (bukul) earthen pots, and is called 
hudra ; it is a general medicine, and is said to 
possess a remarkably penetrating quality. 

" They grind their barley in a hand-mill, 
made of two stones, being similar to those used 
in some remote parts of Europe. 

In Suse, among the Shelluhs, they grind 
their corn in the same way, and barley is the 
principal food. 

" Their breeches are short, leaving the knees 
bare ;" so are those worn by the Shelluhs. 



ON THE AFRICAN LANGUAGES. S79 



" Their common food was barley meal roasted 
and mixed with goat's milk and butter, and this 
dish they call Asamotan." 

This is the common food of the Shelluhs 
of Atlas, and they call it by a similar name, 
Azamitta. 

The opinion of the author of the History and 
Conquest of the Canary Islands, is, that the 
inhabitants came originally from Mauritania, 
and this he founds on the resemblance of names 
of places in Africa and in the islands : " for," 
says he, " Telde \ which is the name of the 
oldest habitation in Canaria, Orotaba, and 
Tegesta, are all names which we find given to 
places in Mauritania and in Mount Atlas. It 
is to be supposed that Canaria, Fuertaventura, 
and Lancerotta, were peopled by the Alarbes ra , 
who are the nation most esteemed in Bar- 
baryj for the natives of those islands named 
milk Aho, and barley Temecin, which are the 
names that are given to those things in the 
language of the Alarbes of Barbary." He 
adds, that — 

" Among the books of a library that was in 
the cathedral of St. Anna in Canaria, there was 
found one so disfigured, that it wanted both 
the beginning and the end : it treated of the 
Romans, and gave an account, that when 

1 T*lde or Tildie is a place in the Atlas mountains, three 
miles east of Agadeer ; the castle is in ruins. 

m The Alarbes, this is the name that the inhabitants of 
Lower Suse and Sahara have. El Arab or Arabs, 



380 ON THE SHELLUH AND 

Africa was a Roman province, the natives of 
Mauritania rebelled and killed their presidents 
and governors, upon which the senate, resolving 
to punish and make a severe example of the 
rebels, sent a powerful army into Mauritania, 
which vanquished and reduced them again to 
obedience. Soon after the ringleaders of the 
rebellion were put to death, and the tongues of 
the common people, together with those of their 
wives and children, were cut out, and then 
they were all put aboard vessels with some 
grain and cattle, and transported to the Canary 
islands." n 

The following vocabulary will show the simi- 
larity of language between the natives of Canaria 
and the Shelluhs (inhabitants of the Atlas 
mountains south of Marocco). 



SHELLUH OR ENGLISH. 
LYBIAN TONGUE. 



LANCEROTTA AND 
FUERTA VENTURA 
DIALECT. 

Temasin 
Tezzezes 
Taginaste 
Tahuyan 

Ahemon 



Tumzeen 
Tezezreat 
Taginast 
Tahuyat 

Amen 



Barley 
Sticks 

A palm-tree 
A blanket, cover- 
ing, or petticoat. 
Water 



n One Thomas Nicols, who lived seTen years in the 
Canary Islands, and wrote a history of them, says, that the 
best account he could get of the origin of the natives, was, 
that they were exiles from Africa, banished thence by the 
Romans, who cut out their tongues for blaspheming 
their gods. 



LANCEROTTA LANGUAGES, 



581 



LANCEROTTA AND 
FUERT A VENTURA 
DIALECT. 



SHELLUH OR 
LYB1AN TONGUE. 



ENGLISH. 



Faycag Faquair Priest or lawyer 

Acoran M'koorn God 

Almogaren Talmogaren Temples 

Tamoyanteen Tigameen Houses 

Tawacen Tamouren 

Archormase Akermuse 
Azamittan 



Azamotan 

Tigot 

Tigotan 

Thener 

Adeyhaman 

Ahico 

Kabeheira 

Ahoren 

Ara 
Ana 
Tagarer 



Tigot 

Tigotan 

Athraar 

Douwaman 

Tahayk 

Kabeera 



Hogs 
Green %s 
Barley meal fried 

in oil 
Heaven 
The Heavens 
A mountain 
A hollow valley 
A hayk, or coarse 

garment 
A head man or a 

powerful 
Barley meal 

roasted 
A goat 
A sheep 

A place of justice 



Benehoare, the name of the natives of Palma. 
Beni Hoarie, a tribe of Arabs in Suse between 
Agadeer and Terodant. 



For further particulars, see Glasse's History of the 
Canary Islands, 4to. page 174-. 



TITLES 

OF 

THE EMPEROR OF MAROCCO, 
STYLE OF ADDRESSING HIM, 

AND 

SPECIMENS OF EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE. 



THE TITLES OF THE EMPEROR 

ARE 

Servant of God. 

Commander, Captain, or Leader of the (Mume- 
neen) Faithful [i. e. in Muhamed], upheld by the 
Grace of God. 

Prince of Hassenee. Ever supported by God. 

Sultan of Fas, of Maroksh [Marocco], of Suse, 
and of Draha, and of Tqfilelt and Tuat, together 
with all the kabyles [tribes] of the West, and of 
the Berebbers of Atlas, kc. 

The Sultan calls his soldiers (kettejfee) " my 
shoulders or support, or strength his subjects 
he calls his sons (yooledee), and himself the father 
of his people* 

N. B. The Hejra, or Muhamedan asra began 
A. D. 622. The Muhamedan years are lunar, 
S3 of which are about 32 solar years. 



88$ 



THE STYLE 

USED BY MUSELMEN, 
IN ADDRESSING THE EMPEROR, 

IS AS follows: 

u Sultan of exalted dignity, whom God pre- 
serve. May the Almighty protect that royal 
purity, and bestow happiness, increase of wealth, 
and prosperity on the nation of believers 
[i. e. in Muhamed], whose welfare and power 
is attributed entirely to the favour and benevo- 
lence of the Exalted God." 

The Sultan is head of the ecclesiastical, mili- 
tary, and civil law, and is universally considered 
by his subjects God's Vicegerent, or Lieutenant 
on Earth. All letters written to his Imperial 
Majesty, are begun with the praise of God, 
and with the acknowledgment, (in opposition to 
idolatry,) that there is neither beginning nor 
power but what proceeds from God, the 
eternal God, (La hule u la kua ela billa, Allah 
el adeem.) 



384 



SPECIMENS 

OF 

MUHAMEDAN EPISTOLARY CORRESPONDENCE. 



The following Letters are literal translations from the original 
Arabic, and, although not of great importance, yet it is 
some satisfaction to the enquiring mind, to observe the 
various modes of address, and to note the style of Epis- 
tolary Correspondence practised by the Muhamedans, 
which is so different from that which is used among 
European and other nations. 



Letter L 

From Muley Ismael, Emperor of Marocco, to Captain 
Kirke at Tangier Ambassador from King Charles the 
Second, dated 1th Du Elkadah, in the 1093^ Year of 
the Hejra, (corresponding to the 27 th October, 
A. D. 1682.) 

Praise be to God, the most High alone ! and 
the blessing of God be upon those who are for 
his prophet. 

From the shereef a , the servant of God, who 
putteth his trust in God, the commander of the 

* Shereef is a general term in the Arabic for a prince, king, 
or emperor, signifying royal blood. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



385 



faithful, who is courageous in the way of the 
omniscient God. 

L. S. 

Ismael son of a shereef ; God illumine 
and preserve him. 

God assist his commanders, and give victory 
to his forces and armies, Amen ! To the cap- 
tain of Tangier, Kirke, peace be to those who 
follow the right way b ; this by way of preface. 
Your letter came to the lofty place of our 
residence, and we understand what your dis- 
course contained. As for the asking a cessation 
of arms by sea ; know, that it was not treated of 
between us till this present time. Neither did 
we make truce with you concerning any thing 
but Tangier alone. When you came to our 
illustrious house, we treated with you about 
that matter for four years, and if you had 
sojourned there yourself, no Muselman would 
ever have gone into that town hostilely against 
you, but merely as a peaceable merchant. 

As to a cessation of arms by sea, it was not 
negociated by us, neither did we discourse about 
it ; but, when you desired it of us, we wrote to 
your Master in England, saying, " If you desire 

b This is a sentence which frequently occurs in the Koran, 
but when used in epistolary correspondence with Christians 
(for it is never used by Muhamedans between themselves), 
it bears the appearance of a salutation, but the allusion is to 
Muhamedans, who these people think are the only men who 
follow the true path or right way ; it is, however, a com- 
pliment to all who think themselves in the right way. 



386 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



a cessation of arms by sea, and are willing to re- 
ceive a firm peace from us, send us two under- 
standing men, of the chief of the Divan of 
England, by whom the peace of all the Christians 
here may be confirmed ; and, when they shall 
arrive at the lofty place of our residence, and 
sit before us, whatsoever they shall hear from us, 
by way of agreement, shall be acceded to ! And 
we have given you security, at sea, for four 
months, viz. from the time we sent you our letter 
to Tangier, till the day that there shall come an 
answer from your Master, and until the arrival 
of the two ambassadors aforementioned, after 
the aforesaid manner. As for those men who in 
thy letter thou didst say were taken at sea : I 
neither know nor have heard any thing of them. 
Your discourse about that matter having been 
with Aly ben Abdallah, and he administered jus- 
tice (to you) upon the Muselmen who had taken 
these men prisoners for the sake of him, for 
whom you made your complaint to us ; and he 
returned the Christians to you, and imprisoned 
the sailors for capturing them. Now, if there 
shall happen to be a peace between me and you 
at sea, as there is for four years by land, through 
your mediation, and by reason of your coming 
to us, I will hang them, and blot out their foot- 
steps, and be revenged on them with the most 
severe revenge. 

Our servant Muhamed ben Hadu Aater, who 
came from your presence, told us that lions are 
scarce in your country, and that they are in high 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



387 



estimation with you, When your servant came 
to us, he found we had two small young lions, 
wherefore by him we send them to you. And 
know, that we have received by our servants 
from your Master, three coach-horses, now a 
coach requires four horses to draw it, wherefore 
you must needs send us another good one of the 
same kind and size, that they may draw the 
coach with four horses. Oblige us in this by all 
means. Farewell : we depend upon it. 

Written ?th of the sacred month Du El 
Kadah y in the year of the Hejra, ninety-three 
and a thousand, (A. D. 1682.) 

Letter II. 

From the same Muley Ismael to Sir Cloudesly Shovel, on 
board the Charles Galley, off Salee, written Aug. 26. 
A, D. 1684, year of the Hejra 1095. 

L. S. 

I, servant of God, and Emperor of 
Marocco and King of Maurita- 
nia, whom God preserve in all 
his undertakings, &c. 

I salute you and the rest of the captains. 

As for the captives you have taken, they belong 
to several places, and are not all my subjects ; 
and what I do is out of charity, as they are Mu- 
hamedans, being forced to go to sea for want of 
maintenance. As for those that are my soldiers, 
they go to sea to fight and to die in my quarrels \ 



388 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



but, those Moors that you have taken, are incon- 
siderable and of no account. 

Henceforward I shall have ships as big as 
yours, if not bigger, hoping to take some of your 
ships and captains, and cruise for you in your 
English seas, as you do for us in these. 

I have written letters to the King of England, 
in which are kind expressions : And when you 
had Tangier, all things were given to you as 
you wanted, and all done out of kindness ; and 
now that you have left Tangier for the Moors, 
whatever His Majesty of Great Britain wants, 
either by sea or by land, it shall be granted, so 
that there be a peace betwixt the two crowns ; 
for which I pass my w r ord and faith. 

Now, / have written several letters to his Ma- 
jesty of Great Britain, to which I have received as 
yet no answer ; but, when it (the answer) reaches 
my hands, I hope there will be a good accom- 
modation between us. 

You have taken several of our ships and de- 
stroyed others, and you are cruising on our coast, 
which is not the way to make a good peace, 
neither the actions of honesty in you. 

God be praised that you have quitted Tangier 
and left it to us, to whom it did belong : from 
henceforward we shall keep it well supplied with 
stores, for it is the best port of our dominions. 

As for the captives you have taken, you may 
do as you please with them, heaving them into 
the sea, or otherwise destroying them. The 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



389 



English merchants that are here resident, shall 
satisfy all their debts, which being done, none 
of them shall remain in my country. 

Letter III. 

Captain Shovel's Answer. 

May it please Your Majesty, 

We, the King of England's captains, return 
Your Majesty humble thanks for your kind 
wishes to us. Your Majesty by this may know, 
that we have received your letter, and by it we 
understand, that Your Majesty is informed that 
most of these people that are taken are not your 
subjects. We perceive by this, as well as in 
other things, how grossly Your Majesty has 
been deceived by those people you trust ; else, 
we doubt not, but that, long before this, our 
Master, whom God preserve, and Your Majesty 
had accommodated all differences, and we should 
have had a firm peace. 

Of those fifty-three slaves that are here, (ex- 
cepting two or three,) they are all Moors of their 
own country, as they themselves can make 
appear ; but, if they are to be disowned because 
they are poor, the Lord help them ! ! Your 
Majesty tells us, that we may throw them over- 
board, if we please : all this we very well know ; 
but we are Christians, and they bear the form 
of men, which is reason enough for us not 
to do so. 



390 



TRANSLATIONS OV 



As to Tangier, our Master kept it twenty-one 
years ; and the world is sensible, that in spite of 
all your force, he could, if he had pleased, have 
continued to keep it to the world's end ; for, he 
levelled your walls, filled up your harbour, and 
demolished your houses, in the face of your 
Alkaid and his army; and when he had done, he 
left your c barren country (without the loss of a 
man) for your own people to starve in : but our 
departure from thence, long before this, w r e doubt 
not, but you have repented of. When you tell 
us of those mighty ships Your Majesty intends 
to build and send to our coast, you must excuse 
us if we think ourselves the better judges ; for 
we know, as to shipping, what you are able 
to do. 

If you think fit to redeem those slaves at 100 
dollars a-piece, they are at Your Majesty's ser- 
vice, and the rest shall be sent to you ; or, if 
you think fit to give us so many English in ex- 
change, we shall be well satisfied ; but we think 
you will hardly comply with that, for the poorest 
slave that ever our Master redeemed out of your 
country, cost him 200 dollars ; and some of these 
five times that sum, for he freely extended his 
charity to all, and never forgets his people because 
they are poor. 

c The gallant and magnanimous captain was better ac- 
quainted with the coast than with the country, which is any 
thing but barren. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



S91 



It is great wonder to us, that you should tax us 
with unjust proceedings in taking your ships in 
time of truce, when Your Majesty may remember 
that, during the time your ambassador was in 
England, your corsairs took about twenty sail of 
my Master's ships ; and this very year, you have 
fitted out all the force in your kingdom to sea, 
who have taken several of our ships, and at the 
same time pretend to a truce for peace ! But 
some of your ships, for their unjust dealings, 
have had their reward, and the rest, when they 
shall come to sea, we doubt not but God Almighty 
will put them into our hands. 

If Your Majesty think fit to send proposals to 
my Master concerning peace, I shall take care 
for the speedy and safe conveyance of the same. 
I desire Your Majesty's speedy answer ; for I do 
not intend to stay long before Salee. 

Wishing Your Majesty long life and happi- 
ness, I subscribe myself, Your Majesty's 

Most obedient and humble Servant, 

Cloudesly Shovel. 

Sept. 1684 A.D. 



392 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



Letter IV. 

A literal Translation of Muley Ismael, Emperor of Mo- 
rocco's Letter to Queen Anne, in the year of our Loi d 
1710, extracted from the Harl. MSS. 1525. 

L. S. 

In the name of the most 
merciful God. 

He that depends upon God goeth straight to 
the right way. From the servant of God, the 
Emperor of the believers, who maketh war for 
the cause of the Lord of both worlds, Ismael ben 
Assherif AlHassanee to the Queen of the English, 
nay of England, and the mistress of the great 
parliament thereof, happiness to every one that 
followeth the right way, and believes in God, 
and is so directed. 

This premised, we have heard from more than 
one of the comers and goers from thy country, 
that thou hast seized our Armenian servant, a 
person of great esteem. We sent him to thee, 
to compose a difference between us and thee, 
and we wrote to thee concerning him, that thou 
shouldst use him well. Then, after this, we 
heard that thou didst set him at liberty : And 
wherefore didst thou seize him ? Hath he ex- 
ceeded any covenant, or hath he made any cove- 
nant with thee and broke it? We should not 
have sent him to thee, but on account of our 
knowledge and assurance of his understanding 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



393 



and integrity ; and when he resolved upon his 
journey into your country, we gave him direc- 
tions to dispatch some of our affairs. Wherefore 
we wrote unto thee concerning him, and said, 
If thou hast any necessity or business with us, 
he will convey it to us from thee. And we said 
unto thee, Speak with him, and whatsoever thou 
sayest unto him, he will communicate unto us, 
without addition or diminution. 

As for what our servant Alkaid Ali ben Ab- 

dallah did to , the Christian, thy servant, 

by God we know nothing of it, nor gave him 
any permission as to any thing that passed be- 
tween them ; and, at the instant that we heard 
that he had taken thy man, we commanded him 
to set him at liberty forthwith ; and since then 
we have never manifested any favour to Alkaid 
Ali, nor was our mind ever right towards him 
afterwards till he died. 

Our Christian servant, the merchant, Bayly, 
told us, that thou hadst a mind to an ostrich, 
and we gave him two, a male and a female, 
which shall come to you, if God will. And, lb ! 
a secretary, our servant, (who is much esteemed 
by us,) when he cometh he shall bring what 
goods he hath collected with him, if it please 
God. And we are in expectation of thy mes- 
senger the ambassador; and if he comes, he 
shall see nothing from us but what is fair ; and 
we will deliver to him the Christians, and do 
what he pleases, if God will. Wherefore be kind 
to our servant, with respect. 



394 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



Written the first of the Glorious Ramadan, in 
the year of the Hejra 1125 (corresponding with 
A. D. 1710). 

Letter V. 

Translation of an Arabic Letter- from the Saltan Seedi 
Muhamed d ben Abdallah, Emperor of Marocco, to the 
European Consuls resident at Tangier, delivered to each 
of them, by the Bashaw of the province of El Grarb, on 
1st day of June, 1788, correspondiag with the year of 
the Hejra, 1202. 

L. S. 

Mohamed ben Abdallah, ben 
Ismael, Sultan ben, Sultan, 
&c. 

In the name of God, for there is no power or 
strength but from God. 

To all the Consuls at Tangier. 
Peace (be) to those who follow the right path. 

By this you will learn that we are in peace 
and friendship with all the Christian powers until 
the month of May of the next year, (of the Hejra, 
1203,) and such nations as shall then be desirous 
to continue in peace and friendship with us, are 
to write a letter to us, when the month of May 
comes, to inform us if they are in peace and 
friendship with us, then we shall be the same 
with them; but, if any Christian nation desire 
to go to war with us, they will let us know before 

d Father of the present Sultan Soliman ben Muhamed. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



395 



the month above-mentioned ; and we trust God 
will keep us in his protection against them ; and 
thus I have said all I had to say. 

2d day of Shaban, year of the Hejra 1202, 
(corresponding with 7th May, 1788.) 

Letter VI. 

Letter from Muley Soliman ben Mukamed, Emperor of 
Marocco, Sfc. Sfc. to His Majesty George III. literally 
translated from the original Arabic, by James Grey 
Jackson, at the request of the Right Hon. Spencer Per- 
ceval, after lying in the Secretary of State's Office 
here for several months, and being then sent ineffectually 
to the Universities for translation, and after various en- 
quiries had been made on behalf of the Emperor, to the 
Governor of Gibraltar, the Bashaw of El Garb, and 
the Alkaid of Tangier, to asce?iain if any answer had 
been returned to his Imperial Majesty. 

In the name of God! the all-merciful and 
commiserating God, on whom is our account, 
and we acknowledge his support; for there is 
neither beginning nor power but that which pro- 
ceeds from God, the High Eternal God. 

From the servant of God, the commander of 
the faithful [in Muhamed] upheld and supported 
by the Grace of God. 

Soliman the son of Muhamed, the son of Ab- 
dallah, the son of Ismael, Prince of [the house or 
dynasty of Hassan] e who was ever upheld by the 

c The words between brackets are not in the original, but 
implied. 



396 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



power of God, Sultan of Fas and Marocco, and 
Suse, and Draha, and Tafilelt, and Tuat, to- 
gether with all the territories of the West. 

L. S. 

Soliman, son of Mohamed, son 
Abdallah, God illumine and sup- 
port him ! 

To our dearly beloved and cherished, exalted 
by the power of God, the Sultan f George the 
Third, Sultan of the territories of the United 
Kingdom of Great Britain, Ireland, Duke of 
Mecklenburg Strelitz, Prince, descended from 
the dynasty of the Sultans of Rome and Pales- 
tine, &c. 

This premised, we inform you, that we make 
diligent inquiry about you, desiring heartily that 
you may be at all times surrounded by health 
and prosperity. We wish you to increase in 
friendship with us, that our alliance may be more 
strongly cemented than heretofore, even stronger 
than it was in the days of our ancestors, whom 
God guard and protect. 

Now therefore we make known to you, that 
your physician, Doctor Buffe, has been in our 
royal presence, [which is] exalted by the bounty 
of God, and we have been well pleased with his 
medical knowledge and diligent attention, and 
moreover with the relief he has given to us. 

We have therefore to entreat of you to give 

This perhaps is the only letter extant, wherein a Musel- 
man Prince gives the title of ^Sultan to a Christian king. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



397 



him your royal order to return to Gibraltar, in 
our neighbourhood, well provided with all good 
and necessary medicines ; that he, residing at 
Gibraltar, may be ready to attend quickly our 
royal presence, whenever we may be in need of 
his [medical] assistance. We trust you will re- 
turn him without procrastination to our throne, 
seeing that he has been of essential service to us. 

We recommend you to exalt Dr. BufFe, in your 
favour and esteem on our account, and we will 
always be your allies and friends. May you ever 
be well and in prosperity 1 Peace be with you, 
4th of the month Jumad El Lule in the year [of 
the Hejra] 1221, (corresponding with 5th July, 
1806, A. D.) 

Letter VII. 

In Muhamedan countries, an insolvent man 
continues liable to his creditors till the day of 
his death, unless the debt is discharged ; but he 
can claim by Jaw his liberation from prison, on 
making oath, and bringing proof of his insol- 
vency : but then if he succeed afterwards and 
become possessed of property, he is compelled 
to pay the debts formerly contracted ; so that an 
European should be cautious how he contracts 
debts with the Moors, lest the misfortunes that 
commerce is liable to should oblige him to 
remain all his life in the country. A letter, 
similar to the following, should be procured by 
every European, about to quit the country, to 



398 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



prevent the extortion of the alkaid, who might, 
as has often happened before, throw impediments 
in the way for the purpose of extorting presents, 
&c. 

Translation of a Firman of Departure^ literally trans- 
lated from the Original Arabic, by James Grey Jackson, 

L. S. 

Soliman ben Muhamed, ben 
Abdallah, ben Ismael Sultan, 
&c. 

Praise be to God alone. 

Our servants El Hage Mohamed o Bryhim, 
and Seid Mohamed Bel Akkia, peace and the 
mercy of God be with you ! This premised, I 
command you to suffer the Christian merchant, 
Jackson, to embark for his own country, if it 
appears to you that no one pursues him in law 
[for debt,] as I wrote to you on this subject in 
my last letter : if no one claims of him any right 
by law, allow him to go, and do not impede him. 8 
God protect you, and peace be with you. 3d 
day of Saffer, the good year 1220 of the Hejra, 
(A. C. 1805.) 

Letter VIII. 
As a specimen of the lofty style of writing so 
much in use among the Eastern authors, I shall 

* This repetition of the principal subject in Arabic cor- 
respondence, is a mode of impressing on the mind more for- 
cibly, the subject intended to be impressed, and is commonly 
practised by the best Arabian, and African writers ; it also 
frequently occurs in the inspired writings. See Psalms 
lxxv. 1. Ixxvii. 1. &c. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



399 



add the summons which Hulacu the Tartar 
conqueror of the East, (who took Bagdad, and 
entirely subverted the government of the Sara- 
cens,) sent to Al Malek Annasar, sultan of Aleppo, 
in the year of the Hejra 657, (of Christ 1259.) 

Let Al Malek Annasar know, that we sat down 
before Bagdad in the 655th year (of the Hejra,) 
and took it by the sword of the most high God : 
and we brought the master of it before us, and 
demanded two things of him ; to which he, not 
answering, brought deserved punishment upon 
himself. As it is written in your Koran, " God 
doth not change the condition of a people, till their 
own minds are changed" He took care of his 
wealth, and fate brought him to what he is come 
to. He chose to exchange precious lives for 
pieces of money made of vile metal ; which is 
plainly the same that God says They found 
[the reward of] what they had done present with 
them. h For we have attained by the power of 
God, what we desired ; and by the help of the 
most high God we shall increase. Nor is there 
any doubt of our being the army of God upon 
his earth. He created us, and gave us power 
over every one upon whom his anger rests. 
Wherefore, let what is past be to you an exam- 
ple, and what we have mentioned a warning. 
Fortifications are nothing in our hands, nor doth 

h A quotation from the Koran. The Tartar was a deist; 
and quotes the Koran in derision. 



400 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



the joining of battle avail you any thing ; nor 
will your intreaties be heard or regarded. Take 
warning therefore by others, and surrender en- 
tirely to us, before the veil be taken off, and 
[the punishment of] sin light upon you. For we 
shall have no mercy upon him that complains, 
nor be moved by him that weeps. We have 
wasted countries, we have destroyed men, we 
have made children orphans, and the land deso- 
late. It is your business to run away ; ours to 
pursue ; nor can you escape our swords, nor fly 
from our arrows. Our horses are racers ; our 
arrows strike home ; our swords pierce like 
lightning ; our fortifications are like mountains, 
and our numbers like the sand. Whosoever sur- 
renders comes off safe : whosoever is for war, re- 
pents it. If you will obey our command, and 
come to our terms, your interest and ours shall 
be the same ; but if you be refractory and per- 
sist in your error, blame not us, but yourselves. 
God is against you, ye wicked wretches : look 
out for something to screen you under your 
miseries, and find somebody to bear you com- 
pany in your affliction. We have given you fair 
warning, and fair warning is fair play. You have 
eaten things forbidden \ you have been perfi- 
dious in your treaties. You have introduced new 
heresies, and thought it a gallant thing to com- 
mit sodomy. Prepare yourselves therefore for 

' The Muhamedans, whose religion is a compound of Ju- 
daism and Christianity, have borrowed many customs from 
either, they abstain like the Jews from swine's flesh. &c. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



401 



scorn and contempt. Now you will find what 
you have done ; for they that have done amiss, 
will now find their state changed. You take it 
for granted, that we are infidels. We take it 
for granted, that you are villains; and He by whose 
hand all things are disposed and determined, 
hath given us the dominion over you. The 
greatest man you have is despicable among us ; 
and what you call rich, is a beggar. We govern 
the world from east to west, and whosoever is 
worth any thing is our prey ; and we take every 
ship by force. Weigh therefore what is fit to be 
done, and return us a speedy answer, before 
infidelity 1 shall have kindled its fire, and scat- 
tered its sparks among you, and destroy you all 
from off the face of the earth. We have awak- 
ened you by sending to you : make haste with 
an answer, lest punishment come upon you una- 
wares." 

1 As the Muhamedans charge every nation that doth not 
believe Muhamed to have been a prophet with infidelity, so 
the Tartar (who was a Deist) returns it upon them. 



402 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



Letter IX. 

Translation of a Letter from the Emperor Muley Yezzid, 
to Webster Blount, Esq. Consul General to the Empire 
of Marocco, from their High Mightinesses the States- 
General, of the Seven United Provinces. Written soon 
after the Emperor's Proclamation, and previous to the 
Negociation for the opening of the Port of Agadcer, to 
Dutch Commerce. 

" Praise be to God alone ; for there is nei- 
ther beginning nor power without God. 

L. S. 

Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan 
ben Sultan, (i. e. Emperor 
and Son of an Emperor.) 

" To the Consul Blount. Peace be with those 
who follow the right way, or the way of the true 
God : and this being premised, know that I have 
received your letter, and that we are with you, 
(the Dutch nation,) in peace and amity and good 
faith, and peace be with you. 22 Ramadan, 
year of the Hejra 1204, (A. C. 1792.)" 

Translated literally by the Author, from the 
original Arabic in his possession. 

Letter X. 

Translation of a Letter from the Emptor Yezzid, to the 
Governor of Mogodor, Aumer be?i Daudy, to give the 
Port of Agadeer to the Dutch, and to send there the 
Merchants of that Nation. 

" Praise be to God alone ; for there is nei- 
ther beginning nor power without God, 
the eternal God. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



403 



L. S. 

Yezzid ben Muhamed, Sultan 
ben Sultan. 

" Ouu servant (or agent) Alkaid Aumer ben 
Daudy, peace be unto you, with the mercy and 
blessing of God : this premised, I command that 
all the duties you have collected be sent to me 
speedily by my brother 1 Muley Soliman, who will 
(berik) discharge you by receipt for every thing you 
deliver to him, for he is our representative. We 
are preparing to go to the siege of Ceuta, with 
the acquiescence of the High God, by whose 
power we hope to enter it, and take it. And 
we command you to send the Alkaid M'saud El 
Hayanie to my port of Agadeer, with all things 
necessary for his journey, assisting him with 
every possible succour, and send with him twenty 
Benianters m , who must be sailors skilful in the 
management of boats ; and the Christian mer- 
chants of the Dutch nation will go to Agadeer, 
and establish their houses there ; for I have given 
that port to the Dutch to trade there : and send 
with them Talb Aumer Busedra, and the eye of 
God be upon you, and peace be with you. 

1 The duties were at this time collected in kind ; viz. one 
tenth of every thing imported from Europe : and the present 
Emperor Muly Soliman was deputed to convey them to the 
camp before Ceuta, to his brother, the EmperorMuley Yezzid, 
whose army was besieging that fortress. 

m Benianters, are a kabyle of Shelluhs of Suse, who are 
employed to work, and row the boats, and land the goods at 
Mogodor. 



404 



TRANSLATIONS OF 



Seventh day of Arrabea Ellule, year (Hejra) 
1205. Q 

" Be vigilant with respect to the matter of the 
establishment of Agacleer, and of M'saud El 
Hayanie." ° 

Translated by the Author, from the original 
Arabic in his possession. 

Letter XI. 

Epistolary Diction, used, by the Muhamedans of Africa, in 
their Correspondence with all their Friends who are not 
of the Muhamedan Faith. 

" Praise be to God alone; for there is nei- 
ther beginning nor strength without 
God, the eternal God. 

cc From the servant of the great God, El Hage 
Abdrahaman El Fellely, to my friend Consul 
Jackson^ peace be to those who follow the right 
way, or who pursue the right path ; and then, O 
my friend, I have received your letter, and I 
have taken good notice of its contents, &c. &c." 

The letter, after explaining matters of busi- 
ness, concludes thus : — 

" Do not leave me without news from you; 
and peace be with you, and peace from me 
to our friend L'hage Muhamed Bu Zeyd; 
and peace from me to Seed Muham'd bel Has- 
sen, and to the Fakeer Seed Abdallah, and 
praise be to God I am very well, and prosper- 

a Corresponding with A. C. 1793. 

* The Emperors of Marocco, and the Arabian writers in ge- 
neral thus repeat the principal subject of a letter or discourse, 
to impress it more forcibly on the mind. 



ARABIC LETTERS. 



405 



©us. Written 15th day of Shaban, year of the 
Hejra 1209, (1797, A. C.)" 

The style in which letters are addressed is ge- 
nerally as follows : — 

" This shall arrive, God willing, to the hands 
of Consul Jackson, at Agadeer. May God pros- 
per it." 

Letter XII. 

Translation of a Letterfro?n the Sultan, Secdi Midiamed 
Emperor of Marocco, to the Governor of Mogodor. 

" Praise be to God aione. 
w 1 order my servant Alkaid Muhamed ben 
Amran, to deliver the treasure and the merchan- 
dise to the Christian merchants at Mogodor, 
which is in the possession of the Jews, Haim 
Miram, and Meemon ben Isaac Corcos, and 
others of the Jews, friends of the Christian mer- 
chants. God assist you, and peace be with you. 
53d of the month Jumad Ellule, year of the 
Hejra 1203. 

" By order of the Sultan, empowered by 
God. Written by Talb El Huderanie," 

The courier who receives the letter is ordered 
by the minister whom to deliver it to. It is then 
inclosed in a blank leaf or sheet of paper, with- 
out any address, and not sealed. It is presumed, 
that' the courier or messenger will not dare to 
open it, or discover the contents to any one ; 
such a breach of confidence might cost him his 
head, if discovered. 



406 



MODERN ARABIC LANGUAGE 



Doubts having been made in the Daily Papers* 
concerning the accuracy of the two following 
Translations of the Shereef Ibrahim's account 
of Mungo Park's Death ; the following Observ- 
ations, by the Author, are laid before the 
Public in elucidation of those Translations, 

The following is a copy of a letter, supposed 
to be a description of Mungo Park's death % 
brought to England from Ashantee in Africa, by 
Mr. Bowdich \ and that gentleman assured me, 
about six months after his arrival in England, 
and a few days previous to the publication of his 
interesting account of a mission to Ashantee, 
that he had by every means in his power endea- 
voured, but ineffectually, to get this manuscript 
decyphered and translated into English ; that he 
had sent it to several persons, who had retained 
it in their hands a considerable time, but had 
returned it without a decypher, or even a com- 
plete translation* When delivered into my 
hands, I transmitted him a decypher, and a trans* 
lation immediately. The following is my trans- 
lation, which, in* that gentleman's account of 
Ashantee, is coupled with another translation, 
not perspicuous, but unintelligible , for which see 
Bowdich's " Account of a Mission to Ashantee," 
Appendix, No. 2. 

The original Arabic document, of which I have 
given a decypher in the work before mentioned, 



LITTLE KNOWN IN ENGLAND. 407 

is, (for the information of gentlemen desirous of 
referring to the same,) deposited in the British 
Museum. There are also, in the same work on 
Ashantee, several papers decyphered by me, of 
certain routes in Africa, Now I think it expe- 
dient here, to declare to the public, that when- 
ever the British Government, the Court of Ad- 
miralty, or private individuals, have stood in 
need of translations, and decyphers from the 
Arabic, they have invariably found it expedient, 
ultimately, to apply to me for the same, after 
having, however, endeavoured ineffectually to 
procure their information at the Universities, 
the Post Office, and elsewhere : but as this 
declaration may appear to many incredible, I 
will mention three instances in elucidation of this 
my assertion, which, as they are all on record, 
will place this fact beyond doubt. 

1st. A vessel under Marocco colours, was, 
during last war, taken by a British cruiser, and 
sent or brought into Plymouth, or other port, 
in England. The captain and the ship were de- 
tained a considerable time here ; the former, at 
length, whose patience became exhausted, ex- 
postulated at his detention, and insisted on 
being released, if no interpreter in this com- 
mercial nation could be found competent to 
translate his passport. Mr. Slade, an eminent 
proctor in Doctors' Commons, then applied to 
me, after a detention of, I believe, two months, 
and I translated the passport. Mr, Slade very 
liberallv told me, that whatever I chose to 



408 



MODERN ARABIC LANGUAGE 



charge for this service, which he had sought in 
vain to accomplish, should be gratefully paid. I 
charged five guineas - 9 and it was instantly paid. 
The passport consisted of two lines and a half. 
This was in the Court of Admiralty. Mr. Slade, 
who is an honourable and respectable man, will 
of course not hesitate to corroborate the accu- 
racy of this statement. 

2d. A letter was written by the present Sultan 
Soliman, emperor of Marocco, &c. to our late re- 
vered sovereign, George III., in a more courteous 
style than is usual for Muhamedan potentates 
to write to Christian kings ; with liberal offers 
on the part of the Sultan, courting an augment- 
ation of friendly intercourse, &c. This letter 
(contrary to the usual courtesy of European 
courts) was neglected some months, no answer 
being returned to it. It was sent to the Uni- 
versities for translation, but ineffectually ; then 
to the Post Office ; and, at the expiration of 
some months, it was accidentally transmitted to 
me, through the hands of the Right Honourable 
Spencer Perceval, at that time Chancellor of 
the Exchequer, and I delivered, at the request 
of that gentleman, a translation of it in English, 
This letter was ten or fifteen times as long as 
the passport before mentioned, and I charged 
thirty pounds for the service. But the Trea- 
sury thought ten pounds a sufficient remuner- 
ation, which I accepted ! ! 

This service was rendered to the British go-. 



LITTLE KNOWN IN ENGLAND. iO { J 

vernment, and I have letters and documents in 
my possession, which corroborate this fact. 

3d. Was the translation of an Arabic manu- 
script, respecting Mungo Park's death ; delivered 
gratuitously to a private individual, viz. Mr. 
Bowdich, before mentioned ; to satisfy the 
curiosity of my country, whose interest was ex- 
cited respecting the fate of that enterprising and 
indefatigable African traveller. Mr. Bowdich, 
who is an honourable man, will undoubtedly con- 
firm the truth of this statement, to any gentle- 
man who may be desirous of ascertaining the 
fact. 

The Shereef Ibrahim 9 s account of Mungo Park's 
Death, 

(the author's translation.) 

" In the name of God, the Merciful and Cle- 
ment ! 

" This narrative proceeds from the territory in 
Husa, called Eeaurie or Yeaurie. We observed 
an extraordinary event or circumstance, but we 
neither saw nor heard of the river which is 
called Kude. And as we were sitting we heard 
the voice of children ; and we saw a vessel, the 
like to which in size we never saw before. And 
we saw the king of Eeaurie send cattle and 
sheep, and a variety of vegetables, in great 
abundance. And there were two men and one 
woman, and two slaves j and they tied them in 
the vessel. There were also in the vessel two 



410 



NARRATIVE OF THE 



white men, of the race called Christians : and 
the Sultan of Eeaurie called aloud to them, to 
come out of the vessel, but they would not. 
They proceeded to the country of Busa, which 
is greater than that of the Sultan of Eeaurie. 
And as they were sitting in the vessel, they 
hung p , or were stopped by the cape, or head- 
land of Kude. 

"And the people of the sultan of Busa called to 
them, and poured their arms into the vessel ; and 
the vessel reached the head-land or cliff, and be- 
came attached or fixed to the head of the moun- 
tain or projection in the river, and could not 
pass it. Then the men and women of Busa col- 
lected themselves hostilely together, with arms 
of all descriptions ; and the vessel being unable 
to clear the head-land, the man in the vessel 
killed his wife, and threw the whole of her pro- 
perty into the river ; they then threw them- 
selves into the river through fear. The news of 
this occurrence was then conveyed to the Sultan 
Wawee, until it reached, by water, the territory 
of Kanjee, in the country of the Sultan Wawee. 
And we buried it in its earth ; and one of them 
we saw not at all in the water. And God 
knows the truth of this report from the mouth 
of the Shereef Ibrahim. The end." 

OBSERVATION. 

After giving the foregoing translation, it be- 
p Probably by an impetuous current. 



DEATH OF MUNGO PARK. 



411 



hoves me to inform the intelligent reader, that 
I wrote a letter to Mr. Bowdich, communicating 
to him my observations on several notes, trans- 
mitted to him by Sk William Ouseley, on the 
manuscript of which the foregoing is a transla- 
tion, in which I informed him, that in decypher- 
ing the Arabic manuscript, I had observed the 
Oriental or Asiatic punctuation ; knowing that 
Mr. Bulmer had not letters with the occi- 
dental punctuation. Several observations I made, 
respecting the Arabic manuscripts which could 
not be elucidated here without the Arabic 
type. I shall, therefore, omit them, and con- 
clude by observing, that in translating this 
manuscript, two gentlemen (Arabic scholars) 
had translated akkadan jie Asfeena, " two 
maids in the ship which words I have 
translated, " were tied or bound in the vessel 
the word akkadan. being the preterite of the 
verb akkad, to bind. I was not surprised to hear 
that one translator had made such an interpret- 
ation ; knowing that incredible errors have 
been frequently committed by professed Pro- 
fessors in the Hebrew language as well as in the 
Arabic. But when I heard, as I did, that ano- 
ther Arabic scholar had given a similar interpret- 
ation, I must confess that I was not a little sur- 
prised. However, a circumstance soon after 
unravelled the mystery ; for 1 discovered that 
these two gentlemen, at a loss no doubt to ascer- 
tain the meaning of akkadan, had referred to 



NARRATIVE OF THE 



Richardson's Arabic Dictionary, wherein the 
word is quoted to signify, in a figurative sense, 
a virgin. In a figurative sense ! In translating 
an ill-written, illiterate, and ungrammatical ma- 
nuscript, these two translators had had recourse 
to rhetorical figures, and actually substituted a 
trope for what was a verb, generally used in the 
West, signifying "to bind!" 

As it has been asserted in the following extract, 
that my translation of the foregoing manuscript 
differs only in a trifling degree from that of 
Mr. Abraham Salame, I here insert my answer to 
that assertion, leaving the intelligent reader to 
determine, whether they are alike or materially 
different. 

Extract from The Times, 3d May, 1819. 

" MUNGO PARK. 

" The death of this enterprising traveller is 
now placed beyond any doubt. Many accounts 
of it have been received, and although varying 
as to the circumstances attending it, yet all 
agreeing that it has taken place. One statement 
was given to Mr. Bowdich, while on his mission 
to the King of the Ashantees, in 1817, by a 
Moor, who said that he was an eye-witness ; and 
the same gentleman procured an Arabic manu- 
script declaratory of Mr. Park's death. This 
manuscript has been deposited with the African 
Association, formed for the purpose of extend- 



DEATH OF MUNGO PARK. 



413 



ing researches in that part of the world. Two 
translations have been made of this curious do- 
cument ; one by Mr. Saiame, an Egyptian, who 
accompanied Viscount Exmouth in his attack on 
Algiers, as interpreter ; and the other by Mr. 
Jackson, formerly consul at one of the Barbary 
courts. The following is Mr. Salame's transla- 
tion, from which, however, the one by Mr. 
Jackson only differs in a trifling degree. The 
words in italics have been inserted by Mr. Sa- 
lame, in order to render the reading more per- 
fect, and are not in the original 

" 'A literal Translation of a Declaration written in 
a C07Tupted Arabic, from the Town of Yaud, 
in the Interior of Africa. 

" 6 In the name of God, the merciful and the 
munificent. This declaration is issued from the 
town called Yaud, in the county of Kossa. We 
(the writer) do witness the following case (state- 
ment.) We never saw, nor heard of the sea 
(river) called Koodd ; but we sat to hear (under- 
stood) the voice (report) of some persons, say- 
ing, ' We saw a ship, equal to her we never 
saw before ; and the King of Yaud had sent 
plenty of every kind of food, with cows and 
sheep ; there were two men, one woman, two 
male slaves, and two maids in the ship ; the two 
white men were derived from the race (sect) of 
Nassri (Christ, or Christianity.) The King of 



414 



NARRATIVE OF THE 



Yaud asked them to come out to him (to land) $ 
but they refused coming out (landing) ; and 
they went to the King of the country of Bassa, 
who is greater than the King of Yaud; and 
"while they were sitting in the ship, and gaining a 
position (rounding) over the Cape of Koodd, and 
"were in society with the people of the King of 
Bassa, the ship reached (struck) a head of moun- 
tain, which took (destroyed) her away, and the 
men and women of Bassa all together, with 
every kind of arms (goods) ; and the ship could 
find no way to avoid the mountain ; and the 
man who was in the ship, killed his wife, and 
threw all his property into the sea (river), and 
then they threw themselves also, from fear. 
Afterwards they took one out of the water till 
the news reached the town of Kanji, the country 
of the King of Wawi ; and the King of Wawi 
heard of it ; he buried him in his earth (grave), 
and the other we have not seen ; perhaps he is 
in the bottom of the water. And God knows 
best.' Authentic from the mouth of Sherif 
Abraham. — Finis.' 

" In addition to the foregoing, another corro- 
boration has been obtained. Lieut. Col. Fitz- 
clarence, when on his voyage down the Medi- 
terranean on board the Tagus frigate, Capt. 
Dundas, with despatches from the Marquis of 
Hastings, learnt from the governor to the two 
sons of the Emperor of Marocco, who had been 
on a pilgrimage to Mecca, and were then re- 
turning home, that he (Hadjee Tahib) had 



DEATH OF MUNGO PARK. 



415 



been at Timbuctoo in 1807, and had heard of 
two xvhile men, who came from the sea, having 
been near that place the year before ; and that 
they sold beads, and had no money to purchase 
grain. This person added, that they went 
down the Nile to the eastward, and that general 
report stated that they died of the climate. 
There can be little doubt but the two white men 
here alluded to were Mr. Park and his compa- 
nion, Lieutenant Martyn, who were at Sand- 
sanding in Nov. 1805, and could, in the follow- 
ing year, have been near Timbuctoo. Sand- 
sanding is the place from whence the last dis- 
patches were dated by Mr. Park ; and Amadi 
Fatouma, who was his guide afterwards, was 
sent to learn his fate, and returned with an 
account of Mr. Park being drowned. The 
statement of this person was, however, of such 
a nature as to excite suspicions of its correct- 
ness ; and hopes were entertained that Mr. 
Park had not met with such an untimely fate. 
Fourteen years have now almost elapsed since 
the date of his last dispatches ; and this cir- 
cumstance is of itself sufficient to demonstrate, 
that he is to be added to the catalogue of 
those who have perished in their attempts to 
explore the interior of Africa. — Englishman." 

TO THE EDITOR OF THE BRITISH STATESMAN. 

Sir ; — Seeing in your Paper of yesterday a 
translation of the Arabic manuscript respecting 



416 OBSERVATIONS ON THE NARRATIVE 



Mr. Mungo Park's death, which is deposited 
with the African Association, and deciphered 
and transcribed by me in Mr. Bowdich's account 
of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480, and perceiv- 
ing that the errors in that translation are thus 
propagated to the public through the medium 
of the London Papers, which although per- 
haps of little consequence to the general 
reader, yet, as they are of importance to the 
critic, and to the investigator of African affairs, 
I shall 1 take the liberty of offering a few observ- 
ations on the subject. 

The following passage, in the translation 
above alluded to, might have passed the public 
eye without animadversion as the language of a 
foreigner, (as we have understood Mr. Salame 
to be,) but from the intelligent Editor of a 
London daily paper, might we not have expected 
more correct phraseology ? q 

" The ship reached a head of mountain which 
took her away, and the men and women of 
Bassa, altogether with every kind of arms, and 
the ship could find no way to avoid the moun- 
tain." 

1 have no hesitation in declaring to be incor- 
rect the first two lines of Mr. Abraham Salame's 

* "The phrases thus objected to by our learned Corre- 
spondent, were contained in the translations furnished to us 
in common with other papers, and not the language of the 
Editor. Indeed, this appears to be admitted by our Corre- 
spondent himself, in the apparently very just comments he 
has thus favoured us with. — Editor." 



OF THE DEATH OF MUNGO PARK. 417 

translation, inserted in your paper of yesterday, 
which runs thus : — * 

u This declaration is issued from the town 
called Yaud, in the country o/^Kossa." 

My translation of this passage, inserted in 
Mr. Bowdich's account of a Mission to Ashan- 
tee, page 478, runs thus : — 

" This narrative proceeds from the territory in 
Hausa called Ecauree." 

No one, I presume, will say that there is not 
a manifest difference between these two transla- 
tions — between " the toxvn called Yaud, in the 
country of Kossa" and the territory of Hausa, 
called Ecauree." 

One of these translations must therefore ne- 
cessarily be incorrect. The Arabic manuscript 
decyphered and transcribed by me, is inserted 
in Mr. Bowdich's work, page 480. Those who 
may feel interested in ascertaining which is the 
correct and precise translation, are requested to 
refer to the transcript above-mentioned, or to 
the original manuscript, in the possession of the 
African Association. As for myself, I presume 
I am right ; and would submit the decision to 
the judgment of either Sir Gore Ousley, or to 
that of Sir William, or to the opinion of any 
Arabic scholar, to decide this question. 

If, Mr. Editor, you had an Arabic type, to 
save the trouble of referring to the original, I 
should ask the Arabic scholar if it were possible 
for any man to translate the following passage 
in that document : — " Bled Hausa eekalu Ecu- 



418 



DEATH OF MUNGO PARK. 



ree" — kc the town called Yaud, in the country 
of Cossa whilst I should maintain that it 
would admit of no other translation but the fol- 
lowing, viz. — " the country of Hausa, called 
Ecauree." 

If you think this elucidation of the transla- 
tion of the Manuscript of Park's death suf- 
ficiently interesting to the public to deserve a 
place in your intelligent paper, it is very much 
at your service. 

From, Sir, 
Your most obedient servant, 

JAMES GREY JACKSON, 

Professor of African Languages, and formerly British 
Consul and Agent for Holland, Sweden, and Den- 
mark, at Santa Cruz, South Barbary. * 

Circus, Minoriti, 
May 4. 1819. 



* See British Statesman, May 6th, 1819. 



419 



LETTERS RESPECTING AFRICA, 

FROM 

J. G. JACKSON AN& OTHERS. 



On the Plague: 
To JAMES WILLIS, Esq. late Consul to Senegambia. 

London, October 30. 1804. 

My dear Sir, 
Your letter reached my hands yesterday ; but 
I am afraid I shall not be able to satisfy you in 
every enquiry which you have made relative to 
the plague in Barbary in 1799. I have, how- 
ever, no doubt but the plague which has pre- 
vailed in Spain has originated from it. Some of 
the following observations may probably be of 
service to you, 

It does not appear to be ascertained how the 
plague originated in Fas in the year 1799. Some 
persons have ascribed it to infected merchan- 
dise received at Fas from the East ; whilst others 
maintain that the locusts which had infested 
Western Barbary during seven years, destroying 
the crops, the vegetables, and every green thing, 
even to the bark of the trees, produced such a 
scarcity, that the poor could obtain scarcely 



LETTERS AND PAPERS 



any thing to eat but the locusts ; and living on 
them for several months, till a most abundant 
crop enabled them to satisfy the cravings of na- 
ture, they ate abundantly of the new corn, which 
producing a fever, brought on the contagion. At 
this time the small-pox pervaded the country, 
and was generally fatal. The small-pox is thought 
to be the forerunner of this species of contagion, 
as appears by an ancient Arabic manuscript, 
which gives a full account of the same disorder 
having carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants 
of West Barbary about four hundred years since ; 
but, however the dreadful epidemy originated, 
the leading features of the disorder were novel, 
and more dreadful than the common plague of 
Turkey, or that of Syria or Egypt, as the fol- 
lowing observations will demonstrate. 

In the month of April, 1799, a plague of the 
most dreadful kind manifested itself at the city of 
Old Fas, which soon after communicated itself 
to the new city. About this time the Emperor 
Muley Soliman ben Muhamed was preparing a 
numerous army, and was on the eve of depar- 
ture to visit his Southern dominions, and to take 
possession of the province of Abda, w 7 hich had 
not acknowledged him as Emperor, but was, as 
well as the port of Saffy, in a state of rebellion. 
The Emperor left Fas early in the summer, and 
proceeded to Sallee, Mazagan, and Saffee; thence 
to Marocco and Mogodor. Now the plague be- 
gan to kindle in all the Southern provinces, first 
carrying off one or two the first day, three or 
four the second day, six or eight the third day, 



ON AFRICA. 



421 



and increasing progressively till it amounted to 
a daily mortality of two in a hundred of the 
whole population ; continuing with unabated vio- 
lence, ten, fifteen, twenty days, being of longer 
duration in old than in new towns ; then dimi- 
nishing in a progressive proportion from one 
thousand a-day, to nine hundred, to eight hun- 
dred and so continuing to decrease till it dis- 
appeared. 

When it raged at the town of Mogodor, a small 
village (Deabet) situated two miles South-east of 
Mogodor remained uninfected, although the 
communication was open between these two 
places. On the thirty-fourth day after its first 
appearance at Mogodor, this village received the 
infection, where, after committing dreadful ha- 
vock among the human species for twenty-one 
days carried off one hundred persons out of one 
hundred and thirty-three, the population of the 
village before the plague visited it. After this, 
none died ; but those who were infected reco- 
vered, some losing the use of a leg, or an arm, 
or an eye. 

Many similar circumstances might be men- 
tioned relative to the numerous villages scattered 
about the extensive province of Haha, all which 
shared the like, or a worse fate. Travelling 
through this province after the plague had dis- 
appeared, I saw many ruins, which had been 
flourishing villages before the plague. Making 
enquiry concerning the population of these dis- 
mal remains of the pestilence, I was informed* 



LETTERS AND PAPEKS 



that one village contained six hundred inhabi- 
tants ; that only four had escaped. Others, 
which had contained four and five hundred, had 
left seven or eight to lament the calamities they 
had suffered. 

Whenever any families retired to the country, 
to avoid the infection ; on returning to town, 
when apparently all infection had disappeared, 
they were generally attacked, and died. The 
destruction of the human species in the pro- 
vince of Upper and Lower Suse was much greater 
than elsewhere. The capital city of this pro- 
vince (Tarodant) lost, when the infection was 
at its acme, about eight hundred each day ; the 
city of Marocco lost one thousand each day ; the 
cities of Old and New Fas from twelve to fifteen 
hundred each day ; insomuch, that, in these large 
towns, the mortality was such, that the living 
had not time to bury the dead : they were there- 
fore thrown altogether into large holes, which 
were covered over when full of dead bodies. 

Young and healthy robust persons were gene- 
rally attacked first ; then women and children ; 
lastly, thin, sickly, and old people. After the 
plague had totally subsided, we saw men, who had 
been common labourers, enjoying their thousands, 
and keeping horses, without knowing how to ride 
them* Provisions became extremely cheap, for 
the flocks and herds had been left in the fields, and 
had nobody now to own them. Day-labour in- 
creased enormously. Never was equality in the 
human species more evident than at this time. 



ON AFRICA. 



423 



When corn was to be ground, or bread made, both 
were done in the houses of the rich, and prepared 
by themselves ; for the very few poor people whom 
the plague had spared were insufficient for the 
wants of the affluent, and they were consequently 
obliged to work for themselves. The country 
being now depopulated, vast tribes of Arabs from 
the Desert poured into Suse and Dralia ; settling 
themselves on the river Draha and in Suse, and 
wherever they found little or no population. 

The symptoms of the disorder varied in dif- 
ferent patients ; in some it manifested itself by a 
sudden shivering, in others by delirium, sucr 
ceeded by a violent thirst. Cold water was 
drank eagerly by the imprudent, and generally 
proved fatal. Some had one, two, or three, some 
more biles, generally in the groin, under the 
arm, or near the breast ; some had more. Some 
had no biles, nor any outward disfigux^ation ; 
these were invariably carried off in less than 
twenty-four hours. I recommended Mr. Bald- 
win's remedy a , applied according to his direc- 
tions ; and I do not know one instance of its 
failing, when properly applied, and sufficiently 
persevered in. 

I have no doubt but the epidemy, which has 
been ravaging, Spain lately, is the same disorder 
with the one above described. We have been 
told that it was communicated originally to Spain 
by two infected persons, who went from Tan- 

a Of unction of the body with olive oil. 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



gier to Estapona, and eluded the vigilance of 
the guards. We have been assured that it was 
communicated by some persons infected, who 
landed in Spain from a vessel that had loaded 
produce at Laraich, in West Barbary. We have 
also been informed that a Spanish privateer, 
which had occasion to land its crew for water in 
some part of West Barbary, caught the infection, 
and afterwards went to Cadiz and communicated 
it to the town. 

James G. Jackson. 
Death qfMungo Park. 

May, 1812. 

The doubts which may have existed of the 
fate of this eminent man are now removed, by 
the certain accounts lately received from Goree, 
of his having perished, through the hostility of 
the natives, on one of the branches of the Niger. 
The particulars have been transmitted to Sir 
Joseph Banks, by Governor Maxwell, of Goree, 
who received them from Isaco b , a Moor, sent 
inland by the Governor, for the purpose of 
enquiry. In a letter to Mr. Dickson, of Covent- 
garden, brother-in-law to Mr. Park, Sir Joseph 
thus writes : — 

" I have read Isaco's translated journal ; by 
which it appears, that the numerous European 
retinue of Mungo Park quickly and miserably 

b Isaco was a Jew, not a Moor. — J. G. J. 



ON AFRICA. 



425 



died, leaving, at the last, only himself and a 
Mr. Martyn. Proceeding on their route, they 
stopped at a settlement, from which, according 
to custom, they sent a present to the chief whose 
territory they were next to pass. This present 
having been treacherously withheld, the chief 
considered it, in the travellers, as a designed 
injury and neglect. On their approaching, in a 
canoe, he assembled his people on a narrow 
channel of rocks c , and assailed them so violently 
with arrows, that some of the rowers were killed. 
This caused Mr. Park and Mr. Martyn to make 
an effort by swimming to reach the shore ; in 
which attempt they both were drowned. The 
canoe shortly afterwards sunk, and only one hired 
native escaped. Every appurtenance also of the 
travellers was lost or destroyed, except a sword- 
belt which had belonged to Mr. Martyn, and 
which Isaco redeemed, and brought with him 
to Goree." 

Death of Mr. Rontgen, in an Attempt to explore the 
Interior of Africa. 

May, 1812. 

The young German gentleman of the name of 
Rontgen, who left England about a twelve- 
month since for Africa, in order to prosecute 

c There is a remarkable confirmation of this quotation from 
Sir Joseph's letter in Mr. Jackson's translation of the Arabic 
manuscript of Mungo Park's death, for which see Bowdich's 
Account of a Mission to Ashantee, p. 480. ; also Annals of 
Oriental Literature, No. I. 



426 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



discoveries in the interior of that country, has, it 
is said, been murdered by the Arabs, before he 
had proceeded any great distance from Mogodor, 
where he spent some time perfecting himself in 
the Arabic language. He was a promising 
young man, and an enthusiast in the cause in 
which he was lost, and supposed to understand 
the Arabic language better than any European 
who ever before entered Africa. At an early 
age he formed the plan of going to that country, 
and gave up his connections and a competency 
in Germany, to prosecute his intentions. His 
father was a character well known in Europe, 
who raised himself from obscurity to the greatest 
celebrity by his talent for mechanics. He was 
at one time worth a million, but was ruined by 
the French revolution. 

The following Letter from James Willis, Esq. late Consul 
to Senigambia, is extracted from the Gentleman's Ma- 
gazine for May, 1812. 

COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE WITH AFRICA. 

May 5. 1812. 

At a time when our ancient rivals and enemies 
are exerting all their powers to destroy the Bri- 
tish commerce, and have nearly effected their 
gigantic schemes of cutting off all communication 
between Great Britain and the various ports, 
states, and kingdoms of Europe ; at such a time 
when we are in imminent danger of losing the 
markets of a quarter of the globe, it becomes 



ON AFRICA. 



427 



essentially important to discover other channels 
for our commerce, and other markets for our 
manufactures. 

In this point of view, the information lately 
communicated to the public by Mr. James Grey 
Jackson, in his " Travels in Africa," becomes 
highly interesting to the statesman as well as to 
the merchant. From the account which he has 
given of the city of Timbuctoo, and its commer- 
cial relations, there is great reason to conclude, 
that if we could find means to open and main- 
tain a safe and easy communication with that 
great emporium, and with the rich, fertile, and 
populous regions in its vicinity, we might acquire 
a market for our manufactures, that would in 
time compensate for the loss of that of Europe. 

In the warehouses of Timbuctoo, are accu- 
mulated the manufactures of India and of Europe; 
and from thence the immense population that 
dwells upon the banks of the Niger is supplied. 
There is no doubt that we could furnish the arti- 
cles they want, upon much lower terms than they 
can obtain them at present ; and, in return, we 
should furnish the best market they could have 
for their gold, ivory, gums, and other rich pro- 
ducts, and raw materials. 

Now, it certainly appears to me, and I think 
it must appear to every man who takes the trouble 
of investigating the subject, that, provided Go- 
vernment would give proper support to the enter- 
prise, this important communication might easily 
be established. For this purpose, nothing mora 



428 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



is necessary than to take a fortified station upon 
the African coast, somewhere about the %9th 
degree of north latitude, near the confines of the 
Morocco dominions, to serve as a safe magazine 
or emporium for merchandize. From this station 
it "would be easy to maintain a direct corre- 
spondence with the opulent merchants of Tim- 
buctoo ; regular caravans might be established 
to depart at fixed periods ; the protection of the 
Arabs can at all times be purchased at stipulated 
prices, which may be considered as premiums of 
insurance, or as a tax for convoy, and thus in a 
little time these caravans might carry out mer- 
chandize, to and from Timbuctoo, with as much 
regularity and safety, and with less expense, 
than our fleets convey our goods to and from 
the West Indies. 

The expense of such a fortified station as is 
here proposed, would be very moderate, in com- 
parison with the advantages it would produce ; 
and it would be easy to draw out a plan for it ; 
but I do not think it would be proper to go into 
a detail here, — " non est hie locus/ 9 

It has been well observed, that commerce is 
the key of Africa ; and I shall only add, that if 
the plan I have suggested were carried into exe- 
cution, these interesting regions of Africa, that 
have heretofore baffled the attempts of curiosity 
and enterprise, and remained for so many ages 
a " sealed book" to the inhabitants of Europe, 
would soon be explored and laid open. This is 
an object that cannot be indifferent to a prince, 



ON AFRICA. 



429 



who has so evidently evinced a desire to pa- 
tronise science, and who is undoubtedly desirous 
to encourage, to facilitate, and to increase, still 
further the vast geographical discoveries which 
have added such lustre to the reign of his august 
father. 

To return to Mr. Jackson's book. This work 
contains, besides the information that more di- 
rectly concerns the statesman and the merchant, 
much interesting matter for the natural and moral 
philosopher, as well as for the general reader. 
The author makes no pretension to fine writing ; 
Ins style is plain, unaffected, and perspicuous, 
and there is as much new, authentic, and im- 
portant matter in the book, as in the hands of the 
French writers of African travels, (Golberry, 
Vaillant, and Savary, for instance,) would have 
been spread over three times the space. Upon 
the whole, it is the most valuable work of the 
kind that has appeared for many years. I hope 
the author will reap the reward which his labours 
have so well deserved. 

James Willis. 

Of the Venomous Spider. — Charmers of Serpents. — Disease 
called Nyctalopia, 01* Night-blindness. — Remedy for 
Consumption in Africa. — WesternBranch qf the Nile, and 
Water Communication between Timbuctoo and Egypt* 
Sir, 

The venomous spider (Tendaraman). This 
beautiful reptile is somewhat similar to a hornet 
in size and colour, but of a rounder form ; its 



480 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



legs are about an inch long, black, and very 
strong ; it has two bright yellow lines, latitu- 
dinally crossing its back ; it forms its web octa- 
gonally between bushes, the diameter being two 
or three yards ; it places itself in the centre of 
its web, which is so fine, as to be almost invisible, 
and attaches to whatever may pass between 
those bushes. It is said to make always towards 
the head, before it inflicts its deadly wound. In 
the cork forests, the sportsman, eager in his pur- 
suit of game, frequently carries away on his gar- 
ments the tenderaman, whose bite is so poisonous, 
that the patient survives but a few hours. 

Charmers of serpents (Aisawie). — These Ais- 
ame have a considerable sanctuary at Fas. They 
go to Suse in large bodies about the month of July 
to collect serpents, which they pretend to render 
harmless by a certain form of words, incantation, 
or invocation to Seedy ben Aisah, their tutelary 
saint. They have an annual feast, at which time 
they dance and shake their heads quickly, during 
a certain period, till they become giddy, when 
they run about the towns frantic, attacking any 
person that may have a black or dark dress on ; 
they bite, scratch, and devour any thing that 
comes in their way. They will attack an un- 
jumma, or portable fire, and tear the lighted 
charcoal to pieces with their hands and mouths. 
I have seen them take the serpents, which they 
carry about, and devour them alive, the blood 
streaming down their clothes. The incredible 



ON AFRICA. 



481 



accounts of their feats would fill a volume ; the 
following observations may suffice to give the 
reader an idea of these extraordinary fanatics. 
The buska and the d el effah are enticed 
out of their holes by them ; they handle them 
with impunity, though their bite is ascer- 
tained to be mortal ; they put them into a cane 
basket, and throw it over their shoulders : these 
serpents they carry about the country, and 
exhibit them to the people. I have seen them 
play with them, and suffer them to twist round 
their bodies in all directions, without receiving 
any inj ury from them. I have often enquired how 
they managed to do this, but never could get any 
direct or satisfactory answer ; they assure you, 
however, that faith in their saint, and the power- 
ful influence of the name of the divinity, (Isim 
Allah,) enables them to work these miracles : they 
maintain themselves in a miserable way, by do- 
nations from the spectators before whom they 
exhibit. This art of fascinating serpents was 
known by the ancient Africans, as appears from 
the Marii and Psilii, who were Africans, and 
showed proofs of it at Rome. 

Bu Telleese (Nyctalopia.) — This ophthalmic 
disease is little known in the northern provinces ; 
but in Suse and Sahara it prevails. A defect of 
vision comes on at dusk, but without pain ; the 
patient is deprived of sight, so that he cannot see 

d For a description of these deadly serpents, see Jack- 
son's Account of Marocco, &e, chapter on Zoology. 



432 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



distinctly, even with the assistance of candles. 
During my residence at Agadeer, a cousin of 
mine was dreadfully afflicted with this trouble- 
some disease, losing his sight at evening, and con- 
tinuing in that state till the rising sun. A Deleim 
Arab, a famous physician, communicated to me 
a sovereign remedy, which being extremely sim- 
ple, I had not sufficient faith in his prescription 
to give it a trial, till reflecting that the simplicity 
of the remedy was such as to preclude the possi- 
bility of its being injurious, it was applied in- 
wardly ; and twelve hours afterwards, to my 
astonishment, the boy's eyes were perfectly well, 
and continued so during twenty-one days, when 
I again had recourse to the same remedy, and it 
effected a cure, on one administration, during 
thirty days, when it again attacked him ; the 
remedy was again applied with the same benefi- 
cial effect as before. 



Offer to discover the African Remedy for Nyctalopia, or 
Night Blindness, 

(to the editor of the literary panorama.) 

Sir, 

Having read your animadversions on the ad- 
ditional matter introduced in my second edition 
of an " Account of Marocco, Timbuctoo," &c. 
(see Literary Panorama for April last, p. 713.) 
wherein you conceive that I am reprehensible 



ON AFRICA. 



433 



for not having discovered publicly the remedy 
alluded to as an infallible cure to the Butellise or 
Nyctalopia, I should observe that I was not ap- 
prised, (till I read those animadversions,) that this 
was a disorder incident to the inhabitants in 
Europe, or that it affected our seamen on the 
Mediterranean station. But, if that be the case, 
and it should be found expedient and beneficial 
to the interests of Great Britain, that this remedy 
should be divulged for the alleviation of our me- 
ritorious seamen in His Majesty's service, I am 
willing to make the discovery to any respectable 
medical man who may be appointed by Govern- 
ment as physician or surgeon on the Mediter- 
ranean station. 

James G. Jackson. 

May 18. 1812. 

TO THE EDITOR OF THE LITERARY PANORAMA. 

Circus, Minories, June 21. 1815. 

Sir, 

I request you will contradict in your next 
publication the assertion of my decease, which is 
calculated to injure considerably my interests 
abroad as a merchant. (Vide your Review of 
Parke's Travels, page 377«) In answer to this 
unfounded information, which has been propa- 
gated in your review of last month, I have to 
acquaint you that I am not only in the land of 
the living, but in excellent health, and waiting 
to hear the testimony of some stranger or Eu- 



434 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



ropean traveller (since the Africans are not to 
be relied on), who shall establish the fact of the 
junction of the Nile of Sudan with that of 
Egypt ; or at least the approximation of these 
two mighty streams. And notwithstanding the 
insidious reflections and censures passed on the 
native Africans, from whom I gathered much 
of the information communicated to the public in 
my account of Marocco, it must be allowed by all 
liberal-minded men, that a native is more likely 
to give an accurate account of his country than 
a foreigner ; and a residence of sixteen years in 
a country maybe allowed to give a man of com- 
mon observation experience enough to select 
judiciously such intelligence as might be relied 
on ; and I have no hesitation in declaring it to 
be my unalterable opinion, that so soon as a tra- 
veller shall have returned from the interior of 
Africa, many of my assertions respecting those 
regions will be confirmed, and that information 
founded on the testimony of unprejudiced and 
disinterested Africans, will be found not so con- 
temptible as some learned persons have imagined. 

James G. Jackson. 



ON AFRICA. 



485 



Critical Observations on Abstracts from the Travels of 
Ali Bey, and Robert Adams, in the Quarterly Journal 
of Literature, Science, and the Arts, edited at the 
Royal Institution of Great Britain, Vol, I. No. II. 
page ^64:. 

London, Dec. 19. 1817. 

In the discussion on Aly Bey's Travels, in 
the Journal of Science and the Arts, above men- 
tioned, p. 270. are the following words : — 

" Aly Bey has added, in a separate chapter, 
all the information he received, respecting a 
mediterranean sea, from a merchant of Marocco, 
of the name of Sidi Matte Buhlal, who had 
resided many years at Tombuctoo, and in other 
countries of Sudan or Nigritia, the most material 
of which was, that Tombut is a large town, very 
trading, and inhabited by Moors and Negroes, 
and was at the same distance from the Nile 
Abid, (or Nile of the Negroes, or Niger,) as 
Fez is from Wed Sebu, that is to say, about three 
hundred English miles*" 

As this passage is quoted from Aly Bey, by 
the first literary society of Great Britain, and 
is, therefore, calculated to create a doubt of 
the accuracy of what I have said, respecting the 
distance of the Nile El Abeed from Timbuctoo, 
in the enlarged editions of my account of Ma- 
rocco, &c. page 297' I consider it a duty which 
I owe to my country and to myself, not to let 



486 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



this sentence pass through the press without 
submitting to the public my observations on the 
subject. 

Sidi Matte Buhlal is a native of Fas : the name 
is properly Sidi El Mattie Bu Hellal. This gen- 
tleman is one out of twenty authorities from 
whom I derived the information recorded in my 
account of Marocco, respecting Timbuctoo and 
the interior of Africa ; his whole family, which 
is respectable and numerous, are among the first 
Timbuctoo merchants that have their establish- 
ments at Fas. I should, however, add, that 
among the many authorities from whom I de- 
rived my information relative to Timbuctoo, 
there were two muselmin in particular, — mer- 
chants of respectability and intelligence, who 
came from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, soon after 
/ opened that port to Dutch commerce, in the 
capacity of agent of Holland, by order of the 
then Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid, bro- 
ther and predecessor of the present Emperor 
Soliman. These two gentlemen had resided at 
Timbuctoo, and in other parts of Sudan, fifteen 
years, trading during the whole of that period 
with Darbeyta, on the coast of the Red Sea, 
with Jinnie, Housa, Wangara, Cashna, and other 
countries of the interior, from whom, and from 
others, equally intelligent and credible, I pro- 
cured my information respecting the mediterra- 
nean sea in the interior of Africa, called El Bahar 
Assudan, i. e. the Sea of Sudan, situated fifteen 
days' journey east of Timbuctoo. These two 



ON AFRICA. 



437 



muselmen merchants had amassed considerable 
fortunes at Timbuctoo, and were on their jour- 
ney to Fas, their native place ; but in conse- 
quence of a civil war at that time raging 
throughout West Barbary, particularly in the 
province of Haha, through which it was indis- 
pensable that they should pass, on their way to 
Fas, they sojourned with me two months ; after 
which they departed for Fas with a caravan. 

These intelligent Moors gave me much in- 
formation respecting Timbuctoo, and the interior 
countries where they had resided ; they sold me 
many articles of Sudanic manufacture, among 
which were three pieces of fine cotton cloth, ma- 
nufactured at Timbuctoo, and some ornaments of 
pure gold in or molu, of exquisite workmanship, 
of the manufacture of Jinnie ; one of these pieces 
of Timbuctoo manufacture, of cotton interwoven 
with silk, of a square blue-and-white pattern, 
dyed with indigo of Timbuctoo, I had the honour 
to present to the British Museum, in April, 
179t) b , where it is now deposited. 

I have been led into this digression from cer- 
tain insinuations that have been c insidiously 
propagated, reflecting on the accuracy of my 
statements respecting the interior of Africa ; 

b This piece of cloth, about two yards wide and five long, 
I had the honour of offering to Sir Joseph Banks, who de- 
clined receiving it ; but at the same time suggested that it 
was a manufacture deserving public notice, and would be 
considered an acceptable present by the British Museum. 

c See my letter to the editor of the Monthly Magazine, 
for March, 1817, page 125< 



438 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



and I must add, that I always have felt, and still 
feel confident, that in proportion as we shall be- 
come more acquainted with the interior of this 
unexplored continent, my account will be so 
much the more authenticated : my confidence in 
this opinion, (however dogmatical it may appear,) 
is founded on the original and intelligent sources 
of) my information ; on a long residence and 
general acquaintance with all the principal in- 
habitants of West Barbary, whose connections 
lay in Sudan, and at Timbuctoo ; in a competent 
knowledge and practical acquaintance with the 
languages of North Africa, and a consequent 
ability to discriminate the accuracy of the 
sources of my intelligence. 

This being premised, I now proceed to offer to 
the public my animadversions on the above quo- 
tation from the Journal of Science and the Arts. 

I have actually crossed the Wed Sebu, or the 
River Sebu, alluded to in the above quotation, 
which passes through the Berebber Kabyl of 
Zimure Shelleh ; I have crossed the same river 
several times at the city of Mequinez, and also 
at Meheduma, where it enters the Atlantic 
Ocean, in lat. 34° 15' north, and from this ex- 
perimental knowledge of the course of that river, 
I can affirm, with confidence, that it is not in- 
accurately laid down in my map of West Bar- 
bary e , and that it is not three hundred English 
miles from Fas, but only six English miles from 



e For whirh see page 55. 



ON AFRICA. 



that city. I can also assert, from incontestible 
testimony, that Tombut, or Timbuctoo, is d not 
three hundred miles from the Nile El Abeed, 
but only about twelve English miles from that 
stream, the latter being south of the town. 

Respecting the following passage in the above 
quoted Journal of Science and the Arts, p. 27^. 
" This river contains the fierce animals called 
Tzemsahy which devour men/' I shall only ob- 
serve, that Tzemsah is the word in Arabic which 
denominates the crocodile. Farther on, in the 
same page, we have the words, — " We must 
suppose that the Joliba makes at this spot a 
strange winding, which gives to the inhabit- 
ants of Marocco the opinion they express." 
This supposed winding is actually asserted to 
exist, and is denominated by the Arabs e El 
Kose Nile, i. e. the arch or curve of the Nile, 
and is situated between the cities of Timbuctoo 
and Jinnie. 

I should here adduce some further testimony 
respecting the course of the Nile El Abeed ; 
but as the quotation from Aly Bey in the above 
Journal of Sciences and the Arts, page 271. 
asserts it to be towards the east, and again, in 
page 272. declares it to be towards the west, 
such incoherence, I presume, requires no con- 
futation, I consider that it originates from 
Moorish inaccuracy. 

d Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. 
p. 297. 
e Idem, note, p. 305. 



440 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



The La Mar Zarak of Adams, if any such 
river exists, may be a corruption of Sagea el 
Humra, i. e. the Red Stream, a river in the 
southern confines of Sahara, nearly in the same 
longitude with Timbuctoo. This river the 
late Emperor of Marocco, Muley Yezzid, an- 
nounced as the southern boundary of his do- 
minions ; but from the accounts which I have 
had of it, it was not of that magnitude which 
Adams ascribes to the Mar Zarak, nor was it 
precisely in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, 
w T hen I was a resident in South Barbary : rivers, 
however, which pass through sandy or desert 
districts, often change their courses in the space 
of tw T enty-four hours, by the drifting of the 
moving sands impelled by the wind ; instances 
of which I have myself often witnessed. 

If this river proceeded from the Desert, it 
might have had the name of El Bahar Sahara, i. e. 
the River of Sahara ; the word La Mar is a 
lingua franca, or corrupt Spanish word, signify- 
ing the sea, and might have been used to this 
poor sailor by a native to make it the more in- 
telligible to him. Many Spanish words having 
crept into the Arabic vocabulary, and are occa- 
sionally used by those Africans who have had 
intercourse with Europeans. 

The next passage for animadversion is as 
follows : — 

" The state in which he represented Tom- 
buctoo, and its being the residence of a Negro 
sovereign, instead of a muselman." 



ON AFRICA. 



441 



The state in which he has represented Tim- 
buctoo, is, I think, extremely inaccurate ; and 
being a slave, it is more than probable, that he 
was placed in a Fondaque f , or Caravansera, 
belonging to the King, which he mistook for his 
palace ; but that his narrative should be deemed 
inaccurate, because he has described the town 
of Timbuctoo to be under the sovereignty of a 
Negro prince, is to me incomprehensible. 

The various sources of information that I 
have investigated, uniformly declare that sove- 
reign to be a Negro, and that his name in the 
year 1800, was Woolo. This account, it ap- 
pears, is confirmed by Adams, who says, § Woolo 
was King of Timbuctoo in 1810, and that he 
was then old and grey-headed. Some years after 
the above period, Riley's Narrative, epitomised 
in Leyden's Discoveries and Travels in Africa, 
vol. i., speaking of the King of Timbuctoo, says, 
this sovereign is a very large, old, grey-headed 
black man, called Shegar, which means Sultan. 
This, however, I must observe is a misinter- 
pretation of the word Shegar, which is an Afri- 
can-Arabic word, and signifies red or carrotty, 
and is a word applicable to his physiognomy ; 
but certainly not to his rank : — Abd Shegar, a 

f Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. 
p. 298. 

8 Since publishing this letter, Mr. Bowdich, in his Ac- 
count of Ashantee, pages 194?, 195, says, Woolo was King 
of Timbuctoo in 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bowdich was 
at Ashantee. 



442 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



carrotty or red Negro. If these two testimonies, 
since 1800, be correct, then the anachronism of 
which I am accused in the New Supplement to 
the Encyclopedia Britannica, (title Africa,) is 
misapplied. 

Many of this king's civil officers, however, 
in 1800, were muselmen ; but the military were 
altogether Negroes. 

However fervent the zeal of Muhamedanism 
may be at Timbuctoo, it is not, I imagine, suf- 
ficient to convert the Negroes, who have not the 
best opinion of the Muhamedan tenets. The 
Negroes, however, are disposed to abjure idola- 
try for any other form of religion that they can 
be persuaded to think preferable, or that holds 
out a better prospect ; a convincing proof of 
which has been seen by the readiness of the 
Africans of Congo and Angola, to renounce 
their idolatry for the Christian faith, by the 
conversion of thousands to that faith by the in* 
defatigable zeal of the catholic missionaries, 
when the Portuguese first discovered those 
countries, and which, if the Sovereign of Por- 
tugal had persevered with that laudable zeal 
with which he began to promote the conversion 
of the Africans, the inhabitants of those exten- 
sive and populous countries might, at this day, 
have been altogether members of the Christian 
church ! ! 



ON AFRICA* 



443 



On the Junction of the Nile of Egypt with the Nile of 
Timbuctoo, or of Sudan. 

TO THE EDITOR OF THE MONTHLY MAGAZINE. h 
Sir, London, Jan. 25. 1817. 

Having read some annotations, in the Journal 
of a Mission to the Interior of Africa, by Mungo 
Park, in 1805, which are calculated to persuade 
some persons, that my Account of the Interior of 
Africa is not altogether authentic, I feel myself 
called upon to offer some cursory observations 
to the public, in refutation of those aspersions. 
(Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Mungo Park's 
Second Journey, in 1805, pages 114. and 115.) 

Although I assert, on the concurrent testi- 
mony of the best informed and most intelligent 
natives of Sudan, that there exists a 5 water 
communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 
I do not maintain that the k Nile of Sudan falls 
into the 1 Nile of Egypt, but that it hath a 
communication with it, or with some river that 

h Inserted in March, 1817. 

1 Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, 
page 310. 

k {Nile el Kabeer) the Great Nile, [Bahar el Abeed, or 
Nile el Abeed) the Nile of Slaves or Negroes, (Nile Sudan) 
the Nile of Sudan or Nigritia, are the various names applied 
to the river that passes by Timbuctoo, and through the in- 
terior of Sudan, from west to east. 

1 Nik Masser is the name applied to the Nile of Egypt, 



444 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



connects itself with the Nile of Egypt, which 
opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornemann, on 
African authority. 

It is very probable that this junction is formed 
by a stream that flows westward towards Wan- 
gara through the country called m Bahar Kulla, 
and Lake Dwi, from the source of the Nile of 
Egypt, or from that part of the Jibbel Kumri, 
or Lunar Mountains, which form the southern 
boundary of Donga. 

If this be so, the junction of the Nile el 
Abeed, of Timbuctoo, and the Bahar el Abead 
of Donga n , (or more properly the Bahar el 
Abeed,) is established, and the water communi- 
cation between Timbuctoo and Cairo is proved ; 
admitting, however, that the Negroes reported 
by me to have performed the ° voyage by water, 
took their boat or canoe ashore, to ascend the 
cataracts, in the country between Wangara and 
Donga. 

Mr. Park's annotator, in the spirit of contro- 
versy with which he appears to be endued, may 
say, the fact of this stream running to the west 
towards Wangara, cannot be admitted, because 

m Bahar Kulla is an Arabic term, signifying the sea al- 
together, implying an alluvial a country, (probably forming a 
part of the mediterranean sea of central Africa). See Major 
Kennel's Map in the Proceedings of the African Associa- 
tion, vol. i. 8vo. page 209. lat. N. 10°, long. 18°. 

n Vide Major Rennel's Map in the Proceedings of the 
African Association, 8vo. edition, vol. i. page 209. 

° Vide Jackson's Marocco, second or third edition, 
-page 312. 



ON AFRICA. 



4,45 



Mr. Browne saw a ridge of mountains extending 
in that direction ; but Mr. Browne did not as- 
certain that this was an uninterrupted ridge ; 
the river might therefore pass through some 
chasm similar to that which I have seen in cross- 
ing the Atlas Mountains, or through some in- 
termediate plain. 

The annotator further says p , " It is needless 
to comment upon such hearsay statements, re- 
ceived from an African traveller." This asser- 
tion being calculated to impress on the public 
mind, that I founded my hypothesis respecting 
the junction of the Niles of Africa on the simple 
and single statement of one individual African 
traveller ; I feel it incumbent on me thus pub- 
licly to declare, that the junction alluded to is 
founded on the universal and concurrent testi- 
mony of all the most intelligent and "well in- 
formed native African travellers (for the most 
part natives of Sudan), not one of whom dif- 
fered in this opinion, but unanimously declared 
it to be an uncontroverted fact, that the waters 
of the Nile of Egypt joined the waters of the 
Nile el Abeed, which passes near Timbuctoo to 
the east ; and that there exists, without a doubt, 
a water communication between Cairo in Egypt, 
and Timbuctoo in Sudan. Now, if, as M. de 
Bailly observes, " la verite se fait connaitre par 
h concours des temoignages" it must be admitted, 

p Vide Appendix, No. IV. to Park's Second Journey- 
page 115. 



446 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



by men of liberal sentiments, that it is somewhat 
more than a hearsay statement ; and what better 
foundation can there possibly be for the truth of 
any geological fact, than the concurrent testi- 
mony of the best-informed natives of the coun- 
try described ? 

With respect to precision being unfavourable 
to authenticity q , I consider this a new dogma ; 
and if I were disposed to confute it, (but it 
carries with it its own confutation,) I should 
point out many hearsay evidences, precisely re- 
corded in my Account of Marocco, which have 
been confirmed already by Ah Bey (El Abassy) 
and many others ; but " non est hie locus" 

J. G. Jackson. 

Strictures respecting the Interior of Africa, and Coiifirmr* 
ation of Jackson' 's Account of Sudan, annexed to his 
Account of the Umpire of Marocco, fyc, 

London, 16th Jan. 1818. 

It is a satisfaction to perceive (after a lapse of 
eight or nine years since the publication of my 
account of Marocco and the interior of Africa), 
that in proportion as we are becoming better ac- 
quainted with the interior of that continent, my 
account becomes more authenticated, notwith- 
standing the attempts that have been so insidi- 
ously made to invalidate it. 

i Vide Appendix, No. II. to Park's, Second Journey 
age 103. 



ON AFRICA. 



447 



The various hypotheses, for the most part 
founded in theory, that have within the last 
seven years, been adopted respecting the course 
of the Nile el Abeed (Niger), are beginning now 
to fall to the ground, and the learned and judi- 
cious editor of the Supplement to the New En- 
cyclopedia Britannica, founding his opinions, as 
it should seem, upon the facts that have been 
corroborated respecting the interior of Africa, 
has actually adopted my opinion ; c viz. 

That there is an union of waters between the 
Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan d ; where the 
common receptacle is, I have not ventured to 
declare, but it is probable that it may be in the 
Bahar Kulla e , in Wangara, or in the f Sea of 
Sudan ; the opinion that the junction is formed in 
the Sea of Sudan is supported by the Shereef 
Imhammed, who saw the Nile at Cashna, and de- 
clared that it was so rapid there from east to west, 
that vessels could not stem it. 

Again : Parke's intelligence, in his second 

c See my letter to the Editor of the Monthly Magazine, 
vol. xliii. March, 1817, page 125. 

d It is incorrect to say, that the word Nile is applied, in 
Africa, to any great river : the name, I can with confidence de- 
clare, is never applied to any river in North Africa, except the 
Nile of Egypt, and that of Sudan ; whoever has propagated 
this opinion has mistaken the matter altogether. See Pro- 
ceedings of the African Association, vol. i. page 54?0. 

c See Major Rennell's Map of North Africa, lat. north 6°, 
long, west 18°, &c. 

f See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, Timbuc- 
too, 8cc, page 310. 



448 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



journey, demonstrates an union of waters in the 
(Baseafeena g ) Sea of Sudan ; for he says, the 
current was said to be sometimes one way, and 
sometimes another ; which I will take the liberty 
to interpret thus : — 

That the current from the Eastern Nile, was 
westward into the Sea of Sudan, and the current 
of the Western Nile was eastward into the same 
sea of Sudan : thus the current would be some- 
times one way, and sometimes another, making 
the Sea of Sudan the common receptacle for 
the Eastern as well as for the Western Nile. 

Ptolemy's Sea of Nigritia is undoubtedly the 
same with my Sea of Sudan ; Lybia Palas h being 
the Latin denomination, as Bahar Sudan is the 
Arabic for the interior lake called the Sea of 
Sudan ; but whether this sea of Sudan will ulti- 
mately prove to be situated 1 as I have described 
it, fifteen journies k east of Timbuctoo, or 450 
English miles, or as Ptolemy has described it, 
or in the intermediate distance between the two 
extremes, must be left for future travellers to 
ascertain. 

The enterprising and indefatigable, the patient 
and persevering genius of Burkhardt, deriving 
incalculable advantages from a long residence in 
the eastern regions of Africa, may probably de- 

5 Another name for the Sea of Sudan, as will hereafter 
appear. 

h See Ptolemy's Map of North Africa. 
1 See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, page 310. 
k Fifteen journies horse travelling, which are the journies 
here alluded to, at thirty miles a-day, is 450 British miles. 



ON AFRICA. 



449 



cree him to be the person to clear up this long- 
contested geographical point, unless the fascina- 
tion of Arabian manners, or some Utopia in the 
interior regions of that continent, should wean 
him from the desire to re-visit his native 
country. 

This intelligence of Park may be considered 
some corroboration of what I have maintained 
respecting the union of waters between the 
Eastern and Western Niles. 1 

The following testimonies are some confirm- 
ation of my report respecting decked vessels, &c. 
in the interior of Africa. m 

Dr. Stetzen, a German physician residing at 
Alexandria n , says, that he has received intelli- 
gence from a pilgrim, on his way to Mecca, a 
native of Ber Noh, or Bernou °, that the river 
within a mile of the city is as large as the Egyp- 
tian Nile, and overflows its banks \ it is navigated 
by vessels of considerable dimensions, carrying 
sails and oars. 

Mr. Barnes states, that the Niger discharges 
itself into a large lake ; that he has heard from 
the Black traders that there are white inhabit- 
ants upon the borders of this lake ; and has been 

1 See Monthly Magazine, March, 1817, page 125. 
m See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. 
page 309. 

n For full particulars, see New Supp. to Ency. Brit, arti- 
cle " Africa." 

° This Bernou, or according to the Arabic orthography, 
Ber Noh, is asserted by the Arabs to be the birth-place of 
the Patriarch Noah. 



450 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



told, by people who have seen them, that they 
dress in the style of Barbary Moors, and wear 
turbans, but do not speak Arabic. See Report 
of Committee of Council. p 

Park, in his second journey, w r as informed, 
that " one month's travel south of Baedo, through 
the kingdom of Gotto, will bring the traveller 
to the country of the Christians, who have their 
houses on the banks of the Ba Seqfeena % which 
they describe as incomparably larger than the lake 
Dehebby (Dibble)." — This is another corrobor- 
ation of the accuracy of my account of the inte- 
rior of Africa ; but before I dismiss this subject, 
I should observe, that from the general ignorance 
of the African Arabic, an important circum- 
stance respecting this Ba Seqfeena, is not yet 
(it appears) discovered. It is this : — the words Ba 
Seqfeena, or, according to the correct Arabic 
orthography, Bahar Sefeena, literally translated 
into English, signifies the Sea of Ships, and is 
evidently only another name for the Sea of Su- 
dan, declaring it to be a sea wherein ships are 
found ! 

Here then are two topographical facts first 
asserted by me, among the moderns, to exist in 
the heart of Africa, and since confirmed by Ali 
Bey, Park, and Dr. Sietzen, or, as the enlight- 
ened editor of the Supplement to the New En- 
cyclopedia Britt. observes, 

" We have thus three independent testimo- 

p See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. p. 309. 
q See New Supp, to Ency. Brit, article " Africa." 



ON AFRICA. 



niesr from opposite quarters, meeting exactly in 
the same point ; nor does there, as far as we 
know, exist any evidence at all respectable to 
the contrary. 

It now remains for me to declare (that as opi- 
nions have been industriously propagated tend- 
ing to discredit my account of Marocco, and the 
interior of Africa,) that nothing has been set 
down therein, until I had previously investi- 
gated the qualifications of the narrators, their 
means of knowledge, and whether the respec- 
tive vocations of the several narrators made it 
their interest to disguise or misrepresent the 
truth of their communications ; and, after ascer- 
taining these important points, I have gene- 
rally had recourse to other testimonies, and 
have seldom recorded any thing until confirmed 
by three or four concurrent evidences : on this 
pyramidtcal basis is founded the intelligence in 
my account of Marocco, and of the interior of 
Africa, annexed to that account. 

This assertion is to be understood in respect 
to intelligence that I could not ascertain by 
ocular demonstration. 

Finally, my description of the black heart- 
headed serpent, called Bouska 5 , has been doubted; 
but a late traveller c has confirmed the accuracy 

r The testimonies here alluded to are Hornman, Park, and 
Jackson. 

8 See Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109. 
* " I paid two dollars for a station, and I looked into the 
room without interruption. It was about twenty feet long, 



452 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



of my account even of this extraordinary animal, 
— In Riley's Narrative of his Shipwreck on the 



and fifteen broad, paved with tiles and plastered within. 
The windows had also been secured by an additional grating 
made of wire, in such a manner as to render it impossible 
for the serpents to escape from the room : it had but one 
door, and that had a hole cut through it six or eight inches 
square : this hole was also secured by a grating. In the 
room stood two men, who appeared to be Arabs, with long 
bushy hair and beards ; and I was told they were a particular 
race of men, that could charm serpents. 

" A wooden box, about four feet long and two wide, was 
placed near the door, with a string fastened to a slide at one 
end of it ; this string went through a hole in the door. The 
two serpent-eaters were dressed in haiks only, and those very 
small ones. After they had gone through their religious 
ceremonies most devoutly, they appeared to take an eternal 
farewell of each other : this done, one of them retired from 
the room, and shut the door tight after him. The Arab 
within seemed to be in dreadful distress. I could observe his 
heart throb, and his bosom heave most violently: and he 
cried out very loudly, " Allah houakiber,'* three times; 
which is, as I understood it, God have mercy on me.* 

" The Arab was at the farthest end of the room : at that 
instant the cage was opened, and a serpent crept out slowly ; 
he was about four feet long, and eight inches in circum- 
ference ; his colours were the most beautiful in nature, being 
bright, and variegated with a deep yellow, a purple, a cream 
colour, black and brown, spotted, &c. As soon as he saw 
the Arab in the room, his eyes, which were small and green, 
kindled as with fire ; he erected himself in a second, his head 
two feet high ; and darting on the defenceless Arab, seized 



* N. B. This is a misinterpretation of the Arabic words 
here used, which, literally translated, signify, God alone, is 
great ! — J. G. J. 



ON AFRICA. 



Coast of Sahara is given an account of an exhi- 
bition by two Isawie", who do not appear to 



him between the folds of his haik, just above his right hip- 
bone, hissing most horribly ; the Arab gave a horrid shriek, 
when another serpent came out of the cage. This last was 
black, very shining, and appeared to be seven or eight feet 
long, but not more than two inches in diameter : as soon as 
he had cleared the cage, he cast his red fiery eyes on his in- 
tended victim, thrust out his forked tongue, threw himself 
into a coil, erected his head, which was in the centre of the coil, 
three feet from the floor, and flattening out the skin above 
his head and eyes, in the form, and nearly of the size of a 
human heart, and springing like lightning on the Arab, struck 
its fangs into his neck near the jugular vein, while his tail 
and body flew round his neck and arms in two or three folds. 
The Arab set up the most hideous and piteous yelling, foamed 
and frothed at the mouth, grasping the folds of the serpent, 
which were round his arms with his right hand, and seemed 
to be in the greatest agony, striving to tear the reptile from 
around his neck, while with his left he seized hold of it near 
its head, but could not break its hold : by this time the other 
had turned itself around his legs, and kept biting all around 
the other parts of his body, making apparently deep inci- 
sions : the blood, issuing from every wound (both in his neck 
and body,) streamed all over his haik and skin. My blood 
was chilled in my veins with horror at this sight, and it was 
with difficulty my legs would support my frame. 

" Notwithstanding the Arab's greatest exertions to tear 
away the serpents with his hands, they turned themselves 
still tighter, stopped his breath, and he fell to the floor, 
where he continued for a moment, as if in the most incon- 
ceivable agony, rolling over, and covering every part of his 
body with his own blood and froth, until he ceased to move, 
and appeared to have expired. In his last struggle, he had 
wounded the black serpent with his teeth, as it was striving, 
as it were, to force its head into his mouth, which wound 



454 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



have been adepts in the art of fascinating these 
serpents ; for I have frequently seen them ma- 



seemed to increase its rage. At this instant I heard the shrill 
sound of a whistle, and looking towards the door saw the 
other Arab applying a call to his mouth : the serpents lis- 
tened to the music, their fury seemed to forsake them by 
degrees, they disengaged themselves leisurely from the appa- 
rently lifeless carcase, and creeping towards the cage, they 
soon entered it, and were immediately fastened in. 

" The door of the apartment was now opened, and he 
without ran to assist his companion : he had a phial of blackish 
liquor in one hand, and an iron chissel in the other : finding 
the teeth of his companion set, he thrust in the chissel, forced 
them open, and then poured a little of the liquor into his 
mouth ; and holding the lips together, applied his mouth to 
the dead man's nose, and filled his lungs with air i he next 
anointed his numerous wounds with a little of the same liquid, 
and yet no sign of life appeared. I thought he was dead in 
earnest ; his neck and veins were exceedingly swollen ; when 
his comrade taking up the lifeless trunk in his arms, brought 
it out into the open air, and continued the operation of blow- 
ing for several minutes before a sign of life appeared ; at 
length he gasped, and after a time recovered so far as to 
be able to speak. The swellings in his neck, body, and legs 
gradually subsided, as they continued washing the wounds 
with clear cold water and a Sponge, and applying the black 
liquor occasionally ; a clean haik was wrapped about him, 
but his strength seemed so far exhausted that he could not 
support himself standing, so his comrade laid him on the 
ground by a wall, where he sunk into a sleep. This exhi- 
bition lasted for about a quarter of an hour from the time the 
serpents were let loose until they were called off, and it was 
more than an hour from that time before he could speak. I 
thought I could discover that the poisonous fangs had been 
pulled out of these formidable serpents' jaws, and mentioned 
that circumstance to the showman, who said, that they had 



ON AFRICA. 



4*55 



nage and charm the Bonska much more adroitly 
than those who exhibited at Rabat before RiW 9 
although its bite is more deadly, and its strength 
considerably greater, than that of the El Effah ! 

Animadversions on the Orthography of African Names. 

(to the editor of the monthly magazine, 
inserted may, 1818.) 

Sir, Bennet's-hill, Feb. 1818. 

I should be much surprised to find that Jack- 
son's account of what he has heard is doubted, 
if I did not remember that Bruce's account of 



indeed been extracted ; and when I wished to know how 
swellings on his neck and other parts could be assumed, he 
assured me, that though their deadly fangs were out, yet 
that the poisonous quality of their breath and spittle would 
cause the death of those they attack ; that after a bite from 
either of these serpents, no man could exist longer than fif- 
teen minutes : and that there was no remedy for any but 
those who were endowed by the Almighty with power to charm, 
and to manage them ; and that he and his associates were of 
that favoured number! The Moors and Arabs call the thick 
and beautiful serpent El Effah, and the long black and heart- 
headed one El Bouskah. 

" I afterwards saw engravings of these two serpents in 
Jackson s. Marocco, which are very correct resemblances. 
They are said to be very numerous on and about the south 
foot of the Atlas mountains and border of the Desert, where 
these were caught when young, and where they often attack 
both menandbeasts.' , — Vide Riley s Shipwreck and Captivity 
in the Great Desert, p. 550. 

u Disciples of Seedy ben Isa, whose sanctuary is at Fas, 
and who possess the art of fascinating serpents. 



456 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



what he had seen was disbelieved. Nothing hu- 
man can appear to me more deserving of im- 
plicit credit than the intelligence the former of 
these writers gives respecting Timbuctoo. He 
has not seen it, it is true. I have not seen Lis- 
bon ; but, if I had, and were to sit down to 
write an account of it, some things would be 
necessary to be described, with regard to which 
I should feel a degree of uncertainty ; and, hav- 
ing given an account of Lisbon, if I were to visit 
it again, I should find others on which I had 
been mistaken. But let me arrange in my own 
mind the information I want respecting Lisbon ; 
let me make enquiries of twenty intelligent per- 
sons who have resided there ; let me carefully 
compare their different accounts, and who shall 
doubt the accuracy of the result ? 

Mr. Jackson has had an opportunity of ac- 
quiring information respecting Timbuctoo that 
no other European ever had, by having the di- 
rection of commerce in a city frequented by Tim- 
buctan merchants ; a city, the port of which is 
called, in Arabic, Bah Sudan, the Gate of Su- 
dan. Mr. Jackson was qualified to make use of 
this advantage to an extent that no other Eu- 
ropean ever was, by a practical, and even cri- 
tical knowledge of the general language of the 
country, — the African Arabic. To these Mr. 
Jackson added an ardent spirit of research, an 
industry which neglected no opportunity, a cau- 
tion to compare, a judgment to discriminate, 
and a firmness to decide. Who, that weighs 



ON AFRICA. 



457 



these things, can doubt the accuracy of his in- 
telligence respecting Sudan ? I even regard his 
orthography as the standard of correctness, and 
am surprised that any person should continue to 
write Tombuctoo instead of Timbuctoo, or Fez 
instead of Fas. 

I am inclined to believe that Adams has been 
at Timbuctoo, though I do not consider it as 
proved ; but, supposing that he has, and that I 
wished to become acquainted with that city, 
would I apply for information to an illiterate 
slave, who was confined within narrow precincts ? 
Or would I rely upon the united testimony of 
twenty persons of education, who had each a 
wider field of observation ? 

I have read " Jackson's Account of Marocco" 
twice through, at different periods, with great 
attention ; and I do most heartily join in the 
confidence expressed by the enlightened and ju- 
dicious author, that, in proportion as the inte- 
rior of Africa shall be more known, the truth of 
his account of it will be made evident. 

Catherine Hut/ion. 

Hints for the Civilisation of Barbary, and Diffusion of 
Commerce* 

March 16, 1818. 
Algiers, and the territory belonging to it, is 
governed by despotic Turks, the refuse of the 
Ottoman troops \ who maintain their power over 
the Moors and Arabs of the plains (who are the 



458 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



cultivators of the country), and over the Bereb- 
bers (who are the aborigines of the country), or 
inhabitants of the mountains of Atlas, which ter- 
minate this sovereignty on the south, and divide 
Algiers from Bled-al-Jereed. The first principle 
of this barbarous and sanguinary government, 
according to an African adage, is to " Mamtain 
the arm of power, by making streams of blood flow* 
without intermission* around the throne /" This 
country, — the government of which reflects dis- 
grace on Christendom, which has been, during 
many ages the scourge of Christian mariners, and 
of all who navigate the Mediterranean Sea, — 
has often been conquered. The Romans re- 
duced Numidia and Mauritania into Roman pro- 
vinces. This beautiful garden of the world was 
afterwards conquered by the Vandals ; then by 
the Greeks, during the reign of Justinian, under 
Belisarius ; and, finally, three times by the Arabs, 
viz. in the 647th year of Christ, by Abdallah 
and Zobeer; in the year 667> by Ak'bah for the 
Kalif Moawiah ; and in the year 692, by Hassan, 
the governor of Egypt, for the Kalif Abd Elme- 
lik. Not one of the armies of these warriors 
ever exceeded 50,000 men. 

After these general conquests, the partial con- 
quests of the Portuguese and Spaniards, about 
the end of the fifteenth and beginning of the 
sixteenth century, were effected by a mere hand- 
ful of men ; and, in 1509, the latter rendered 
the kingdom of Algiers tributary to them : but, 
afterwards, they lost it by the ferocity of their 



ON AFRICA* 



459 



chiefs, and by the fanaticism of their soldiers 
and priests ; and, finally, by their perfidy and 
intolerance, they made themselves enemies to 
the various (Kabyks) tribes of Mauritania, and 
thereby lost their conquest. 

The repeated insults, offered by these ruf- 
fians to civilised Europe, cannot be efficiently 
punished by a bombardment ; a measure which 
punishes many innocent subjects for the insults 
offered by their government. No one ac- 
quainted with the character of the natives of 
Barbary will maintain, that the destruction of a 
few thousands of the peaceable inhabitants, or 
the burning of many houses, is a national cala- 
mity in the eyes of a Muselman chief ; who 
would himself commit the same ravage and de- 
struction that was so gallantly effected by the 
British fleet, under Lord Exmouth, for half the 
money it cost to accomplish it. 

When Lord St. Vincent was off Cadiz with 
the British fleet, and could not obtain the object 
which he sought of the Emperor of Marocco ; 
his Lordship, after refusing to comply with the 
Emperor's request, communicated to his Lord- 
ship by the Emperor's envoy or agent, Rais Ben 
Embark, told the Rais to inform his Emperor, 
that, if he did not change his conduct very soon, 
he would begin a war with him, and such a war 
as he had neither seen nor read of before. When 
the Rais reported this to the Emperor Soliman, 
he enquired what kind of war an admiral could 
wage against him : some one of the divan ob- 
served, that he would destroy the ports on the 



460 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



coast ; adding, that it would cost a certain large 
sum of money to effect that destruction. Upon 
which the Emperor exclaimed, that, for half 
that amount, he would himself destroy all these 
ports. — This affair happened in September, 1798. 

There is a prophecy in Barbary, that, from 
time immemorial, has been generally credited 
by the inhabitants. It has been transmitted to 
them by some fakeer, that the land of the Mu- 
selmen will be wrested from them by the Chris- 
tians ; and there is an impression, that the period 
when this event will take place is not far dis- 
tant. They also believe that this event will hap- 
pen on a Friday (the Muselman Sabbath), whilst 
they are occupied at their devotions at theDohor, 
service of prayer. Accordingly, at this period, 
— viz. from twelve till half-past one o'clock, — 
the gates of all the towns on the coast are shut 
and bolted every Friday. This attack, forsooth, 
is to happen whilst they are occupied at prayer, 
because they are so infatuated with an opinion 
of their own valour, that they will not believe 
that Christians would presume to attack them 
openly, when armed and prepared for the com- 
bat. It should seem that these people begin 
now seriously to anticipate the near approach of 
this predestined conquest, and have accordingly 
entered into a kind of holy alliance, offensive 
and defensive : to which, it is said, the Empe- 
ror of Marocco, and the Deys of Tunis and Tri- 
poli, have acceded ; and that this holy alliance 
is crowned by the Ottoman Emperor. 



ON AFRICA* 



461 



It is more than probable, that the Dey of 
Algiers, goaded by the blow inflicted by 
Lord Exmouth, — which has increased his ha- 
tred to Christians, and has inflamed his desire 
of revenge, — will not fail to seek every op- 
portunity (according to the known principles of 
Muhamedanism), of retaliating and insulting 
the Europeans, whenever a favourable oppor- 
tunity may offer, even at the risk of another 
bombardment. This opinion has been confirmed 
by his late conduct ; and by the activity that has 
been manifested in the fortifications, in increasing 
their military force, in building and equipping 
new vessels, to infest the Mediterranean with 
their abominable piracies : all which proceedings 
demonstrate the hostile intentions of the Dey 
beyond all doubt. 

Plan for the Conquest of Algiers. 

The inhabitants of the plains are bigoted to 
the Muhamedan tenets ; but they would rea- 
dily exchange the iron rod that rules them for 
a more mild and beneficial form of government. 
A well-disciplined European army of 50,000 
men, would assuredly effect their complete con- 
quest without much difficulty : such an army, 
directed by a Wellington, would perform won- 
ders, and astound the Africans. After the con- 
quest, an energetic, decisive, but beneficent 
form of government, would be necessary, to 
retain the country, and to conquer and annihi- 



46£ 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



late the repugnancy which these people enter- 
tain to our religious tenets. A system of rule 
formed on the principles of the English consti- 
tution, — directed by good policy, benevolence, 
and religious toleration, — would not fail to re- 
concile these hostile tribes, and attach them to 
rational government. The Berebbers would 
readily assimilate to such a government ; and, 
although by nature a treacherous race, they 
would rejoice to see the country in possession 
of a government which, they would perceive, 
strove to promote the welfare and prosperity of 
the mountaineers, as well as the inhabitants of 
the plains \ and their own interest would thus 
gradually subdue the antipathy resulting from 
religious prejudices. 

A general knowledge of the African Arabic 
would be essentially necessary ; and I think a 
school might be established in England, on the 
Madras system, for initiating youths (going out 
to Africa) in the rudiments of that language. 
This would be attended with most important 
advantages; and might be accomplished in a 
very short time. The conquest of Algiers being 
thus effected, that of the neighbouring states 
would follow, without difficulty, by a disciplined 
army of European troops ; keeping the principle 
ever in view, of conciliating the natives, without 
swerving from an energetic and decisive mode 
of government. 

The advantages that would necessarily result 
from a successful attack upon Africa, would be — 



ON AFRICA. 



463 



1. An incalculable demand for spices, and 
East India manufactures of silk and cotton. 

2. A similar demand for coffees, and for su- 
gars, manufactured and unmanufactured ; as well 
as for other articles of West India produce. 

3. An incalculable demand for all our various 
articles of manufacture. 

On the other hand, we should obtain from this 
fine country, — 

1. An immense supply of the finest wheat, 
and other grain, that the world produces. 

2. We should be able to open a direct com- 
munication with the interior regions of Africa, — 
which have baffled the enterprise of ancient and 
modern Europe : the fertile and populous dis- 
tricts which lie contiguous to the Nile of Sudan, 
throughout the whole of the interior of Africa, 
would become, in a few years, as closely con- 
nected to us, by a mutual exchange of benefits, 
as our own colonies ; and such a stimulus would 
be imparted to British enterprise and industry, 
as would secure to us such stores of gold as would 
equal the riches of Solomon, and immortalize the 
prince who should cherish this great commerce 
to its maturity. 

Vasco de Gama. 



464 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



(TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) 

Sir, Liverpool, Dec. 17. 1818. 

In " The Portfolio," a Monthly Miscellany 
for May, 1817, published at Philadelphia, there 
is rather an interesting review of Ali Bey's tra- 
vels. The writer says, " Ali Bey has rectified 
various errors in the common maps of Marocco. 
The river Luccos, for instance, flows to the 
South, and not to the North of Alcasser ; and 
the city of Fas, according to Ali Bey, is situ- 
ated in 34° 6' north latitude, and not as laid down 
in the Maps of Arrowsmith, Rennell, Delille, 
Golberri, &c." — If, however, he had given him- 
self the trouble to consult the map of West Bar- 
bary, in Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. &c. 
(which is by far the most accurate extant, and 
whose geographical orthography has been adopted 
in all the best modern English maps,) he would 
have seen that Fas is in 34° north latitude ; that 
the river Elkos, or Luccos, is described in that 
map, (which was published several years before 
Ali Bey's travels,) as running south of Alcasser. 

In describing the funeral cry at Marocco, the 
editor, or reviewer, impresses his reader with 
an idea that this funeral cry is that of the Moors, 
whereas it is no such thing : it is the practice of 
the Jews only in West Barbary to cry " Ah ! 
Ah !" and lacerate their faces with their finger 



ON AFRICA. 



465 



nails ; after which they wash, drink brandy, and 
enjoy themselves. 

The large sea in the interior of Africa, de- 
scribed by Ali Bey to be without any communi- 
cation with the Ocean, had been described (years 
before Ali Bey's travels were published) by Jack- 
son, in his Account of Marocco, &c. &c. third 
edition, p. 309, and called first by him Bahar 
Sudan, and represented as a sea having decked 
vessels on it. Mr. Park, in his Second Journey, 
calls this sea the Bahar Seafina, without, how- 
ever, informing the public, or knowing, that the 
Bahar Sefeena is an Arabic expression implying 
a sea of ships, or a sea where ships are found ; 
and the situation he places it in coincides ex- 
actly with Jackson's prior description. There 
are thus three concurrent testimonies of the si- 
tuation of the Bahar Sudan, or Sea of Sudan, 
Jirst noticed by Jackson, and since confirmed by 
Ali Bey and Park. a 

El Hage Hamed El Wangary. 



On the Negroes. 
(TO THE EDITOR OF THE EUROPEAN MAGAZINE.) 
Sir, Eton, 5th Dec. 1818. 

Many maintain that the Negroes are a docile 
and tractable race, and more easily to be go- 
verned than Europeans ; others maintain, that 

a There is an able discussion of this subject in the New 
Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, article " Africa," 
p. 104, and 105. 



466 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



they are liars, thieves, vindictive, and a demo- 
ralised race. That they are vindictive, no one 
who is acquainted with their character will deny ; 
but are not most barbarous and uncivilised na- 
tions the same ? What are the Muhamedans 
and Pagans ? The latter, who form nearly two- 
thirds of the population of the earth, are gene- 
rally of the same character, and the vindictive 
character of the former is notorious. 

Propagate among the Negroes the benign prin- 
ciples of the Christian doctrine, and they will 
gradually (as those principles are inculcated) 
become good subjects, and useful members of 
society. It is that religion which will bring 
forth their latent and social virtues — a religion, 
the moral principles of which are the admiration 
even of its enemies, the Muhamedans them- 
selves : a religion which exalts the human cha- 
racter above the brutes, and brings forth its 
beauties as the brilliancy of the diamond is 
brought forth by the hand of the polisher. 

Destroy their witchcraft and idolatry, and on 
their ruins inculcate the divine doctrines of Christ, 
and we shall soon see that they will possess sen- 
timents that exalt the human character, and that 
nothing has contributed more to their mental 
degradation than the cruel treatment of their 
masters in the European colonies of the West. 

Vasco de Gama. 



ON AFRICA. 



467 



Cursory Observations on Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's 
Journal of a Route across India, through Egypt, to 
England. 

Eton, 7th May, 1819. 

It is remarkable, that in proportion as our 
mass of information respecting the interior of 
Africa increases, the truth of Mr. James Grey 
Jackson's account of that country, in the ap- 
pendix to his account of Marocco, &c. receives 
additional confirmation. Some literary sceptics 
have been so far prejudiced against this author's 
report as to doubt its veracity altogether ; but 
let us see how far the interesting report of 
Lieut.-Colonel Fitzclarence, in his journal of a 
route across India, through Egypt, to England, 
lately published, corroborates Mr. Jackson's 
description of Timbuctoo, published so long 
since as 1809. 

It is to be lamented, that Jackson's African 
orthography is not altogether adopted : with 
the superior and practical knowledge which he 
evidently possesses of the African Arabic lan- 
guage, it cannot, I presume, be doubted by 
the learned and impartial, that his orthography 
is correct ; and, judging from what has already 
transpired, I do not hesitate to predict, that his 
African orthography, from an evidence of its 
accuracy, will, in a few years, be adopted 
throughout ; although the learned world have 
been ten years in correcting Tombuctoo into 
Timbuctoo \ the latter being Mr. Jackson's ortho- 



468 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



graphy in his account of Marocco, Timbuctoo, 
&c. publislied in 1809. 

The late account of Mr. Bowdich's mission to 
Ashantee has been the first to corroborate this 
author in this respect ; and Lieut. -Colonel Fitz- 
clarence has confirmed it with this additional 
observation, in his Journal of a Route, &c. 
page 493 : " Upon enquiring about Tombuctoo 
the Hage laughed at our pronunciation, the 
name of the city being Timbuctoo." The next 
improvement in African geographical ortho- 
graphy, will probably be the conversion of Fez 
into Fas (for there is absolutely no more reason 
for calling it Fez than there has been for call- 
ing Timbuctoo, Tombuctoo), this word being 
spelled in Arabic with the letters Fa y Alif, and 
Sin, which cannot be converted into any other 
orthography but Fas ; the same argument would 
hold with various other words spelled correctly 
by this author, an accurate elucidation of which 
might encroach too much upon your valuable 
pages. I shall therefore briefly state, that in 
page 48(j of Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal, the 
name of the Moorish gentleman to whose care 
the sons of the Emperor of Marocco, Muley 
Soliman, were confided, is stated to be El 
Hadge Talib ben Jelow : this is incorrect ortho- 
graphy, there is no such name in the Arabic 
language as Jelow, it is a barbarism ; ben J elow 
signifies ben Jelule, and the proper name is El 
Hage Taleb ben Jelule. 

Page 494. Behur Sol dan is evidently another 



ON AFRICA • 



barbarism or corruption of the Arabic words 
Bahar Sudan : ride Jackson's Account of Ma- 
rocco, Timbuctoo, &c. page 309, published by 
Cadell and Davies. 

It has been observed by an intelligent French 
writer, that " Le pluspart des hommes mesnrant 
leur Jot par leur connoissance acqnise croyent d 
fort pen de chases" In confirmation of this 
opini6n, many intelligent men, at the time of 
the publication of Jackson's Account of Ma- 
rocco, Timbuctoo, &c. doubted the existence 
of the Heirie, as described by him ; but in pro- 
portion as our knowledge of Africa improves, 
we see that the truth of these wonders is con- 
firmed : and Colonel Fitzclarence mentions one 
that travelled four days in one ; but we should 
not be surprised to hear, before this century 
shall terminate, that an Englishman had tra- 
velled from Fas to Timbuctoo on a Heirie, 
accompanied by an accredited agent of the Em- 
peror of Marocco, in ten or fifteen days ! 

It appears by this ingenious traveller's Journal 
of a Route, &c. page 493, that all religions are 
tolerated at Timbuctoo. This is a confirmation 
of what is reported by Jackson, in the Ap- 
pendix annexed to his Account of Marocco, &c. 
page 300. 

The fish in the river of Timbuctoo, the Neel 
El Abeed or Neel of Sudan, is described by 
Colonel Fitzclarence as resembling salmon : this 
is a corroboration of Jackson, who says, the 
shebbel abound in the Neel of Sudan, and the; 



470 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



shebbeJ is the African salmon. See appendix 
to Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c. page306. 

In page 494, Colonel Fitzclarence says, the 
Nile at Kabra is a quarter of a mile wide ; 
Jackson says it is as wide as the Thames at 
London. See Appendix to Jackson's Marocco, 
&c. page 305. 

In page 496 of the Colonel's narrative, an 
account is given of the rate of travelling through 
the Desert ; which, allowing for an arbitrary 
difference in the resting days, corroborates Jack- 
son's Account, page 286. 

In page 497? El hage Taleb ben Jelule's 
report to the Colonel, of an account of two 
white men, (undoubtedly Mungo Park and 
another,) who were at Timbuctoo in 1806, is a 
remarkable confirmation of the account brought 
by Mr. Jackson from Mogodor in January, 1807, 
and reported by him to the Marquis of Hastings, 
to Sir Joseph Banks, and to Sir Charles Morgan, 
which is inserted in the Morning Post and other 
papers, about the middle of August, 1814. 
I am, Sir, 

Your most obedient servant, 

Vasco de Gama. 



ON AFRICA. 



On the Arabic Language, as iwjo spoken in Turkey in 
Europe^ in Asia, and in Africa. 

London, May 10, 1819. 

In this enlightened age, when our intercourse 
is increasing with nations remote from our own, 
and possessing different religions, languages, 
laws, and customs; when the ambassadors of 
the Muhamedan potentates of Europe, Asia, 
and Africa, are resident in our metropolis, ail 
understanding the Arabic language ; when, with 
a knowledge of this language, a person may 
travel and hold colloquial intercourse with the 
inhabitants of Turkey, with the greater part of 
Asia, and with Africa ; and, lastly, when we 
consider the valuable and immense stores of 
Arabian literature, of the best periods which 
still remain unexplored, is it not remarkable 
under all the exciting circumstances above 
enumerated, that in this powerful and opulent 
country, there should not be found, with all 
our boasted learning and eagerness of research, 
three or four Englishmen capable of waiting and 
conversing intelligibly in that beautiful and 
useful language ? The extent of this disgraceful 
ignorance would be scarcely credible, were 
there not proofs beyond doubt, that our prin- 
cipal seats of learning are as deficient in this 
knowledge as the public in general a , and U'lat 

* See page 408. respecting a letter sent to our late 
revered Sovereign, by the Emperor of Maiocco. In con- 
sequence of the inattention to that letter, the Emperor de- 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



letters or public documents written in that lan- 
guage, have been in vain sent to thern for 
translation. What I have long considered as 
chiefly tending to diminish the desire of ac- 
quiring this language, is an opinion dogmati- 
cally asserted, and diligently propagated, that 
the Arabic of the East and West are so different 
from each other, as almost to form distinct 
languages, and to be unintelligible to the inha- 
bitants of either of those regions respectively ; 
but, having always doubted the truth of this 
assertion, I have endeavoured, from time to time, 
during the last ten years, to ascertain whether 
the Arabic language spoken in Asia be the same 
with that which is spoken in Africa, (westward 
to the shores of the Atlantic ocean, J but without 
success, and even without the smallest satis- 
factory elucidation, until the arrival in London 



termined never to write again to a Christian king in the 
Arabic language ; and, with regard to Great Britain, I believe 
he has faithfully ever since kept his word ! Some time before 
this letter was written, I being then in Marocco, the Em- 
peror's minister asked me if the Emperor his master were to 
write an Arabic letter to the Sultan George Sultan El Ingleez, 
(these were his expressions,) whether there were persons 
capable of translating it into English: I replied, that there 
were men at the Universities capable of translating every 
learned language in the known world ; and accordingly the 
letter above alluded to was written in Arabic, and addressed 
to His Majesty. This letter was written by the Emperor 
himself, which I am competent to declare, having letters 
from him in my possession, and being acquainted with his 
hand-writing and style. 



ON AFRICA. 



473 



last winter, of the most Reverend Doctor Giarve, 
Bishop of Jerusalem, who has given such 
incontestible proofs of his proficiency in the 
Arabic language, that his opinion on this im- 
portant point cannot but be decisive ; accord- 
ingly, on presenting to the reverend Doctor some 
letters from the Emperor of Marocco to me, 
desiring that he would oblige me with his 
opinion, whether the Arabic in those letters was 
the same with that spoken in Syria, the Rev. 
Doctor replied in the following perspicuous 
manner, which, I think, decides the question : 
" / can assure you, that the language and the 
idiom of the Arabic in these letters from the Em- 
peror of Marocco to you, is precisely the same 
With that which is spoken in the East." 

It is, therefore, thus ascertained, that the 
Arabic language spoken in the kingdom of 
Tafilelt, of Fas, of Marocco, and in Suse or 
South Barbary, is precisely the same language 
with that which is now spoken in Syria, and 
Palestine in Asia ; countries distant from each 
other nearly 3000 miles, and from information 
since obtained, there appears to be no douht 
that the Arabic language spoken by the Arabs 
in Arabia, by the Moors and Arabs in India 
and Madagascar, by the Moorish nations on 
the African shores of the Mediterranean, are 
one and the same language with that spoken in 
Marocco, subject only to certain provincial 
peculiarities, which by no means form impedi- 
ments to the general understanding of the lan- 



474 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



guage, no more, or not so much so, as the pro- 
vincial peculiarities of one county of England 
differ from another ! ! 

Unwilling to encroach too much on your 
valuable pages, I will leave, for the subject of 
my next letter, the inconceivable misconstruc- 
tions and errors into which the ignorance of this 
language has led European travellers in Africa, 
of which I shall state some examples in a recent 
publication respecting Africa. 

I am, Sir, 
Your most obedient Servant, 

James G. Jackson. 



Cursory Observations on the Geography of Africa, inserted 
in a?i Account of a Mission to Ashantee, by T. Edward 
Bowdich, Esq. showing the Errors that have been com- 
mitted by European Travellers on that Continent, from 
their Ignorance of the Arabic Language, the learned 
and the general travelling Language of that interesting 
part of the Worlds 

June 17, 1819. 

The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibber, was 
invariably described as dividing in two large 
streams. — Vide " Bowdich's Account of a Mis- 
sion to Ashantee/' p. 187. 

The Lake Dibber is called in the proceedings 
of the African Association Dibbie, but the proper 
appellation is El Bahar Tibber, or El Bahar 
Dehebbie. The Bahar Tibber signifies the sea 
of gold dust ; the Bahar Dehebbie signifies the sea 



ON AFRICA. 



475 



or water abounding in gold. Jinnee, which is on 
or near the shore of this lake, (I call it a lake 
because it is fresh water,) abounds in gold, and is 
renowned throughout Africa for the ingenuity of 
its artificers in that metal, insomuch that they 
acknowledge the superiority of Europeans in all 
arts except that of gold work. There are some 
specimens of Jinnee gold trinkets, very correctly 
delineated in the recent interesting work of 
" Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence's Journal of a 
Route across India, through Egypt to England," 
p. 496. 

Page I87, " Yahoodie, a place of great trade." 

This place is reported to be inhabited by one 
of the lost tribes of Israel, possibly an emigration 
from the tribe of Judah. Yahooda, in African 
Arabic, signifies Judah. Yahoodee signifies Jew- 
It is not impossible, that many of the lost tribes 
of Israel may be found dispersed in the inte- 
rior regions of Africa, when we shall become 
better acquainted with that Continent ; it is cer- 
tain, that some of the nations that possessed the 
country eastward of Palestine when the Israelites 
were a favoured nation, have emigrated to Africa. 

An emigration of the Amorites a are now in 
possession of the declivity of the Atlas Moun- 
tains, westward of the sanctuary 5 of Muley Driss, 
and in the neighbourhood of the ruins of Pha- 
raoh ; they live in encampments, consisting of 

4 They are called Ite-amor, Amor-ite. 
b Vide Jack&on's Account of Marocco, chap. viii. enlarged 
edition. 



476 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



two, three, or four tents each : they resemble the 
Arabs of the Desert in their predatory excur- 
sions. I speak from practical knowledge, having 
twice travelled through their country, and visited 
their encampments. 

Page 189. " Mr. Beaufoy's Moor says, that 
below Ghinea is the sea into which the river of 
Timbuctoo discharges itself." 

This might have been understood to signify 
the sea of Sudan, if the Moor had not said 
below Ghinea, (by which is meant Genowa, or 
as we call it Guinea,) which implies, that the 
Neel El Abeed (Niger) discharges itself in the 
sea that washes the coast of Guinea ; this, there- 
fore, corroborates Seedi Hamed's, or rather 
Richard's hypothesis. 

Page 190. " This branch of the Niger passing 
Timbuctoo, is not crossed until the third day 
going from Timbuctoo to Houssa." 

This quotation from " Dapper's Description 
of Africa," is corroborated by L'Hage Abd- 
salam, Shabeeni, whose narrative says, " Sha- 
beeni, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, 
departed for Houssa, and crossing the small river 
close to the walls, reached the Neel in three days, 
travelling through a fine, populous, and cultivated 
country." 

The confusion of rivers, made more equivocal 
by every new hypothesis, receives here additional 
ambiguity. If there were (as Mr. Bowdich af- 
firms) three distinct rivers near Timbuctoo ; viz. 
the Joliba, the Gambarro, and the Niger, (1. e. 



ON AFRICA. 



477 



the Neel El Abeed) how comes it that they have 
not been noticed by Leo Africanus, who resided 
at Timbuctoo; by Edrissi, who is the most cor- 
rect of the Arabian geographers ; or whence is 
it, that these rivers have not been noticed by the 
many Moorish travelling merchants who have 
resided at Timbuctoo, and whom I have repeat- 
edly questioned respecting this matter c , or 
whence is it that Alkaid L'Hassen Ramy, a re- 
nowned chief of the Emperor of Marocco's army, 
with x whom I was well acquainted, and who was 
a native of Houssa, knew of no such variously 
inclined streams. This being premised, I am 
certainly not disposed to relinquish the opinion 
I brought with me from Africa in the year 1807, 
viz. that the Neel El Abeed is the only mighty 
river that runs through Africa from west to east ; 
but I admit that its adjuncts, as well as itself, 
have different names ; thus, in the manuscript 
of Mr. Park's death, a copy of which is inserted 
in " Mr. Bowdich's Account of Ashantee," it is 
called Kude ; many hundred miles eastward it 
is called Kulla, from the country through which 
it passes ; but Kude and Kulla are different 

c The Arabs who conduct the cqfelahs or caravans across 
the Sahara, are often seen at Agadeer or Santa Cruz, and 
sometimes even at Mogodor ; and if there was a river pene- 
trating to the north through the Sahara, would it not have 
been noticed by them ? Is it possible that such a prominent 
feature of African geography, as a river of sweet water 
passing through a desert, could fail of being noticed by 
these people, who are, in their passage through the Desert, 
continually in search of water ? 



478 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



names, and ought not to be confounded one with 
the other ; neither ought Quolia (i. e. the Negro 
pronunciation of Kulla) to be confounded with 
Kude, the former being the Negro term for the 
same river, in the same manner as Niger is the 
Roman name for the Neel Elabeed, which is the 
Arabic name for the same river. There is a 
stream which proceeds from the Sahara, the 
water of which is brackish : this stream hardly 
can be called a river, except in the rainy season. 
It passes in a south-westerly direction near Tim- 
buctoo, but does not join the Neel Elabeed. I 
could mention several intelligent and credible 
authorities, the report of respectable mer- 
chants, who have resided, and who have had 
establishments at Timbuctoo, in confirmation 
of this fact ; but as the authorities which I 
should adduce would be unknown, even by 
name, to men of science in Europe, I would 
refer the reader to the interesting narrative of 
an intelligent Moorish merchant, who resided 
three years at Timbuctoo, and who was known 
to the committee of the African Association ; 
this travelling merchant's name is L'Hage 
Abdsalam Shabeeny, and his narrative, a manu- 
script of which (with critical and explanatory 
notes by myself) I have in my possession, has 
the following observation : f — " Close to the town 
of Timbuctoo, on the south, is a small rivulet 
in which the inhabitants wash their clothes, and 



b'ee page 8. 



ON AFRICA. 



479 



which is about two feet deep ; it runs into the 
great forest on the east, and does not commu- 
nicate with the Nile, but is lost in the sands west 
of the town : its water is brackish ; that of the 
Nile is good and pleasant." 

Page 199. Mr. Murray recently observes, 
" Joliba seems readily convertible into Joli-ba, 
the latter syllable being merely an adjunct, sig- 
nifying river ; this 1 was also given to under- 
stand." 

This is an etymological error. The Joliba is 
not a compound word, if it were it would be 
Bahar Joli, not Bajoli, or Joliba ; thus do learned 
men, through a rage for criticism, and for want 
of a due knowledge of African languages, render 
confused, by fancied etymologies, that which is 
sufficiently clear and perspicuous. 

Page 191. " The river of Darkulla mentioned 
by Mr. Brown." 

This is evidently an error : there is probably 
no such place or country as Darkulla. There is, 
however, an alluvial country denominated Bahar 
Kulla, (for which see the map of Africa in the 
Supplement of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, 
p. 88. lat. N. 8°, long. E. 20°). I apprehend this 
Darkulla, when the nations of Europe shall be 
better acquainted with Africa and its languages, 
will be discovered to be a corruption of Bahar 
Kulla, or an unintelligible and ungrammatical 
term : Deaar Kulla is grammatical, and implies a 
country covered with houses ! Dar Kulla is an 
ungrammatical and an incorrect term, which being 



480 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



literally translated into English, signifies many 
house. This being premised, we may reasonably 
suppose, that Bahar Kulla is the proper term 
which, as I have always understood, forms the 
junction of the Nile of the west with the Nile 
of the east, and hence forming a continuity d of 
waters from Timbuctoo to Cairo. 

191. In this geographical dissertation the 
word Niger is still used, which is a name altoge- 
ther unknown in Africa, and calculated to con- 
fuse the geographical enquirer. As this word is 
unintelligible to the natives of Africa, whether 
they be Arabs, Moors, Berebbers, Shelluhs, or 
Negroes, ought it not to be expunged from 
the maps ? 

P. 192. In the note in this page, " Jackson's 
Report of the source of the Neel el Abeed, and 
the Source of the Senegal," is confirmed by the 
Jinnee Moor. — See Jackson's Appendix to his 
Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, p. 311. 

" It is said, that thirty days from Timbuctoo 
they eat their prisoners !" Does not this allude 
to Banbugr e , and has not this word been cor- 
rupted by Europeans into Bambarra. See Mr. 

d See my letter in the Monthly Magazine for March, 1817, 
page 128. 

c The Gr in Banbugr, is the Arabic letter, grain. Richard- 
son, in his Arabic Grammar, renders this letter gh ; which 
demonstrates, that his knowledge of the Arabic was only 
scholastic, not practical. It has no resemblance or affinity 
to gh, and would be unintelligible if so pronounced to an 
Arab. 



ON AFRICA. 



481 



Bowdich's MS. No. 3, p. 486 ; Banbugr, who eat 
the flesh of men. Jackson's translation. 

Page 193. The government of Jinnee appears 
to be Moorish ; because Malai Smaera, which 
should be written Mulai Smaera, signifies in the 
Arabic language, the Prince Smaera : the term 
does not belong to Negroes, but exclusively to 
Muhamedans. Malai Bacharoo is a Negro cor- 
ruption of the word ; it should be Mulai, or 
Mulct/ Bukaree ; i. e. the Abeed Mulai Bukaree, 
or Aheed Seedi Bukaree. They are well known 
among the Negroes of Sudan ; the Negroes of 
this race form the present body-guard of the 
Emperor of Marocco's troops, consisting of 5000 
horse. They are dexterous in the management 
of the horse, are well-disciplined troops, and are 
the only military in the Emperor's army that can 
cope with the Berebbers of the Atlas. 

Note, p. 194. Dapper's description of Africa 
is here quoted in confirmation of the decay of 
Timbuctoo ; and Jackson is accused of extrava- 
gance. The latter I shall pass over, it being an 
assertion unsupported by any substantial testi- 
mony; but immediately afterwards is the fol- 
lowing passage. 

" The three last kings before Billa (i. e. Bil- 
labahada) were Osamana, e. Osaman ; Osa- 
mana being the feminine gender,) Dawoloo, and 
Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woolo 
reigning in 1800 ; and a Moor who had come 
from Timbuctoo to Comassee ten years ago 
(viz. about 1807, or ten years before Mr. Bow* 



482 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



dich visited Ashantee), did not know King WooJo 
was dead, as he was reigning at the time he left 
Timbuctoo." 

With regard to Dapper's assertion, it should 
be remembered, that if Timbuctoo was decaying 
in his time, that is about the period that Mnley 
Ismael ascended the throne of Marocco, viz. in 
1672 ; it revived very soon after, that is before 
the close of the 17th century. This powerful 
and warlike prince had the address to establish 
and to maintain a very strong garrison at Tim- 
buctoo ; and accordingly, during his long reign 
of fifty-five years, viz. from I672 to 1727, Tim- 
buctoo carried on a constant, extensive, and lu- 
crative trade with Marocco, Tafilelt, and Fas, 
in gold dust, gum-sudan, ostrich-feathers, ivory, 
and slaves, &c. Akkabahs e , and cqfilahs, or cara- 
vans, were going continually from Timbuctoo to 
Tafilelt, Marocco, Fas, and Terodant. Travel- 
ling across the Desert was then as safe as it is 
now in the plains of Marocco, or on the roads 
in England ; the only months during which the 
caravans did not travel were July and August, 
because the Skume, or hot wind of the Desert, 
prevails during these two months. It is reported, 
that Muley Ismael was so rich in gold, that the 
bolts of the gates of his palaces, and his kitchen 
utensils, were of pure gold. Timbuctoo con- 
tinued to carry on a most lucrative trade with 

' An Akkabah is an accumulation of many cafilahs or 
caravans. 



ON AFRICA. 



483 



Marocco, &c. ; during the reign of the Emperor 
Muley Abd Allah, son and successor of Ismael, 
and also during the reign of Seedy f Muhamed 
ben Abd Allah, who died about the year 1795, 
a sovereign universally regretted, and hence 
aptly denominated the father of his people: since 
the decease of Seedy g Muhamed ben Abd Allah, 
the father of the reigning emperor, Muley Soli- 
man, the trade of Sudan has rapidly decreased, 
because the policy of the present emperor is, to 
discourage commerce, but to encourage the agri- 
culture and the manufactures of his own coun- 
try, so as to make them sufficient for itself, and 
independent of foreign supplies ! 

Da Woolo is a reverential term, and is syno- 
nimous with Woolo, signifying King Woolo. 

Park says, Mansong was king of Timbuctoo 
in 1796, and in 1805, implying that he reigned 
from 1796 to 1805. The Moor before men- 
tioned, who came from Timbuctoo to Comassie 
in 1807, told Mr. Bowdich, that Woolo was then 
reigning at Timbuctoo. Isaaco says, Woolo was 
predecessor to Mansong ; consequently, accord- 
ing to this Jew, Woolo was king before the year 

f It should be observed, that an emperor having the name 
of the Arabian prophet, is called Seedy ; but having any 
other name, he is called Muley ; the former signifies master, 
the latter, prince. 

8 If therefore the trade with Timbuctoo declined in Leo's 
time, i. e. A. D. 1570, it unquestionably revived in Ismael's 
reign, and also continued with but little diminution during 
the reign of his son Abd Allah, and his grandson Muhamed. 



484 



VARIOUS LETTERS. 



1796 ; therefore, if Mr. Park's testimony be cor- 
rect, Woolo must have been predecessor and suc- 
cessor to Mansong ; otherwise, Mr. Park was in- 
correct in saying that Mansong was king of Tim- 
buctoo in 1796, and in 1805. Adams says, Woolo 
was king of Timbuctoo in 1810, and was old and 
grey-headed. Riley's narrative also confirms 
his age and grey hairs. With regard to my tes- 
timony, viz. that Woolo was king b of Timbuctoo 
in 1800, I had it from two merchants of veracity, 
who returned from Timbuctoo in 1800, after re- 
siding there 14 years : they are both alive now, 
and reside at Fas ; their names I would mention, 
were I not apprehensive that it might lead to a 
reprimand from the emperor, and create jealousy 
for having communicated intelligence respecting 
the interior of the country. I should not have 
entered into this detail in confirmation of my 
assertion that Woolo was king of Timbuctoo in 
1800, if the editor of the Supplement to the En- 
cyclopedia Britannica (article Africa), had not 
asserted, that I have committed an anachronism 
in asserting, that he was king in that year; 
thereby insinuating that Park was right, and that 
I was wrong. 

Page 195. The Editor of Adams's Narrative 
is, I apprehend, incorrect in asserting, that the 
name Fatima affords no proof that the queen, or 
the wife of Woolo, was a Muhamedan. Fatima 

h See my Letter on the Interior of Africa, in the Anti- 
Jacobin Review for January, 1818, p. 4-53. 



ON AFRICA. 



485 



is incontestably an Arabian proper name ; and it 
would be considered presumption in a Negress 
unconverted to Muselmism, to assume the name 
of Fatima. She must, therefore, have been ne- 
cessarily a Mooress, or a converted Negress ; the 
name has nothing to do with a numeral, as Mr. 
Bowdich suggests, and above all not with the 
numeral Jive, for that is a number ominous of 
evil in Africa, and as such, would never have 
been bestowed as a name on a beloved wife. 

Page 196. Note of W. Hutchison, " The 
four greatest monarchs known on the banks of 
the Quolla, are Baharnoo, Santambool, Malisi- 
miel, and Malla, or Mallowa." 

Baharnoo should be written Ber Noh ; i. e. the 
country of Noah the patriarch; it is called 
in the maps Bernoo, and the whole passage 
is calculated greatly to confuse African geo- 
graphy. The information is unquestionably 
derived from Negro authority, and that not 
of the most authentic kind. Santambool is 
the Negro corruption of Strambool, which is the 
Arabic name for Constantinople: Malisimiel 
is the Negro corruption of Muley Ismael. 1 The 
first signifies the empire of Constantinople ; the 
second signifies the empire of Muley Ismael, who 
was emperor of Marocco in the early part of the 
18th century, and whose authority was acknow- 
ledged at Timbuctoo, where he maintained a 

1 See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii. p. 295, and note, 
p. 296. 



486 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



strong garrison, and held the adjacent country 
in subjection, where his name is held in reve- 
rence to this day. This being premised, it fol- 
lows of course, that one of these four great mo- 
narchies here alluded to, viz. that of Santambool 
is certainly not on the Quolla, unless the Quolla 
be considered the same river with the Egyptian 
Nile, and that Egypt be considered a part of the 
empire of Santambool ; then, and then only, can 
it be said, that the empire of Santambool is si- 
tuated on the Quolla. 

Page 198. Two large lakes were described 
close to the northward of Houssa; one called 
Balahar Sudan, and the other Gimgi Maragasee ; 
the first of these names is a Negro corruption, 
or an European corruption of the term Bahar 
Sudan k ; the other is a Negro name of another, 
if not of the same lake or sea. The situation of 
the Bahar Sudan is described by me in the 13th 
chapter, in my account of Marocco, to be 
fifteen journeys east of Timbuctoo, and the 
Neel El Abeed passes through it. I had this 
information from no less than seven Moorish 
merchants of intelligence and veracity ; the same 
is confirmed by Ali Bey l , the Shereef Imham- 
med, Park, and Dr. Seitzen ; all these authori- 
ties must therefore fall to the ground if Mr. Bow- 
dich's report is to overturn these testimonies, 

k See Jackson's Marocco, chap. xiii. 

1 For an elucidation of these opinions, see my Letter on 
the Interior of Africa, in the European Magazine, Feb. 1818, 
page 113. 



ON AFRICA. 



487 



which has placed it three degrees of latitude 
north of the Neel El Abeed, or m Neel Assudan, 
and in the Sahara n , unconnected with any river ! 
I doubt if any, but a very ignorant Pagan Negro 
(for the Muhamedan Negroes are more intel- 
ligent), would have given the Sea of Sudan this 
novel situation. 

Page 200. The Quolla appears to be the Negro 
pronunciation of the Arabic name Kulla ; i. e. 
the Bahar Kulla, to which the Neel Assudan is 
said to flow. Bahar Kidla is an Arabic word 
signifying the sea altogether, or an alluvial coun- 
try. The Neel Assudan here joins the waters of 
a river that proceed westward from the Aby- 
sinian Nile, and hence is formed the water com- 
munication between Cairo and Timbuctoo. 

Page 201. Quolla Raba, or Kulla Raba, sig- 
nifies the Kulla forest, as the Negroes express it ; 
the Arabs call it Raba Kulla, i. e. the forest of 
Kulla. If any further proof of the accuracy of 
this interpretation be necessary, it may be added, 
that the position agrees exactly with Major Ren- 
nell's kingdom of Kulla, for which see the Major's 
map in proceedings of the African Association, 
vol. i. page 209, lat. N. 9°, long. W. 10. 

m Neel Sudan and Neel Assudan are synonymous, the as 
being the article. 

n See Mr. Bowdich's Map, in his Account of a Mission to 
Ashantee. 

° See Jackson's Account of Marocco, enlarged edition, 
p. 313. See also his Letter to the Editor of the Monthly 
Magazine for March, 1817, p. 125. 



488 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



Page 208. The lake Fittri is a lake, the waters 
of which are said to be filtered through the earth, 
as the name implies. The Nile is here said to run 
under ground. The Arabs and Moors have a 
tradition, that the waters of Noah's flood rested 
here, and were absorbed and filtered through the 
earth, leaving only this large lake. I never un- 
derstood this sea to be identified with the Bahar 
Helmed ; i. e, the Hot or Warm Sea. The 
Hot Sea and the Filtered Sea are distinct waters $ 
the former lies about mid-way, in a right line 
between Lake Fittri and Lake Dwi. (See Laurie 
and Whittle's Map of Africa, published in 1813.) 
This is another inaccuracy of Mr. Hutchison j 
who appears, indeed, to have collected inform- 
ation from natives, without considering what title 
they had to credibility. Another error is added 
to the note in page 203 and 204, viz. what he 
calls sweet beans are unquestionably dates, which 
have not the least affinity in taste, shape, growth, 
or quality, to beans. The Arabic name cor- 
rectly converted into European letters, is timmer, 
not tummer. The Arabic words designating 
sweet beans, is Elfool El Hellue. The passage 
signed William Hutchison here alluded to, is 
this : " The Arabs eat black rice, corn, and sweet 
beans called tummer." 

Note, page 204. I do not know whence the 
Quarterly Review has derived its information 

Helmed is an Arabic term, signifying that degree of heat 
which milk has when coming from the cow or goat. 



ON AFRICA. 



489 



respecting the derivation of the word Misr (a 
corruption of Massar) ; the word Massar is com- 
pounded of the two Arabic words Ma and Sar ; 
i. e. Mother of Walls. Possibly some Arabic 
professor versed in bibliographic lore, to favor a 
darling hypothesis, has transmuted Massar into 
Misr, to strengthen the plausibility of the ety- 
mology of Misr from Misraem ! ! 

Note, page 205. Bahar beta ma is an Arabic 
expression, importing it to be a country once 
covered with water, but now no longer so. In the 
note in this page, I recognise the word Sooess to 
designate the Isthmus of Suez. The Bahar Malee, 
and the Sebaha Bahoori, are Negro corruptions of 
the Arabic words Bahar El Maleh> and Seba 
Baharet: the former does not apply particularly 
to the Mediterranean, but is a term applicable to 
any sea or ocean that is salt (as all seas and oceans 
assuredly are) ; the latter term signifies literally, 
the Seven Seas or Waters : neither is this a term 
applicable to the Mediterranean, but to any 
sea supplied by seven rivers, as the Red Sea : 
these, therefore, are evidently other inaccuracies 
of Mr. Hutchison. I apprehend Mr. Hutchi- 
son's Arabic tutor at Ashantee was not an eru- 
dite scholar. The term, and the only term in 
Africa, applicable to the Mediterranean Sea, is 
the Bahar Segrer (literally the Small Sea) ; and 
El Bahar El Kabeer (is the Atlantic Ocean, or 
literally the Great Sea) ; the latter is sometimes 
figuratively called the Bahar Addolum, i. e. the 
Unknown Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. 



490 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



Note, p. 206. Is it possible that the author 
doubts that Wangara is east of Timbuctoo? It 
should seem that he did, as he quotes Mr. Hut- 
chison as authority for making it to contain 
Kong, a mountainous district many journeys 
south of the Neel Assudan. Mr. Park's testi- 
mony is also called in support of this opinion, 
but they are both erroneous. Wangara is as 
well known in Africa to be east of Timbuctoo, 
as in England York is known to be North of 
of London. 

Oongooroo is a barbarous Negro corruption of 
Wangara; therefore, this note, if suffered to 
pass through the press unnoticed, would be cal- 
culated to confuse, not to elucidate, African 
geography ; neither can it be called, according 
to Mr. Horneman's orthography, Ungura: the 
name is Wangara which cannot be converted 
accurately into any word but Wangara. Ungura 
Oongooroo, &c. are corruptions of the proper 
name, originating in an imperfect, and but an 
oral knowledge of the African Arabic. 

Page 210. I apprehend the reason why Was- 
senah was not known at Ashantee by the traders, 
is because it was out of their trading track. J 
have no doubt of the existence of Wassenah or 
Massenah (for when the names of African towns 
and countries are recorded, we should not be 
particular about a letter or two, when we find 
so many orthographical variations are made by 
different authors) ; neither is there any reason 
(that I know of) to doubt the description of 



ON AFRICA. 



491 



Wassenah given in Riley's Narrative ; but it is 
not extraordinary, that this place should be un- 
known at Ashantee, if there were no commerce 
or communication between these countries re- 
spectively ; it is certain, that the Africans nei- 
ther know, seek, or care, for places or coun- 
tries with which they have no trade or commu- 
nication. 

It appears well deserving of observation (for 
the purpose of rendering Arabic names intelli- 
gible to future African travellers), that Mr. Bow- 
dich has demonstrated that, what is called in our 
maps, 1. Bambarra, 2. Gimbala, 3. Sego, 4. Ber- 
ghoo, 5. Begarmee, being written in the Arabic 
language, with the guttural letter grain, would 
be quite unintelligible, if pronounced to an Afri- 
can as they are xvritten by our letters, the nearest 
approximation to the Arabic words would be 
as follows, taking Gr for the nearest similitude 
that our alphabet affords to the guttural letter 
^ grain. 

Correct Pronunciation. African Orthography. Called in the Maps. 



1. Banbug'r 



Bambara. 



2. Grimbala 




Gimbala. 



3. Shagr'u 

4. Bergr'n 

5. Bagrarmee 




Sego 

Berghoo. 

Begarmee. 



492 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



The African traveller should be precise in his 
attention to the sound of these words, otherwise 
he will be quite unintelligible to the Africans, and 
to the Muhamedans. 

Richardson, in his Arabic Grammar, is cer- 
tainly incorrect, when he says, the letter '^grairi 

should be pronounced gk. No one acquainted 
practically with the Arabic language, could pos- 
sibly be of this opinion ; gh having no more re- 
semblance to the sound of the letter ^grain, than 

g has to k : and every traveller going to Africa 
with this erroneous opinion, will, undoubtedly, 
be unintelligible to the Africans. 

Finally, the Arabic document, if it may be per- 
mitted to call it Arabic, facing page 128 of this in- 
teresting work of Mr. Bowdich, is a most miser- 
able composition of Lingua franca, or corrupt 
Spanish, of unintelligible jargon, consisting of 
many words quite unintelligible to the Africans, 
whether Negroes or Moors, or others. The lan- 
guage of this document, although it has some 
Arabic words in it, is worse, if possible, than the 
scrawl in which it is written ; neither is it a cor- 
rect translation of the English which precedes it. 
But purporting to be a letter issued from the 
accredited servants of the King of the English, it 
is certainly a disgrace to the country from whence 
it issues, and a rare specimen of our knowledge 
of the Arabic languaage. 



James Grey Jackson. 



ON AFRICA. 



493 



Commercial Intercourse with the Interior of Africa. 

TO THE EDITOR OF THE JOURNAL OF TRADE, &C. 

Sir, Eton, June 30, 1818, 

The last expedition from Sierra Leone, in ad- 
dition to many others sent out for the purpose 
of exploring the interior of Africa, having failed, 
and^the enterprising and persevering Mr.Burck- 
hardt, having frustrated the well grounded 
hopes of the African Association, by his having 
paid the debt of nature, it is not improbable 
that His Majesty's government will now direct 
their attention with energy to the only plan that 
can possibly make that interesting and extra- 
ordinary country a jewel in the British croxvn. 

This important discovery, which would im- 
mortalise the prince, who should cherish it to 
its maturity, can be effected only through the 
medium of commerce. But it should be at- 
tempted not only with energy and decision, but 
with dispatch, before the enterprising and com- 
mercial spirit of a foreign power (seeing how 
abortive our efforts have been), shall snatch 
from us the glorious opportunity now offered of 
laying open the interior regions of Africa to the 
commercial enterprise of Great Britain. 
I am, Sir, 
Your most obedient servant, 

Vasco de Gama. 



494 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



The following curious Memoir was composed by Edmund 
Hogan, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lately found 
amongst the papers of one of his descendants. 

(a true copy.) 

tc The Embassage of Mr. Edmund Hogan, one of the 
Sworne Esquires of her Ma'fs Person, from her High- 
nesse to Muley Abdelmelech, Emperour of Morocco, 
and King of Fes and Sus, in the Yeare 1577. 
Written by himself e. 

" I Edmund Hogan, being appointed Embas- 
sador from the Queens Ma'tie to the above- 
named Emperour and King Muley Abdelmelech, 
departed with my company and servants from 
London the 22d April, 1577* being imbarked 
in the good ship called the Gallion, of London, 
and arrived in Azafi, a port of Barbary, the 
21st of May next following. Immediately I 
sent Leonell Egerton ashoare with my letters 
directed to John Williams and John Bampton, 
who dispatched a courier to Morocco to know 
the Kings pleasure for my repair e to the court, 
which letters came to theire hands on the 
Thursday night, They with all speed gave the 
King understanding of it, who being glad 
thereof, speeded the next day certaine captaines, 
with souldiers and tents, with other provision, 
to Azafi ; so that upon Whitsunday at night, 
the said captaines, with John Bampton, Robert 



ON AFRICA. 



49o 



YV r ashbome, arid Robert Lion, and the Kings 
officers, came late to Azafi. In the meane time 
I remained aboard, and caused some of the 
goods to be discharged, for lightning of the 
ship ; and I wrote in my letter that I would not 
lande 'till I knew the Kings pleasure. The 
26th day, being Saturday, the Mark-speed 
arrived in the roade about two of the clock in the 
afternoone. The 27th day, being Whitsunday, 
came aboard the Gallion, John Bampton, and 
others, giving me to understand how much the 
Ki ng rejoyced of ray safe arrival!, coming from 
the Queens Ma'tie ; and how that for my safe 
conduct to the court he had sent four captaines, 
and an hundred souldiers well appointed, with 
a horse furnished, which he used himself to ride 
on, with all other furniture accordingly ; they 
wished me also to come on land in the best 
order I could, as w r ell for my self as my men, 
which I did, having to the number of ten men, 
whereof three were trumpeters. The ships 
being four, appointed themselves in the best 
order they could, for the best shew, and shott 
off all theire ordinance, to the value of twenty 
marks in powder. At my coming ashoare, I 
found all the souldiers well appointed on horse- 
back, the captaines and the Govern'r of the 
towne standing as neer the water side as they 
could, with a jennet of the Kings, and rec'd 
me from the boate, declaring how glad his Ma' tie 
was of my safe arrivall, coming from the Queens 
Ma'tie my Mistresse, and that he had sent them 



496 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



to attend upon me, it being his pleasure that I 
should tame there on shoare five or six dayes 
for my refreshing ; so being mounted upon the 
jennet, they conducted me through the towne 
into a faire fielde upon the sea side, where there 
was a tent provided for me, and all the ground 
spread with Turkie carpets, and the castle dis- 
charged a peale of ordinance, and all things 
neces^arie were brought into my tent, where I 
both tooke my table and lodging, and had ether 
convenient tents for my servants. The souldiers 
inviron'd the tents, and watched about us day 
and night as long as I lay there, altho' I sought 
my speedier dispatch. On the Wednesday 
towards night, I tooke my horse, and travelled 
ten miles to the first place of water that wee 
could finde, and there pitched our tents 'till the 
next morning, and so traveled till ten of the 
clock, and then pitched our tents 'till four, and 
so traveled as long as day light would suffer, 
about twenty-six miles that day. The next day 
being Fryday, I traveled in like order but eight 
and twenty miles at the most; and by a p river, 
being about six miles within sight of the Citty 
of Morocco, wee pitched our tents. Imediately 
after came all our English Merchants, and the 
French on horseback, to meete me j and before 
night there came an Alcayde from the King 
with fiftie men, and divers mules laden with 
victuall and banket for my supper, declaring 



p The Tensift. 



ON AFRICA. 



497 



unto me how glad the King shewed himselfe 
to hear of the Queens Ma'tie, and that his 
pleasure was I should be received into his 
countrey as never any Christian the like ; and 
desired to know what time the next day I would 
come into his Citie, because he would that all 
the Christians, as also his Nobilitie, should 
meete me ; and willed John Bampton to be 
with him early in the morning, which he did. 
About seven of the clock, being accompanied 
with the French and English Merchants, and a 
great number of souldiers, I passed towards the 
Citie, and by that time I had traveled two miles, 
there met me all the Christians of the Spaniards 
and Portugals to receive me, which I know was 
more by the Kings commandment then of any 
good wills of themselves ; for some of them, 
although they speake me faire, hung downe 
theire heads like dogs, and especially the Por- 
tugals ; and I countenanced them accordingly. 
So I passed on, 'till I came within two English 
miles of the Citie ; and then John Bampton re- 
turned, shewing me that the King was so glad 
of my coming, that he could not devise to doe 
too much, to shew the good will that he did owe 
to the Queens Ma' tie and her Realme. His 
counsellors met me without the gates ; and at 
the entrie of the gates, his footmen and guard 
were placed on both sides of my horse, and so 
brought me to the King's palace. The King 
sate in his chaire, with his Counsell about him, 
as well the Moores as the Alkaids \ and, ac- 



498 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



cording to his order given unto me before, I 
there declared my message in Spanish, and made 
deliverie of the Queens Ma't's letters, and all 
that I spake at that present in Spanish, he 
caused one of his Alkaids to declare the same to 
the Moores present in the Arabic tongue ; 
which done, he answered me againe in Spanish, 
yeelding to the Queens Ma'tie great thankes, 
and offering himselfe and his countrey to be at 
her Graces comandment ; and he comanded 
certaine of his counsellors to conduct me to 
my lodging, not being farr from the Court. The 
house was faire, after the fashion of that countrey, 
being dayly well furnished with all kinde of 
victuall at the Kings charge. The same night 
he sent for me to the court, and I had con- 
ference with him about the space of two houres j 
where I throughly declared the charge eo'mitted 
unto me from her Ma'tie, finding him conform- 
able, willing to pleasure, and not to urge her 
Ma'tie with any demands, more then conve- 
niently she might willingly consent unto, hee 
knowing that out of his countrey the Realme of 
England might be better served with lackes, 
then he in comparison from us. Further, he 
gave me to understand, that the King of Spain 
had sent unto him for a licence that an Embas- 
sadour of his might come into his countrey, and 
had made great meanes, that if the Queens 
Ma'tie of England sent any unto him, that he 
would not give him any credit or entertainment; 
albeit (said he) I know what the King of Spaine, 



ON AFRICA. 



499 



and what the Queene of England and her 
realme is ; for I neither like of him, nor of his 
religion, being so governed by the Inquisition, 
that he can doe nothing of himselfe. There- 
fore, when he cometh upon the licence which 
I have granted, he shall well see how little 
account I will make of him and Spaine, and how 
greatly I will extoll you for the Queenes Ma 5 tie 
of England ; he shall not come to my presence 
as you have done, and shall dayly, for I minde 
to accept of you as my companion, and one of 
my house, whereas he shall attend twentie 
dayes after he hath done his message. After 
the end of this speech, I delivered Sir Thomas 
Gresham's letters ; when as he tooke me by the 
hand, and led me downe a long court to a 
palace, where there ranne a faire fountaine of 
water, and there sitting himselfe in a chaire, he 
comanded me to sitt downe in another, and 
there called for such simple musicians as he 
had. Then I presented him with a greate base 
lute s which he most thankfully accepted, and 
then he was desirous to hear of the musicians ; 
and I tolde him* that there was great care had 
to provide them, and that I did not doubt but 
upon my returne they should come with the 
first ship. He is willing to give them good 
entertainment, with provision of victuall, and 
to let them live according to theire law and con- 
science, wherein he urgeth none to the con- 
trary. I finde him to be one that liveth greatly 
in the fear of God, being well exercised in the 



500 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



Scriptures, as well in the Old Testament, as 
also in the New, and he beareth a greater 
affection to our nation then to others, because 
of our religion, which forbiddeth worship of 
idols ; and the Moores called him the Christian 
King. The same night, being the first of June, 
I continued with him till twelve of the clock, 
and he seemed to have so good likeing of me, 
that he tooke from his girdle a short dagger, 
being sett with 200 stones rubies and Turkies, 
and did bestowe it upon me ; and so I, being 
conducted, returned to my lodging for that time. 
The next day, because he knew it to be Sunday, 
and our Sabboth day, he did let me rest ; but on 
the Monday in the afternoon e he sent for me, 
and I had conference with him againe, and 
musick. Likewise on the Tuesday, by three of 
the clock, he sent for me into his garden, find- 
ing him layed upon a silk bed, complaining of 
a sore leg ; yet, after long conference, he 
walked into another orchard, whereas having a 
fair banketing house, and a great water, and a 
new gallie in it, he went aboard the gallie, and 
tooke me with him, and passed the space of two 
or three houres, shewing the great experience 
he had in gallies, wherein (as he said) he had 
exercised himselfe eighteene yeares in his youth. 
After supper he shewed me his horses, and 
other co'modities that he had about his house ; 
and since that night I have not seene him, for 
that he hath kept in with his sore legg ; but he 
hath sent to me dayly. The 13th of June, at 



ON AFRICA. 



501 



six of the clock at night, I had againe audience 
of the King, and I continued with him till mid- 
night, having debated, as well for the Queenes 
co'mission, as for the well-dealing with her 
merchants for their traffick here in these parts, 
saying, he would do much more for the Queenes 
Ma' tie and the Realme ; offering that all English 
ships with her subjects may with good securitie 
enter into his ports and dominions, as well in 
trade of merchandize, as for victuall and water, 
as also in time of warr with any of her enemies, 
to bring in prizes, and to make sales as occasion 
should serve, or else to depart againe with 
them at theire pleasure. Likewise for all English 
ships that shall passe along his Coast of Barbary, 
and threw the Streights into the Levant seas, 
and so to the Turks dominions, and the King 
of Algiers, as his owne ; and that he would 
write to the Turke, and to the King of Algiers, 
his letters for the well using of our ships and 
goods. Also, that hereafter no Englishman that 
by any meanes may be taken captives,, shall be 
sold within any of his dominions ; whereupon I 
declared that the Queenes Ma'tie, accepting of 
these his offers, was pleased to eonfirme the 
intercourse and trade of our Merchants within 
this his countrey, as also to pleasure him with 
such commodities as he should have need of, to 
furnish the necessities and wants of his country 
in trade of merchandize, so as he required 
nothing contrary to her honour and law, and 
the breach of league with the Christian Princes, 



502 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



her neighbours. The same night I presented 
the King with the case of combes, and desired 
his Ma'tie to have speciall regard that the ships 
might be laden back againe, for that 1 found 
little store of salt-peter in readinesse in John 
Bampton's hands ; he answered me, that I 
should have all the assistance therein that he 
could, but that in q Sus he thought to have some 
store in his house there, as also that the Moun- 
tainers had made much in a readinesse ; I re- 
quested that he would sende downe, which he 
promised to doe. The eighteenth day I was 
with him againe, and so continued there till 
night ; and he shewed me his house, with pas- 
time in ducking with water spaniels, and baiting 
bulls with his English doggs. At this time I 
moved him againe for the sending downe to 
Sus, which he granted to doe ; and the 24th 
day there departed Alcayde Mammie, with 
Lionell Egerton, and Rowland Guy, to Sus ; 
and carried with them, for our accounts and his 
company, the Kings letters to his brother Muly 
Hammet, and Alcayde Shavan, and the Viceroy. 
The 23d day the King sent me out of Morocco 
to his garden called Shersbonare, with his guard 
and Alcayde Mamoute ; and the 24th at night 
I came to the Court to see a Morris-dance, and 
a play of his Alkaids ; he promised me audience 
the next day, being Tuesday, but he putt it off 

q Great quantities of superior salt-petre are produced at 
Terodant in Suse. 



ON AFRICA. 



503 



'till Thursday ; and the Thursday at night I 
was sent for to the King after supper, and then 
he sent Alcayde Rodwan and Alcayde Gowry to 
conferr with me ; but, after a little talk, I de- 
sired to be brought to the King for my dispatch. 
And being brought to him, I preferred two 
bills of John Bampton's, which he had made 
for provision of salt -peter, also two bills for the 
quiet traffique of our English Merchants, and 
bills for sugars to be made by the Jewes, as well 
for the debts past, as hereafter, and for good 
order' in the Ingenios. Also I moved him againe 
for the salt-peter, and other dispatches, which 
he referred to be agreed upon by the two 
Alcaydes. But the Fryday, being the 20th, the, 
Alcaydes could not intend it, and upon Saturday 
Alcayde Rodwan fell sick; so on Sunday wee 
made meanes to the King, and that afternoone 
I was sent for to conferre upon the bargaine 
with the Alcaydes and others ; but did not agree. 
Upon Tuesday I wrote a letter to the King for 
my dispatch ; and the same afternoone I wa& 
called againe to the Court, and referred all 
things to the King, accepting his offer of salt- 
peter. That night againe the King had me into 
his gallie, and the spaniels did hunt the duck. 
The Thursday I was appointed to weigh the 
300 quintals grosse of salt-peter, and that after- 
noone the Tabybe came unto me to my lodging, 
shewing me that the King was offended with 
John Bampton for divers causes. The Sunday 
night late, being the 7th July, I got the King 



504. 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



to forgive all to John Bampton, and the King 
promised me to speake againe with me upon 
Monday. Upon Tuesday I wrote to him againe 
for my dispatch, and then he sent Fray Lewes 
to me, and said, that he had order to write. 
Upon Wednesday I wrote againe ; and he sent 
me word that I should come and be dispatched, 
so that I should depart upon Fryday without 
faile, being the 12th July. So the Fryday 
after, according to the Kings order and appoint- 
ment, I went to the Court ; and whereas motion 
and petition was made for the confirmac'on of 
the demands which I had preferred, they were 
all granted, and likewise which were on the 
behalfe of our English Merchants requested, 
were with great favour and readinesse 
yeilded unto. And whereas the Jewes there 
resident, were to our men in certaine round 
sum'es indebted, the Emperor's pleasure and 
co'mandment was, that they should without 
further excuse or delay pay and discharge the 
same. And thus at length I was dismissed 
with great honour and speciall countenance, 
such as hath not ordinarily bene shewed to other 
Embassadors of the Christians. And touching 
the private affairs intreated upon betwixt her 
Ma' tie and the Emperour, I had letters from him 
to satisfie her Highnesse therein. So to con- 
clude, having received the like honourable con- 
duct from his Court, as I had for my part at 
my first landing, 1 imbarked myself with my 
foresaid company \ and arriving not long after 



ON AFRICA. 



505 



in England, I repaired to her Ma'ties Court, 
and ended my embassage to her Highnesses 
good liking, with relation of my service per- 
formed." 



Letter from the Author to Macvey Napier, Esq. F. R. S. L. 
and E. 

Sir, London, 17th January, 1818. 

Having read, with considerable satisfaction, 
your very able and judicious dissertation respect- 
ing Africa, in the new Supplement to the Ency- 
clopedia Britannica, I will take the liberty to 
offer some animadversions that have occurred 
to me in the perusal of that very interesting 
article. 

Bahr Kulla I conceive to be an immerged 
country, of considerable extent, similar to Wan- 
gara j for the name, which is Arabic, implies as 
much. The correct orthography, translated lite- 
rally into English is Bahr Kulha, which signifies 
the sea, wholly or altogether, implying, therefore, 
an alluvial country. 

Respecting goat-skins dyed red or yellow, 
these are not brought by caravans from central 
Africa to Marocco, but are manufactured at 
Marocco, Fas, Mequinas, and Terodant the me- 
tropolis of Suse, from which manufactories they 
are conveyed to the interior regions for sale. 
Goat-skins, with the hair, in the raw state only, 
are exported from Mogodor to England. 



500 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



When Moore asserted that there was no such 
river as the Niger, he evidently meant that the 
natives of Africa knew it not by that name ; 
which is undoubtedly correct ; for the word being 
an European word, it would not be known in 
Africa : but its translation into Arabic is Bahar 
El Abeed, i. e. the river of Negroes. Edrissi 
called it Niger, from the same motive, viz. be- 
cause it was so named by Europeans, and by 
them only. 

I conceive that the hypothesis which has been 
credited by some, viz. that there is no receptacle 
for the two Niles, between Cashna and Timbuc- 
too, must now necessarily fall to the ground ; 
since the sea of Sudan, first declared by me to 
be between Cashna and Timbuctoo, and since 
confirmed by Ali Bey, and by Park, in his se- 
cond journey, can (as I apprehend) no longer 
be doubted : and it is not improbable that this is 
the common receptacle of the Nile of the West 
and the Nile of the East. This hypothesis is 
strengthened by the testimony of the Shereef 
Imhammed, who has said, that he himself saw 
the Nile, at Cashna, flowing so rapidly west- 
ward, that vessels could not stem the current. 
If this be true, the s Ba Sea Feena of Park, 
which is only another name for the Sea of Su- 
dan, must lie west of Cashna, and, probably, 
about the same point that it is stated by me to 

9 The Arabic orthography is Bahar Sfeena which being 
literally translated into English, signifies the Sea of Ships* 



ON AFRICA. 



507 



be situated, viz. fifteen journeys of horse-travel- 
ling, or from 400 to 450 British miles east of 
Timbuctoo. 

The word Djinawa is the African word that 
denominates Guinea, but I cannot imagine that 
it was ever intended to signify Gana. (See Sup- 
plement to Encyclopaedia Britannica, p. 104.) 

You say there are, in Africa, two rivers to 
which the name of Niger has been given : this 
is evidently an error, but possibly of the press 
only. There are, however, two rivers in Africa 
to which the name of Neel has been given. 

The Proceedings of the African Association, 
vol. i. p. 540, declare that the Nile is a name 
applied in Africa to any great river ; but as this 
assertion is calculated to produce confusion in 
the geographical elucidation of the interior of 
that continent, and as it certainly is not the fact, 
I must here beg leave to contradict it, and de- 
clare that there are absolutely but two rivers in 
Africa, that bear the name Neel or Nile, viz. the 
Neel El Kabeer, Neele Sudan, or Neel El 
Abeed, i. e. the great Nile, the Nile of Sudan 
or the Nile of the Negroes \ and Neele Masser, 
i. e. the Nile of Egypt. r 

If my knowledge of the African Arabic 
can be of> any service in giving you the 
signification or correct orthography of African 

r Nile is a French term, and loses its proper pronunciation 
and is unintelligible when pronounced by an Englishman to 
an African ; but if written Neel, and pronounced by an Eng- 
lishman, it is intelligible. 



508 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



words, in the event of your favouring the pub- 
lic with a future edition of your New Supple- 
ment to the Encyclopaedia Britannica, any in- 
formation that I can communicate to you will 
be very much at your service ; and you may in 
this and in any other respect that regards Africa 
freely command my services. 

Observations on an Historical Account of Discoveries and 
Travels in Africa, by the late John Ley den, M. Z)., by 
Hugh Murray, Esq, F> R. S. E. 

TO HUGH MURRAY ESQ. F.R. S.E. 

Sir, London, Feb. 1818. 

You have certainly rendered to your country 
a service, in the publication of " The Travels 
and Discoveries in Africa, of the late John 
Leyden," the perusal of which has been to me 
a fund of instruction and entertainment ; it is a 
most valuable work, and such a one as was 
wanted by the literary world, inasmuch as 
the judicious collection of the matter forms a 
most valuable epitome of African knowledge, 
collecting what was before distributed into many 
folios. 

I anticipate that the information in this work, 
communicated to the public, will soon be cir- 
culated, and you will be called upon to supply 
a second edition. In the mean time, I take the 
liberty of submitting to your perusal a few cur- 
sory observations which I have made during the 
perusal of it, on the accuracy of which you may 



ON AFRICA. 



509 



assuredly rely. These apply for the most part 
to Arabian words, which have been by the mo- 
derns, as well as the ancients variously corrupted 
and mutilated. Desirous (for the information 
of those who really seek after African know- 
ledge) that this book will pass through many 
editions. I am, &c. 

James Grey Jackson. 



Cursory Observations . 

" The Ludaia, are not inhabitants of Ludama, 
they are a very numerous and warlike tribe of 
Arabs, inhabiting the Sahara, of which there are 
two or three emigrations or encampments in dif- 
ferent and distant parts of Sahara ; the Emperor 
of Marocco has some thousands of them in his 
army, and they are esteemed (next to the ne- 
groes, called Abeed Seedy Bukaree) his best 
troops. See the Map of the tracts from Fas 
and Arguin to Timbuctoo, facing page 1. 
Lat. N. 24°. long. W. 3°. 

" This serpent is the Buska, described in Jack- 
son's enlarged Account of Marocco, &c. p. 109. 
Providence has afforded to man an opportunity 
of evading the attack of this deadly animal ; for 
when it coils itself up, and by the strength of 
its tail darts forward fifteen or twenty yards at 
once, the person attacked, by watching vigi- 
lantly its motions, evades the attack, by moving 
only a short distance from the right line, in which 
it is prepared to dart forwards; neither can the 



510 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



Buska govern itself in the extent of its move- 
ment, but necessarily goes as far as its strength 
will permit, and then coils itself up again in a 
circular form, again erects its head, and darts a 
second time to its object. I have conversed with 
Arabs, who have been attacked by this monster, 
and they have assured me, that, by vigilantly 
watching its motion, and the direction of its 
head, when preparing to dart forward, they may 
escape its attack/ 

" It is not correct to assert that Nasari is a ge- 
neral term, applied to infidels in Muhamed ; it 
is applied to Christians only. Kqffer is the ge- 
neral term applied to all who have not faith in 
the Arabian Prophet. x 

" That which you call the Talk Tree, is the 
tree which produces the Barbary gum ; the name 
is talkJ 

" The Keydenalu — This is the Sudanic name 
for the tree which produces the Argan nut, or 
olive, the kernel of which resembles a bitter 
almond, and from it, not from the shell, they 
extract the oil, so celebrated for frying fish, and 
for burning ; a pint of which will afford light as 
long as two pints of olive oil. 

" The She plant, or properly Sheh is not wild 
thyme, nor does it resemble it, it is the worm- 
seed plant, the seed of which is an article of 
exportation, from the ports of Marocco. The 

u Vide Leyden's Africa, p. 306. x Ibid, p. 429. 

y Ibid, p. 204. 



ON AFRICA. 



511 



sheh resembles the absynthum. The wild thyme 
is called zatar, also an article of exportation 
from the ports of the Marocco empire. 55 

" The Alsharra signifies the Book of Laws of 
Muhamed. a 

" Gebel Ramlie should be written Jibbel Rum- 
melie, i. e. the Sandy Mountain. b 

" The Elwah c Elgarbie is inhabited by the 
Maggrebee Arabs. My late friend, Muley Abd 
Salam, elder brother to Muley Soliman, the reign- 
ing Emperor of Marocco, had a very large estate 
in this Wah, called Santariah. In the 1793d year 
of the Christian era, he sent his friend and servant 
Alkaid Muhammed ben Abd Saddack, late go- 
vernor of Mogodor, to effect the sale of this 
estate. He was absent on this embassy two years 
and three months/ 

" Sheb is the Arabic for alum, the correct or- 
thography is Shib. e 

" Mary bucks should be Mar abet, i. e. Priests, 
or Holy Muhamedans. f 

" The primitive plough is used in all the Afri- 
can countries inhabited by the Arabs, or their 
descendants ; the negroes, however, use the 
hoe. g 



2 Vide Ley den's Africa, p. 312. 
a Ibid, p. 334. b Ibid, p. 398. 

c Let the African traveller be careful to pronounce these 
g's guttural ^ 

d Ibid, p. 399- e Ibid. ibid. 

f Ibid. p. 225. s Ibid. p. 227. 



512 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



" The Mouselmines is a French corruption of 
the term Muselman, i. e. Mohamedans. 

" Mongearts, i. e. Moguert, the g guttural. 

" Ouadelim, i. e. Wooled Deleim, or the sons 
of Dee my. 

" Labdessebah, i. e. Woled Abbusebah, < the 
sons of Abbusebah.' h 

" Wed de Non, i.e. Wedinoon. 

"The herb, with a decoction of which they dye 
their nails and hands, is called by the Arabs El 
Henna : it imparts a coolness and softness to the 
hands, and diminishes the excessive perspiration 
incident to warm climates. 1 

" Hooled ben Soliman ought to be Woled ben 
Soliman, * the sons of the sons of Soliman and 
Benioled, should be Ben El Waled, € the sons of 
Elwaled.' k 

" The small beautiful species of deer, is the El 
Horreh : it is an inhabitant of the confines of the 
Saharah ; it is said never to lie down. It pro- 
duces the anti-poison called bezoar stone, (called 
in the Arabic Bide El Horrek, i. e. the testicle 
of the Horreh. This is an article of commerce at 
Santa Cruz, and Wedinoon. The back and sides 
of the skins of these animals are of a red brown, 
and of a vivid white underneath." 1 



h Vide Leyden's Africa, 'p. 262. 1 Ibid. p. 291. 

k Ibid. p. 299. 1 Ibid, p. 303. 



ON AFRICA. 



513 



TO JAMES GREY JACKSON, ESQ. 

Sir, Edinburgh, May 3. 1818. 

I have lately been favoured with two com- 
munications from you : — the one a letter to Mr. 
Napier, editor of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, 
on the subject of the article Africa, of which I 
was the author, and which Mr. Napier* there- 
fore, put into my hands ; the other a letter 
direct to myself, on the subject of my edition 
of " Leyden's Discoveries in Africa." I fully 
intended to have answered them before now, 
but the pressure of other business, with the 
wish to bestow upon them the leisurely consider- 
ation which they merited, has hitherto prevented 
me. I feel much gratified by the favourable 
opinion which you express of what I have done 
on this subject, and much obliged to you for 
your communications, and offers of further in- 
formation. I experienced very much the dis- 
advantage arising from a want of knowledge of 
the languages of North Africa, with which you 
appear to have a very extensive acquaintance. 
Indeed, several of the etymologies which you 
have given, are very interesting. I was parti- 
cularly pleased to receive that of the term Ba 
Sea Feena, though I cannot conceal that it tends 
to strengthen the doubts which I have enter- 
tained of its applying to the sea on the Gold 
Coast. The distance, the direction southwards, 
the Christians, the motion one way and another, 
and even the ships, are all circumstances which 



514 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



would agree. There are arguments, however, 
against it ; and it is certain that Park did not so 
understand it. Do you think there is any chance 
that the Bahr Soudan could be the Gulf of 
Guinea ? 

If you are acquainted with any circumstances 
which could tend to confirm or refute the narra- 
tive of Sidi Hamet, as given by Riley, or throw 
light upon Riley's general credibility ; or if you 
have ever heard any report of such a city as Was- 
sanahy I should feel particularly obliged to you 
for communicating such information : and when- 
ever I find myself at a loss, I shall gladly avail 
myself of the liberality with which you show 
yourself disposed to impart the knowledge of 
which you have become possessed. 

I shall communicate this letter to Mr. Napier ; 
and it is but fair to mention, that, from the cir- 
cumstances already stated, I am solely respon- 
sible for the too long delay which has taken 
place in answering your letter to him, as well 
as that to myself. 

Hugh Murray. 



On the Niger and the Nile. 

London, 7th April, 1820. 
In the 25th number of the Quarterly Review, 
(article Park's Travels,) the hypothesis there 
laid down as almost indisputable, is the non- 
continuity of the two Niles of Africa, or (ac- 



ON AFRICA. 



515 



cording to the European phraseology of the day) 
of the Niger and the Nile. 

This hypothesis founded on the opinion of 
Major Rennel, carries with it no evidence 
whatever, but the speculative theory of that 
learned geographer. The identity or connection 
of the two Niles, and the consequent water com- 
munication between 1 " 1 Cairo and Timbuctoo 
receives (supposing the Quarterly Review to be 
correct), as our intelligence respecting Africa 
increases, additional confirmation : and even the 
Quarterly Reviewer, who denominated the opi- 
nion recorded by me, the gossipping stories of 
Negroes, (vide Quarterly Review, No. 25, p. 140.) 
now favours this opinion ! 

The Quarterly Reviewer appreciates Burck- 
hardt's information on this subject, and depre- 
ciates mine, although both are derived from the 
same sources of n intelligence, and confirm one 
another : the reviewer says, Mr. Burckhardt has 
revived a question of older date ; viz. " that 
the Niger of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are 
one and the same river : this general testimony 
to a physical fact can be shaken only by direct 
proof to the contrary.'* 

This is all very well : I do not object to the 
Quarterly Reviewer giving up an opinion which 
he finds no longer tenable ; but when I see in 
the same review (No. 44, p. 481.) the following 
words, — " we give no credit whatever to the 

m Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. 310. 
n i. e. Intelligence from natives of Africa. 



516 



VARIOUS LETTERS. 



report received by Mr. Jackson, of a person 
(several Negroes , it should be) having performed 
a voyage by water from Timbuctoo to Cairo/* 
I cannot but observe with astonishment, that 
the Reviewer believes Burckhardt's report, that 
they are the same river, when, at the same time 
he does not believe mine. 

Is there not an inconsistency here, somewhat 
incompatible with the impartiality which ought 
to regulate the works of criticism ? I will not 
for a moment suppose it to have proceeded from 
a spirit of animosity, which I feel myself uncon- 
scious of deserving. But the reviewer further 
says, the objection to the identity of the Niger 
and the Nile, is grounded on the incongruity 
of their periodical inundations, or on the rise 
and fall of the former river not corresponding 
with that of the latter. I do not comprehend 
whence the Quarterly Reviewer has derived 
this information ; I have always understood the 
direct contrary, which I have declared in the 
enlarged editions of my account of Marocco, 
page 304, which has been confirmed by a most 
intelligent African traveller, Ali Bey, (for which 
see his travels, page 220.) 

I may be allowed to observe, that although 
the Quarterly Reviewer has changed his opinion 
on this matter, I have invariably maintained 
mine, founded as it is on the concurrent testi- 
mony of the best informed and most intelligent 
native African travellers, and 1 still assert, on 

° Vide Jackson's enlarged Account of Marocco, p. 312. 



ON AFRICA. 



517 



the same foundation, the identity of the two Niks, 
and their continuity of waters. 

I have further to remark what will most pro- 
bably ere long prove correct ; viz. that the 
Bahar Abiad n , that is to say, the river that 
passes through the country of Negroes, between 
Senaar and Donga, is an erroneous appellation, 
originating in the general ignorance among 
European travellers of the African Arabic, and 
that the proper name of this river is Bahar 
Abeed, which is another term for the river 
called the Nile-el-Abeed, which passes south 
of Timbuctoo towards the east (called by Euro- 
peans the Niger). 

It therefore appears to me, and I really think 
it must appear to every unbiassed investigator 
of African geography, that every iota of African 
discovery, made successively, by Hornemann °, 
Burckhardt, and others, tends to confirm my 
water communication between Timbuctoo andCairo, 
and the theorists and speculators in African 
geography, who have heaped hypothesis upon 
hypothesis, error upon error, who have raised 
splendid fabrics upon pillars of ice, will ere 
long close their book, and be compelled, by the 
force of truth and experience, to admit the 
fact stated about twelve years ago by me in my 
account of Marocco, &c. viz. that the Nile of 

n Bahar Abiad signifies White River ; Bahar Abeed sig- 
nifies River of Negroes. 

° Vide my letter in Monthly Magazine on this subject for 
March, 1817, p. 124. 



.518 



VARIOUS LETTERS 



Sudan and the Nile of Egypt are identified by a 
continidty of waters, and that a water communi- 
cation is provided by these tzco great rivers from 
Timbuctoo to Cairo ; and moreover, that the 
general African opinion, that the N eel-el- Abeed 
(Niger) discharges itself into the (Bahar el Maleh) 
Salt Sea, signifies neither more nor less than 
that it discharges itself at the Delta in Egypt, into 
the Mediterranean Sea ! 

James Grey Jackson, 



APPENDIX ; 



BEING HISTORICAL FRAGMENTS IN ELUCIDATION OF 
THE FOREGOING FAGES. 



First Expedition on Record to Timbuctoo, — Timbuctoo 
and Guago captured by Muley Hamed, (son of Muley 
Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Melk % or Muley 
Moluck,) in the 16th Century, (about the Year 1580.) 

Muley Abdelmelk, commonly called Muley Moluck, 
in 1577, A. C. fought the celebrated battle with Don 
Sebastian, King of Portugal, near Alkassar, which is at 
a short distance from L'Araich, wherein Don Sebastian 
was killed ; and Abdelmelk being, before the battle, ex- 
tremely ill, his son Muley Hamed went to his litter, to 
communicate to the Emperor his father, that the Moors 
had gained the victory, when he found his father dead 
and cold. Muley Hamed concealed this event till the 
battle was over; and was then proclaimed Emperor, and 
reigned twenty-six years : he cultivated the arts and sci- 
ences, mathematics and astronomy, which last was of es- 
sential service to him in crossing the Sahara to Timbuctoo 
and Guago ; during which perilous journey the compass 
is so indispensable, that there is no certainty of travelling 
without it. He lost some thousands in this expedition ,* 



See the Spectator, No. 5-iy. 



APPENDIX. 



but if gold could recompense the waste of human life, 
he was rewarded for his journey of abstinence and priv- 
ation across the Sahara, for he brought from Guago 
seventy-five quintals, and from Timbuctoo sixty quintals, 
of gold-dust, making together one hundred and thirty- 
five quintals, or 1 6,065lb. English avoirdupoise weight of 
gold. 

A Library of Arabic Manuscripts taken by the Spaniards,. 
— Contests among Christians reprimanded. 

Muley Sidan, son of Muley Hamed, disputed the 
throne of Marocco, A. C. 1611, with three brothers, one 
of whom was supported by the Spaniards, whose suc- 
cour was purchased by his delivering into their hands 
the port of L'Araich, soon after which they gained a 
naval victory over the forces of Sidan, which was very 
disastrous to the Africans ; for the Spaniards, besides 
other plunder, got possession of 3000 Arabic books, on 
theology, philosophy, and medicine. Sidan, however, 
notwithstanding this disaster, maintained his right to the 
crown. He was of a liberal and charitable mind. He 
protected and granted to the Christians various privi- 
leges; but he ordered that Christians of all sects and 
denominations should live in peace one with another. 

One day, some ( User ah) Christian slaves of Provence, 
in France, who were Catholics, had a controversial 
dispute with others from Rochelle, who were Calvinists. 
This dispute ended in a violent contest, accompanied with 
blows on either side; this scene excited the curiosity of 
the Muselmen, who were surprised to see Christians 
thus fight among themselves on points of their own law ! 
The report of this battle was carried to Sidan, who or- 
dered all these slaves to be brought before him. He con- 
demned some to a bastinado, which was inflicted in his 



APPENDIX. 



521 



presence. He then addressed them thus : — "I com- 
mand you all, on pain of death, not to dispute in future 
on the various dogmas of your law : every one has the 
presumption to think himself right ; and as I allow every 
individual in my dominions to follow the religion that 
he chooses for himself ; slaves ought to have among them- 
selves the same toleration, 

Muley El Arsheed, (a second Expedition to Timbuetoo and 
Sudan.) 

This Sultan preceded the renowned Muley Ismael, on 
the throne of Marocco : he united to great ability the 
most ferocious disposition, and was continually inebri- 
ated. — He crossed the Sahara to Timbuetoo, with a 
numerous army, about the year of Christ 1670 ; pro- 
ceeding to Suse, he laid siege to the Sanctuary of Seedi 
Aly ben Aidar, near llirgh : Seedi Aly, making his 
escape in disguise, fled to Sudan, whither he was fol- 
lowed by Muley El Arsheed, who, on his arrival on the 
confines of Sudan, between Timbuetoo and Jinnie, was 
met by a numerous host of Negroes, commanded by a 
black sultan : the Emperor demanded Aly ben Aidar ; 
but the sultan of Bambarra replied^ that, as he had 
claimed his protection, it would be an infringement ,on 
the laws of hospitality to deliver him up , adding, " that 
he desired to know if the views of El Arsheed were hos- 
tile or not ; to which the latter replied, after endeavour- 
ing in vain to procure the person of Aly, that he was 
not come hostilely, but was about to return, which he 
forthwith did : and the Bambareen sultan, having re- 
ceived from Aly two beautiful renegade virgins, was so 
much flattered with the present, that he promised him 
any thing that he should ask ; whereupon, he requested 
permission to go to Timbuetoo, and to settle there with 
his numerous followers ; which being granted, he pro- 



APPENDIX. 



ceeded thither, and having established a Moorish gar- 
rison, resided there several months, and afterwards re- 
turned to Barbary, bringing with him many thousand 
Bambareen negroes : but, on his reaching Suse, he heard 
of the death of Muley El Arsheed, and having then no 
farther occasion for these negroes, he dismissed them. 
They went to various parts of the country, serving the 
inhabitants in order to procure daily subsistence ; but the 
arch-politician Muley Ismael, who had then recently been 
proclaimed as his successor, ordered them to be col- 
lected together, and incorporated in his negro army, 
which was, however, before this, very numerous, consist- 
ing for the most part of blacks, brought away from 
Sudan by Muley El Arsheed the preceding year. The 
Sultan Ismael also seized this opportunity of establishing 
his authority at Timbuctoo, and he met with little or no 
opposition in putting that place under contribution. Hav- 
ing sent fresh troops to occupy theMoorish garrison there, 
the inhabitants were glad to make a contribution, in ex- 
change for the protection and power which it afforded 
them ; for previous to this, they had been subject to con- 
tinual depredations, from the Arabs of the adjacent 
country, to whom they had been compelled to pay tri- 
bute, as a security for their caravans, which were con- 
stantly passing the country of these Arabs, who are of the 
race of Brabeesh. In the year 1727, A. C. when Ismael 
died, it is reported that he possessed an immense quan- 
tity of gold, of the purity of which, his gold coins, to be 
seen at this day at Timbuctoo, bear testimony ; it is also 
said, that the massive bolts of his palaces were of pure 
gold, as well as the utensils of his kitchens. After his 
decease, however, the tribute was discontinued, and the 
Moorish garrison at Timbuctoo, intermarrying with the 
natives, and dispersing themselves in the neighbouring- 
country, has given to Timbuctoo that tincture of Musel- 
man manners, which they are known to possess ; their 



APPENDIX. 



523 



descendants forming, at this period, a considerable por- 
tion of the population of Timbuctoo. 

TJiird Expedition to Timbuctoo and Sudan. 

Muley Ismael died of an abscess in 1727, and was 
succeeded by his youngest son Muley Hamed Dehebby, 
a most avaricious prince, whose treasure, collected in his 
government during the life of his father, amounted to 
ten millions ; to which was now added his father's trea- 
sury, amounting to fifty millions, besides jewels and 
diamonds to a much larger amount. 

Dehebby b , sanguinary and cruel when sober, was mild, 
affable, and humane when intoxicated : unlike Muselmen, 
he believed not in predestination, but had always seve- 
ral surgeons and doctors in his suite, and consulted them 
with the most unlimited confidence when ill. He deco- 
rated the palace of Marocco : in one of the apartments 
of the seraglio, of which he had had painted, in a 
superior style, the twelve signs of the zodiac ; for which 
his ignorant and bigoted subjects accused him of having 
conspired against the Deity, in imitating, by gross and ill- 
formed images, the works of the Almighty. This prince 
was an intolerable drunkard ; so that the Marabets and 
chiefs of the empire called Abdelmelk to the throne, 
whom they enabled to take possession of Mequinas. This 
prince, anticipating the revenge of Dehebby, proposed to 
deprive him of his eye-sight ; but the Marabets and 
chiefs opposed this resolution and replied to him in the 
following words: — " It is not for his crimes that we 
have deposed thy brother, but for his continual intoxi- 
cation, which prevented him from watching over the 
government and his officers : he has therefore only been 

b His proper name was Muley Hamed ben lsmael, the name De- 
hebby is figurative of hib riches in gold. 



APPENDIX. 



guilty of weakness, which is not a punishable crime." 
Abdelmelk dared not push his point, but was contented 
to send his brother to the {Bled Shereef), country of 
princes, L e. Tafilelt. Before Dehebby was dethroned, 
he marched with a numerous army across Sahara, to 
Timbuctoo, of which he took possession, and brought 
home immense quantities of gold. 

1730. — Muley Hamed Dehebby dying, should have 
been succeeded by his son Muley BoufFer ; but money 
and intrigue gave power to Abdallah, a son of Muley 
Ismael, who was proclaimed in spite of the efforts 
of his nephew, whom he attacked at Terodant, the 
capital of Suse. BoufFer was taken, together with 
a Marabet, his confidential friend and counsellor. 
Abdallah ordered them both to be brought before him. 
• — " Thou art young," said he to his nephew ; " thou hadst 
imprudently undertaken more than thou couldst accom- 
plish; and in consideration of thy youth and inexperience, 
I pardon thee, but I will be revenged of thy counsellor." 
Then turning himself to the Marabet, " Thou art a re- 
bel," said he. "Didst thou imagine that thy sacred cha- 
racter, which thou hast abused against thy (Seed) Lord 
or King would prevent him from punishing thee ? Let 
us see if thy sanctity will turn the edge of my sword." — 
In uttering these words, he struck off the saint's head* 



INDEX 



A. 

JBDELMELKy the prince, moral reflection on his ex- 
pensive apparel, 79. Is sent to Tafilelt, 80. 
Abolition of Slavery depends on the Africans themselves, not 

on our naval force or operations, 270. 
Abstinence experienced in the Sahara, 353. Means used to 

support it. Effects of, 354. 
Abbusebah JVoled, Arabs of, 138. 

Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, interview 
with, 136. 

Abdsalam, prince, departs for Tafilelt, through Draha and 

Bled el jereed, 149. 
Abeed, 481. Seedi Bukaree, emperor's body guard, 481. 
Aboukir, battle of, its consequence to muselmen, 101. 
Acephali, 198. 

Africa, plan for the discovery of, 201. 

African Association, Institution, &c. recommended to unite 
their energies and operations to cultivate a commercial 
intercourse with Africa, 228. The same recommended 
an a large scale, 249. African Company, a plan for, 251. 
African Association, disastrous expeditions of, 258. 
An union of the African interests beneficial, 271. Afri- 
can duplicity exemplified, 293. African Association 
might find the son of Ali Bey an acquisition in pro- 
moting their views, 304. 

African names, how pronounced, 491. 

Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, port of, opened to Dutch com- 
merce, 55. Apprehensions at Mogodor from the estab- 
lishment of Santa Cruz, 56. Conveniently situated for 
the markets of Sudan. Denominated the gate of Sudan, 56. 
Port of, farmed by Muley Ismael, 57. Author's arrival 
at, to open the port to European commerce. Wretched 
state of its inhabitants. Honourable reception of the 
author there, 59. Disgraceful custom abolished by the 
author, 60. Propensity to commerce among the people 
of Suse. Sanctuary at the entrance of the town. Privilege 
of ridmg in and out of the town established by the author. 



526 



INDEX. 



for Christians of all denominations, 61. Commercial 
road made by the author down the mountain to facilitate 
the shipment of merchandise, 62. The spirit of the 
natives in working at it. Happy influence of commerce 
and industry on the people. Portuguese tower in the 
neighbourhood, 63. Description of the town, 64. Strength 
of, and convenient situation for a depot, 65. Mitferes, de- 
positaries for water, 65. Attempt of the Danes to estab- 
lish a colony in its vicinage, at Agadeer Arba. Battery 
at, 66. Safe road for shipping. Inhabitants friendly to 
the English, 67. Port of, shut by the Emperor, and the 
garrison and merchants ordered to go to Marocco, and 
from thence to quit the country or establish at Mogodor, 
79. Negociation for the port of, from the emperor, 246. 

Agricultural property, division of, 330. Agriculture, 339. 

Aisatvie, or charmers of serpents described, 430. 

Ait Attar, or Attarites, an independent kabyl or clan, 311. 

ATcka, 7. Depot for camels, 248. 

AJcfcaba, kaffilas, or caravans to Timbuctoo, where eligible 
to be established, 263. 

AMaba, what, 345. 

Akhad, its signification, 411. 

Alk Sudan, what, 345. 

Altitude of the Atlas mountains, 93, 94. 

Ali Bey, an account of, 297. Suspicions entertained re- 
specting him. His magnificent mode of living. Excites 
the suspicion of the governor of Marocco, 300. Pie is 
prevented from visiting the Atlas mountains, 301. He is 
favoured by the emperor, 302. Stratagem practised to 
ascertain what religion he followed. Ordered to embark 
at Laraich. Is separated from his wife. Her conduct. 
He predicts an eclipse, 303. Passes for a learned man. 
Suspected to be an agent of Bonaparte. His son resides at 
Fas, patronised by the Marabet Muley Dris or Idris, 304. 

Algiers, attack of, recommended to the Emperor of Ma- 
rocco, 283. 

Almonds, plantations of, 74. 

Ambassador, British, the author's interview with. Great 

honor shown to him on his entry into Tangier, 127. 
Amber, manufactured imitation of, at Fas, 126. 216- 
Amaranites, or Ait Amaran, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. 
Amah, the poet, his sumptuous style of living, 353. 
Amorites, of the, 475. 

— — , or Ait Amor, 122. Descendants of the ancient 

Amorites, 124. Anecdotes of, 193. 
Amusements of Europeans at Marocco, 89. 
Anachronism of the author misapplied, 442. 



INDEX. 



527 



Angola, natives of, how converted to Christianity, 442. 

Anti-commercial system, 211. 

Antiperistasis of the Africans, how promoted, 230. 

Antimony mines, 331. 

Anecdote of an Emperor, 307. 

Anecdotes, fragments, and notes, 276. 

Antithesis, a favourite figure with the Arabs, 349. 

Apparel of the emperor, plain and simple, 79. 

Arabs, cookery of, 64. Riches of, in what they consist, 247. 
Dance and music, 140. Abstinence of, 141. Beauty of 
their women, 142. Patriarchal life of, 143. 196. Arab 
royalty personified, 195. Customs of, 244. Of Sahara, 
hostile to those who do not understand their language, 
262. The manners of, resemble those of the patriarchal 
ages, 276. The study of their language and customs 
the best comment on the Old Testament, 276. Their 
territory and origin, 328. Decay of science and arts 
among, 352. 

. , sheiks of, hold themselves accountable for the pro- 
perty, baggage, &c. of travellers, 233. 

Arabic document distributed by Mr. Bowdich in Africa, to 
the natives, unintelligible, 492. 

i language, on the, 471. The language of Palestine 

resembles that of West Barbary, 473. 

. ■ , general utility of, a practical knowledge 

of in Africa, 258. On the language, 357. Arabian 
music, 318. Arabic grammar, errors in Richardson's, 
351. Pure Arabic, where spoken, 351. Arabian modes 
of writing, 350. Errors committed by professors of, who 
have not a practical knowledge of the language, 39. 

. , universality of the, 473. 

. translations of documents in, furnished to govern- 

ment by the author, 407. 

manuscripts, 3000 taken by the Spaniards, 520. 

interpreter, the author officiates as, with the prince 

Muley Teib, 192. 

Architecture described, 90. Gothic prevails, 271. 

Argan tree, and oil of, 510. 

trees, oil of the, productive of leprosy if not pro- 
perly prepared, 91. 

Ashantee, intercourse through, with Timbuctoo objectionable, 
and why, 249. 

Atlas, foot of, a productive country, 74. Table land in, 
and produce of, 75. Narrow defile or pass, 76. Calcu- 
lated altitude of, 93. 

Attaritesj or Ait Attar, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. 



528 



INDEX. 



Audiences of the emperor, introductory, of business, of leave 
or departure, 89. 

Author's intelligence respecting the interior of Africa, con- 
sidered valuable, 99. 

travels in disguise, 136. 

Azamore, 110. 

B. 

Bab Sudan, 456. 

Badge of distinction worn by the lepers, 91. 
Bahar Segrer, the Mediterannean designated by that term, 
489. 

Sudan, corroborative testimony of its situation, 450, 

451.465. 
> , situation of, 436. 

— Kulla, explanation of the term, 444. Ditto of 

Bahar Sudan, 448. 

El Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, Atlantic Ocean desig- 
nated by that name, 489. 

■ El Abeed, not Bahar El Abiad, 517. 

Ba Scafeena, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, 
450. 465. 

, of Park, synonymous with the sea of Sudan, 

properly called Bahar S'feena, 506. 

Bank, in West Barbary, recommended, 237- 

Banks, Sir Joseph's letter to Mr. Dickson, respecting the 
death of Mungo Park, a passage in it confirmed only in 
Mr. Jackson's translation of the Shereef Ibrahim's account 
of that traveller's death, brought by Mr. Bowdieh from 
Ashantee, but not in Mr. Salerno's translation, 425. The 
author's translation, 409. 

Barbary, conquered by the Romans, by the Vandals, by 
the Greeks, by the Arabs, 458. Partial conquest of by 
the Portuguese and Spaniards, 458. 

, travelling in, 293. 

Bashatv of Abda, interview with, 136. 

Bedouins, emigration of. Camel's milk, their] food, 203. 
Domestic looms of. Manufactures of. Custom of, 204. 
Mode of living. Extempore poetry of, 205. Manners 
of, 206. 

Beef, mode of preserving for food in the desert, 349. 

Berebbers, their contest with the emperor, 308. Their ter- 
ritory and language, 327. Names of their clans or tribes, 
124. Specimen of their language, 367. 

Bernou, etymology of, 449. 



INDEX. 



529 



Bism iUahy and El Hamd u lillah, signification of, 231. 
Bonaparte, his system respecting Africa, 229. 
Bouska, exhibition of that monstrous serpent, 4-51. 
Brimstone mines, 331. 
British public, address to, 253. 

Buffe, Dr. his medical success at Marocco, 396. He is 
recommended to his majesty George the Third, and his 
majesty is requested, by the emperor, to return him to Gib- 
raltar, to reside there as the emperor's physician, 397. 

Buhellessa, the pretender, described, 287. He is an adept in 
the occult sciences, 288. He marches with 22,000 men 
to attack Delemy's castle, 289. He is vanquished and 
beheaded, 290. His army dispersed, his head and feet 
sent to the Prince Muley Abdsalam, at Santa Cruz, 290. 
The prince rewards the man who killed the usurper : the 
author visits the field of battle, which resembled the plains 
of Waterloo, 291. 

Buregreg river, 113. 

Burhhardt, anticipation respecting, 449. 

Butellise, or night-blindness, described, 332. 

■ or nyctalopia, an ophthalmia that affects our sea- 
men in the Mediterannean, 433. 

Butter, melted, food in the desert, 6. 

C. 

Camel, the ship of the desert, 247- 
Coffer, or Khaffer, signification of, 345. 
Cairo, derivation of the name, 326. 
Canary language resembles the shelluh of Atlas, 381. 
Caravans accumulate as they proceed to the confines of Sa- 
hara, 4. 

Cape of Good Hope, how to preserve, and to improve its 

produce, 339, 340. 
Cape de Verd, compared to Ceuta, 229. 
Ceuta, preparation for the siege of, by the emperor Muley 

Yezzid, 403. 

Christians, harmony among, necessary to precede the con- 
version of Africa, 131. 

Christian religion, how to propagate it in Africa, 224. 

■ — 5 impediments to its propagation, 225. 

, the influence of its principles in Africa, 227. 

Civilisation of Africa, the necessary result of commerce, 
and the only plan by which an expectation of the conver- 
sion of the natives to Christianity can possibly be indulg- 
ed, 263. 

of Africa, through commerce, the only effectual 

means of abolishing the slave trade, 270. 



530 



INDEX. 



Civil war prevalent in West and in South Barbary, 279. 

Characteristic trait of Muhamedans, 308. 

Christians, ordered by the emperor, on pain of death, to live 

peaceably with one another, 520. 
Christ acknowledged by muselmen, 240. 
Circumcision, when performed among Muhamedans, 345. 
Cobas described, 272. 

Colonial produce, consequences of the cultivation of, in 
Senegal by the French, 228. 

Commercial intercourse with Africa favourable to the pro- 
pagation of Christianity, 227. Recommended on a large 
scale, 249. 251. 259. 

Commercial adventurer in Africa more likely to succeed than 
a scientific one, 259. 

Commerce, the key of Africa, 428. 

Communication with Africa to be effected by the medium of 

commerce, 493. 
Connubial customs, 313. 
Copper mine?, 331. 

Com, abundant at Dar el Beida and at Fedalla, 110. Abun- 
dance of, in West Barbary, 208. 340. 
Couriers, confidence reposed in them, 405. 
Coffee of Timbuctoo, 279. 

Consuls of the European powers, their residence, 130. 
Congo, Africans of, how converted to the Christian faith> 
442. 

Continental markets of Europe, contemplation how they will 

be supplied with colonial produce, 229. 
Cuscusoe, or more properly Kuskasoe, an excellent food, 

mode of preparing it, 97. 
Customs, Muhamedan, 230. 

Cuba, slave-trade and produce of, increased, 270. 
Customs of the shelluhs of Idaultit, and laws of, remarkable, 
313. 

Customs, ceremonies at funerals, 465. 

D. 

Dances of the Arabs described, music of, 140. 344. 
Dates abundant at Tafilelt, 80. 
Dar el Beida, a corn country, 110. 

Dead, bodies of the, never interred in towns or in the 

mosques, 272. Ceremony of interment, 273. 
Deism, 325. 
Deef Allah, what, 341. 

Demy of science and the arts among the Arabs, 352. 



1 N D E X. 



DeleL i. e. auctioneer of slaves at Marocco, 95. 

Deleim, woled Arabs, 138. 

Decked vessels in the interior of Africa, 449. 

Delemy, sheik of the Deleim Arabs, 138. Invites the 
author and his companion, Signor Andrea de Christo, to 
pass the night at a douar of the Woled Abbusebah Arabs, 
139. Garden of, described, 147. Renown of, 148. A 
main pillar to the throne of Marocco, 148. Receives an 
exhortation from the prince Abdsahim to give battle to 
the usurper Buhellessa, 288. Dextrous in the manage- 
ment of a horse, 289. 

Desert, rate of travelling through, 470. 

Dexvs of the night, how they secure themselves against, 
when sleeping, 154. 

Deef Allah , custom of uttering, 233. 

Dimenet, in the Atlas, attacked by the emperor, 305. 

Difference between the oriental and occidental Arabic al- 
phabets, 351. 

Djinatva, definition of the name, 507. 

Distances from port to port, along the coast, calculated, 
132. 

Discovery of Africa, plan for, 200. 

Disgrace of inhospitality, 240. 

Doctors, itinerant, their apparatus, 242. 

Dollars, or villages of tents, described, 328 

Draha, province of, 2. Hire of camels from Tafilelt to, 2. 
Dates, the names of the different species, 3. Plantations 
of, 3. Inhabitants of nearly black, 2. Character of 
them, 2. 7. 

Drahim, what, 3. 

Driss Zerone Muley, renowned sanctuary of, 118. Author's 
hospitable reception there, and admission to the adytum, 
119. 

Duplicity of the Africans exemplified, 293. 314. 

E. 

East India trade, our, how likely to be affected by French 

colonisation, in Senegal, 229. 
Ebekoaits, or Ait Ebeko, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. 
Effah el, exhibition of that venomous serpent, 453. 
Elephants, 8. 
Elegant females, 142. 

Emperor admits an ambassador without prostration, and 
why, 282. 

Yezzid is wounded, and dies, 285. His body 

exhumated, 286. Compared to his majesty George the 
Fourth, 287. 



532 



I X D E X. 



Emperor, anecdote of one. 307. His contest with the Be- 
rebhers, SOS. Letter from him to his bashaw of Suse re- 
specting English seamen wrecked on the western coast of 
Africa, 364. Titles of H. I. M., 382. Style of address- 
ing him, 382. 

Emperors letters, 384. 387. 392. 394, 395. 398. 402, 
403. 405. 

■ plan of reconciling catholics with protestants, 520. 

table, simplicity of the furniture of, 96. 

, audience of business of the, 98. Audience of 

leave in the garden of the Nile, 98. 
Embassy, British, to Marocco, result of, 128. 
Encroachments of the French anticipated on our colonial 

markets, 230. 

Encyclopedia Britannica, misapplication of an anachronism, 
442. The editor of has adopted the author's opinion re- 
specting the course of the Niger, 447- 

Epistolary correspondence, 382. 

Epistolary diction used by Muhamedans, 404. 

Equity, case of, 312. 

Esshume, See Shume. 

Euphorbium plant, 74. 

European merchants at Mogador in danger of being decol- 
lated by order of the emperor, on a charge of high- 
treason, 284. 

F. 

Fas, bankrupts, how treated at, 16. Is the metropolis of 
the north, 87. Talb Cadus, 87. 

, gold thread manufactured at, of a superior quality, 

126. Manufactures, various of, 126. 

, houses of the merchants of, described, and gardens 

at, 275. Library at, 324. 

Fakeers, or muselmen-saints excite hostility between Chris- 
tians and Muhamedans, 267. 

Fedalla, corn country, 110. 

Fig-trees, very large, 82. 

Food, 316. Food of the desert, 349. 

of the Arabs similar to that used in the days of Abra- 
ham, 243. 

Fourban, Comte de, anecdote of, 112, 113. 

Fragments, notes, and anecdotes, 276. 

French army, landing of, in Egypt, 100. 

Fruits of all kinds abundant at Salee and Rabat, ] 14. 125. 

Fruga, town of, 76. 78. 



I N D E X. 



G. 

Game, plentiful. Not sold in the public market. Custom 
on shooting it, 338. Strangled, what game so called, 
338. 

Garrison of Tangier salutes the ambassador, 127. 
Garb el, what, so called, 2. 

Garden, imperial, the merchants encamped at Marocco in, 

88. Names and produce of, 81. 
Geography of Africa, on the, 474. 

George IV. compared to the Emperor Muley Yezzid, 287- 
— — — —- a patron to science and the arts, 429. 
Genoa, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 254. 
Girtvan ait, or Girwanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. 
Gold dust, gold bars, wrought gold, 67- 
, and bars, consignment of, to Fas from Timbuc- 
too, 347. 

Goldthread, superior manufactory of, at Fas, 215. 

, of a superior quality, manufactured at Fas, 

126. 

Government, offer to it, to discover the remedy for nycta- 
lopia, 335. 

Great Britain, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. 
Grored el, or sandy desert of Mogodor, 83. 
Gum Sudan, 67. Gum Barbary, 67.%Gum Euphorbium, 74. 
Gum sandrac. Gum ammoniac, 67. 

, called in England, Turkey gum Arabic, 345. 

Gun-barrels, manufacture of, 331. 

Gutta serena, probable remedy for the cure of, 335, 336. 
Galvanism, beneficial in, 336. 

H. 

HatvJcing, and hunting the boar, sports followed by princes, 
338. 

Hassua el, described, 242. 

Hcirie, Jackson's account of, confirmed by Colonel Fitz« 
clarence, 489. 

Hel shual, and Hel elkiileb, what, 198. Hel ferdie, what 
200. 

Hemeralopia, or night-blindness described, 332. 

Henna, an herb with which the Arabian, Moorish, Shelluh 

Berebber, and Jewish women dye their feet, hands, am 

hair, and why, 512. 
Hire of camels from Akka to Santa Cruz, 346. 
Hogans embassy to the emperor of Marocco, from quee; 

Elizabeth, 489. 



1 N D E X. 



Honey of Haha, 153. 

Hospitality of the Arabs, cultivators of west and south Bar- 

bary, 131. 239. 
, laws of, 340. Disinterested hospitality shown 

to the author, 342. Inviolability of the laws of, among the 

Bedouin Arabs, 343. 
Howara, an Arab clan, take possession of Assouan in 

Egypt, 74. 

■ — Arabs, hunting the boar with. They took the city 

of Assouan in Egypt, about four centuries ago, 245. 

Houses at Marocco and elsewhere described, 274. 

Housa, travelling there safe, 37. Great traffic on the Nile 
of Sudan. Niles, how denominated, 39. Description of 
the country adjacent to, 40. Situation and size of the 
palace of, and description of the city of, 41. Govern- 
ment of ; administration of justice at, 42. Landed pro- 
perty, 43. Revenues of ; army, 44. Trade, 45. Cli- 
mate, zoology, diseases, religion, 48. Persons ; dress, 
49. Buildings; manners, 50. Gold, 51. Limits of the 
Empire of ; pottery ; Timbu.ctoo tributary to it, 53. 
Small-pox, inoculation for, 54. 

Hutton, Catherine, her observations on an intercourse with 
Africa, 264. 

Hidacu, the Tartar, conqueror of the east. His letter to 

the sultan of Aleppo, 399. 
Hypotheses, various, respecting the Niger, 447- 

I. 

Jackson s report corroborated, 467. 

Idautenan, independence of, 147. Superior grapes of, 147. 

The country described, 147. 
Id ia ugomoro n, 151. 
Idaultlt, customs of, 313. 

Jedrie, the African name for the small-pox in horses, mules, 

asses, and oxen, 337. 
Jelabia, garment so called, described, 200. 
Jerf el suffer, the yellow cliff, 109. 

Jetv, great present made by one for the privilege of wearing 

the European costume, 297. 
Jews, a distinct race from the Africans, rendered so from 

their particular laws and customs, &c 230. 

, funeral cry of, 464. Funeral ceremonies of, 235. 

, massacre of, at Algiers, 283. How estimated in the 

empire of Marocco, 328. 
Jinnic, manufacture of gold filligreene at, 126. 



INDEX. 



535 



Impediments to our knowledge of Africa. What they 
are, 266. 

Inactivity, or want of vigilance severely reprehensible in the 

officers of the Marocco government, 203- 
Incorrect orthography of African names, 468. 
Indigo plant, 74. 
Interest of money, 237. 

Intercourse, commercial, with Africa, recommended to be 
adopted on a grand national scale, 249. 263- 

Interest of the Arabs of Sahara ; how it would be united 
with a colony on the coast, 248. 

Information from Africans respecting Africa, not con- 
temptible, 434. 

Insolvency laws, 343. 397. 

Intoxication, various modes of, 329. 

Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz, 345. Ditto from 

ditto to Fas, 347. 
Invasion of the country by Christians, a tradition of, 225. 
Invocation for the author's welfare made by the Fakeers of 

the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, 119. 

- for the welfare of the British embassy. 

Journey, in disguise, at a critical period, 135. 

Journies, viz. from Mogodor to Rabat ; to Mequinas ; to 

the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone; and to the ruins of 

Pharaoh ; through the country of Amorites to L'Araich 

and Tangier, 105. 
Irrigation, wheel for, 13. 
Iron mines, 331 . 

Isa Seedy ben, fascinators of serpents, 455. 

Isatvie (fascinators of serpents) their performance, 453. 

Justice, moral, 306. 

K. 

Kaaba, Muhamed's mausoleum, so called, 273. 

Kadder Khan, king of Turkostan, a great support to 

science, 352. 
Kqffer, the application of this term, 510. 

, (or Caffre) its signification, 267. 345. 

Kassar Kabeer el, a beautiful country, 124. 
Kereb, what, 5- 

Key of Africa is commerce, 428. 
Key ma, its definition, 307. 

Khalif Delemys, noble conduct to the prince Abdsalam, 
288. 

Kibla, i. e. the tomb of Muhamed, 9. 
Kiffen, signification of, 273. 



536 



I N D E X. 



King George IV. compared to the iate emperor of Ma- 
rocco, Muley Yezzid, 287. A patron to science and 
the arts, 429. 

Kitivoa ait, or Kituvites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. 

Koba, or coba, 88. 

Koran, called the beloved book. Etymology of the word, 
818. Incorrectly called the Alcoran, 1' Alcoran, or il Al- 
corano, 351. Written in good language, 353. 

L. 

Uaad of the Arabs described, 289. 

Language, etiquette of, at the court of Marocco, 315. 

Languages of Africa, 355. 

L'Araich, forest of. Ferry of, 125. 

Latvs of insolvency, 343. 

Lead mines, 331. Lead-ore mines, 331. 

Leather superior manufactory of, at Mequinas and Marocco, 

217. Articles used in the manufacture of leather, 218. 
Leghorn, its indirect commerce with Timbuctoo, 255. 
Leper s town or village near Marocco, 90. Mendicant 

lepers, 91. 
Library at Fas, 324. 

Lions, country abounding in. Mode of destroying them. 

Preservation against, 115. 
Liquorice root, abundant in Suse, 74. 

Locusts, their incredible devastation described, 221. Mode 
of collecting them, 222. Used as food ; method of 
preparing them ; much esteemed as food, 222. Re- 
markable instance of these insects having devoured every 
blade of grass south of the river Elkos, but not north of 
that river, 223. 

Love, Arabian definition of, 363. 

Loyalty of the sheiks of Suse, 288. Of Muhamedans, 
326. 

Ludaia are not Ludama, 507- 

Lybia palus and sea of Sudan synonymous, 418. 

M. 

Majesty, His, George IV. patron of science and the art*, 
429. Compared to the late emperor Yezzid, 287. 

Mandinga language compared with the Arabic, 373. 

Manufactures of Fas ; superior manufacture of gold-thread 
there, 214. 

Ma r abets, vy h a t , 511. 



INDEX. 



537 



Marabet, punishment of one, 524. 
Market called Soke Elkhummes, 94. 

Morocco, emperor's march to, 73. Country abundant in 
corn of a superior quality, 78. Reception at salutations 
of the Moors, 78. Gate called Beb el Lushoir ; its situ- 
ation, 78. Garden of the Nile, an imperial garden, 79. 
Tafilelt rose flourishes at Marocco ; its powerful perfume ; 
otto of roses, 79. Roses; various flowers abundant; 
Persian wheel in general use throughout the country, 82. 
Divisions of the empire of, 86. The summer residence 
of the emperor, 86. The metropolis of the south, 87. 
Town or village of lepers at, 90. Policy of concealing 
the appearance of wealth at, 95. Furniture of houses at, 
95. Customs at, 95. All trades carried on at, 98. 

, etiquete of the court of, 310. Emperor dispenses 

with, 311. 

Marseilles, its commerce indirectly with Timbuctoo, 254. 
Massacre of the Jews at Algiers, 283. 
Matamores, what, 14. 195. 

Matra, J. M., his excellency the British ambassador, treated 
by the emperor like a prince, 128. 

, his intelligence respecting vaccine pus, 337. 

Mauritannick writing, what, 351. 

Mazagan, 109. Country of, and inhabitants described, 
109. 

Mekka caravan, i. 4. 

Mendicant lepers, their exclamation, 91. 

Mensoria el, 110. 

Mequinas, city of the court-town ; travelling, mode of, 88. 

Imperial palace at, 117- Beauty of the ladies of, 118. 

, superior leather and shoes made at, 98. 

Merchandize, consignment of, from Timbuctoo to Fas, 348. 

, the various, the produce of Sudan, 256. 

Messa, visit to the port of, 145. Gold and silver mines of, 

146. 

Ministers house at Marocco, a noble one, 90. 

suggestions recommended to their attention, 230. 

Mitfere, or cistern, magnificent, at Mazagan, 109. 

Mitferes, what, 90. Expediency of, 210. 

, described, magazines for grain, 339. Custom 

observed when opened, 339. 
Mogodor, duties at, doubled, 74. Merchants of, present 

themselves to the emperor, 87. 
, duties at, reduced to the old standard through 

the influence of Muley Abd el Melk ben Dris, 128. 
— merchants in danger of being beheaded, 284. 



538 



INDEX. 



Monopodia of the ancients compared to a Moorish table, 231. 
Months, or moons, Muhamedan, their names, 371. 
Money, interest of, 237. 
Moors, 1. 

, their language and residence, 327. 

Moorish grace at meals, 96. 
customs, 231. 

Morbeya, river of, divides the northern from the southern 

division of the empire, 86. 
'Msharrah Rummellah, plains of, 124. Described, 195. 
'Mtasseb, what, 126. 
Muden, what, 111. 

Muhamedan princes, treaties with, 283. 

loyalty, 326. 

, their claims to hospitality, 341. 

customs, 34-9. 

Mules, not used in the desert, 5. 

Muley Abdsalam's domain in the oasis of Ammon, 280. 

Yezzid, the emperor, compared to his Majesty, 

George IV., 287. 

Abdrahaman, anecdote of, 322. 

— Ismael, anecdote of, 323. 

Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to captain 

Kirke at Tangier, ambassador from Charles II., dated 

A. D. 1682. 384. 
— Ismael, his letter to sir Cloudesly Shovel at Sal^e, 

387. Sir Cloudesly's answer, 389. 
Ismael, emperor of Marocco, his letter to queen 

Anne, 392. 

Yezzid, emperor of Marocco, his letter to the 

Dutch consul, 402. 

— ■ Ismael's, emperor, gold coins at Timbuctoo, 522. 

Hamed, son of Muley Moluck, an account of his 

expedition to Timbuctoo, &c. 519. 

Sidan, loses 3000 Arabic books, 520. Muley El 

Arsheed, his expedition to Timbuctoo, 521. Muley 
Hamed Dehebby, commonly called Deiby, his expedi- 
tion to Timbuctoo, 523. 

Mungo Park at Timbuctoo, 319. 

Murder, punishment for, 343. 

Mushoir, or place of audience, 89. 

Music, and Arab dance, 141. 



INDEX. 



539 



N. 

Nasari, the application of the term, 510. 
Nassar, Abdraharaan Ben, the bashaw of Abda, interview 
with, 136. 

Nations, the respective costumes of, enjoined, 296. 
Negro languages, thirty -three different ones spoken, 370. 
Negroes, opinion respecting, 466. Mental degradation of, 

imputable, in some measure, to the cruel treatment of 

them in the West India islands, 466. 
Neel, a name applied to two rivers in Africa only, 507. 
Nile, at Kabra, its width, 471. 

, the correct orthography in English is Neel, 79. 

Niger, contemplated result of the discovery of its course and 

termination, 99. Opinion concerning its course, 103. 

Niie el Kabeer, Nile Assudan, synonimous with Niger, 

201. 

, or Nile of Sudan, discharges itself in a lake, 449. 

— and the Nile, 515. Theory respecting, 515. The 

author's opinion of this river never varied, 516. 
— — or Neel el Abeed, discharges itself into the Mediter- 

rannean sea at the Delta, in Egypt, 518. 
Nile, this word is improperly spelled, 507. 
Niles, anticipation of the confirmation of their junction, 434. 
Nile Abid, or Neel el Abeed, error respecting its situation, 

435. 

Niles, junction of, where supposed to take place, 444. Not 
doubted in Africa, but supported by the general testimony 
of the natives, 445. 

Nile, the word applied only to two rivers in Africa, 447. 

Nishki, manner of writing, 350. Synonymous with the 
Kufie. 

North African, or Sudan Company, plan for one, 251. 
Nyctalopia, or night-blindness, 332. 

, description of, and remedy, 

432. Offer to discover the remedy, 432. 
, an ophthalmia, that affects our seamen in the 

Mediterannean, 433. Offer to discover the remedy for 

to government, 433. 

O. 

Oasis, western, 280. 

Oil of olives, 67- Oil arganic, 91. 

Olive plantations of Ras el Wed, 77. 

Ophthalmia, disorders at Marocco prevail among the Jewg, 
92. 



540 



INDEX. 



Opinions of the Africans respecting Jews, Christians, and 

themselves, 315. 
Oranges of Rabat, superior in quality, and low in price, 114. 
Oranges, 75. Orange-trees, very large, 82. 
Ostrich's feathers, 67. 

Ostriches presented by the Emperor Muley Ismael to Queen 
Anne, 393. 

P. 

Palace, imperial, at Tafileet, magnificent, 80. 
Palaces described, 274. Architecture of, 274. 
Partridges, mode of hunting among the Arabs, 107. 
Parh, Mungo, at Timbuctoo, 319. 

— — his arrival at Timbuctoo confirmed, 470. 

. , the author's translation of the Shereef Ibra- 
him's account of that traveller's death, 409. Mr. Abra- 
ham Saleme's translation of the same document, 413. 

Persian, or Arabian wheel described, mode of irrigation, 
147. 

Pharaoh, ruins of, 80. 121. 

Philanthropists dig wells for public accommodation, 150. 

Physicians fly at the approach of the plague, 165. 

Piracy, if the slave-trade were made piracy it would not 
abolish the traffic, 270. 

Plague, fragments respecting, 156. Progress of, 157. De- 
crease, 161. The plague political, 164. Emperor's mi- 
nister attacked by it, writes to the British consul for ad- 
vice, 165. 

, supposed origin of, 166. The author an eye-wit- 
ness of it, and visited the infected, 167. Progress of, 167. 
Remarkable instance of a village in the neighbourhood of 
Mogador being free from the epidemy thirty-four days 
after it appeared at Mogador, although the communica- 
tion was open between the two places, 168. Haha, de- 
struction in, by the plague, 169. Peculiarities of, 169. De- 
struction of the plague in Suse, 169. General depopula- 
tion caused by it, 170. Consequences of, on the sur- 
vivors, 171. Gradations in society overturned by the 
plague, 171. Emigrations from Sahara consequent to the 
plague, 172. Symptoms, various of, 173. Olive oil, ex- 
ternal application of, infallible, supposed origin of, 174. 
Superstitious opinion respecting the plague, 175. Au- 
thor's precaution against, 177. Fear, its effect in com- 
municating the infection, 178. Remedies used, 178. 
How caught, 179. Plague cases of, 180. 



INDEX. 



541 



Plague, avoided, by adhering to the principle of aroiding 
personal contact and inhalation, 189. Olive oil, infallible 
remedy for, 189. 

, 419. Remedy for, 423. 

Plough, primitive, used by the Arabs, 511. 

Pomgranates, 75. 

Policy of the court of Marocco, 211, 212.280. 

adopted by the emperor to secure the allegiance of 

the Berebbers, 306, 

of West Barbary, 320. 

Poculum amicitice, goblet compared to, 232. 

Political economy of the emperor, in not going to war with 

Algiers, 283. 
deception, 309. 314. 

Portugal, sovereign of, his zeal in converting the Africans to 

the Christian doctrine, 443. 
Portuguese penetrated far into West Barbary, 324. 
Portfolio, monthly miscellany, observations on, 464. 
Precision, unfavourable to truth, according to Mungo Park's 

annotator, 446. 

Present to the emperor, etiquette of delivering it, presenta- 
tion to, 89. 
received from the emperor, 98. 

Prince, Muley Teib, conduct of, to Dr. Bell. Satisfied with 

the doctor's medicines, 197. 
Property, agricultural division of, 330. 

Prognosticated prosperity from the prayers of benediction of 
the marabats or fakeers of the sanctuary of Muley Dris 
Zerone. 

Prostration practised at the court of Marocco, 281. 
Protection among the Arabs a sacred duty when claimed, 
343. 

Punishment for murder, 343. 

Pyramidical basis on which is founded the intelligence in 
Jackson's Account of Marocco, &c, 451. 

Q. 

Quarterly journal, of literature, science, and the arts, 

error of, 435. 438. 
Queen Elizabeth, embassy to the emperor of Marocco, 

494. 

R. 

Rabat, arrival at, 110. Town described. Aqueduct. Mau- 
soleum of the Sultan Muhamed at, described. Battery 



542 



I N D E X. 



of, bomb-proof. Bastions. Roman spring at. Old Ro- 
man town of Sheila at, described. Old Roman coins, 
111. Mosques, tower of Hassan, similar to one at Tim- 
buctoo, &c. described, 112. 

Rabat and Salee, abundant countries, 113. 

Religions, of all kinds, tolerated at Timbuctoo, 

Repast, or dinner, sent by the prince Muley Teib, 192. 

Retaliation for murder, an incumbent duty on the indivi- 
duals of a family, 295. 

Revenge of the Shelluhs, described, 152. 

of the Shelluhs for murder rigidly pursued, 291. 

Richardson, incorrect in calling the Arabic guttural letter, 
grain, ghain, 492. 

Richardson's Arabic grammar, some errors in, 351. 

Riches of the Arabs, in what it consists, 247. 

Rivers, in sandy districts, change their courses, 440. 

Robbery, singular mode of, 116. 

Rontgen, African traveller, death of, 425. 

S. 

Santa Cruz, the port of, delivered to the Dutch, 403. 
— , See Agadeer. 

, or Agadeer, the key to Sudan, 268. 

— , invoice from, Timbuctoo to, 345. 

— opened to Dutch commerce by the author, 

436. 

Sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone, 80. 

Saffy, its road for shipping described, 108. Situation and 
description of, 108. 

Sahara, north part described, no water, 4. South part de- 
scribed, 7- Water carried in goat-skins, 5. Sheiks of, in- 
dependent, 

— , Arabs of, prefer sleeping in the open air, 155. , 

Salee, dungeon of, for Christian captives, 114. 

and Rabat, the adjacent country productive, 113. 

Salutations, peculiar character of their, 235. 
Saneet JJrtemma, a dangerous country, 110. 
Sand baths, 279. 

Science and the arts, decay of, among the Arabs, 352. 
Sebu, river, situation of, 438. 

Sejin Messa, etymology of the name, vulgarly called Segil- 

messa, 145. 
Senegambia, 70. 

Serpents, charmers of, described, 430= 

— domestic, of Marocco, 213. 

Servants of the emperor, policy of, 280. 



INDEX. 



543 



Shegar, signification of, and misinterpretation, 441. 
Sheh, the Arabic name for worm-seed, 5. 

, the plant designated, 510. 

Sheila, an old Roman town, 112. 
Shelluh, revenge of, described, 152. 

repast, described. Patriarchal cakes of, 153. Cus- 
toms of, 154. 313. 

■ language, specimen of, 366. 

Shelluhs, revenge and retaliation, 291. 

, their territory described, 327. 

Sheshatva, plains of, 82. Mountains of, strata of oyster- 
shells at the top of, 82. River of, 82. 

Shume el, the hot wind of Sahara so denominated, 5. 

Shoemaker, an honourable trade, 98. 

Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, his letter to the emperor of Ma- 
rocco. 

Sigen Messa, face of that country, 81. 
Silver mines of Elala, 218. 
mine, 331. 

Sixvah, language of, similar to the Shelluh, 370. 

Slavery, state of, in Africa, 219. Cannot be abolished but 

by commerce, 269. 
Slaves, mode of selling them, 95. 

Slave trade, not to be abolished by any naval force however 

formidable, 269. 
South Africa, policy of constructing mitferes there, 339. 

How that colony might be improved in the value of its 

produce, 340. 

■ , colony of, policy and expediency of building 

mitferes there, 339. How to improve that colony, 340. 
Storks, abundance of, at Azamore, 110. 
Style used in addressing the emperor, 383. 
Subterraneous hordes, propensity to, 238. 
Sudan, gum of, 67. 

, trade with, 277. 

company, plan for one, 251. 

, command of the commerce of, how to be obtained, 67. 

produce of, 67. 

Sugar, figurative of friendship, 234. 
Sulphur mines, 331. 

Sultan Muhamed's letter to the European consuls, 394. 
To the governor of Mogodor, 405. 

Soliman's letter to his majesty George III., 395. 

Superstitious tradition, 460. 

Suse t province of, inaccessible to an invading army from 

the north, 76. 
Synonymous words in sound, 362. 



INDEX. 



T. 

Tabia wails, what, 2. Mode of building them. 

Tqfilelt, 1. A rendezvous for caravans ; kassars of ; hire of 
camels from Fas to ; a country of princes, 2. Market 
at, 2. Palace, imperial, magnificent at, 80. Dates 
abundant at, 80. Magnificent plantations and extensive 
forests of, 81. Faith and honour of the natives proverbial ; 
robberies unknown there, 81. 

Talleyrand, his favourite African scheme, 229. 

Talk-tree defined, 510. 

Tangier garrison, salute to the British ambassador on his 

entry there, 127. 
Tas, what it is, 231. 
Tatta, a depot for camels, 248. 
Tendaraman, venomous spider described, 429. 
Tensijl, river of, 108. 

Tildie, repast, Arab, at ; Portuguese tower at, 63. Cook- 
ery of the Arabs at, 64. 

Timbuctoo, situation of, and charge of travelling to, 7. 
City of; river close to it, 8. Population of ; extent of; 
caravanseras of; slaves at, 10. Houses; government, 11. 
Revenue of, 12. Moors pay no duty at, but negroes 
do, 14. Subject to Housa, 14. Army of; subsidies: 
administration of justice at ; punishments, 15. Good 
police of, 16. Insolvent debtors at ; slaves entitled to 
freedom at ; property, succession to and distribution of ; 
rational treatment of slaves at ; wills not written, 18. 
Laws of inheritance ; marriage ; rape ; adultery, 19. 
Trade and articles sold at, 20. Manufactures, 23. Mea- 
sures, 23. Husbandry, 24. Sowing season ; provisions, 25. 
Animals; birds, 26. Fish; prices of various articles, 27. 
Costume, 28. Diversions, 31. Time, measurement of; 
Religion, 32. Diseases, 33. Manners and customs, 34. 
Neighbouring nations, 35. 

• , opportunity of opening a trade with, why de- 
clined, 145. 

— , how likely to be made tributary to Great 

Britain, 249. Circuitous commerce of, explained, 256. 
Direct and eligible route to, through Sahara from the 
shores of the Atlantic Ocean, 257. 

■ — , value of merchandize at, 260. Immense pro- 
fit actually made in, 261. Immense quantities of gold 
to be procured from Sudan, 261. Goods entering the 
city at the gate of the desert pay no duty, 263. Timbuc- 
too coffee, 279. Invoice from, 345. 347. Letter from, 
346. 348 



INDE X. 



54.5 



Timbuctoo, Mungo Park at, 319. 

, warehouses of, contain the manufactures of India 

and Europe, 427. Communication with, plan for open- 
ing, 428. 

— — — , intelligence respecting, whence derived, 436. 

— -, cotton manufacture, made in the city of, inter- 
woven with silk, of a chequered pattern, deposited in the 
British Museum, 437. Situation of, in respect to the 
Neel el abeed, 439. Under the sovereignty of a negro 
prince, 441. Fish at, resembling salmon, 469. 

-, first expedition to and conquest of, 519. 

, second expedition to, 521. 

, third expedition to, 523. 

Titl-es of emperor, 382. 

Togreda, ceremony of, how performed, 231. 

Tomie, or Sebah Biure, port of; the author visits it by the 

prince's request, 138. Arab dance and festivity in the 

neighbourhood of, 141. Music of, 140. 
Trade with Sudan, 277. 

Travellers, solitary or scientific, little expectations from, 
258. 

Travelling in Barbary, 293. 

Treaties with Muhamedan princes, 283. 

Troglodyte, 319. 

U. 

Uffran, a depot for camels, 248. 

Uly and Ualv, material difference between these two terms, 
350. 

Unity among Christians a necessary prelude to the conver- 
sion of Africa. The several sects of Christians should 
unite, instead of being divided, as an expedient measure 
necessary to precede the conversion of Africa, 129- 

Union of waters between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 447- 

V. 

Vaccination, intelligence transmitted from West Barbary in- 
strumental in the propagation of, 337- 23,134 lives 
saved by vaccination, 338. 

Vasco de Gama's observations on intercourse with Africa, 
258. 

Vincent, Lord St. his message to the Emperor of Maroeeo. 
459. 

lines, the grapes of which are of an extraordinary size. 74. 



546 



INDEX. 



W. 

Water communication between Timbuctoo and Cairo, 443. 

This opinion is confirmed by Mr. Hornmann, 444. 
communication between Cairo and Timbuctoo, the 

opinion respecting, receives additional confirmation, 517* 

melons at Salee and Rabat peculiarly sweet 5 114. 

carried through the Sahara in goat's skins. 

Wah el, what, 6. 

Wahs of Sahara, how supplied with fish, 257. Western 

oasis, 280. 
Wangara, jewel from, 103. 

Wassenah, or Massenah, conjecture why not known at 

Ashantee, 491. 
Wed el fees, river of, 82. 
Whedinoon, a depot for camels. 
Wheat, superior at Marocco, 95. 

, a superior kind or quality, 125. 

Wild myrtle grows in the Sahara, 6. 
Wine Company recommended, 212. 

'Woled Aisah, encampment of Arabs. Produce of that 

country, 109. 
Wool, exportation of, granted by the emperor. 
Woladia el, an eligible place for a naval depot, 108. 
Woolja, notWoolga, 109. 

Woled Abbusebah, a whole clan of Arabs, banished from the 
plains near Marocco, and plundered, killed or dispersed. 
318. 

Woolo, king of Timbuctoo, 484. 
Wormseed, 74. 

Wrecked ships, 277. How treated, 278. Wrecked sailors. 
279. 

Wyh, Sir Pieter, Swedish consul, his courier sent to the 
author, 127. 



Y. 

Yezzid Muley, gives the port of Santa Cruz to the Dutch. 
436. 

— , emperor of Marocco, compared to his ma- 
jesty George the Fourth, 287. His letter to the Dutch 
consul, 402. His letter to the governor of Mogador, 
giving to the Dutch the port of Santa Cruz, 402. 



INDEX. 



547 



Z. 

Zealand, New, customs of, compared to those of the Jews, 
236. 

Zeal of Mohamedans not sufficient to convert the negro na- 
tions of Africa, 442. 
Zeef, what it is, 231. 

Zemurh ait's, or Zemurhites, a kabyl of Berebbers, 115. 
Zion ait's, or Zianites, a tribe, or kabyl of Berebbers, 124. 
Ziltanait, or Ziltanites, a tribe of Berebbers, 124. 
Zimurh shelluh, Berebbers of, their character, 284. 



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